Protection from a dog in case of an attack means. Protection from an aggressive dog, actions at the time of attack by an angry and aggressive dog. How dogs should be walked

...The fifth shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty was Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, nicknamed "Inukubo", the dog shogun. Inukubo had no heirs - his only son died at a young age and the Buddhist monk explained this by saying that the shogun had harmed a dog in one of his past lives. Since then, the weak-minded samurai has “turned” to protecting animals. A series of animal welfare laws gave mongrels significantly more rights than humans had. For example, if a pack of dogs destroys crops in a rice field, then the peasants first had to ritually swear that not a single dog would be harmed, then, with caresses and persuasion, ask the pack to leave the field, without shouting, so that the dogs would not have an attack. If this happens, the dog is buried in the presence of special officials who record everything.

The population found it funny until the village population who dared to protect their crops was executed.
A special decree created a register of stray dogs, which was followed by the construction of a giant kennel for 50,000 animals, in which the dogs received three meals a day, amounting to 1.5 times the peasant’s ration.

When meeting a dog on the street, one had to address it as “Mistress Dog,” otherwise the disrespectful passerby would be punished with canes. There was also a case of execution of a peasant who caught a fish incorrectly (it was painful) and wandering samurai were sent into exile for eating a pigeon.

The power of the shogunate almost fell as a result of such laws. After Tsunayoshi's death, all stupid laws were abolished...

Self-defense against dogs is a harsh reality.

Something similar is happening now in Russia. Through the efforts of inadequate people, stray dogs have been turned into saints, because “stray and stray animals are an integral part of the urban ecological environment and are protected by government authorities.” This means that there is no more catching and “number regulation”; now dogs are caught, sterilized and released outside into their natural habitat. The only thing that is not taken into account is that rabies is contagious for dogs regardless of the presence of genitals, and they attack passers-by, frankly speaking, not at all for rape.

It's not just the authorities who protect dogs. Compassionate grandmothers feed the dogs, champions of justice sue those who dared to fight off the attacking dog, remembering Art. 245 of the Criminal Code “On cruelty to animals... for sadistic, hooligan or selfish purposes.”

What's the result?

  • In 2004, in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, a homeless man was eaten by a pack. They attacked, mauled and ate. The city has also recorded attacks on children on the grounds of schools and kindergartens.
  • In the same year, a pack of 30 cannibal dogs, led by a half-wolf, appeared in the north of Moscow. Law enforcement agencies began searching for her only when several people were eaten.
  • In the village of Gorodishche, Volgograd Region, it got to the point where the dogs almost disrupted the elections. Postmen refused to work, pensioners refused to go out. Dogs simply feed on people.
  • In Ulan-Ude last year, 1,500 people sought help for bites; in the Arkhangelsk region, 3,000 people.
  • In the Ivanovo region, a pit bull killed its owner.
  • In Kamchatka, two dogs ate an 11-year-old girl.
  • In Krasnoyarsk, a dog killed a 2-year-old girl.
  • In the Ryazan region, a Staffordshire terrier bit the head of a 3-year-old girl.
  • In the Sverdlovsk region, a shepherd dog attacked an electric train driver while the train was moving(!)
  • In Moscow, according to environmentalists, there have been so many stray dogs in recent years that they have destroyed the entire fauna. In Losiny Ostrov Park, almost all the roe deer, elk and deer have been eaten. In Serebryany Bor, populations of hedgehogs, hares and frogs have been destroyed.
  • The state does not intend to deal with the problem, so in self-defense from dogs you can only rely on yourself.

According to the latest data, at the beginning of 2009 in Moscow alone there were more than 20 thousand stray dogs roaming the streets. Many people are prone to aggression. Under these conditions, self-defense from dogs in a modern city is a very urgent and sometimes vital task. You have to learn specific self-defense techniques.

How to avoid dog attacks?

  1. Try to avoid ports, industrial areas and wastelands. Often attacks occur when a person, without knowing it, enters the territory “assigned” to a pack of dogs.
  2. Don't trust unfamiliar dogs.
  3. A rabid dog almost always attacks for no reason. The rabies virus causes sudden mood swings - a dog can approach, wagging its tail, and then suddenly grab the throat. A dog's tail wagging is not a sign of its friendly mood towards you, but only an indicator of the degree of its excitement. The higher the tail, the more “wound up” the dog is, and you will find out in the very near future what feelings it has towards you.
  4. Be carefull. The cyclist is a favorite target of both domestic and wild dogs. Especially in spring and autumn, when dogs' hormones are in full swing. A dozen males are rushing after a bitch in heat, and each of them strives to demonstrate his brave prowess, attacking everything that moves. It is not recommended to run from the pack or stand in its path.
  5. A bitch with puppies is doubly dangerous. When you see her, it is better to leave immediately, with a calm step. Don't run!

Self-defense against dogs

A knife is absolutely ineffective if you don't know how to wield it. A dog is a resourceful and fast animal, its pain threshold is much higher than that of a person, so it will continue to attack even after many minor wounds, and the average person is unlikely to be able to inflict a serious wound or an injection to a painful point without the skill. A knife fight against a dog is difficult, and even if you manage to get the dog with a knife, it is usually only after several painful bites.
I still dare to offer some tips for people familiar with the technique of wielding a knife for self-defense. Simple cuts will not be able to stop the dog; the technique of fighting with a knife against a dog has its own specifics: strong, quick blows should be applied to the neck and belly. It is advisable to hit the lateral surfaces of the neck - the carotid artery, this will lead to a quick “switching off” of the animal. If it is possible to stab into the front surface of the neck, the respiratory tract will be affected. Trying to stab a dog in the back of the neck can result in the blade getting stuck in the cervical vertebrae and losing the knife. Another technique with a knife is injections into the chest; the knife must be positioned with the blade vertically, perpendicular to the surface of the earth, making it easier for it to penetrate the ribs and intersect the main blood vessels and the heart. When removing a knife from a wound, rotate the blade around its axis to enhance the damaging effect. It is better to remove the knife with a counter push to the chest with your palm or foot, as if pushing the animal away from you, pulling it off the blade.

Self-defense against a dog grabbing your arm or leg

Do not rush to tear the limb out of the mouth (this is fraught with even greater trauma to already damaged tissues), but grab the mouth with your free hand, pressing the dog to you, going to “bite”. By forcefully pressing your hand or foot into the animal’s mouth “to break” the jaw, you block its breathing, since the wide tongue moves back from the oral cavity into the pharynx and interferes with breathing. Within a few seconds the dog will begin to try to escape, and then several options are possible.

  • Option 1. You didn’t let go and managed to hold it for more than 50 seconds. You will most likely suffocate the animal.
  • Option 2. The dog escaped. Now she will never attack you again, because in her mind you are DANGEROUS. Maximum - barks at a distance.
  • Option 3. Put your left hand forward, if you have time, wrap something around it. When the dog grabs the forearm, place your right hand on the back of its head, press it to you, push your left hand as deep as possible into its mouth and, pressing mainly on the upper jaw, pull it up and to the right. After the neck has cracked, carefully lower the dog's corpse to the ground and slowly remove your hand from the mouth to prevent further damage to the muscles and skin. Check yourself for venous and arterial bleeding. Contact your doctor immediately.

When defending against dog attacks, you can use legal weapons. A traumatic gun does not give any results at all, it only makes the dog even angrier. It can only work if you shoot a wasp in the head at point-blank range, but dogs do not stand still during an attack, and there are often more individuals in a flock than there are cartridges in the magazine. A stun gun is also not the best self-defense weapon. The stun guns allowed in Russia cannot even stop a field mouse.

The “Strike” device is unreliable; a stream of pepper may not hit the dog, so aerosol sprays are much better.

A gas spray is the most effective and most humane means of self-defense. The spray must be pepper spray (OC, MPC); sprays like “Cheryomukha” (CS, CN) are ineffective against dogs. The spray can should be directed towards the pack and release a large cloud of substance, then the dogs will instantly lose all interest in you. The most effective means of self-defense is the PA-2 pepper spray gun.

The pistol is a plastic case in the form factor of a pistol, into which a cylinder with pepper mixture is inserted. The device is equipped with a good sprayer and produces a powerful, wide stream of aerosol. Unlike a spray can, it allows you to conduct “targeted fire” with a range of up to 2.5 meters.

My own PA-2 is mounted on the frame of a bicycle, it is very helpful in protecting against dog attacks, and allows you to shoot back from packs without even slowing down. The dogs freeze and begin to whine and rub their muzzles on the asphalt.

The asking price is 600 rubles, 150 for spare cartridges.

Attention! If you carelessly killed a dog that attacked you, then you do not need to cut off its head and take it to the emergency room for analysis! Breaking a skull with a stone and getting a piece of the brain - too! It’s been a hundred years since we learned to detect rabies using a blood test (not a dog’s, but yours).

What to do if you are bitten by a dog?

  1. Immediately wash the wound (site of injury) - intensively, for 10 minutes, with soap (it washes away the animal’s saliva).
  2. Go to the nearest emergency room immediately. The success of rabies prevention highly depends on how quickly you seek help.
  3. Have the following information ready:
  • Type and description of the animal (including its appearance and behavior).
  • Was the animal wearing a collar or leash?
  • Familiar or unfamiliar animal?
  • The circumstances under which the bite took place.
  • In what direction did the animal run?

Which bites are the most dangerous?

The farther the bite site is from the brain, the greater the chance of preventing rabies, the longer the incubation period of the infection, which is nothing more than the time it takes for the virus to “travel” from the bite site, along the nerves, to the brain. More dangerous are bites accompanied by bleeding and abrasions (if abrasions or scratches remain). The most dangerous are multiple bites to the head and neck area. Less dangerous are injuries such as salivation (licking) of undamaged skin by sick animals.
How can you prevent rabies? Only with the help of vaccines and immunoglobulins.

Vaccination is “40 injections in the stomach”?

No. This is a hopelessly outdated stereotype. Such vaccines no longer exist. Modern vaccines are administered only 5 or 6 times, some more often, but still not 40 times and not in the stomach. However, the domestic CAV vaccine is indeed recommended to be injected into the subcutaneous tissue of the abdomen.

I

1. Strays.

A pre-emptive cloud of pepper from a can + a targeted strike with it.

Flare gun for scaring.

Or any scarecrow, noise, scream.

Rebound at the last second.

Flail, cane, whip, belt.

A long (or at least short) knife for close combat (eyes and throat).

The cyclist annoys them only while he is riding.

2. Rabid. See point 1.

3. Fighting type Rottweiler. Avoid. The fight is useless.

4. Specially trained fighters. The likelihood of meeting on the street or in nature is low. The fight is completely useless.

II

Specialist:

“Just from the name of the topic, I fell under the table, because... I used to work with my service dogs. A knife is completely non-functional when fighting a dog.

The only method of defense with a knife that comes to my mind is the one that was used completely instinctively and correctly Fet , overwhelm, clamp, then hit.

More it is advisable to first shove something down her throat, You can use your own hand, wrapped in a jacket.

But this is only possible for a single dog and only as a last resort, and for a pack, even if it is not prepared (like a “dog wedding”), this will not work while you are doing it alone, the rest will tear you apart. During the tsarist regime, even special revolvers were produced for protection against dogs.

What can help:

1. confidence that you are stronger (believe me, they feel it), assertiveness “I’ll tear you apart, who are you barking at, mongrel,”

2. a length (stick, cell phone on a cord, flail, whip, whip, belt, etc.) weight does not play a significant role - the dog doesn’t know it (weight) either and just stays away.

Heavy drums can play a bad role. Due to the large inertial force, it is difficult to control and requires significant effort and time to swing again, and the dogs somehow feel this,

3. Sharp noise (gunshot, impacts on a reverberating surface, broken glass). Firecrackers are not an option. A lady lives in the yard with a dog, which reacts to firecrackers with aggression and attacks, restrained by a leash.

4. Short-barreled guns, traumatic guns, gas guns, etc. - a good thing only for mongrels; it will be difficult to stop a service dog, she may have a developed sense of duty and will try to bite even in a crippled state,

5. If possible, provide yourself with protection from behind (wall, entrance, partner).

*

We went on an outing (we planned for 3 days, but it turned out to be 1 night). So we were attacked by a pack of feral dogs (runaway village dogs), furious, creepy!!!

They fought back with whatever they could: with sapper blades, axes, tent pegs, tried to throw knives (by the way, there were 2 guns, but they only lasted about 5 seconds, because there was no time to reload)...

Nothing helped (they really tried to eat us), our legs buckled from fear and panic (no one could climb the trees).

An hour and a half later, two men with guns came running in response to the noise (luckily one of the boys figured out to turn on the manual siren!)

So if it weren't for our uniform (we all had high-top Canadian boots and Kevlar gloves), then...

I fully agree that a knife is completely non-functional when fighting a dog...

I also worked with dogs, I kept dogs myself, and I will say one thing - a man is stronger than a dog, definitely.

The average healthy man can handle a dog with his bare hands without special training. A dog is not a lynx with claws, a dog only has teeth and the ability to move quickly.

Knock a dog down (even just by falling on it and pinning it to the ground with your weight) and you have practically won, the dog is only strong on four legs. You may need stitches, but for men, scars are just decoration.

if there are several dogs, then the sound of an upward shot brings them to their senses

I checked it many times (I used regular BLUEF with reinforced capsules)

(note: may not work against angry or fighting ones)

Stray dogs usually attack when you are trespassing. their flock's habitat

It is possible for stray dogs to attack a person when he is carrying food; in this case the dogs' goal is simply get food for yourself.

The classic case of a dog attack is when it is infected with a virus rabies.

If a mad fox or wolf approaching people is very easy to recognize ( a normal fox or wolf will never approach people), then identifying a mad dog is often difficult: the animal may approach people, trying to flirt with them, and at first you may not notice anything unusual in its actions; everything will become clear only when the person is bitten.

Apparently dogs perceive moving cyclist as a sporting goal; Usually, as soon as a person slows down and stops, the dog stops the attack. But only him again will try to move away as the dog resumes its attack.

Strays dogs are traditionally considered much more less aggressive and dangerous than fighting ones, and are usually considered more as potential carriers rabies.

But at the same time, in addition to the possibility of contracting a deadly disease, a lot of serious troubles can also be expected from them.

Flocks pose a particular danger stray dogs. In 2004, Muscovites were shocked by the news of a pack of stray cannibal dogs appearing in an industrial area in the north of the city.

Dog protection products

The simplest and at the same time very effective is a gas canister filled with substances OC (hot pepper extract) or MPC.

Substances CS and CN have no effect on dogs at all and are generally rather weak, so they should not be used. A gas cartridge filled with a mixture of CS and MPC substances is an effective means of protection against dogs, but its damaging effect is determined by the MPC content.

Currently the best choice for dog protection- aerosol cans "Weapons of the Proletariat" and "The Supreme Measure"; with a lower concentration of the active substance, but a larger volume, “Higher Measure” may be even more preferable.

It can be stated with fairly great confidence that for successful defeat of the dog irritant aerosol smaller amounts of chemical agent are required than in the case of using a spray can against man; I would associate this with a slightly different mechanism of action of the irritant on the dog’s sense organs.

Usually, after using pepper spray, the dog tucks its tail and cowardly runs away to the side with a pitiful look, no longer showing any signs of aggression. Even for a large wolfhound, a couple of not very intense sprays are enough from a good spray can from a distance of 1 - 1.5 m.

Based on personal experience, I can say that a mongrel mongrel usually requires larger quantities of aerosol to neutralize than a purebred larger dog.

There are known cases of successful use of the “UDAR” device against dogs, equipped with OS- and MPK-containing BAMs.

However, "UDAR" is not particularly reliable, and the quality of its cartridges leaves much to be desired, so spray can will more efficient.

Gas pistol effective only when charged pepper cartridges (the most common are gas cartridges filled with CS).

IN some In some cases, shooting from a gas pistol or revolver can be effective. single cartridges that scare away dogs, first of all - stray. Shooting from gas weapons is much more promising signal lights cartridges.

Pocket Rocket Launcher type "Hunter Signal" showed itself to be very a good way to scare away packs of stray dogs; a rocket launched into their gathering produces a powerful psychological effect. In the event of a serious threat, a flare can be used to fry the most aggressive member of the pack.

Barrelless weapon cannot be called a good means of protection from an attacking dog. To stop an angry dog a fairly large rubber bullet with considerable initial energy (at least 85 J) should hit him straight to the head. However, the possibility of targeted shooting from a traumatic gun is very limited, so you can’t really count on such a hit. Shooting from a traumatic weapon at the body of a large aggressive dog may not give the desired results, but only anger her even more.

E stun gun- means exclusively close contact combat and thing, not very effective acting even on dogs, so in case of defense using this remedy you you risk being bitten perhaps even more than when using a knife. However, an electroshock device is very useful tool for tearing a dog tightly clinging to you.

If you don’t have any self-defense weapons with you, you’ll have to fight off the dog with your feet. Most effective strong sharp blows to the nose or lower jaw.

Defense tactics

Optimal defense tactics - do not let the animal get close to you, in minimizing the likelihood of a possible bite, while simultaneously performing defensive actions.

This tactic is consistent with the use of remote means of self-defense (gas cans, gas pistols, aerosol sprays, barrelless weapons, flare guns and firearms). The main thing is to grab a self-defense weapon in time and use it successfully.

In cases of defense against dogs, as opposed to cases of self-defense against people, aerosol means should apply with considerable anticipation, in advance creating a cloud of irritant in the direction the dog is moving.

Although the effectiveness of the impact of an aerosol cloud is noticeably lower than that of a directed aerosol jet, one entry of a dog into a cloud of irritant is often enough to lose all interest in you.

When using a barrelless traumatic weapon, if the attacking dog poses a particular danger to your health or life, then perhaps the only correct way out is headshot.

Shot with a rubber bullet only if you hit your head capable of stopping a dangerous fighting or service breed dog.

But hitting the head of a moving dog with a barrelless weapon is not such an easy thing, so it makes sense to fire the first shot at the animal’s body, and then, after finding a second or two due to its some confusion, shoot directly at the head.

Special measures to prevent dog attacks

People often have questions about what to do if A dangerous dog has settled in the house next door posing a threat to the residents of the house and whose owners often do not follow the rules for safe walking of the animal?

Don't wait for this dog to bite someone. Naturally, you need to start with negotiations with owners animal and require them to comply with the conditions for safe walking of the dog.

But often such conversations do not end productively. In this case, you must notify district police officer a policeman (by contacting him with an appropriate official statement) and the house management.

Once the authorities are informed that there is a threat posed by the dog or its owners, residents will have a free hand to ensure that in the event of a dog attack, their kill without fear of administrative liability.

Activities such as placing poisoned bait under the door of an apartment where a dog lives can be quite effective, but in my opinion such actions are the lot of vile and vile people; Moreover, we must not forget that other animals and even children can get poisoned.

It is an indisputable fact that a dog is a man’s friend, but sometimes it happens that from a friend it turns into an enemy. Everyone needs to know how to recognize this moment and what means of protection against dogs exist, because such situations are unpredictable, and once in it, a person’s reaction should be lightning fast.

Attacking dogs

Dogs that can attack can be divided into two categories: stray dogs and pets.

Among domestic breeds, service and fighting dogs are especially dangerous in this regard. The safest are decorative breeds and hunting dogs.

Stray dogs, as a rule, attack in packs of five or more individuals, but cases of a single attack are also possible. Among stray dogs there are various breeds and their mixtures, as well as yard mongrels.

Important! The most dangerous, without exaggeration, are dogs infected with rabies, regardless of whether the animal is accustomed to indoor conditions or outdoors. Since no person can be sure that he will not have to meet an infected animal, everyone needs to have an idea about what means of protection against dogs can be used.

Types of dogs

Taking into account their body features, animals can be divided into three categories:

  • Heavy. This type includes St. Bernards, Great Danes, black terriers, and Rottweilers.
  • Average. This type of dog is represented by the following breeds: East European and German Shepherds, Doberman Pinschers, Laikas and Giant Schnauzers.
  • Lungs. This type is represented by pit bull terriers, Airedale terriers, and boxers.

Important! Depending on the specific type, the attacking animal differs in strength and attack tactics.

Why and in what cases do dog attacks occur?

There are a number of reasons that provoke dogs to attack:

  • A person can, without even knowing it, invade the territory that the dog protects and considers his own. This could be the apartment where he lives, a nearby landing, or a yard where the dog often walks.
  • Unfortunately, there are situations when the owner sets his wrestling dogs against other people's pets and their owners and, thus, has fun.
  • A dog may attack if it considers a person’s gestures or body movements to be threatening to itself. Thus, runners and drunk people are at risk.
  • A dog, guarding its owner, can attack a person who threatens him or makes sudden movements in his direction.

In each case, the means of protection against dogs may be different.

Important! Rabies turns an animal, whether domestic or stray, into a very aggressive creature that can attack anything that moves without any reason.

Types of animal attacks

An aggressive dog, depending on the type of attack, acts as follows:

  • Attack from the front. With such an attack, all dogs behave, by and large, the same. They try to dodge the person's defensive blows and try to get to the side and slightly behind him. When the animal succeeds, it tends to bite the leg, arm, or object with which the victim is defending itself.
  • Attack from behind. This type of animal attack is typical when the victim runs away. In such an attack, different types of dogs act differently:
    1. Heavy type dogs, having caught up with the victim, sink their teeth into her leg or torso and knock her to the ground;
    2. Medium-type dogs do not knock down their prey, but knock them down. To do this, they, having reached the person running close, jump on him and strike him with their whole body in the lower back. Also, such dogs can hit their heads under the knees.
    3. Light-type dogs easily jump onto the victim’s back and, grabbing the neck or shoulder with their teeth, hang on it.

Types of bites

Any aggressive dog will try to use its teeth, thus quickly incapacitating the enemy and forcing him to stop any type of resistance. The bite can be divided into three stages:

  • Grab. First stage of the bite. The strength and damage of subsequent stages depends on its depth.
  • Compression. The strength of this stage of the bite depends not only on the depth of the grip, but also on the size of the captured body area and the strength of the jaws of the attacking animal.
  • Pacing is the most dangerous action a dog can take. After all, it is at this stage of the bite that the ligaments and muscles are injured. It occurs 0.5-1 second after the grip.

How should you behave when confronted with an aggressive dog?

To be able to use, if necessary, dog repellents or other methods of protection against them, adopt the following rules of conduct:

  • Train yourself not to be afraid of even the most terrible and scary-looking dogs. Animals always feel fear and are not afraid to attack such people. Learn to perceive an aggressive dog not as an animal, but as a small person. Looking at the dog from this angle, you can immediately see that his capabilities are much less than yours.
  • Maintain clarity, speed and logical thinking, because this is the key to success in any extreme situations. Even if you fail to avoid an animal bite, you must overcome the pain and think clearly.
  • You should not try to run away from the dog. Under no circumstances turn your back to her or let her come from behind or from the side. If there is an object nearby that will help you cover your back, use it to secure your rear. You can use a tree, wall, car, fence for these purposes.
  • Dogs that have not been trained become insecure and less aggressive if they move away from the protected area or lose sight of their owner. Therefore, you should try to retreat from the dog’s territory by turning the corner of the house or entering the entrance.
  • Dogs do not like and are afraid of sudden movements, loud sounds, when something is thrown at them. You can try to bare your teeth and growl at the dog. No matter how funny it may look from the outside, remember that you are saving yourself. If you are going to yell at her, then it is best to lower your voice and do it as close as possible to an animal growl.
  • Use all the items you can get your hands on to protect yourself from dogs. Try to use them to keep the dog at a distance, jam the dog's mouth, and strike it.
  • If an animal grabs your hand with its teeth, do not try to pull it out of its mouth. This way you will only cause yourself a lot of damage. To avoid this situation, you should point your forearm down and towards the animal’s neck. This action will give you a few seconds, which you can spend on kicking the attacking animal.
  • It is worth remembering the most vulnerable places on a dog’s body. A strong blow to the tip of the nose can kill even the largest dog. The bridge of the nose, the transition point from the muzzle to the forehead, the middle of the back, the base of the skull, the stomach and the solar plexus are also the dog’s weak points. A blow delivered to these places may cause the dog to refuse to attack.
  • As for actions that entail breaking paws, ribs, tail, ears, as well as blows to the sides, they will only bring pain to the dog, but will not force him to stop attacking.
  • Follow the dog's gaze - it is always directed at the place where the dog is going to grab his teeth. Therefore, even at the moment of jumping, you can knock him down. Aim for the shoulder blade, neck or chest area. Your movements should be fast and strong.

Important! Never provoke a dog to attack, do not scream or make sudden movements towards its owner. You should not pet other people's dogs or give them commands. Animals do not understand words, but they are well versed in intonation. Particular caution should be exercised around muzzled dogs and those led on short leashes, because all these measures are taken, as a rule, for good reason.

To protect against four-legged aggressors, you can use all the same means that are suitable for protection against people with criminal intentions:

  • A gas spray with MPC or OS substances is sufficient - an effective means of protection against dogs. Substances such as CS and CN have absolutely no effect on dogs, so you should not try to stop a dog attack with such sprays.
  • A gas pistol with pepper cartridges will be an excellent means of protection against four-legged enemies. Firing blanks or signal light cartridges from a revolver or gas pistol is also an effective means of repelling dogs.

Important! A gun without a barrel will not help you save yourself from a dog attack, but will only make it angrier. Therefore, if you happen to have a traumatic weapon with you at the time of the attack, you should not use it unless you are sure that you can hit the aggressor directly in the head.

  • If you are good with a knife, it will be an excellent means of defense against dogs. But you should remember that you can only injure an animal through close contact with it, so the likelihood of injury to the defender is also high.
  • The pocket-type flare gun has proven itself to be a fairly effective means of repelling dogs. By launching a rocket towards a roaming flock, you will have a strong psychological effect on it.
  • A stun gun, like a knife, is only effective in close contact with the dog.
  • Ultrasonic dog repellers are a new high-tech product that, thanks to waves of a certain frequency, scares dogs away within a certain radius. Stationary repellers can cover an area of ​​up to 200 sq.m., but they are bulky and inconvenient to carry. Portable repellers are small in size, but their range of action reaches a maximum of 7 m.

Important! You should know that an ultrasonic repeller does not work on dogs infected with rabies, as well as trained wrestling breeds and deaf or hard of hearing dogs.

Mechanism of action in case of a dog bite

If you are injured in the form of bites in a skirmish with an animal, you should follow these procedures sequentially:

  1. Wash the bite area with clean water and soap and, if possible, treat with a disinfectant.
  2. Apply a bandage to the bite site.
  3. Seek help from a hospital or, in case of serious injuries, call an ambulance.

Important! If you have received a bite from a pet, you should definitely ask its owner for a veterinary record that lists the vaccinations given.

If you are bitten by a stray dog ​​in the area where you live, it is advisable to observe the dog from a distance for the next week so that it does not disappear anywhere and does not show further signs of rabies infection. Otherwise, you should immediately get preventive vaccinations against this life-threatening disease. If the dog has disappeared, this procedure is also mandatory.

Homemade dog repellents

There are situations when a dog or a pack needs to be scared away not from a person, but from a flower bed, garden or vegetable garden. In such cases, the following means are used.

Medical alcohol

Isopropyl alcohol is a harmless but effective way to keep dogs away from the area. Dogs cannot stand the smell of alcohol, so owners of beds and gardens soak swabs in medical alcohol and leave them on the property.

Hot peppers

This remedy can cause acute irritation of the mucous membranes and respiratory tract in dogs, so dogs carefully avoid places where pepper is present. By sprinkling the powder on the areas, you will protect them from four-legged animals.

Citrus

The smell of these fruits also irritates dogs. By wiping your furniture with juice, you will protect it from sharp teeth.

Vinegar

This is another substance whose smell cannot be tolerated by man's four-legged friends. Swabs soaked in vinegar and left on the rock will keep them away from the area.

Important! Do not water the soil with vinegar, as this may negatively affect the roots of the plants.

Ammonia

The smell of ammonia irritates not only dogs, but also people, so it should only be used outdoors to repel animals.

A dog is man's friend. We have known this thesis since childhood. However, what happens to those dogs who are suddenly betrayed by their human friend and put out on the street? They gather in packs and try to survive by all means available to them. To achieve this, nature has endowed them with powerful jaws and strong paws. An embittered, starved animal is capable of many things, including murder.

To protect himself from a wild pack of street dogs, people have come up with a variety of means of protection - stun guns, ultrasonic repellers and gas sprays. Which ones are the most effective? Let's try to figure it out.

Stun gun is a melee weapon. Of course, the exception is the police “taser”, which shoots electrodes over long distances, but it is not available to civilians. To use a regular stun gun on a dog attack, you must be in direct contact with the dog. The current passed through the dog's body causes pain but nothing more. If the dog is aggressive and attacks without being afraid of the loud discharges of the stun gun, then the pain will not stop it either.

Ultrasonic repeller emits a signal of a certain frequency, audible only to dogs. It affects the animal's nervous system, causing discomfort, anxiety and pain. Perhaps this means of protection is the most humane. The animal will most likely simply run away from you. However, there is a possibility of even greater aggression in your direction.

The most optimal, in our opinion, means of protection against dogs is gas canister with pepper gas (OS - oleresin capsicum - hot pepper extract). It can be used at a sufficient distance from the dog. Irritation of the animal's eyes and mouth caused by the gas will disorient the dog and give you time to escape the attack. You need to aim the gas canister at the dog's nose - this is its most sensitive area.

In any case, remember that your goal is defense, not attack. Having avoided the threat, you should not continue to use self-defense on the animal. Just leave the dangerous place as quickly as possible.

A dog is a weapon. With the owner or on her own. How to protect yourself in case of a dog attack, pain points, methods of defense. behavior program when encountering an aggressive dog. How to kill a dog. Various types of legal weapons. From the series of articles "School of Survival". This can be useful not only in a fight with a dog...

Stray dogs and us

Unfortunately, recently the “pendulum of relations” between humans and animals, which are called “dogs” in our country, has been in the “dog” position. Those. For now, the prevailing opinion is that “you couldn’t touch the dog.” None and under no circumstances. Let it be a breeding ground for infection, susceptible to rabies, breed uncontrollably and extremely dangerous, etc. - to exterminate them and generally take any measures against them is “inhumane”, “inhumane” and all that.

And this despite the fact that meat processing plants (and therefore slaughterhouses) are working at full capacity and new ones are being built (no one spares cows and pigs, moreover, their meat is fed to dogs), despite the fact that the number of stray dogs, potential and real sources of infection are increasing at an alarming rate, despite the fact that the number of people bitten is thousands of people, including those bitten to death, despite the fact that huge amounts of money are spent on the “cleanup struggle” (and actually stolen).

Yes... M. Bulgakov really scared us with his Sharikov, who worked in the “cleaning department”, and directly developed an innate reflex of hatred towards those who are engaged in catching stray animals and strive to protect us from infections and attacks by rabid and semi-rabid dogs. If the epidemiologist is almost a hero, then the person who clears the city of entire colonies of these microbes and their carriers (and rabies, by the way, is incurable and is always 100% fatal) is a “scoundrel”, “flayer”, etc. Obviously, Something extraordinary must happen, for example, stray dogs will bite Luzhkov or his many children, or some other major official. Then the brains of the “defenders of stray animals” will quickly be put in place by the appropriate directive, the pendulum will swing in the other direction, and citizens will receive several years of respite from this half-mad stray pack.

The newest “invention” of a humane method of control - through sterilization, does not give any results (except for the opportunity to launder money - go check whether this male is sterilized or not). The dog is also hungry, just as aggressive, can also become infected with rabies, and can also attack a person. Isn’t it easier to just give her an injection and she will soon fall asleep forever and without pain, seeing her happy dog ​​dreams? It will also cost less. Arguments that stray dogs regulate the rat population by eating a certain amount of them are simply ridiculous. Over the past year, according to the SES, the number of rats has increased three (!) times. Thank you, crazy, compassionate old ladies, for our happy doggy share. They stopped catching us, but we still won’t catch rats. You have to chase them. And in the garbage dumps, the contents of which are removed not according to circumstances, as containers are filled, but according to His Majesty’s Schedule, given to us by God and signed by Himself (and therefore unchanged for centuries), there is enough food for everyone. Both for us and for the rats. We survived the famine, but somehow we will survive the abundance...

But until this happens (and it can only happen by accident), citizens are forced to defend themselves using improvised methods. Below I will try to outline some developments in this area and my thoughts.

Options

Whether you want it or not, one way or another, you come into contact with dogs. Stray dogs, unless they are well-fed in your yard, pose a danger in two ways. When they are mad and rush at everything that moves, and when they gather in packs of more than a dozen dogs with a strong leader at their head. Fortunately, these phenomena are quite public and do not last long. Whether good or bad, sooner or later, both will be destroyed or scattered. But, unfortunately, these are the most dangerous cases. Even a single bite from a rabid dog or an attack by a pack of dogs is a very likely opportunity to quickly and painfully end your life either in a clinic or directly at the scene of the attack.

"Familiar" dogs. These are the dogs of your neighbors in the house, the entrance. Those. those that you encounter quite regularly in the courtyard and even in the elevator.

"Unfamiliar" dogs. Those dogs that you encounter while walking in the park, jogging, and other situations. Perhaps this is the first and last time you see them.

I introduced this division because it provides for different models of your behavior.

Dogs are pack animals, with a clear hierarchical structure of the pack. Leader and subordinates. Any disobedience is punished quickly and severely, sometimes by death. Therefore, in relationships with dogs, you should rely on the psychology of dogs - she always wants to take the place of leader if there is even the slightest chance of doing so. That's nature.
This leads to the following conclusions:

  • Never ingratiate yourself with a dog, trying to buy its favor with affection. Don't believe this nonsense from trainers about "loving animals." You can force an animal to do something that it has not done for the next 5 million years either through fear of punishment if you don’t do it, or through the desire to get food (i.e., hunger). Some exceptions are dolphins, but there everything is different. If you curry favor with a dog (even your own), it will immediately understand that it is the Master. And it will be almost impossible to convince her otherwise.
  • If the contact is one-time, and you do not want to position yourself in relation to her, behave like a creature from another world. For example, a bird in a tree. Those. Demonstrate to the dog that your life paths do not intersect with her. In other words, don’t pay any attention to her (or at least pretend to). Do not look into her eyes, do not turn in her direction (if the dog shows interest in you from afar, observe with peripheral vision). She is an empty place, and you are busy with your own affairs. Then she won’t think that you are encroaching on her territory, her place in the pack, or that you don’t want to take away her prey.

General rules

Dogs are excellent telepaths. They sense your mood and condition well, the presence of adrenaline in your blood. But adrenaline can be different. There is adrenaline of fear - you are a ready victim, you are afraid of the dog, and you are ready to get rid of it. And there is the adrenaline of victory, the one that is present in the blood of the winner, the one that gives a feeling of delight.

Don't be afraid of dogs. Dogs can be trained for a person (there are an insignificant number of them among those with whom you come into contact) and Untrained. Training a dog on a person is a very expensive pleasure, and either completely frostbitten owners of fighting dogs or special services go for it. The latter, however, you should not be afraid of. If it comes down to it, then the attack of this dog is nothing compared to your further problems. In addition, they are trained for detention, and not for extermination and gnawing to death.

Untrained dogs do not have the skills to attack humans. Serious injuries are possible only by accident - a dog bites your leg - you fall and hit your head on the asphalt. Usually it ends with bites of the legs, arms, and occasionally the torso and face.

People can also be prepared or unprepared for defense against dogs. The worst option is an attack by a dog trained on a person on an unprepared person or child. The probability of death for humans is very high. The best option for a person is a trained person and an untrained dog. The probability of death for a dog is almost 100%.

If both “contactees” are unprepared, then, as a rule, things don’t come to a fight. The bite will most likely be one-time and accidental. Most likely, everything will end in barking and screaming.

In a conflict between a trained dog and a trained person, the person almost always wins, although often with great losses.

Therefore, it is better to always be prepared for a fight with a dog. Even basic training greatly increases your chances of getting out of battle without serious damage to your body, not to mention survival. As they say, be prepared. If you want peace, prepare for war.

The best war is the one that hasn't started

A dog attack on a person (if it is not a special service dog and not on the orders of the owner) is still a rare phenomenon. In 99% of cases it all ends in angry barking and mutual threats. But if you don't want to win this lottery, don't buy lottery tickets.

Never tease a dog, don't shout, don't swing at it, don't provoke it into aggression. You also cannot sneak up, suddenly and loudly address its owner, behave aggressively, or make sudden movements. Don't try to give your dog commands. Thus, you claim the place of the Master, whom she protects. Any of these actions for a dog means an attack on it, its owner, or territory. And, of course, it will cause a defensive response.

Don't expect to intimidate the dog, especially if it is with its owner. Only a downtrodden stray dog ​​can be intimidated. She has probably suffered a lot from people and she herself will not want to come into contact with them again. It is extremely difficult to intimidate a dog “with its owner”; as a watchman and guard, it will work to the end. It’s easier to kill him or incapacitate him in some other way than to intimidate him.

Therefore, the best way to avoid conflict is not to provoke it yourself.

Stray dogs

If you see that a flock has spread out in the middle of the road, it is better to cross calmly and ahead of time to the other side. There is no need to try to take the place of the leader of this pack. Don't tempt fate and don't carry lottery tickets. If the flock is lying down and not prowling, it means that it is not hunting.

If this is not possible and it is impossible to separate, there are two possible options for behavior. One of them is to demonstrate complete indifference to them. However, a completely unmotivated attack on their part is possible here. Little will seem to them. Walking through a pack of dogs is not pleasant.

Perhaps this is the only way when there is a reason to start a war first. While approaching, you should shout at the dogs in a loud and low voice, reminiscent of a growl. A dog is an animal, although it distinguishes articulate speech, it reacts to intonation. If you start with threats (“growls”), then you are ready for battle. And if she has nothing to defend here, she (they) will most likely retreat even after screaming.

You should demonstratively show the dogs that you are armed - pick up (or pretend to pick up) a stick, branch, stone from the ground. Dogs probably have had unpleasant experiences with these objects and don’t want a relapse. If distance allows, you can even throw a stone towards the flock, demonstrating the seriousness of your intentions.

Familiar dogs

The best thing to do is to actually get to know them. You will have to live with them, as they say, i.e. collide constantly. Those. in a calm voice, talk to the owner about the weather, his car, ask for advice about the dog (even if you hate this flea bag). Say a few compliments towards the owner and herself. In general, make her smell you and remember you and the timbre of your voice. Moreover, the friendly atmosphere of the first acquaintance is important. "The master's friend is my friend (though not the master)." Such a confrontation will greatly reduce the likelihood of a conflict between you and the dog. But it will never reduce it to zero, sometimes dogs even attack their own owners, so you still need to be on alert and feel the dog’s mood.

Strange dogs

This contingent is the most dangerous because it is “with the owner”, “on duty”, can be trained, etc. Some “dog lovers” - moral monsters - even like the fact that everyone around them is afraid of their dog.

It is best not to provoke conflict here. See general guidelines. Behave independently, do not infringe on their interests, do not make claims. Even if a conflict does occur, the truth will be on your side; you were not the initiator, which almost guarantees victory in court proceedings.

If war cannot be avoided

Learn "materiel parts". The dog is a strong, muscular animal, weighing several tens of kilograms. Its main weapons are teeth and fangs. A dog is not a cat; it doesn’t use its claws. The typical behavior of a dog when attacking is to jump, knock over the enemy, followed by biting. Some try to grab onto the throat, some inflict multiple bites, trying to tear out pieces of meat. This is about a trained dog. They are trained to dodge blows and are very resourceful and agile.

A dog doesn't have many vulnerabilities, but they do exist. And if you know them, you can quickly neutralize any dog, especially using various “weapons.”

The most wrong thing in a fight with a dog is fear of it and passive defense (falling, covering your head with your hands, etc.) - in this case, you will definitely suffer more than if you actively defend yourself.

So, what places on a dog’s body are most vulnerable. This is, first of all, the tip of the nose, the bridge of the nose, the back of the head and the crown behind the ears, the solar plexus, ribs, paw joints, and tailbone. Vulnerable places also include the eyes, nostrils (smell), mucous membranes, and genitals. These vulnerable spots must be affected mechanically (with a fist, fingers, improvised objects (stones, sticks, branches, dust, dirt), and pre-prepared weapons.

It should be taken into account that trained dogs and dogs of certain breeds (fighting dogs) are accustomed to pain and it is very difficult to take them under pain control. Therefore, you should disable them simply mechanically - not pretend that you are breaking a paw, but really break it. Do not press with your knee on the dog’s ribs, but jump with all your weight. Your goal is to KILL the dog, not drive it away or “punish” it. She has already crossed the threshold of what is permitted and must be destroyed. At least she won't stop and will attack even a dead person (she doesn't know if he's dead or alive), so you really are fighting to the death. And not virtually.

Psychological weapon

Some psychologists argue that many people find it psychologically difficult to fight dogs. Just as most people experience disgust and a feeling of disgust if a spider or cockroach falls on them and an instant desire to kill them (although in our area these are the most harmless insects, and spiders are generally useful), so in a fight between a dog and a person, the person does not know how to fight a dog. Therefore, the main model of his behavior is passive defense - to close himself, run away, and reduce his losses to a minimum. The dog has complete and overwhelming moral superiority in such a battle and comes out of it without any losses at all and as a winner.

To defeat a dog morally, imagine that it is a small evil dwarf man with sharp teeth who will bite, who has done you a lot of harm. But you must (and most importantly have every chance) to kill him.

Mentally, you must be prepared for the fact that, most likely, you will not manage without bites. Some clothes will also be damaged. But in any case, the losses will be less than if you immediately surrender to the mercy of the winner. And if you are the winner, then the dog owner will have problems. Do not hesitate to assess your moral and physical damage.

Imagine the scene of how you break her paws, ribs, strangle her with your knee, tear her apart, her blood flows like a river, she squeals and tries to run away. Thus, you yourself will mentally prepare for battle, and dogs - telepaths, will also “see” this picture of their bleak future. Behave like Tarzan, demonstrate absolute determination and readiness to engage in battle immediately. Inject the adrenaline of the Winner into your blood. And you have to shout it loudly and in an angry growling voice, “Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar» Shout whatever you want, but shout “scary.”

In addition to the psychological impact on the dog, these screams will attract others. But the dog owner is not at all happy to have so many witnesses. Therefore, he will make every effort to prevent conflict.

Another psychological weapon is your behavior. Dogs are trained to ATTACK a person and defend themselves from his retaliatory actions. Untrained dogs act instinctively, as when hunting. And during the hunt, this is exactly how it acts - they overtake the prey, jump, knock it over backwards and tear or gnaw its throat. Her nature has taught this for millions of years.

Another model of behavior is when the victim stops and begins to defend himself. Then the pack surrounds her in a ring, and those dogs that are from behind attack. In our case there is no pack, and you are always face to face.

What follows from an analysis of a dog’s behavior during an attack? You have to behave UNSTANDARDLY, not the way she expects. In the most dangerous case, a dog is trained on a person. Act NOT LIKE A HUMAN, but like an unusual animal.

Never act passively by falling and covering yourself with your hands.

You should never run away - you won’t run away anyway, a dog runs 5 times faster than a person. The exception is when it is possible to be guaranteed to be out of the dog's reach. For example, quickly climb a branchy tree, climb a ladder, or enter waist-deep water.

By the way, a dog in water is very defenseless. You are standing on the ground, and it is floating. It is enough to dodge at least once, grab her by the fur, lean on her and dive with her or bend down so that her muzzle is in the water. It will all be over in a minute. Simply put, if it rushes into the water after you, drowning the dog if desired is as easy as shelling pears.

If there is no way to hide, then you should take up defense, or even attack it yourself. For example, run towards her, screaming terribly, taking off your jacket (coat), waving improvised objects (umbrella, bag, briefcase). Then the dog turns from a hunter into a game, which is unfamiliar to it, it was not taught this. Other instincts begin to work - self-preservation. Even if the dog is not afraid and continues to run towards you, do not stop. If she jumps, dodge and give her a good kick in the groin or under the tail after her, hit her with your fist on the back of the head from top to bottom. A mistake during a jump for a dog is extremely stressful, sharply reducing its self-esteem - it has already lost one round. The main thing is not to let it knock you down during a jump due to its kinetic energy. But if after this she does not abandon the active form of attack, the game goes into the endgame.

You need to continue inappropriate behavior that the dog does not expect. You must immediately take a stable position and turn sideways to the dog. Bend your head down and cover your throat with your chin. If possible, take off your coat, jacket and use them to occupy the dog’s mouth or throw it over its head, blinding it. In this case, you need to hit, hit, and hit at vulnerable points. If you managed to knock down the dog, a lying dog is not a fighter. Jump on it with your whole body and knee forward, onto your chest and spine. If you manage to throw the dog's head back, hit the base of the skull with your fist and break its spine.

If you are not a large person and the dog is large enough, you can even get down on one or two knees for stability (but only after the dog jumps). Thus, you will become more stable and remove your legs, the most unprotected part of the body, from being hit.

An important role is played by the possibility of disruption of optical communication between the owner and the dog. Without visual contact with her owner, she feels much less confident. Therefore, if possible, take her with you to a bush, behind trees, around a corner, etc. The dog will immediately lose the incentive to continue the fight. The territory is probably not hers, the owner is also not visible, you are not game... Why fight for? In most cases, she will try to get out of the fight.

In battle, different types of “weapons” should be used. As they say in England, it doesn't matter what you have. What matters is how effectively you use it. Now about the "weapons".

Chemical weapon.

Dogs have an unsurpassed sense of smell. He is also their weakest point. If you force her to smell SOMETHING, then her desire to fight disappears almost instantly and regardless of her desire.

Various nerve gases from canisters “for people” have practically no effect on dogs. But pepper or mustard gases give an excellent effect. Therefore, purchase only such cans or cartridges for gas weapons. Gas weapons can be used against dogs from any distance. A dog getting caught in a cloud of such gas becomes disoriented very quickly. And if you manage to send a stream into your nostrils, the war ends immediately. This creature immediately has other problems that are more important than you.

During the war, SMERSH workers used a homemade mixture (the so-called Cayenne mixture) to neutralize dogs. It consists of a mixture of ground black pepper and tobacco in a 50/50 ratio. When buying tobacco, choose the smelliest one. Both pepper and tobacco are additionally ground to a dusty state (for example, with a coffee grinder). You can also add mustard powder. This “dust” sticks perfectly and settles on any wet mucous membrane - the nose, nostrils, mouth, eyes and causes an unbearable burning sensation, and with increasing effect. And unlike gas, which evaporates, dust is removed only mechanically - by washing. Those. the dog is neutralized for at least several hours plus further treatment. And if she inhales enough of it to the point of burning the respiratory tract, getting into the bronchi and lungs, then death is likely. Moreover, the end will be extremely painful.

This mixture should be stored in a plastic cylindrical cup. In the outer pocket. Moreover, the lid must be both tight and can be removed instantly and with one hand, for example, with a thumb. Vitamin bottles are ideal.

Practice the procedure of snatching the bottle from the upper chest pockets and dropping the cap. See training and other weapons.

You can also make powder grenades. To do this, take a New Year's cracker. She carefully disassembles the side of the confetti release. Instead of confetti, cayenne mixture is poured in and the cracker is sealed. The cord extends to 30-40 centimeters. If you are expecting “contact”, then the free end of the cord is tied in advance to a loop in your pocket, belt, etc. Then you can activate this mini-gun with one hand. He pulled it out - directed it - pulled it towards the enemy. A shot occurs with a mixture ejected 1-1.5 meters. It should be remembered that firecrackers have low reliability.

"Noise" weapon

Dogs, especially trained ones, are not afraid of the sound of gunfire. And it’s difficult to scare untrained people with an distracted loud sound. It's another thing to shoot her right in the ear. My grandfather slaughtered wild boars this way. The pig was not fed for a day and then given liquid food. She was not interested in anything else at this time. The grandfather calmly put the barrel of a gun with a blank cartridge into the pig’s ear and fired. Death was always instant. From painful shock and cerebral hemorrhage.

There are various scarecrow guns and devices for firing gas or noise cartridges on sale. With your left hand in the dog's mouth, insert the barrel into the ear and shoot. The dog is dead

In principle, you can use large firecrackers, but not for noise, but by making gas grenades out of them. To do this, a cayenne mixture is prepared, a small paper casing is glued around the firecracker, into which the mixture is poured (about one teaspoon). The casing is sealed.

When a firecracker explodes, a suspension of pepper, tobacco, and gunpowder is formed.

The only drawback is that firecrackers have low reliability and are difficult to activate unless special measures are taken.

You should use firecrackers with an incendiary head (strike on a box - throw - an explosion in a few seconds), and not with a cord.

Electric weapon

These, as you might guess, are electrical dischargers. Since the dog has a thick coat and a thick undercoat, the shock absorber should be modified slightly if you plan to use it on dogs. It is necessary to increase the contact needles to 3-5 centimeters. Fortunately, most vicious dogs are short-haired and it is not difficult for the spark plug contacts to penetrate their fur. If you have a discharger with firing contacts, only shoot for sure, at point-blank range. The main place of electric shock is the neck and chest.

"Fire" weapons

Signal cartridges of the "Torch" type are available for sale. This is a special compound in a body that resembles a small grenade. The principle of operation is like that of a firecracker - “pull the string, baby...” After activation, the cartridge within a minute throws out a torch of dazzling flame 30-50 centimeters long. If you extend the cord to 20-30 cm with a reliable cord, and carry the cartridge itself in an accessible place, then putting it into action will take half a second and with one hand. After a jerk, the cartridge turns into a mini-flamethrower. And I don’t know any animal that could withstand the pressure of flame for more than a second. You should only use this weapon if the dog has come into contact with you.

I would like to note that this cartridge does not require air to burn - it burns even under water. Therefore, he is not afraid of either wind or rain. But, unfortunately, the cartridge is disposable. And its action cannot be stopped.

A gas lighter can also serve as a flamethrower. Once I came across a Chinese lighter (defective), which produced a flame 20 centimeters long. Why not a flamethrower? You can easily set fire to the aggressor's face.

"Iron Tooth"

Remember Mowgli? His battle with Shere Khan? “The fairy tale is a lie, but there is a hint in it, a lesson for good fellows” (this is Pushkin). Quite a lot of household items have a dual purpose and can act as an “iron tooth” - a bladed weapon. In this case, the police cannot have any claims against you. Meanwhile, they will easily penetrate the dog’s neck.

First of all, this is:

  • Pen. Let it not be a plastic Chinese tube, but a metal one, made of steel, with a pointed end.
  • Comb. Let it have a long, thin, pointed handle. A la stiletto.
  • Screwdriver. With a spatula or cross. Any with a rod length of 10 centimeters.
  • Nail. 150-200 mm long.

A fairly optimal weapon is... a mortar pestle for grinding. Made of earthenware or metal. It significantly strengthens the punch, and if you hit from above (which is natural in a fight with a dog), a fractured skull, broken ribs or a broken spine are almost guaranteed.

Handy items

It could be a stone, a stick, a piece of asphalt, foliage, dust, dirt. None of these items should be thrown. Especially if he is alone. Clamp a stone in your fist - a blow with it will be much more painful than with just a fist. A stick can be used to keep a dog at a distance, but upon contact, it can break the dog’s spine or poke it in the eye, mouth, or groin. An armful of leaves can be put into the dog’s mouth, into the muzzle. You will cause little harm to her, but you will gain time, be able to take a more stable position, and take an advantageous position. Dust and dirt can clog her eyes, nose, and make her sneeze. You just need to use them point-blank, in contact with the dog’s muzzle.

Among the available items you have with you, there may be an umbrella, a package, a bag, clothes... You should not use an umbrella as a baton, it is not effective. The umbrella works much better as a shield. Open and close it - the dog does not understand the essence of things. For her, paper is an insurmountable obstacle if she does not see the goal. And the suddenly changing geometric dimensions of the victim simply confuse her. Let's remember the Incas, Mayans and Aztecs. When they first saw a rider on a horse, they thought that he was half-animal, half-man. And they were horrified when the rider dismounted - the animal was separated. A dog (any dog) simply gets scared if the canopy of an umbrella suddenly opens in front of it.

The bag can “occupy” the dog’s mouth. If you hit her in the face or nose, the dog will reflexively try to bite her. Let her grab the bag. When she grabs it, pull it towards you with all your might. The dog will try to hold it. Move the bag to the side, create a distraction and kick the dog. If possible, knock the dog over and fall on it with your whole body.

If you can remove your jacket or coat, use it to distract the dog, like a shield. Try to throw the coat over the dog, blinding it and making it difficult for it to move. If you succeed, fall on her with your entire weight. If you were unable to remove the coat entirely, try to release half of the left sleeve. Use it as a "stand" to keep your dog's mouth occupied. You can strike with your right, free hand.

If you don't have a dog at hand, train without it. If you are shy, go to your dacha, in an open field, in the forest. In the end, just practicing a strike is already a great thing. You also need to be able to hit hard. If you are not training alone, a partner can play the role of the dog (alternately).

In any case, you must be mentally prepared to fight a dog. Many people simply freeze if a dog attacks them and go into a deep defense, which consists of dodging the dog and screaming pitifully. They don't even think about active defense, let alone attack.

Remember, a trained person can kill a dog, or at least knock it out, almost instantly. For example, with a counter punch to the nose, to the back of the head, to the bridge of the nose. He can take her under pain control by simultaneously hitting her with his fingers in the eyes, hitting her in the solar plexus, plugging or tearing out her nostrils with his fingers. A dog can take control of a person in rare cases, and only if he is completely unprepared.

Therefore, you must be morally stronger than the dog and feel like you are the master of the situation. Dogs feel it too. Your ideology should be “I will do whatever I want with you, and you will only do with me what I allow you.”

Consequences

During a fight with a dog, do not under any circumstances take care of “branded” clothing, things, etc. their cost is a mere trifle compared to the cost of quality treatment for bites. In addition, their cost, plus moral damages, can be reimbursed through court from the dog owner. It would be very stupid if you find yourself badly bitten because you were “cherishing” your favorite jacket. You have ONE life and health, but you will buy new jeans or a jacket 10 more times. And at the expense of the dog owner.

Any fact of a dog attacking a person (independently or at the instigation of the owner) is an emergency. Under no circumstances should such incidents be left without consequences. Even if the owner claims that you teased his dog, the dog must be on a leash and muzzle in a public place. The maximum that she is allowed is to rant to her heart's content at the one who teases her. In the owner’s apartment, let her at least walk on the ceiling and on his head. But not in a public place.

Even if someone’s dog just barked at you, this is already a THREAT, and a reason to contact the police, court, deputy, SES, etc. The first 5 of your statements may not be paid attention to. But water wears away stones...

Moreover, if your path lies through a “dog area” where you could potentially be attacked, write letters. And send them by registered mail and with notification. To all authorities, even to the President of the Russian Federation. The one who creates problems for other citizens should have problems, and not vice versa. And don’t listen to “animal defenders” - civilized Europe is full of cities where keeping dogs is simply PROHIBITED by law. Do you want a dog? - live in the village. Do you love a dog? - love! But others don’t have to love her! Your dog is your problem. And try to make sure that no one has any trouble because of your dog.

Someone great said: “The more I get to know people, the more I love dogs.” There is of course some truth here. But he loves HIS dogs, not dogs in general. Yes, some people are assholes. But dogs are just animals, they do not obey the law, but obey only their instincts and reflexes. And therefore it is necessary to treat them like animals, and not “create an idol out of them.” Even if they are very expensive in monetary terms.