Brick heating and cooking stoves, the projects of which will be presented below, can be called the best option for installation in country cottages and private houses. The functionality of this variety is such that it allows you to heat the room and feed the whole family a delicious lunch. Equipped with an oven, a drying chamber, and sometimes a water-heating box, heating and cooking stoves are able to create the most comfortable conditions for living in a home without centralized or autonomously arranged amenities.

This type of furnace can have different sizes and design features. Structures can be massive or compact, and, as a rule, the necessary models are selected in accordance with the area of ​​the house. Therefore, it is very important to take into account not only the functional qualities of the heating structure, but also its heat transfer. When choosing a place to build a stove and carry out thermal insulation of a building, it is necessary to take into account the rules of SNiP 41-01-2003 developed by specialists, otherwise problems may arise with organizations that control the fire safety of residential buildings.

When deciding to build a stove yourself, you need to prepare for a labor-intensive and quite long work, since the laying process must take place measuredly and carefully. If you have no experience in the skill of a stove maker, you should strictly adhere to the tips and recommendations that will be given below, as well as carefully study and thoroughly analyze the presented ordering diagrams.

Criteria for choosing the design of a heating and cooking furnace

As mentioned above, many designs of heating and cooking stoves with different performance characteristics have been developed. In order for this heating device to be efficient in operation and meet all requirements, it is necessary to pay attention to the following points during its construction:

• Dimensions of the brick structure. When choosing the size of the stove, you need to take into account the fact that its side walls give off more heat than the back and front surfaces.
• Considering the size of the walls and their ability to transfer heat, it is necessary to consider how the stove will be installed. To quickly and efficiently heat a room, the stove is placed with its side facing it, and the cooking chamber is turned towards the kitchen area.
• The shape of the stove can be T-shaped, square, rectangular, and also with a protrusion in the form of a stove or a stove bench. Each of the stoves, when installed correctly, can heat from two to four rooms.
• The heat output of a brick heating structure is selected depending on the area and location of the room that it must heat.

This table shows the dependence of the dimensions of the furnace (the area of ​​its walls) relative to the area and location of the heated room:

Room area (m²)	Furnace surface (m²)
	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outside corner	Room with two external corners	Hallway
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

• For small rooms, you should not choose massive heating structures, since they can be heated by a compact stove. To heat up a massive furnace, you will need a large number of fuel, and this design will take quite a long time to warm up.
• The efficiency of the stove will directly depend on how insulated the building is. In a well-insulated house, a small stove will be sufficient, since the walls, floor and ceiling will reliably retain the heat it generates indoors and will reliably protect against the cold trying to penetrate from the outside.

Only after taking into account all these factors do they make a choice in favor of one or another model of heating and cooking stove.

Models of heating and cooking stoves

The design of multifunctional stove models can be different - either with a complex internal configuration of chimney ducts, or completely simple. If the laying of the stove will be done by a novice craftsman, then you should not immediately “swing” at complex and incomprehensible structures. Before getting down to work, you need to try to figure out how the heated air, along with combustion products, will pass towards the chimney pipe, since during laying it will be necessary to comply with all row configurations in order to remove the gas exhaust channels correctly.

The most popular models that have a design accessible for masonry are “Swedish”, “Dutch” and a hob. In addition to them, there are heating structures that are named after the names of their developers. Thus, you can find the orders of heating and cooking stoves of Proskurin, Bykov, Porfiryev, Kuznetsov, Podgorodnikov and other craftsmen.

You might be interested in information about how .

Ovens can also be divided according to their shape. So, they can have the following configuration.

• A T-shaped heating and cooking stove is usually massive in size and can be installed in the middle of a large room, dividing it into different zones. Another option is that it is built into the walls between three rooms, fully heating them.

If the house is of medium size and does not have any other heating besides the stove, then the T-shaped model will be the best option for it, since you will not have to install and heat several stoves.

• A narrow oven with a protruding hob is less functional, but it takes up much less space. This design is capable of fully heating two rooms, and therefore is perfect for a country house, especially, due to its simple design, even a novice stove maker can probably put it together. The compactness of the structure allows it to be built into the wall between the living room and the kitchen.

This way, the stove will be able to not only heat two rooms at the same time, but also cook dinner. Such a stove is indispensable for a small country house, since it can be heated with dry branches or dead wood, and this stuff can always be found in the nearest forest plantation.

• This stove model is medium in size and aesthetically pleasing appearance. Although it is not as massive as the “Russian” one, it is equipped with all the functions characteristic of the latter. There is a built-in chamber inside the structure, in which you can not only prepare stews, but also bake aromatic homemade bread. A hob is installed in front of the entrance to the inner chamber.

Using it and the cooking chamber, you can cook several dishes at once. There is a chamber above the hob for drying vegetables and fruits, and it can also be used to store ready-made dishes that need to be kept warm.

The glass door of the firebox is quite large, so the stove, if desired, can also be used as a fireplace. A bed heated on both sides can serve as an excellent warm bed.

It is good to install such a stove between two rooms that need to be heated. This model is a good option for country house, if it is used for living most of the year.

• This model can easily be called a stove-fireplace, and this type of heating structure is usually installed in the middle of the house, only then dividing it into separate rooms. The fireplace insert goes into the living room or bedroom, the hob goes into the kitchen, and the back wall is quite capable of heating another small room. Thus, the whole house will be filled with dry and pleasant warmth emanating from the walls of the brick stove.

Most often, heating and cooking stoves have a “winter” and “summer” operation in their design, which allows you to use only the stove and oven in the warm season, without heating the entire massive structure. This feature is convenient because you don’t have to endure the heat from a heated stove when it’s summer weather outside, and it also allows you to save on fuel.

Location of the stove in the house

The location of the planned furnace plays an important role in ensuring high-quality heating of the house, as well as in the practicality and safety of its use. However, there are other criteria that should be taken into account when choosing a place to install it.

• Most often, in a small house, the stove is installed at the crossroads of the walls dividing the building into separate rooms, as shown in the diagram above.
• If the stove is located close to the entrance, it will create a kind of thermal curtain from the cold air coming from the street.
• A firebox door opening into the hallway or kitchen will make it possible to easily deliver fuel to it, which means less garbage will end up in the living rooms.
• All walls of the heating structure must be free, that is, not blocked by anything, and should not be adjacent to the wall. This is explained by the fact that for the purposes of safety and proper control, the masonry of the structure requires periodic inspection, preventive maintenance and emptying the cleaning chambers from accumulated fumes.
• The foundation of the stove must be reliable and not connected to the main foundation of the house itself. The reason is the different shrinkage rates of the base - it is impossible for one to “pull” the other. These factors must be taken into account for safety reasons, since if deformation of the stove base occurs, then cracks may appear in the seams between the bricks, through which it can penetrate into the premises. carbon monoxide, dangerous not only to health, but also to human life.
• The structure is installed so that the chimney passes between the floor beams, which, in turn, must be insulated from it with heat-resistant material.
• To maintain fire safety, in front of the fireboxes it is necessary to place a platform covered with a heat-resistant material - this can be sheet metal or ceramic tiles. Space must also be provided for this site in advance.

Basic elements of the furnace design

When starting to analyze the procedures, it is necessary to have an understanding of the main elements of the furnace design and their purpose, since with such information the internal configuration of the channels and chambers will be more clear.

• The firebox or fuel chamber can be called the “heart” of the stove. Fuel is placed in it, after combustion of which heat fills all the internal channels of the structure, heating the entire structure.

The firebox is separated from the lower ash chamber by a cast-iron grate, through which air is blown, providing draft for heated air and combustion products. The combustion chamber has a hole in its ceiling that connects it with channels through which smoke is directed into the chimney.

• The ash chamber or ash pan is a regulator of the air supply to the firebox and at the same time a collector for ash from the fuel burned in the firebox. This part of the stove must be cleaned periodically to avoid backdraft, which will cause smoke to enter the living space.
• Cleaning chambers with cast iron doors are connected to internal chimney channels and are designed for their regular cleaning. The soot deposited on the walls from the rising smoke eventually falls into the chambers, which must be periodically cleaned, otherwise the draft in the chimney will be reduced.
• The chimney channels passing inside the structure have different configurations in different models. They can run vertically and horizontally, covering the entire structure. The heated air, passing through them, gives off heat to the walls of the furnace, which, in turn, radiate it into the room.

Each stove has its own system of internal channels for moving smoke and hot air

• Metal and cast iron elements, such as a water heating tank, hob and oven, are built into the stove masonry according to the diagram and are intended for cooking and heating water.
• If the stove design includes a fireplace insert, then a cast iron grate must be installed in front of it to prevent burning wood from falling out of the hearth.

Materials for constructing a furnace

One of critical issues is to purchase high-quality materials for the construction of the stove, since the durability and reliability of the structure will depend on them. So, to build a heating and cooking stove you will need:

• Heat-resistant solid red brick. Its quantity depends on specific model. When purchasing material, you must carefully inspect it - there should be no chips on the edges of the brick, and there should be no serious depressions on the surfaces. This material must be transported very carefully, as it is quite fragile.

Fireclay bricks - for laying out heat-resistant sections of the furnace

• Fireclay brick is used for lining the combustion chamber, as it can withstand temperatures of 1400÷1500 °C. When heated, this material retains a high temperature for a long time due to its density, which means that thanks to it the oven will remain hot longer.

Particular attention is paid to the quality of the masonry mortar

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

• For laying bricks, it is necessary to select the correct composition of the mortar. Or rather, there are usually even several of them used - for different departments of the structure. And yet, the main material for fastening bricks is a clay-sand mixture. The fireclay walls of the firebox are placed on the same solution, only fireclay is added to it along with quartz sand. For the section of the chimney pipe located on the street, cement mortar is used. To lay the first two rows of the furnace structure, some craftsmen prefer to use a lime mixture.

The choice of masonry mortar requires a special approach.

Choosing and composing the solution correctly is a whole science. Some recommendations of the masters are outlined in a special article on our portal, which talks specifically about.

• Cast iron elements, such as doors, valves, stove, fireplace grate, etc., must be selected not only for their quality, but sometimes also for their decorative design, since they must match the overall exterior of the stove.
• Metal elements - an oven and a water heating tank - will be necessary if they are planned in the design.
• You will need annealed steel wire with a diameter of 4÷5 mm to secure the cast iron elements.
• You need asbestos sheets 5 mm thick or asbestos cord. They are used to create a thermal gap between brick and cast iron (steel) elements.

Now that there is clarity with preliminary planning and the necessary materials, you can move on to studying the order schemes. Next, we will consider the construction of two affordable, functional and compact models that will certainly appeal to novice stove makers.

Stove-fireplace "Swedish" A. Ryazankina

This is a heating and cooking stove-fireplace, one of the many variations of the “Swedish” stove, which is quite popular among Russian stove makers and householders. This design has gained popularity not only due to its simple arrangement, but also due to the rapid heating of surfaces, and therefore the transfer of heat into the premises. In addition, the stove is equipped not only with a hob and an oven, but its design also includes a fireplace function. The successful arrangement of all elements allows it to be installed in such a way that it will be effective for heating two rooms.

Heating and cooking “Swedish” stove-fireplace designed by Ryazankin

Another advantage of this model is its compactness, which allows it to be placed both in a small room and in a spacious room.

This Swedish model has a base size of 1020 × 890 mm and a height of 2170 mm, excluding the height of the chimney pipe. It should be taken into account that one side of the structure will be wider due to the protrusion of the fireplace portal by 130 mm.

The foundation for installing the furnace must be larger than its base, and the sides of the square slab being poured must be 1120 x 1120 mm.

This stove is heated with wood and its power is 3000 kcal/hour. It can effectively heat 32-35 m² of area, which is not bad for such a small structure.

What materials will be needed?

Table of necessary materials for the construction of a fireplace stove:

Name of material	Size(mm)	Quantity (pcs.)
	250×120×60	714
Blower door	140×140	1
Door for combustion chamber	210×250	1
Door for cleaning chambers	140×140	8
Oven	450×360×300	1
	410×710	1
Grate	200×300	1
Chimney damper	130×250	3
Steel corner	50×50×5×1020	2
Steel strip	50×5×920	3
Steel strip	50×5×530	2
Steel strip	50×5×480	2
A fireplace grate can be made independently from reinforcing bars.	110×700	1
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox	500×700	1
	5 mm thick	1

Table with the order of masonry of a heating and cooking "Swedish" with a fireplace designed by Ryazankin

Order scheme
	To have a better idea of ​​the laying scheme of this furnace model, the project will be considered in the form of a drawing and in 3D projections, with detailed description each of the rows.
	The first row consists of 34 bricks and is the basis of the entire structure, so the brick covers it completely, that is, it forms a continuous surface. Installation of this series is carried out on a waterproofing material - roofing felt, laid in 2-3 layers. Since the first row determines the reliability of the entire structure, it must be laid out perfectly straight, having previously verified and marked the corners on the roofing material using a square, ruler and chalk. Next, keeping the diagram at hand and observing the location of the bricks, the masonry is done first dry, and then with mortar.
	The second row consists of 30 ½ bricks and, like the first, has a continuous plane. On the side of the future fireplace, metal brackets made from pieces of reinforcement are attached to the brick, onto which the fireplace grate will be welded. If the grille already has brackets, then it is completely fixed to the brickwork.
	The third row consists of 19 bricks. At this stage, the walls of the fireboxes and chimney channels are laid. Between the place where the oven will be located and the emerging vertical channel, you must leave at least 170 mm. When laying the walls, openings are left for installing the blower and cleaning doors. Then the doors are installed in place and secured with wire twists, which are embedded in the seams between the rows. Since only the next row can finally fix the wire, the doors are temporarily supported by stacks of bricks.
	The fourth row is laid out from 18 bricks. The doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are finally fixed on it. Due to the fact that wire is embedded in the seams between the third and fourth rows, the seams can be two to three millimeters wider.
	The fifth row consists of 24 bricks. Above the blower chamber, bricks are laid with grooves cut into them, into which the grate will be placed. In addition, a place is being prepared for installing an oven. The front bricks, in the place where the metal box will be installed, are cut off, since their height should be 25 mm. It is recommended to use heat-resistant fireclay bricks to lay out the walls of the firebox.
	Before replacing the oven box, it is lined or wrapped with asbestos to create a gap around it for thermal expansion when heated.
	On the fifth row, a grate of 200×300 mm and an oven box of 450×360×300 mm are installed.
	The sixth row is laid out from 19½ bricks. A combustion chamber is formed on it, on the right and rear walls of which the brick is installed on the side and cut to a height of 75 mm. On the same row, the passage between the oven chamber and the vertical channel is blocked. When laying out the back wall of the fireplace, the bricks move forward 35 mm and are pressed together, forming a smooth transition from the extended row to a flat wall.
	On the sixth row, the combustion door (210×250 mm) is installed, which is pre-wrapped or lined with asbestos, which creates a gap for the thermal expansion of the metal when it is heated. The fire door is also fixed with wire twists, which will be embedded in the next seam between the rows.
	An ordering diagram from rows 7 to 12, which will help you better consider the configuration of the masonry.
	The seventh row, consisting of 20 bricks, is laid out according to the diagram. The bricks that form the right and rear walls of the combustion chamber are installed on the side. The bricks on the back wall of the fireplace on this row are also moved forward by 35 mm and cut diagonally to form a single inclined plane. The front part of the fireplace insert is covered with a metal strip measuring 50x530x5 mm - it will become the basis for laying subsequent rows. This element can be laid flat or in a semi-arch - for this, the strip is given the desired shape in advance.
	The eighth row consists of 18 bricks. The bricks on the back wall of the fireplace are moved forward by 35 mm and compared, by cutting them diagonally, with the underlying rows. The back wall of the fireplace should be inclined forward to allow smoke to flow smoothly into the chimney opening when wood is burning in the firebox.
	The ninth row consists of 20 bricks. When it is laid out, the door of the fuel chamber is closed. The brick that forms the back wall of the firebox is cut at an angle. The brick of the back wall of the fireplace moves forward 20 mm and is trimmed from below so that an even slope without protrusions is formed. The oven box is covered at the front with two steel strips measuring 50x5x480 mm.
	10th row - the front part of the oven is covered with a brick. The brick is laid on metal strips. The combustion chamber and oven space are combined into one common one. A cutout is made in the upper part of the bricks framing both chambers for laying the hob. A place is prepared for installing the door on the cleaning chamber in the upper part of the fireplace. To lay this row, 17 ½ bricks are used.
	On the 10th row, a two-burner hob measuring 410×710 mm is installed on the prepared place, then a cleaning door 140×140 mm and a metal corner 50× 50× 5×1020 mm are installed, which will strengthen the front part of the cooking chamber. The cast iron hob is mounted on asbestos laid in the cutout on the top bricks.
	The 11th row is made of 18½ bricks. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber begin to form. Bricks laid on the right must cover the resulting gap of 210 mm between the hob and the right wall. The bricks laid above the firebox are pushed into the chamber by 40 mm and cut from below at an angle, continuing to form the inclined shape of the back wall of the fireplace.
	The 12th row is laid out from 18 bricks. It covers the door of the cleaning chamber. The bricks of the front wall of the firebox are shifted inward by 40 mm and cut diagonally.
	In this drawing you can clearly see the configuration of the brickwork from rows 13 to 24. Moreover, the diagram even shows the direction of movement air masses through chimney channels.
	The 13th row consists of 19 bricks. The elements of the front wall of the fireplace move forward, inside the firebox, by 40 mm and are cut diagonally, compared with the rows below. In addition, the walls of the hob and chimney ducts continue to rise.
	14th row. A shelf begins to form above the fireplace insert. To do this, the bricks laid in this row are moved forward and to the side by 30 mm. It will look like a row of bricks hanging over the firebox. A row will require 19 bricks.
	The 15th row is laid out from 20½ bricks. The mantelpiece continues to be laid out on it by moving a row of bricks forward by 30 mm. The removal of the walls of the cooking chamber is completed.
	The 16th row consists of 15 ½ bricks. After laying them, the front part of the “ceiling” of the hob is strengthened with an installed steel angle measuring 50 × 50 × 5 × 1020 mm, and the middle and rear part of the “ceiling” of the chamber is covered with steel strips measuring 50 × 5 × 920 mm. All metal elements will become the basis for covering the chamber with bricks. The remaining bricks are laid according to the diagram.
	17th row. The cooking chamber is completely covered using 26 bricks. Only two openings for the chimney channels are left.
	18th row. The second continuous row is laid, which consists of 30 bricks.
	The 19th row is laid out from 19 ½ bricks. At this stage, the formation of the upper gas outlet channels and cleaning chambers, on which the doors are installed, takes place. The jumper between the fireplace flue and vertical duct is shifted 30 mm to the left. In this case, the lower and upper left edges of the brick are cut off.
	20th row. The lintel, as in the 19th row, is moved to the left another 30 mm, and the lintel brick is also cut obliquely. This row will require 22½ bricks.
	21st row. The doors of the cleaning chambers installed on top of the cooking niche are closed, and a door is installed on another cleaning channel, above the fireplace insert. The chimney opening of the fireplace is narrowed by another 30 mm. The main chimney channel is blocked to the size of ¾ brick, and a “shelf” is formed inside the channel. A row will require 22½ bricks.
	22nd row. In the place where the “shelf” is formed, a place is prepared for the cleaning door at the base of the vertical channel. The jumper between the two channels located above the fireplace is further shifted to the left by 30 mm. After the row is folded, a door is installed on the channel. For a row you need to prepare 22 bricks.
	The 23rd row is laid out from 23 bricks. The jumper between the channels is still moving to the left. The cleaning door above the fireplace is covered with brick.
	24th row. A place is being prepared for installing a chimney valve. To do this, special grooves are cut out in the bricks framing the chimney opening. Then, a valve structure having a size of 130x250 mm is installed on the clay solution. To lay this row you will need 22 bricks.
	25th row. A shelf is installed at the base of the chimney duct, and a place is prepared for installing another valve - for the cooking chamber. Then, also on the clay mortar, the valve itself, measuring 130x250 mm, is mounted. A row will require 24 bricks.
	Final diagram showing the configuration of the brickwork from rows 25 to 33.
	26th row. At this stage, the openings of the chimney vertical channels are combined in pairs. The opening of the fireplace channel, due to cutting the upper edge of the brick at 45 degrees, is shifted to the center. A place is being prepared to install the cleaning chamber door for the main vertical channel. The main chimney duct is connected to the system of all gas outlets of the furnace. After the row is laid out, a door is installed to clean the chimney. For a row you need to prepare 21 bricks.
	27th row. Continuation of the displacement of the fireplace channel to the center of the structure. In this row, the middle brick, located on the opposite side of the main chimney channel, is cut obliquely, and two bricks shifted onto the channel are cut at an angle of 45 degrees from below. A row will require 21 bricks.
	28th row. The chimneys of the fireplace and stove merge, and the fireplace channel continues to move towards the center. 20 bricks are used for a row.
	29th row. The stove structure is completely blocked, with the exception of the chimney opening, which continues to move towards the center. The brickwork moves beyond the perimeter of the furnace by 25 mm. For masonry you will need 34 ½ bricks.
	30th row. This row, just like the previous one, is shifted by 25 mm, but already in relation to the underlying bricks. The size of the chimney opening is reduced to 130×260 mm. A row will require 36 bricks.
	31st row. The perimeter of the structure returns to the main size of the furnace - this is achieved by shifting the brick inward by 50 mm. When laying out a row, special cutouts are made in the bricks framing it to install the valve on the chimney opening. Then, the valve itself, having a size of 130x250 mm, is mounted in this groove. For a row you will need 27 bricks.
	32nd row. The first row is formed, that is, the base of the superimposed chimney pipe. This will require 5 bricks.
	33rd row of the furnace or second row of pipe laying. It also requires 5 bricks. Well, the pipe structure itself is laid out above.

These diagrams show sections of the furnace.

Sections - diagram 1

The first shows the direction of movement of smoke from the combustion chamber of the furnace through the chimney channels towards the pipe.

The first diagram clearly shows how the valves are installed on the vertical channels.

Section - diagram 2

The second picture shows the removal of smoke from the fireplace insert into the main chimney pipe, with the valves open.

Heating and cooking "Swedish" stove

This Swedish model is even more compact than the previous one, since it does not have a fireplace function. This means that its design is simpler, since there is no chimney duct from the fireplace insert.

Compact heating and cooking "Swedish"

The size of this structure is 1020x885x2030 mm, and the power is 2750 kcal/hour, which is enough to heat 30 m². It can be seen that the performance is slightly lower than that of the model discussed earlier. However, such a stove is quite capable of heating two adjacent rooms.

This stove has a convenient arrangement of the main elements, thanks to which it can be placed in the wall between two rooms. For example, the combustion part with a hob and oven opens into the kitchen, and the large heated surface of the back wall of the oven opens into the living area. By placing the structure in this way, that is, in the thickness of the wall, you can additionally gain space, so the stove will look more compact.

It should be noted that this project was compiled in compliance with certain conditions, upon learning about which many will choose in favor of just such a design.

• The stove was originally designed for heating a country house built from silicate blocks and measuring 4000x7000 mm.
• This heating device is designed to use wood, but it is quite possible to use other types of fuel.
• This design provides only the internal lining of the firebox and adjacent objects. Since the stove will be built from high-quality material, external wall decoration is not planned. The refractory brick is hidden inside the structure so that it does not disturb the harmonious appearance of the façade.
• The walls of this model must be thick, and laying bricks on the side (on a spoon) is not allowed.
• A drying chamber must be required in this model.

The result of this development, taking into account the specified criteria, was the furnace, the order of which will be discussed below.

Prices for silicate blocks

silicate blocks

Materials for construction

First you need to decide what materials and in what quantities will be needed for its construction.

Table of necessary materials for the construction of a heating and cooking “Swedish”:

Name of material	Size(mm)	Quantity (pcs.)
Red brick (excluding pipe height)	250×120×60	551
Fireproof fireclay brick Sh-8	250×124×65	31
Blower door	140×250	1
Door for combustion chamber	210×250	1
Door for cleaning chambers	140×140	3
Oven	450×250×290	1
Double burner cast iron stove	410×710	1
Grate	200×300	1
Chimney damper	130×250	1
Steam exhaust valve	130×130	1
Steel corner	45×45×5×1020	1
Steel strip	45×45×5×700	1
Steel strip	45×45×5×905	5
Steel strip	50×5×650	2
Drying rack	190×340	1
Metal sheet covering drying chambers	800×905	1
Pre-furnace metal sheet	500×700	1
Asbestos sheet or rope for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.	5 mm thick	1

Arrangement of the Swedish heating and cooking stove

Order scheme	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first row, consisting of 28 red bricks, is traditionally laid out as a continuous plane. It is very important to maintain ideal horizontal masonry and right angles of the base.
	The second row is also solid, but the configuration of the bricklaying differs from the bottom one, since the seams between the bricks of the first row must be overlapped by the solid surface of the second brick (tied together). This row will require 28½ red bricks.
	Third row. The blower chamber and the lower heating chamber, as well as vertical channels, begin to form. On the same row, three doors are installed on the cleaning chambers, as well as on the blower. In the internal structure of the row, two solid bricks and two three-quarter bricks are installed on the edge. In addition, a quarter of fireclay brick is installed at the entrance to the first chimney channel. For a row, 19 red and ¼ fireclay bricks are used.
	In the fourth row, all the chambers mentioned above continue to form. Both in the second and third rows, and in the fourth, the vertical channels are combined. For the row you should prepare 14½ red and ½ fireclay bricks.
	Fifth row. At this stage, all doors installed at the entrances to channels and chambers are closed. The bottom of the combustion chamber is lined with fireclay bricks. In the middle opening of the bottom part of the firebox, a step is cut out of refractory bricks on which the grate will be laid. For a row, 16 red and 8 fire bricks are used.
	Sixth row. A firebox door is installed, which is temporarily supported by loose bricks, as well as an oven box wrapped in asbestos. The inner walls of the fuel chamber and the base for the oven are made of fireclay bricks. It must be taken into account that the wall of refractory bricks erected between the fuel chamber and the oven should be a quarter of the brick. On the same row, the second and third vertical channels are separated from each other. For a row, 13 red and 6½ fireclay bricks are used.
	This figure shows the same sixth row - installing the oven. When installing it, we must not forget about the thermal gap for the expansion of the metal when it is heated - this can be provided by a layer of asbestos. The box can be wrapped with asbestos rope or covered with sheets cut to size.
	Seventh row. Chambers continue to be formed from two walls - an internal fire-resistant one and an external one made of red brick laid flat. For a row you will need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks.
	Eighth row. At this stage, the first chimney channel is closed. The rest of the masonry is carried out according to the scheme using 13 red and 5 fireclay bricks.
	Ninth row. The fire door is closed, and the rest of the masonry is carried out according to plan. For a row, 13½ red and 5 fireclay bricks are used.
	Tenth row. The oven is covered with brickwork. The top row of the wall between the firebox and the oven is not laid out. In the internal walls, lined with fireclay bricks, framing the upper space, 10 mm cutouts are made for mounting the hob. A row will require 15 red and 4½ fireclay bricks.
	Next, the hob is placed on the same row. You should also make a gasket under it from asbestos rope. The slab must be in the same plane with the walls of the structure. A metal corner is placed on the front wall, in front of the hob, which will protect the edge of the brick from chipping and secure the top row.
	11th row. The walls of the cooking chamber begin to form. The gap between the slab and the wall of the structure on the right side is filled with brick. To lay this row you will need 16½ red bricks.
	12th row - the masonry is carried out according to the diagram, and 15 red bricks are used for it.
	The 13th and 14th rows are laid out of red brick according to the pattern indicated in the order, taking into account the interlocking masonry. To work you will need: for the 13th row -15½, and for the 14th row 14½ bricks.
	The 15th and 16th rows are also placed according to the same pattern. For the 15th row you need 15½, and for the 16th row - 14½ red bricks.
	16th row. After the row has been removed, the cooking chamber is covered with three metal corners (45x45x905 mm), which are mounted in the middle and end of the chamber, and its edge is strengthened with a corner having dimensions of 45x45x700 mm. In the middle of the opening, two corners are placed, with vertical shelves facing each other. Thus, a reliable basis is obtained for covering the chamber with bricks.
	The 17th row is laid out from 25½ bricks. It blocks the camera space. In this case, an exhaust hole from the cooking chamber is formed in the surface, the size of which is half a brick. In addition to it, the walls of the channels located in the rear part of the furnace are laid out.
	The 18th row is laid solid. Only the chimney and exhaust duct remain open. The next step is to install a corner with dimensions of 45x45x905 mm on the front edge of the ceiling. The ceiling, reinforced on both sides, will securely hold two rows of brickwork. This row will require 25 red bricks.
	19th row. At this stage, two drying chambers are formed - large and small, as well as a ventilation channel that will remove steam from the cooking chamber. To lay this row you need to prepare 16 red bricks.
	Row 20 is laid out according to a pattern of 16 red bricks.
	The 21st and 22nd rows also have a similar configuration, tied together. For the 21st row, 16½ are used, and for the 22nd row, 16 red bricks are used. On the 22nd row, the small drying chamber is covered in the front part with a metal plate 190x340 mm.
	23rd row. The walls of drying chambers and smoke exhaust channels continue to form. A cutout is made in the brick above the ventilation duct - a seat for a valve that will regulate the temperature of the cooking chamber. Then, a valve measuring 140x140 mm is installed in the prepared cutout. To work you will need 17 red bricks.
	24th row. The work proceeds according to the scheme - the ventilation valve is closed, the first and second chimney channels are combined. To lay this row, you need to prepare 15½ bricks.
	25th row. At this stage, the ventilation and three vertical smoke exhaust channels are combined into one channel. A row will require 15½ red bricks.
	The 26th row is laid according to a pattern of 16½ red bricks.
	Next, on the 26th row, the basis is made for the subsequent covering of the drying chambers. For this, a metal corner measuring 45×45×905 and two steel strips 50×5×650 mm are used. The corner is mounted on the edge of the drying chambers and creates a rigid base for covering them with a metal sheet and a row of bricks.
	Then, a metal sheet measuring 800×905 mm is placed on top of the installed jumpers, which covers the entire cross-sectional surface of the stove, leaving only the third vertical chimney channel free.
	27th row. In this row, the metal sheet is covered with solid brickwork, which protrudes 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the stove. The hole in the chimney duct remains free in the left corner. The ceiling will require 32 red bricks.
	The 28th is the second row of complete overlap of drying chambers with a hole for the chimney. It is laid with a projection beyond the perimeter of the previous row by 25 mm. To lay it you will need 37 red bricks.
	The 29th row consists of 26½ red bricks, which are laid with a 50 mm indent from the previous row towards the center. That is, it turns out to be a rectangle of the same size around the perimeter as the entire main structure of the furnace.
	The 30th row of the structure is the first row of the mounted chimney pipe. It consists of 5 red bricks. In the upper part of this row, cutouts with a depth of 10 mm are made - this will be a seat for the main chimney valve, having a size of 250x130 mm. When the place is ready, a valve structure is installed in it on a clay mortar.
	31st row - the second row of pipe closes the installed valve. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Next, the chimney pipe is laid out upward.

The diagram below shows the flow of heated air through the vertical smoke exhaust channels, with the help of which the entire brick structure, including the oven, is heated.

Read in the article

Installation nuances

Foundation. Must be located below floor level. These are two rows of bricks with slightly widened seams (but not more than 13mm). Hydro- and thermal insulation. Basalt cardboard (3 layers) works well.

Fire safety. The distance from the smoke duct to walls made of flammable materials is at least 37 cm. And this wall should not contain:

• communications;
• electrical wiring;
• gas pipeline;
• water supply

To avoid making such an indentation, you can make a brick wall between the stove and the wall. The laying of Swedish stoves should end 35 cm before reaching the ceiling. The side on which the combustion doors are located must be at least 120 cm from the nearest wall.

Swedish stove with wall installation

Firebox. Its walls must be made of fireclay bricks.

Floors. It is better to leave a small gap between the pipe and the ceilings. So that there is no pressure on the stove laying if the house suddenly shrinks. The resulting gap is closed with insulation.

Many summer residents do not dare to decorate their country house with a stove, citing the fact that no one lives there in winter. However, during the off-season, problems often arise with heating the house. A brick stove for a summer cottage with your own hands is a very real option to save money and get complete comfort.

How to assemble a stove long burning with your own hands, see here. Drawings and technical nuances during construction.

The compact Buleryan stove is quite suitable for heating country house. In this article http://microklimat.pro/otopitelnoe-oborudovanie/pechi/buleryan-svoimi-rukami.html you will find step-by-step assembly instructions, and also learn about the types of its execution.

Furnace construction procedure

The layout of the stove in question is carried out in accordance with the order. This, as already noted, is a special diagram on which the order of laying out each row of the structure is indicated. There are standard procedures. If you do not have the skills to lay out ovens, it is strongly recommended to use one of the standard schemes.

A well-designed order will allow you to significantly reduce the time and money spent on stove construction. The work will be carried out in a precise and easy to understand manner to ensure maximum efficiency.

Having figured out the order of the Swedish stove before the start of construction, you will be able to lay out the unit yourself, without involving third-party craftsmen in the work and without spending money on paying for their labor.

The detailed order additionally indicates which materials should be used and at what stage of the work.

Study the proposed order and additionally pay attention to the following points:

• The design of the Swedish stove includes a blower. This point must be remembered in the process of independently arranging the stove;
• The first row of bricks must be laid perfectly evenly. Any displacements will lead to various violations that will negatively affect the quality and reliability of the finished furnace unit. To check the evenness of the masonry, use a building level;
• The correctness of the angles must be checked - they must be strictly 90 degrees. Check the angles using a suitable tool called a square.

The reliability, efficiency and durability of a Swedish oven largely depends on the correct layout of the first row; remember this.

Where to install the stove

A Swedish stove with a stove will fit well between two adjacent rooms, for example, as a separation between the kitchen and the living room. The part where the stove and oven will be located goes into the kitchen, and the back part, where you can equip a seating area and even a fireplace, goes into the living room. Thus, you will get a Swedish stove with a stove bench.

In principle, the Swedish stove can be installed anywhere in the room where heating, cooking, and also the addition of a decorative element are required. In cases where the cooking function is not required, you can consider the stove option as a decorative element and build a structure, for example, together with a fireplace and decorate it with finishing material, for example, natural stone.

Thus, this design is a fairly practical option, since when using a stove for cooking, the generated heat will not be wasted, but will be spent on heating the room.

Semicircular Dutch oven

Swedish stove made of concrete in a country house

Swede cap

In furnace manuals (not many, however), the furnace hood is sometimes defined as the part of it into which flue gases enter from below and exit from below. True, but this is just the tip of the iceberg. The role of the hood in the furnace is twofold.

Firstly, under the arch of the bell, gaseous fuel particles are retained and burn out, increasing the efficiency and heat transfer of the furnace. To perform this function properly, the roof arch must be arched, i.e. rounded. Under a flat roof, 100% afterburning cannot be achieved.

Secondly, the exit of the firebox into the bell is made in the form of a tapering nozzle - a heil. The mouth of the hail (its upper cut) is located HORIZONTALLY, although the channel of the hail can also be inclined. This gives rise to the so-called gas view: heavy cold air cannot pass under the hood, like water cannot pass into the hatch of a diving bell-caisson. If you don’t close the standard view after heating (which 100% saves you from burning out), then the stove will slowly cool down as if nothing had happened.

If the mouth of the hill is inclined, local convection immediately develops, as if cold were drawn from the crack under the door. The tilted caisson floods with water, causing it to capsize and sink - submariners have many scary stories about this - and the furnace with the inclined mouth of the hail quickly cools down when the view is open.

Now let's get back to the Swede. From the diagram at the beginning it is clear that the hood, as such, is simply nowhere to be installed - there is a stove with a drying niche. Afterburning of the fuel is ensured in a different way, and the combustion part is connected to the smoke circulation by a conventional vent with a vertical cut. It may be possible to reconfigure everything and get a bell-type stove with a hob, but its thermo- and gas dynamics will be completely different. Perhaps such a hypothetical stove will turn out better than the Swedish one, but it will no longer be Swedish.

"Two-bell Swede"

For an example, see fig. “Hilo” is highlighted with a red gradient. Two seemingly caps are also visible, but where is the mouth with a horizontal cut? The caps here are simply expansion chambers without any possibility of arranging a gas view. If such a “two-cap Swede” retains heat with the view open, then the cannon can fire from around the corner. Because a gun shell in flight describes a curved trajectory, artillerymen know.

Swedish heating and cooking stove project

Before you start work, here are some tips from a stove maker on laying Swedish stoves with your own hands:

1. Before starting work, print out the order on a printer and, in order not to get confused, when laying out the next row, circle or cross it out on the plan.
2. When laying the foundation, it is very important to check its level for horizontalness. However, you need to periodically check all further rows with the level.
3. Each brick is dipped in water for 15 seconds before being laid. But you can’t soak the bricks!
4. Starting a new row, lay all its bricks in place without mortar, check the dimensions, adjust, and only then lay out the row.
5. The grinder cuts the bricks of the desired shape very smoothly, but this creates a lot of dust, so it is better to prepare all the halves and quarters in advance in the open air.

Arrangement diagram for a Swedish heating and cooking stove with an oven

Let's consider the order of a brick Swedish stove with an oven with your own hands.

• 1 row. Solid (28 red bricks).
• 2nd row. Duplicate (if in the previous row all the bricks were whole, then here there are many halves and ¾).
• 3rd row. They are marked with bricks: on the left is the ash chamber, on the right is the space under the oven (a quarter of a refractory brick is laid here) and in the background are vertical channels. Doors are installed: ash pan (25 x 14 cm), three for cleaning (14 x 14). Several bricks are installed on an edge. Red brick - 19 pcs.
• 4 row. Vertical channels are still combined. The ash chamber is being expanded. Half a refractory brick is placed in the space under the oven. 14.5 red bricks in a row.
• 5 row. The doors of all channels and chambers are blocked. The ash chamber is lined with refractory bricks (this will be the bottom of the firebox). An opening is left for the grate (a corner is cut around the perimeter of the hole, into which the grate is placed). 16 red + 8 fireclay bricks.
• 6th row. The firebox door is installed and the vertical channels are separated. Between the firebox and the oven there is a wall the size of a quarter of a refractory brick. The oven is being installed. 13 red + 3.5 fireproof.
• 7th row. Duplicate.
• 8 row. The fireproof seals off the entrance to the channel behind the oven. 13 red + 5 fireproof.
• 9 row. Two bricks are laid above the firebox door, one of which is cut obliquely from below, and the other from above. 13.5 red + 5 fireproof.
• 10 row. The oven door is closed in a similar manner to the previous row. The wall between the firebox and the oven is not laid out. A corner is selected in the bricks for installing the slab. A corner (1 m 20 cm long) is installed on the front part of the stove. 15 red, 4.5 fireproof.
• 11 row. A cooking chamber is formed. 16.5 red.
• 12 - 15 row. Duplicate.
• 16th row. Preparing to cover the cooking chamber. A 70 cm is placed in the front part. corner, and above the camera there are three corners of 90.5 cm each. 14.5 red.
• 17th row. The cooking chamber is tightly closed, leaving only an exhaust hole the size of half a brick. 25.5 red.
• 18th row. Duplicate. Another corner is being installed. 25 red.
• 19 row. Expandable: exhaust duct, drying chambers, vertical channels. 16 red.
• 20, 21 row. Duplicate.
• 22 row. The smaller drying chamber is covered with a steel plate 19 x 34 cm. 16 red.
• 23 row. A place for the valve is cut out above the ventilation hole. valve 13 x 13 cm. 17 red.
• 24 row. Two vertical channels behind the oven are combined. 15.5 red.
• 25 row. The steam exhaust channel is combined with a vertical channel behind it. 15.5 red.
• 26 row. All cameras and channels are being expanded. 90.5 cm is installed in the front part. corner. Two strips of 65 cm each are laid above the drying chamber. An angle is cut out in a large steel sheet (80 x 90.5) to the size of the corner vertical channel. A sheet is laid, covering the entire surface of the oven, including the two channels behind the oven. A distance of half a brick is left uncovered on all sides.
• 27 row. Solid, covering the entire area except the vertical channel. On all sides, the brick now “overhangs” the previous rows by 2.5 cm. 32 red.
• 28 row. Another continuous row, the bricks “overhang” even more on all sides (by another 2.5 cm). 37 red.
• 29 row. Continuous row, original oven size. 26.5 red. The furnace body is complete.
• Row 30 The base of the pipe is formed. A corner is cut out of the bricks to the size of the smoke valve. The valve is installed. 5 red.
• Row 31 and beyond. Pipe extension.

Used oil is an excellent type of fuel; besides, waste oil can save a lot of money when heating a room. Do it yourself oven using waste oil. manufacturing of stoves, operating rules, as well as the pros and cons of use.

Read this article about using an induction furnace to heat a room.

What is needed to build a heating device

The oven, which is offered for production, has a width of 1020 mm, a height of 2170 mm and a depth of 880 mm. The choice of these parameters is determined by the size of standard bricks - when laying the unit, you will not have to look for a half or three-quarter piece again, which significantly reduces construction time. The principle of multiplying the dimensions of the furnace with the dimensions of the red brick is recommended to be used when changing its proportions to suit your own needs.

During the laying process you will need both simple red and fire-resistant fireclay bricks

By the way, in Scandinavian countries entire kits are produced for the construction of stoves of any size. This “constructor” includes everything you need, including the mixture for preparing the solution. We will be able to save a little, since from the list of necessary materials given below, a thrifty and thrifty owner will always have something on hand. So, here is a list of what you will need:

• 500–700 pcs. high-quality red brick of grade M-150 and higher, which must undergo good firing and not have foreign inclusions greater than those required by GOST;
• refractory fireclay brick brand ША-8 (its dimensions correspond to red brick, which will facilitate installation);
• combustion and blower doors - 1 pc. each;
• cleaning doors - 4 pcs.;
• pre-furnace sheet with a thickness of 0.5 to 2 mm;
• oven;
• grate;
• cast iron two-burner stove;
• metal corner with a shelf of at least 40 mm;
• exhaust valve;
• sheet steel;
• cement;
• sand;
• construction mesh for reinforcement;
• tamping;
• boards for formwork;
• rule at least 1 m long;
• fire-resistant masonry mixture (in extreme cases, it can be replaced with a mixture of clay and sand);
• asbestos or basalt sealant.

Furnace casting has a decisive influence on the appearance of the furnace, so why not use the original developments of foundry designers when choosing it?

Tools that will be needed to prepare the solution and actually construct the Swedish stove:

• construction hammer-pick;
• trowel;
• wooden or rubber mallet;
• jointing;
• construction level;
• square;
• cord and plumb line;
• roulette;
• shovel;
• containers for solution.

You can’t do without a convenient trowel during the construction process.

Classic Swedish oven as opposed to the Dutch oven tiles or not covered with tiles. However, nothing prevents you from decorating the stove at your own discretion, if brickwork does not fit into the interior design.

Materials

Over the course of geological history, Sweden has developed rich deposits of excellent fireclay clay based on aluminosilicates, so the Swedish stove was designed taking into account the availability of high-quality fireclay bricks. It is this that makes it possible to develop such a high temperature in the firebox that is necessary for complete afterburning of the fuel under conditions of active heat extraction by the oven.

Fireclay brick

It would be most correct to line the entire firebox with fireclay bricks, starting with the 3rd row and ending with the one laid on top of the slab. But in this case, the stove will turn out to be too expensive - due to the high cost of this material. Therefore, fireclay is usually used only for lining the walls of the firebox from the inside.

Other elements of the chamber part should be laid out of stove bricks (red ceramic solid) grade M200

It is important that the edges of all ½ or ¾ brick blocks are smooth, so they cannot be prepared using a pick-hammer. You need to either cut it with a grinder or purchase it ready-made

Kiln solid brick

A channel convector can be built from ordinary brick: since the afterburning of gases occurs in the chamber part, they enter here at a temperature below 800 degrees.

The solution is mixed using a special type of clay - ordinary clay is not suitable. As a rule, marl is used.

You will also need fireclay clay - the mortar for fireclay bricks will be mixed from it.

Fireclay clay

Mountain sand should be used, which is characterized by a minimum of organic impurities and an angular granule shape. A solution prepared on smooth river sand will quickly crack.

For the construction of a channel convector, a conventional cement-sand mortar is used.

High thermal loads place special demands on the combustion door. An inexpensive model made of sheet steel using the stamping method will quickly become loose. It is better to install a cast iron door with fasteners that are clamped between the bricks.

Stove door: cast iron

If you nevertheless decide to use a stamped door, you need to equip it with such fasteners yourself: two pieces of steel wire (annealed) with a diameter of 3–4 mm and a length of 50–70 mm are welded to each corner of the frame. During installation, these “antennae” are spread apart so that their ends are 40–50 mm apart from each other, and placed in the seams. On top of the stamped door you need to arrange an overlap of a steel angle or strip.

Door installation

Products and materials should be purchased according to the following specifications:

1. Kiln brick M200: 717 pcs. (excluding chimney).
2. Fireclay brick, grade Ш8: 154 pcs.
3. Asbestos cord.
4. Pieces of equal-flange steel angle 50x5 mm, length 1020–1030 mm: 2 pcs.
5. Pieces of steel strip 50x5 mm: 3 pcs. 920 mm long, 2 pcs. 54 mm long, 2 pcs. 48 mm long.
6. Grate with dimensions 200x300 mm.
7. Door for the firebox, size - 250x210 mm.
8. Blower door, size - 140x140 mm.
9. Cleaning doors size 140x140 mm: 8 pcs.
10. Oven with dimensions 450x360x300 mm.
11. Chimney dampers size 250x130 mm: 3 pcs.
12. Cooking plate dimensions 710x410 mm.
13. Fireplace grate 690–700 mm long. In the absence of a purchased one, you can weld it from a steel rod.
14. Material for installing a fireproof coating in front of the furnace: steel sheet with a thickness of 1.5 mm or ceramic tiles.

The floor must be protected within a radius of 1.2 m from the center of the fire door.

Swede heating and cooking stoves

Heating and cooking stoves of this type have a fairly simple, and at the same time, well-thought-out design. Such stoves are usually designed for two rooms at the same time. In this case, the front part with the combustion and hob surface faces the kitchen or dining room, and the back side is intended to heat the adjacent room. This could be a bedroom, a living room, and so on. The Swedish stove works according to a simple principle, which becomes clear after examining its structure. A standard Swedish stove consists primarily of a combustion chamber. A hob, made primarily of cast iron, is installed on the side above the combustion chamber. The stove has special burners with an adjustable diameter for installing containers used for heating water or cooking. After passing under the hob, incompletely burned gases enter a special chimney system. The chimney in a Swedish stove is designed in such a way that hot air lingers in it for as long as possible before escaping into the atmosphere. Due to this, effective heating of all the walls of the furnace is achieved, which then gradually releases the accumulated heat into the room.

Design Features

The classic Swedish stove, shown in the cross-sectional diagram, consists of the following elements:

• a firebox and an ash chamber located underneath it;
• cast iron hob;
• oven installed on the same level with the grate;
• above the stove there is a niche for drying things; if desired, it can be divided into several small compartments - stoves;
• a system of vertical channels (smoke circulation) occupies the entire rear part of the heater.

There are 2 indispensable attributes by which the Swede can be unmistakably distinguished from other designs found on the Internet and technical literature. Firstly, this stove does not exist without an oven, and secondly, it always has a network of 3 smoke circuits in the rear.

Reference. Thanks to its successful design, the Swedish stove became the basis for the development of more complex and efficient heat sources. An example is a two-bell heater without an oven by A. Batsulin or a stove with a fireplace in the back by A. Ryazankin, shown in the photo.

A traditional Swedish stove works like this: when wood burns in the firebox, infrared heat from the flame is transferred to the hob, and from it to the air in the room. The other part of the heat, together with the combustion products, passes through the vertical partition, washes the oven body, and then rushes through the passage in the lower part into the channel system. There, the flue gases make 3 revolutions, heating the solid brickwork of the rear wall, and are thrown out through the chimney.

The front niche, located at the top, receives heat from 2 sides - below from the stove and behind from the smoke circulation. Thanks to this distribution and the developed system of heat removal from flue gases, the efficiency of the heating unit reaches 60%. See the video for the design and construction procedure of the classic Swede:

masonry of the stove Swedish buslaeva masonry order

At the time of writing this article in the spring of 2013, Shvedka type stoves are No. 1 in the ranking of Russian stove makers, although objectively this is of course fundamentally wrong, I will write about this in more detail at the end of this article. Moreover, from the huge variety of their varieties, you can really find tested working diagram You can either from familiar stove makers, or on a trusted website. I’ll say right away that the “Swedish” model presented in the article was folded by me quite recently and showed itself only with positive side, firstly, it turned out to be quite effective in terms of design, and secondly, with consistently good draft, it stored heat in a country cottage with an area of ​​40 meters up to 2 days after firing. In addition, the onset of heat radiation also occurred within the first 15 minutes of the firebox, while the temperature of the oven and hob were beyond praise.

osnovaremonta.ru

Many stove makers of the old school, like me, were always taught the Swedish order of laying bricks on the edge (as if it was beautiful this way and the customers liked it to warm up quickly), time has shown the opposite: laying a stove in the brick floor is much easier to do, more durable and safer to use. For this reason, I posted the drawings of just such a thick-walled “Swedish” and not the old versions of quick heating in 1/4 bricks.

Order drawings of the Shvedka furnace of the K.Ya. Buslaev system

I know of more than 12 different designs for Swedish stoves, of which I personally put together 7. Of these seven, the best for me is the “Swedish”, developed by K.Ya. Buslaev. Laying any Swede is not an easy task with a complex smoke circulation system and increased requirements for proportions and seam dressing. And there can be no mistake here, otherwise there is either a problem with traction or a crazy consumption of bricks for battle 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4, this is not for you simple brick kitchen stove-stove with which you can replay all 3 times in a day. For this reason, I highly recommend using the proven scheme of this particular Buslaev furnace.

osnovaremonta.ru

The furnace is laid mainly with bricks on edge; all the bricks are first soaked in water to achieve a minimum thickness of the seams. Uneven bricks must be pressed together. The size of Shvedka Buslaev is 1160x900 mm, height without pipe is 2100 mm, heat output is 5 kW. The oven is also equipped with a cast iron stove 560x965 mm, a samovar and an oven 600x400x350 mm. A separate foundation is required for the furnace. It has been accurately verified despite the complex five-channel smoke circulation due to careful calculation of the furnace layout, as when firing with gas, condensation does not form at the outlet of the pipe. The mode of self-cleaning and simple repair of the stove has also been thought out.

osnovaremonta.ru

Swedish stove laying requires: about 300 kg of clay-sand mortar and 550 bricks of standard size 250x120x65 A solid foundation is required for the swedish, the brick must be soaked. The furnace is laid in the brick floor (120 mm) up to the 11th row inclusive, then brick on edge (65 mm)

Materials for masonry “Swedish” K.Ya. Buslaeva.

1. 1. - fire door, 21x25 cm - 1 piece;
   2. - blower door, 14x25 cm - 1 piece;
   3. -cleaning door, 12x12 cm - 3 pcs;
   4. - red brick - 550 pcs;
   5. - oven 45x25x29 cm - 1 piece;
   6. - grate 20x30 cm - 1 piece;
   7. - valve 25x13 cm - 1 piece;
   8. - cast iron stove with 2 burners, 41x71 cm - 1 piece;
   9. - hood damper 13x13 cm - 1 piece;
   10. - fireclay brick SHA-8-30 pcs;
   11. - steel corner 45 x 45 x 700 – 1 piece;
   12. - steel corner 45 x 45 x 905 – 5 pcs;
   13. - steel strip 50 x 5 x 650 – 2 pcs;
   14. - drying shelf 190 x 340 – 1 piece;
   15. - drying chamber covering sheet 800 x 905 – 1 pc.
   16. - pre-furnace sheet 500 x 700 mm – 1 pc.

Just in case, I’ll write that the glory of the Swedes is somewhat exaggerated; they are inferior to modern bell-type furnaces in efficiency and heat capacity, besides Tavo there are designs that are similar but more improved, for example Moskvichka stove You can also look for a selection in the section ready-made diagrams of 20 furnaces .

Swede stove turnkey price in Moscow and the Moscow region

turnkey Swedish oven price

Be sure to read my articles:

Popular barbecue with cauldron
Overview of BBQ areas
Construction of the BBQ area

Dear friends. Separately, I would like to dwell on the service and turnkey Swedish oven price. Often the customer asks if we carry out turnkey masonry work. The term “turnkey” itself means that you pay money and get results. This should include work on the foundation, the purchase of materials and the construction work.
But this is only the first moment. The cost of materials will definitely be inflated - I often communicate with construction crews and foremen at construction sites where we work

laying barbecue complexes,

and we know that many foremen and builders have unspoken agreements with sellers of building materials. When a builder comes to the store, he will be given the material with any receipt. This means that the builder will be in the clear before you, since he has accounted for your receipts. But in fact, he put the difference between the store price and the price that the store indicated on the receipt in his pocket.
Let's move on: constructing a foundation for the furnace. These works are quite simple, and personally I (like any other stove maker) would prefer to do

In a whole day I will earn an order of magnitude more by building a furnace than by pouring a foundation. That is why all the stove makers who will offer you turnkey Swedish oven price- will definitely increase the cost of foundation installation services.
I don’t recommend Turnkey Construction to you. How will work with me work: after agreeing on the task, I draw up a list of materials, and you independently purchase bricks, clay, and fittings. It’s difficult to make a mistake here, I describe everything in detail, moreover, I’m always in touch and will answer you if you are in the construction market. Brick from a certain factory is difficult to counterfeit - there are many Lode brick dealers in Moscow and the Moscow region. This way you will be absolutely sure that you will not overpay for materials - you can go to absolutely any construction company that is closer to your site.
Purchase materials yourself. This will save you 10-15% of the amount quoted by the turnkey stove maker
Any local handyman can pour the foundation. Of course, I draw up technical specifications for these workers - and under your control they carry out this work. It will definitely cost less than from a stove maker. But it’s simply inconvenient for me to do such work: I need to pour the foundation, then leave to let it settle, then come again to lay out the stove.

To the origins of the popularity of Swedish cooking stoves

The classic Swedish stove is both beautiful and functional

According to existing legend, the first Swedish stove was built in Russia by soldiers who were captured during one of the battles Northern War, which was started by the Swedish king Charles XII back in 1700. However, this is nothing more than a myth, since there is documentary evidence that the heating device, known in our country as the “Swedish”, was developed in a distant northern country in 1767. The order of the Academy of Sciences was issued by King Adolf Frederick of Holstein-Gottorp. Perhaps this is what contributed to the preservation of historical materials about the development of a new wood-burning stove. The reasons that prompted the King of Sweden to personally deal with such mundane issues were quite prosaic. The fact is that the dense forests that the Swedes were so proud of in the Middle Ages had already been thoroughly cut down by this time - the wood was actively used in military and housing construction, and the Swedes simply did not know any other fuel at that time. Dwellings ordinary people Most often they were heated by hastily built brick fireplaces that required constant fire. By the way, the stoves of the nobility were also not particularly economical - at best, they used voluminous “Dutch stoves”, which at that time were very gluttonous.

Using the proverb that has survived to this day that “everything new is a well-forgotten old,” Swedish scientists did not hesitate for a long time with the design. The basis was a well-studied Dutch oven, which was carefully remodeled during the work.

The changes primarily affected functionality - the “Swedish” was equipped with a pita for cooking, an oven and practical niches, one of which was intended for drying clothes, and the other was used to ensure that cooked food remained warm all day. This arrangement was extremely convenient for small houses, since the stove, installed in the wall between the kitchen and the room, provided all the heating needs of an ordinary family.

The high functionality of the Swede can be complemented by a comfortable and warm bed

Initially, several modifications of Swedish stoves were developed, which, with minor changes, have survived to this day:

• heating and cooking unit with only one stove;
• Swedish with stove and oven;
• a wood-burning heating device equipped with a stove, an oven (one or two) and a water heating tank;
• double-sided stove-fireplace - the cooking part of the stove is located in the kitchen, and the decorative part opens into the hall or living room;
• Swede with a couch.

In addition, depending on personal wishes, the stove, as before, may have one or two niches located above the stove.

Swedish stove with fireplace

The main design parameters were calculated by Swedish scientists so accurately that they have remained virtually unchanged for several centuries. We can say with complete confidence that it is the correct calculation and well-thought-out design of the Swede that are the root cause of all its advantages:

• compact dimensions;
• functional and practical design;
• high efficiency and heat transfer;
• fast heating thanks to simple and effective solutions in the heat exchange part of the unit;
• versatility;
• undemanding to fuel - you can burn any type of solid fuel, from wood shavings and reeds to coal;
• variability of the heating device - its functionality and design can be changed according to your preferences and needs;
• ease of operation and maintenance;
• efficiency;
• possibility of building with your own hands.

The disadvantages of the “Swedish” are the same as those of other channel stoves. First of all, this is rapid cooling when the valve is not closed, as well as the need to periodically clean the channels of the unit from soot. In addition, a wood-burning heat generator places increased demands on construction technology - only new, high-quality brick is suitable for making a “Swede”, and in the process of work, increased concentration, accuracy and maximum efficiency will be required.

Moskvichka stove

There is another type of similar stove with an oven. This is some answer to all foreign similar stoves, which was created by a domestic inventor Victor Pilyush. The stove with the Russian name “Moskvichka” is a universal device with which you can not only heat a room, but also use it as a stove for cooking. V. Pilyush invented 4 types of such stoves. Their production can be carried out in 20 sizes.

The inventor managed to form the structure in such a way that the entire structure works to accumulate heat. This happens due to the heating channel, which is located below.

In the Moskvichka stove, it is possible to install a firebox in two versions:

1. The firebox operates at space heating .
2. The firebox is working not only for heating, but also for cooking.

It is worth noting that in the oven of this oven you can adjust the temperature.

Furnace structure

If Russian and Dutch stoves are considered to be the product of folk ingenuity, then the “Swedish” stove has a well-defined team of authors. It was headed by academicians of the Swedish Academy of Sciences K. Konstedt and F. Wörd. The then leadership of the country set a task for the developers: to create a stove that would be better adapted to the cold and humid local climate and fuel shortages than the most common “Dutch stove” in Europe at that time. In addition, the new unit had to be compact in size (the lack of land does not allow the Swedes to build too spacious houses) and be as simple and inexpensive as possible.

What we got in the end consists of two parts: one is a chamber oven, in which the chamber, blown by hot flue gases, is also an oven; the second is a duct convector from a Dutch oven stretched to the sides and placed behind the first part. It seems like nothing complicated, but it took a long time and painstakingly to select and calculate the parameters at which the efficiency of the unit, heating rate and heat transfer would be maximum.

Swedish oven diagram

Let's look at the technical features:

1. The purpose of the chamber part, in addition to cooking, is to absorb the very first heat generated during the combustion of light fractions of coal and firewood. This is the first difference from the “Dutch”: in it this heat was almost completely thrown out into the chimney, since the brick did not have time to absorb it due to its low thermal conductivity.
2. The Dutch oven did not have a zone for afterburning such fractions. The “Swedish” was equipped with a kind of hood, in which the gases completely burn out, and for the best absorption of thermal energy, a large metal oven was installed into the brick body of the stove (item 1). Due to the high thermal conductivity of steel, it heats up almost instantly, which made the effect of forced heating possible.
3. If the cooking niche with the stove installed in it (item 2) is closed with a wooden damper, then the dishes prepared for breakfast and left on the stove will still be warm in the morning. They can be quickly reheated in the oven, which will heat up almost simultaneously with the start of the morning heating.
4. The oven was also equipped with a spacious drying niche (item 3), in which a couple of sets of very wet clothes can be completely dried overnight.
5. In order to simplify and reduce the cost of the design of the hilo, which is a rather complex element, Swedish engineers did not use it. A transfer window was simply installed under the oven. This is precisely the reason for the inability of the “Swede” to retain heat for a long time after heating with the view open.
6. The role of a heat accumulator is played by a vertically elongated channel convector installed behind the chamber furnace. It is designed according to the Dutch principle: inside there is a labyrinth of channels through which flue gases pass before entering the chimney. Here the heat generated during combustion and smoldering of the main mass of fuel is absorbed.

Initially, the channels were made vertical. At the same time, the heating of the lower part of the furnace deteriorated, but the fuel burned to a more complete extent. In the modification with a horizontal arrangement of channels, the bottom is heated much better, but the stove quickly becomes overgrown with soot (a sign of incomplete combustion of fuel). In general, manipulations with the channel part, which does not have any clever thermal devices, do not affect the characteristics of the stove in any way. You can safely vary its size and position relative to the chamber part, so that it becomes possible to heat 3 rooms.

Swedish oven placement option

“Swedish” can simultaneously take on the function of preparing hot water for domestic needs. A heat exchanger in the form of a curved pipe should be installed in the oven - here it will not affect the performance of the oven in any way. The storage tank is placed either in a drying niche or on the roof.

The vaults in the Swedish kiln are made not in the form of arches, but with the help of ceilings made of rolled steel - corners and strips. Typically, stove makers try to avoid introducing metal elements into the masonry - due to the significant difference in the values ​​of the coefficients of thermal expansion of brick and metal.

• the arched vault significantly increases the height of the stove, which was unacceptable for low Swedish ceilings;
• it leads to a noticeable increase in the cost of the design, since it is a rather complex unit.

As time has shown, the coexistence of brick and steel in a Swedish kiln is quite possible, unless there is direct contact between them: both materials should always be separated by a 6 mm wide seam filled with mortar.

Operating principle and design of the Swedish oven

The compact dimensions of the stove (1020x885x2030mm) allow it to be placed in a small country house or dacha. But despite its small size, these dimensions of a Swedish stove are enough to effectively heat a room of 30-35 square meters.

Depending on the type and type of Swede, the designs will vary. So, for example, to equip a Swede with a sunbed, it is necessary to equip horizontal channels with a winter/summer mode. Thanks to a special valve, which is installed in a straight vertical channel, it is possible to block the latter.

In winter, such a valve closes, and the heat moves in a large circle, warming up the entire stove along with the sunbed. And in the summer, the damper opens a direct outlet for warm air into a vertical pipe through which the gases escape outside. This makes it possible to use only the hob and oven without heating the room.

Swedish stove

The “Dutch” design was taken as the basis for the Swedish stove. This model was already very popular, but it did not allow for effective heating of the room, and the fuel consumption was too high.

Taking into account the harsh climate of Scandinavia, the developers improved the “Dutch” model and added a hob with an oven. Thus, elements were added not only for cooking, but also for heating water and drying clothes.

Whatever the design of the stove - with a sunbed, with an oven or just a stove - the principle of its operation will be the same: channel, like the “Dutch”.

Swedish: scheme

The metal oven is located on the side of the firebox and is designed to directly transfer heat into the room. But cooking and baking is not the main function of the oven.

After lighting the wood, it warms up in literally 5 minutes. The figure shows why the oven heats up so quickly.

Swedish design

Before going down, combustion products heat the oven in the top and sides. On the other hand, the stove is heated by the firebox. The stove warms up from the firebox, heating the room itself.

The upper part was originally designed for the purpose of drying clothes; it is heated by the stove and the ducts running behind it. The channels, going around the entire oven, go into vertical channels and transfer heat to things that are hung out to dry.

How the Swedish oven works

The design of the Swedish stove is the result of improved engineering. Unlike Russian and Dutch stoves, it has a more complex device with high efficiency. It has significantly greater thermal power and heat transfer.

If we take the same amount of material and fold the “Dutch”, we will get a power of 2500 kcal/hour, while the Swede will produce all 3500 kcal/hour. In this case, it will be enough to lay only 2 portions of firewood per day to keep the house warm.

Swedish woman in a modern interior

If in Scandinavia the Swedes were traditionally installed between the kitchen and the bedroom so that on a cold winter night it would warm the room, today in stylish and modern houses you can increasingly find a stone structure that stands between the living room and the kitchen.

At the same time, it performs a double function: it serves for cooking and is the main decorative decoration of the living room. On one side it can be equipped with an oven, and on the other with an open fireplace, decorated with an openwork forged damper.

Swede with fireplace

The high efficiency and efficiency of the stove is due to a complex smoke exhaust system, which allows rational use of the heat generated by burning wood. One of the undeniable advantages of the design is the ability to create winter and summer versions of the stove.

The fact is that each type has its own smoke path. This makes it possible to cook food in summer without heating the room.

Many summer residents are familiar with the situation when, at the beginning of the heating season, when lighting the stove, the room begins to smoke. There is also a separate smoke exhaust system, which allows you to effectively use the stove with different functions in both winter and summer.

Structural and functional features

The main advantage of a Swedish brick stove is its compactness - even “tiny” ones can cope with the maintenance of residential premises. In this model, combustion products are delivered to the pipe through a channel chimney. Bell elements located above the drying chamber and firebox are responsible for heat exchange. If a Swedish stove is installed with an oven, the latter is placed on the same level as the firebox, which ensures quick heating.

You can bake a Swedish stove with your own hands without specialized qualifications, you just need to be careful

Hob

A Swedish stove with a stove is a traditional configuration; it involves the use of a thick cast iron plate, in which there are 2 lockable burners. Typically, such slabs have standard dimensions of 410x710 mm. The height of the firebox varies between 280-330 mm, the width reaches 350 mm, and the length reaches 550 mm.

Gas channel system

The channels can be horizontally or vertically oriented; the smoke passing through them heats up the structure, and the room is heated from its walls. This is an economical and highly efficient system: the heat that seeps through the pipe in conventional Russian stoves is here directed directly to heating.

If the flue channels in a Swedish heating stove are horizontal, the walls of the structure are heated more evenly. But in this case, more cleaning holes with molded doors will have to be introduced into the system, which will increase the final cost of the masonry.

Vertically located channels can function perfectly with one technical hatch, but here another problem arises - uneven heating of the furnace. The shield in the first channel, into which combustion products are immediately directed, becomes hot faster compared to the third (output). That is, one room may be cooler than another.

The bell-type device works with one cleaning window, the surface of the furnace is evenly heated, and less bricks are required for construction. The unit cools down more slowly, since heat is retained in the upper part of the hoods, and ventilation from the doors is carried out only in the center.

Oven

The large volume of the cabinet allows you to prepare a wide range of dishes, it is convenient to use. The oven is made of cast iron; tin or sheet variations are not acceptable here; it will be needed not only for baking - the special design helps to quickly warm up the room immediately after kindling, if you open the door.

The oven in a Swedish oven is made of cast iron

The box is comparable in size to the size of the firebox; it is mounted in close proximity, but so as not to have direct contact with the flame. The optimal oven wall thickness is 4-6 mm.

Convenient extensions – a couch and a fireplace

Often the heating device is equipped with a fireplace on the front or back side (that is, it will be installed either in the kitchen or in the living room). The chimney can be combined or separate. In the first case, a single structure is formed, it is easier to assemble, and little material is needed. But you can heat it either with a stove or a fireplace. Separate chimneys are not as economical to build, but they allow you to use both heating methods at the same time.

Swede stoves with a stove bench are in great demand. This device is assembled from the back of the unit, its standard length is 7 bricks, width is 3 bricks. The smoke channels passing inside heat this podium when certain valves are opened. Typically, such oven models are not equipped with an oven.

Auxiliary shelves and niches

On the front side, 2 large shelves are built into Swedish models, both located above the hob. The lower shelf heats up more, the upper one uses only the heat transfer of the brick. If you close the niche opening with a wooden or metal door, a kind of low-temperature oven is formed.

Auxiliary shelves and niches in a Swedish oven are often used for drying berries and mushrooms

Simple models use straight horizontal floors. Arched structures look more interesting and can become the highlight of the interior, although they are difficult to assemble and increase the consumption of materials.

Furnace order

Furnace order

Before you start laying the stove yourself, complete a few simple preparatory steps.

First of all soak the brick. To do this, the bricks need to be dipped in clean water and left there for about a day. Water will fill the pores in the brick structure. Thanks to this, the building material will not absorb water from the clay solution in the future.

Prepare a clay solution. It will consist of ground clay, some sand and clean water. The specific ratio of components is selected in accordance with the characteristics of the clay.

It is important that the finished solution has normal plasticity and a uniform structure. On average, it takes about 20 liters of mortar to lay hundreds of bricks

1 row. It was previously noted that this row should be laid out exclusively at the building level with additional checking using a square. Lay out this row in continuous masonry. Inside, it is allowed to use halves of bricks.

2nd row. Lay out in the same pattern as the 1st row. Be careful and do everything in strict accordance with technology, because... the first two rows serve as the base of the furnace, which should be as reliable as possible.

3-4 rows. Continue laying, gradually forming an ash chamber. At the same stage of masonry, the door of the mentioned chamber is installed. Additionally, 3 doors for cleaning hatches and a door for the blower are installed. Place smoke vents on the reverse side of the swede. They are placed in a vertical position and communicate with the combustion chamber through a hole created during the laying out of the furnace.

5 row. Install the finished oven and place a grate of suitable size in it. Form a cover for the cleaning hatches and the blower door.

6-10 row. Lay out the walls of the firebox and oven chamber. A partition made of fire-resistant brick is laid between the combustion compartment and the oven. The brick must be laid on edge. The partition should be a row lower than the chamber itself. After the tenth row is ready, lay a standard steel corner and an additional cast iron slab on the front of the structure. To secure the corner, use steel wire and a 2-centimeter layer of clay mortar.

11 row. Completely complete the closure of the channel through which the cast iron plate and the right wall of the furnace are separated.

12-16 row. Lay out the cooking compartment and 3 vertical flues. Lay out chimney openings from fire-resistant bricks.

17-18 row. Form an overlap over the cooking compartment. To form the ceiling, use the sheet steel laid in the previous stages and a corner made of the same material.

Row 19-20. Attach 2 hatches to the front of the door structure for cleaning the gas exhaust channels.

Rows 21-28. Lay out the chimney ducts. Don't forget to re-tie your stitches. In the process of laying out the 27th row, install a convenient latch. Above the installed smoke damper, leave a technological hole through which the gas ducts will interface with the air ducts.

Row 29-30. Lay out the overlap of the chimney ducts. At this stage, the width of the masonry around the perimeter must be increased by 50 mm. Thanks to this expansion, a cornice will be formed.

31 row. Adjust the dimensions of the overlap to the structural dimensions of the 27th row.

32 row. Start laying out the chimney. The standard chimney design has dimensions of 130x250 mm.

At this point, the laying out of the oven can be considered complete. At the end, all that remains is to complete the installation of the chimney, and also, if desired, to finish the stove, for example, with paint or ceramic tiles. Additionally, you can buy a variety of accessories, for example, for storing fuel.

Shvedka stove (front view)

Shvedka stove

Shvedka stove

Shvedka stove

Shvedka stove

Shvedka stove

Shvedka stove (rear view)

Thus, there is nothing complicated about laying a Swedish stove yourself. A detailed order will help you quickly understand the specifics of the work and lay out the stove with your own hands. Follow the instructions, remember to check the evenness of the rows, and everything will work out.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself Swedish oven, ordering

What is remarkable about the Swedish stove

Swedish oven options

According to its purpose, the “Swedish” refers to heating and cooking stoves, and there is every reason to consider it the most successful among them. It is more convenient to cook on it than in a Russian oven, since the housewife does not have to bend over and use a grip. In addition to the hob, there is an oven in which you can prepare baked goods and quickly reheat dishes. And to top it all off, the classic “Swedish” has a niche designed for drying things.

The original model of the Swedish stove

The design of the stove allows its back side, which opens into the living room (the front part with the stove is located in the kitchen), to be equipped with a warm bench or fireplace.

In addition to functional ones, the “Swedish” also has technical advantages:

1. Fast warm-up.
2. Simple device and low cost. In this regard, the Swedish stove is comparable to the Dutch one, but has higher efficiency (60% versus 40%) and heat transfer (“Dutch” with a power of 2.9 kW and “Swedish” with a power of 4.1 kW have equal material consumption).
3. The presence of an oven, which, with the door open, within a few minutes after the start of the fire (even waste fuel can be used), provides forced infrared heating of the wet or frozen user.
4. Downward smoke circulation after the firebox, providing high-quality heating of the stove not only from above, but also from below.
5. The temperature of the flue gases in the channel part is low, due to which it can be built from ordinary bricks using cement-sand mortar.
6. Plastic. Strict canons have to be followed only when constructing the smaller, high-temperature part of the furnace. The rest can be adjusted to almost any home without loss of quality.
7. The ability to extract heat for preparing hot water without deteriorating the combustion mode in the furnace.
8. Possibility to “connect” the bed.

The listed advantages can be countered by the following disadvantages:

1. Due to the significant heat load, the high-temperature part of the furnace has to be built only from the highest quality materials. High demands are also placed on the quality of work (the craftsman must have sufficient experience).
2. If you forget to close the view after the fuel has completely burned out, the stove will cool down very quickly.
3. A foundation is required. This is due to the uneven load on individual parts of the furnace and its elongated shape.

Without a reliable foundation, the unit will be unstable.

How does a Swedish stove differ from other stoves?

Now the Swede is very often used in Russia and is considered a classic, although its current design was established not so long ago, somewhere at the end of the nineteenth century. In the homeland of this heating device, winters are no less severe, there is not too much space in living quarters, and zealous residents are accustomed to saving firewood.

The stove is part of the wall

The Swedish stove is designed for a small house with a simple layout (ideally a two-room house). Typically, the power of the heat generator is enough for buildings with an area of ​​30-50 square meters, provided that two fires are produced per day. The device, as a rule, is erected between the kitchen and the main room, that is, the stove plays the role of a partition. The firebox and ash door, valves, stove and niches are located in the kitchen (this is where the stove is controlled), and the rear plane with the smoke channels faces the room. They try to collect the Swede closer to the center of the house, only occasionally they place it near the outer wall or in the corner.

The shape of the Swedish stove resembles a vertically oriented block cabinet, which has a height of 2 meters, often it rises almost to the ceiling. The model is notable for its modest dimensions on the floor; its length rarely exceeds the threshold of 1300 mm, and its width is 900 mm. That is, we lose only 1 m2 in free space (instead of 3-4, as is the case with a Russian stove). Great potential is hidden in small dimensions; performance seems to be concentrated here. For example, if you make a Dutch brick from the same amount of brick, its thermal performance will be about a third lower. The efficiency of Swedish stoves is almost the same as that of a Russian stove, but they are less material-intensive and much easier to install.

With some preparation, Swedes can successfully install ovens with their own hands, even by non-professionals. Developers have plenty to choose from. Well-known domestic stove designers have developed many modifications that differ from each other both in size/power and layout.

Combined device developed on the basis of the Swedish

Important! Outstanding efficiency has back side medals – increased thermal loads and, as a result, special requirements for the quality of materials. For example, it is very desirable to use marl for the solution; the most reliable metal components should be used (cast doors, thick-walled oven boxes and lintels, etc.)

It is imperative to lay out the protected inner walls of the firebox from fireclay bricks - this fire-resistant core is not only not tied to the main masonry, but is also located indented from the ordinary red brick.

Types of Swedes

There are several popular types of Swedish oven.

• The stove in the form of a fireplace is designed in such a way that the hob opens into the kitchen, and the decorative part with the firebox and fireplace portal opens into the living room.
• Swedish, equipped with a sun lounger. This stove design is quite complex, but in winter it functions as a very cozy and warm bed.
• Swedish, equipped with a hob and oven. The back part of such a stove heats the room, and the functional front part is located in the kitchen.

The choice of stove design depends on the area of ​​the room and the functional tasks that it must solve. If the stove is needed exclusively for cooking in the country and is not intended to heat the house in winter, then you can opt for a compact design.

Swede with one plate

If the stove is installed as the main heating device, then it is better to choose a model that can heat several rooms at once.

It should be said that the Swedish stove design is an ideal option for a small country house, in which the owners live not only in the summer.

Of course, it is also suitable for a small cottage. But the Swede gets damp quickly enough, which means it requires constant use. Otherwise, it will have to be dried for a long time each time before putting it into operation, and this significantly reduces its efficiency.

With regular use, such a stove, equipped with a comfortable hob and a functional oven, will become an indispensable household assistant and will give warmth and comfort to the house.

Design and features of the Swedish oven

When developing the “Swedish”, the “Dutch” was taken as a basis; the latter at that time was already quite common and had proven itself well. But since the climate of the Scandinavian Peninsula is harsher than the European one, and there are fewer fuel reserves, the Dutch oven was thoroughly altered and adapted to its conditions, as a result of which the Swedish heating and cooking stove was born.

It partially retained the operating principle of the Dutch stove, but at the same time elements were added that allow you to cook food and dry clothes, and in different types of stove there is also a stove bench. We are talking about different types, since the Swedish stove can be modified and structurally changed, while maintaining the general concept. And the concept provides for a channel principle of operation, like the Dutch one, but with additional devices for heat extraction:

1. Metal oven.
2. Hob with niche.
3. Upper niche.

The photo below shows a diagram of a Swedish oven, in which listed elements are indicated by the corresponding numbers.

A metal oven is located on the side of the combustion chamber and is designed to take heat from it directly and transfer it to the room. Preparing baked goods is not the main function of the oven; literally 5 minutes after lighting it is already bursting with heat, as soon as you open the door. The diagram shows why this happens. The combustion products, before falling to the floor and leaving, heat the oven body from above and on the sides, and on the other side it is heated by the firebox. This design makes it possible to use any small fuel for heating the house and cooking.

The niche above the stove is heated directly from the combustion chamber, distributing warm air throughout the kitchen. The upper niche, originally designed for drying things, is heated from below by the stove and from the rear by the channels where combustion products pass. The latter, having gone around the oven, exit into a system of vertical channels and there transfer their heat to the body of the oven, after which they are thrown out through the chimney.

Due to the special structure of the smoke channels, the Swede will intensively heat the floors and the soil underneath, which is irrational. For this reason, the heating and cooking stove must be installed on a base with thermal insulation. Sheets of basalt cardboard 5 mm thick are perfect for it; they will need to be laid in three layers with a layer of aluminum foil as a reflective screen.

Placing a Swedish stove in a private house

Since the main heat of the flue gases is transferred to the back wall of the stove, it is customary to install it in the wall between the kitchen and bedroom (or living room). In some varieties of Swedes, a fireplace or a relatively small lounger is installed on the back side. The dimensions of the sun lounger in the Swedish version are 1800 x 660 mm, which is not enough for comfortable rest and sleep.

The Swedish heating and cooking stove with a deck differs from the usual design in the presence of horizontal channels and winter/summer operating modes. This is realized using an additional valve installed in a straight vertical channel. In winter, the valve closes and combustion products move in a large circle, through the horizontal flue ducts of the stove, after which they return to the chimney. In summer, the damper is open and there is a direct path into the vertical pipe, through which the flue gases simply flow out. This way, only the hob heats up.

Recommendations for construction and selection of materials

A Swedish stove, unlike a Dutch stove, cannot be built from waste or used materials, since the stove is carefully designed and designed for efficient work. Here it is recommended to use high-quality fireclay and red bricks. At the same time, to lay the combustion chamber, the solution must be mixed from fireclay clay; simple clay from a ravine will not work.

The rest of the masonry mortar also needs to be of high quality, from good clay of medium fat content. It should be stirred thoroughly so that no small lumps remain, until it reaches the consistency of sour cream. You can check the quality of the solution by dropping it from a trowel; a thin layer of material should remain on the surface of the tool.

It will not be a secret to anyone that, due to its weight, a Swedish brick stove requires a good foundation for construction. Such a foundation can be a reinforced concrete slab or a foundation cast from heavy concrete on compacted soil with a compacted backfill. Before starting construction of the stove, the new monolith requires at least 3 weeks to completely harden. Then a waterproofing material (roofing felt can be used) is placed on it, and the thermal insulation described above is placed on top.

The ordering diagram according to which a classic Swedish cooking stove is built is shown below.

Furnace laying diagram

By building this kind of stove, you will heat your house with a power of 5 kW, which is enough for 50 m2. Compared to the Dutch, this figure is 20-25% higher. This will require the following amount of products and materials:

• ceramic red brick grade 200 – 540 pcs;
• refractory brick – 30 pcs;
• ventilation door – 1 piece;
• equal angle corner 40 x 40 mm – 5.5 m;
• strip steel 50 x 5 mm – 1.4 m;
• galvanized steel sheet 0.6 mm thick – 2 m2;
• combustion door – 1 pc.

For homeowners interested in a Swede with a sun lounger and two operating modes, a diagram of the order is presented below.

Scheme of laying a stove with a stove bench

Here the work is much more complicated and cannot be trusted to just anyone; at least the experience of a professional mason is required, ideally a stove maker. The video will help you understand in detail the process of laying out the Swede with a bed.

Swedish oven with stove and oven

In the absence of gas heating, a Swedish stove can serve as a worthy analogue. It allows you not only to heat your house or cottage, but also to use the stove for cooking. Unlike the Russian stove, this stove has lower efficiency, but it heats up faster due to its small size. Most often, such a stove is placed in the wall between the kitchen and the living room, or the living room and the kitchen. If desired, such a stove can have an additional bench. The classic version is made of ceramic bricks, and the firebox is made of fireclay. A large oven is located on the side of the firebox. The oven heats up in the first minutes of the fire and helps improve the heating of the room.

Photo

The Swedish stove "Shvedka" can be visible, rough and weighty. Usually equipped with a stove and oven. Small decorative options are placed in the corner. The modern analogue is made from ceramic bricks and can be lined with soapstone magnesite. They can be installed in any convenient place. This design has a special storage cap, which helps burn fuel and increase the heat transfer of the stove. This oven consists of a lower, upper niche and a niche above the stove.

Catalog of stoves "Shvedok"

	Has a high level of efficiency. High degree of heat transfer, functionally adapted to cook food in the oven or on burners, of which there may be one or two.. It heats up quite quickly. The combustion process is regulated (by dampers). Can be done with “winter” and “summer” running.
	Swede oven 2 With good efficiency, it is small in size. Ovens of this type are multifunctional. Food is cooked on them, water is heated, various foods and clothes are dried. Rooms are heated with such stoves.. In addition, the Swede can be wall-mounted; angular; in the center of the room; built into the wall.
	This design can be: wall-mounted; angular; in the center of the room; built into the wall. Dimensions - 115 x 90 x cm. Weight 2000 kg. Heat output with two fireboxes per day is 1900 kcal/h. Power = 4.2 kW. Can heat a house up to 40 m2.
	Equipped with an oven, a stove with one or two burners, and an upper drying chamber. In this design, the firebox is located on one side. It is possible to move the combustion door (if the customer requests it) to the opposite side.
	By combining a stove and a heating stove into a single structure, you will get a device of this design. There is a firebox with a stove, an oven and a heat shield.
	Plate with shield 6 Design dimensions: 102 x 102 x 217 cm. Weight (including shield) - 2800 kg. Heat transfer (with two fireboxes) - 3100 kcal/h. The front sides of the shield and slab are usually plastered.

Design and features of the Swedish stove

The lower niche heats up first, the second after. The upper niche is quite spacious. Warming up occurs with both the first, second, and final heat. The Swede heats the lower part first, since the flue gases from the firebox go down. Instead of a chimney for this oven, an overflow is made, which is placed below the oven. To preserve heat, after the firewood burns out, you need to close the valve. Vertical channels are considered a classic option. Horizontal channels heat better, but require more frequent cleaning.

Heating and cooking stove Swedish No. 2. Designed for a rural home. Has heating and cooking functions on the stove and oven. The most common design in northern latitudes.

The construction process of the Swedish

The process of constructing a Swedish stove. For the construction of the furnace, the following calculations are taken: for the stove - 71 by 41 centimeters; for the firebox (height, width, depth) 30 by 35 and 45 centimeters; for oven 30 by 35 and 50 centimeters. These dimensions may vary depending on the oven version. The metal walls for the oven must be at least 4 millimeters. The distance from the edge of the grate to the oven should be about one brick. There should be a gap of a quarter brick from the back of the oven to the firebox. The oven is made of dense cast metal.

Orders of the Shvedka stove

When the oven approaches the firebox, the walls are additionally protected with vermiculite. The door must be cast iron. It is attached to the masonry, which guarantees reliable fixation.

Before masonrybrick ovensThe floor is thermally insulated. Insulation can be made from basalt cardboard. The insulation is laid so that at the end a 1.5 centimeter layer is formed. The middle layer is made from a foil sheet.
The foot of the stove (the first 2 rows) is laid out with widened centimeter seams, this creates a ledge. The brick is moistened before laying. The next two rows form an ash pan and three doors are installed for cleaning the oven. The doors are mounted with a gap. An asbestos cord is inserted into the gaps.

With a two-layer stove made of red and fireclay bricks, a distance of 6 millimeters is made between them. The internal lining of the furnace is lined with fireclay bricks. The grate bars are inserted. And the oven is inserted into the same row. From the sixth to the ninth the combustion chamber is formed. The door is inserted. The tenth row covers the oven.

Next, the slab is laid and smoke channels are made. When laying the slab, quarters are cut out of the bricks.From the twelfth to the sixteenth, the cooking chamber and smoke exhaust channels are laid out. The next two are laid with trimmed bricks. From the twenty-first to the twenty-eighth there is a chimney. In the twenty-seventh, a valve is inserted with a basalt cord gasket in the gap. From the twenty-ninth row there is an extension for the cornice of 5 centimeters. The channels (except the pipe) are closed.

The next row is made even wider by 5 centimeters. Then the size is reduced to the original size. The pipe is laid out in 5 bricks. In front of the ceiling, 3 rows of pipes are fluffed up. The thickness of the pipe is one and a half bricks. An iron smoke cap is placed on top of the pipe. The pipe running outside the house is lined with cement mortar.

Materials

* ceramic brick m200, - 600 pcs.;
* brick-resistant, - 80 pcs.;
* fire door 210 x 250 mm - 1 pc.;
* blower door 250 x 140 mm - 1 pc.;
* cleaning door 140 x 140 mm - 5 pcs.;
* cast iron plate 410 x 710 mm - 1 pc.;
* oven 450 x 360 x 300 mm - 1 pc.;
* grate length 250 mm - 1 piece;
* pre-furnace sheet 500 x 700 mm - 1 pc.

Video: Do-it-yourself Swedish oven

Chimney

The Swede's chimney is made with a wider fluff. It rises above the ridge of the house to a height of at least 60 centimeters. The width of the fluff from the edges of the mouth should be half a brick in all directions. There should be a gap of 5-6 centimeters between the iron roof parts and the brick.

After building the stove, the Swede must dry and only then can it be used. To dry it, you can heat it daily with a minimum amount of aspen firewood. Warming up increases over time until it reaches full power. After this, you can use the Swedish stove.

The need for arrangement stove heating most often associated with the lack of other alternatives - the gas mains cannot be reached, and heating the house with electricity is unprofitable. On the other hand, the undying popularity of wood-burning stoves is associated with that amazing feeling of real home warmth and comfort that only a crackling fireplace can give. As you know, you can admire fire endlessly, so why not provide your home with inexpensive heat at the same time? But for this you will have to build a heating device that could provide a visual image, have good heat transfer and fit organically into the interior. Swedish ovens fully meet these requirements, which, among other things, also allow you to cook or heat food. Let’s not hide the fact that the Swede (that’s what this wonderful structure has long been called in Rus') presents certain difficulties in manufacturing. However, using our recommendations, drawings and ordering diagrams, even a novice master can build a practical and extremely warm Swedish stove with his own hands.

To the origins of the popularity of Swedish cooking stoves

The classic Swedish stove is both beautiful and functional

According to existing legend, the first Swedish stove was built in Russia by soldiers who were captured during one of the battles of the Northern War, which was started by the Swedish king Charles XII back in 1700. However, this is nothing more than a myth, since there is documentary evidence that the heating device, known in our country as the “Swedish”, was developed in a distant northern country in 1767. The order of the Academy of Sciences was issued by King Adolf Frederick of Holstein-Gottorp. Perhaps this is what contributed to the preservation of historical materials about the development of a new wood-burning stove. The reasons that prompted the King of Sweden to personally deal with such mundane issues were quite prosaic. The fact is that the dense forests that the Swedes were so proud of in the Middle Ages had already been thoroughly cut down by this time - the wood was actively used in military and housing construction, and the Swedes simply did not know any other fuel at that time. The homes of ordinary people were most often heated by hastily built brick fireplaces that required constant heating. By the way, the stoves of the nobility were also not particularly economical - at best, they used voluminous “Dutch stoves”, which at that time were very gluttonous.

Using the proverb that has survived to this day that “everything new is a well-forgotten old,” Swedish scientists did not hesitate for a long time with the design. The basis was a well-studied Dutch oven, which was carefully remodeled during the work.

The changes primarily affected functionality - the “Swede” was equipped with a pita for cooking, an oven and practical niches, one of which was intended for drying clothes, and the other was used to ensure that cooked food remained warm all day. This arrangement was extremely convenient for small houses, since the stove, installed in the wall between the kitchen and the room, provided all the heating needs of an ordinary family.

The high functionality of the Swede can be complemented by a comfortable and warm bed

Initially, several modifications of Swedish stoves were developed, which, with minor changes, have survived to this day:

• heating and cooking unit with only one stove;
• Swedish with stove and oven;
• a wood-burning heating device equipped with a stove, an oven (one or two) and a water heating tank;
• double-sided fireplace stove - the cooking part of the stove is located in the kitchen, and the decorative part goes into the hall or living room;
• Swede with a couch.

In addition, depending on personal wishes, the stove, as before, may have one or two niches located above the stove.

Swedish stove with fireplace

The main design parameters were calculated by Swedish scientists so accurately that they have remained virtually unchanged for several centuries. We can say with complete confidence that it is the correct calculation and well-thought-out design of the Swede that are the root cause of all its advantages:

• compact dimensions;
• functional and practical design;
• high efficiency and heat transfer;
• fast heating thanks to simple and effective solutions in the heat exchange part of the unit;
• versatility;
• undemanding to fuel - you can burn any type of solid fuel, from wood shavings and reeds to coal;
• variability of the heating device - its functionality and design can be changed according to your preferences and needs;
• ease of operation and maintenance;
• efficiency;
• possibility of building with your own hands.

The disadvantages of the “Swedish” are the same as those of other channel stoves. First of all, this is rapid cooling when the valve is not closed, as well as the need to periodically clean the channels of the unit from soot. In addition, a wood-burning heat generator places increased demands on construction technology - only new, high-quality brick is suitable for making a “Swede”, and the work process will require increased concentration, accuracy and maximum efficiency.

The device and secrets of high efficiency

The Swedish stove begins to radiate heat as soon as the first stable flames appear. The secret of such possibilities comes from the decision of Scandinavian scientists to install an oven (in the diagram above it is indicated by number 1) immediately behind the firebox. The heat from the burning volatile gases, which stove makers call the first heat, heats the metal red hot, and the side outlet allows you to successfully arrange the interior of the stove. Due to the barrier installed in the path of hot gases, it was possible to reduce their initial speed - with high flame intensity, heat does not fly into the pipe, as happens in most channel furnaces. In addition, as can be seen in the diagram, in this case the furnace roof serves as a kind of cap, under which the pyrolysis residues are burned well. The advantage of this arrangement of the oven is that the combustion products flowing around its surface go down, so the walls of the heating unit begin to warm up literally from the floor, and one of the components of successful heat transfer is a large surface area, isn’t it?

Swedish oven design

The hob (2) and the recess located above it also contribute to the high heat output. Thanks to heating with the first heat, the heat dissipates from them no worse than from an oven. After the first heat begins to spread throughout the house, the niche can be covered with a wooden damper. Even after the firewood has completely burned out, the heat in the opening will be retained for 6-8 hours, which is convenient to use to keep cooked food warm.

The niche (3), located on the upper tier, is more spacious and does not heat up as much, so if necessary, you can dry wet clothes in it. As in the lower recess, its rear part is made of thin walls. Due to this, the back side is effectively heated in all operating modes of the furnace, from intense combustion to the smoldering of hot coals.

The Swede does not have Hailo in the traditional understanding of this part of the stove. Scientists decided to abolish the vaulted element due to the complexity and rise in cost of the design, installing instead a simple window for the flow of gases from the space under the oven.

Scheme of gas movement in the furnace channels

Hailo in wood stoves is a vaulted smoke collector between the firebox and heat exchange channels or chimney, designed to redirect the gas flow and improve draft. Precisely calculated and equipped according to all the rules, the chimney will not let smoke into the room even in stoves with open fuel chambers, including barbecue units or simple fireplaces.

The enterprising Swedes completely borrowed the heat collector from the Dutch, equipping it according to a proven scheme with vertical channels. Of course, in this case the upper part of the oven heats up more, but the built-in oven does a good job of equalizing the temperature gradient along the height of the heating device. Thanks to the classic layout of the heat exchanger, less soot is formed in the channels. At the same time, it is much more convenient to clean the unit, and this is important, since the stove was originally designed for any type of fuel.

In fact, furnaces were initially developed with two types of heat exchangers - vertical and horizontal. The second type of unit was installed in their homes by wealthy Swedes, who always had one of their servants on hand to clean the ducts. Nowadays, such a heating device is extremely rare.

A Swedish stove was most often installed in the wall between rooms, so there was an additional opportunity to turn its channels into a stove bench. This opportunity was mostly used by ordinary Swedes, but the nobility preferred to install a more presentable structure in this place - a fireplace.

The design of the Swedish heat exchange channels was borrowed from the Dutch ovens that were popular at that time

Thanks to innovations in the fuel and heat exchange parts, the Swedish stove was a model of excellence at that time. Of course, compared to the Dutch one, it cost the owner more, and was more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the high power and unique heat dissipation of the Swede ensured its popularity for the next two hundred years.

Basic parameters, drawings, diagrams and orders

• plate - 710x410 mm;
• combustion chamber: height 280-330 mm, width 300-350 mm, depth 400-500 mm;
• oven: height 280-300 mm, width 330-380 mm, depth 400-500 mm;
• the distance from the front surface of the oven to the edge of the grate is 190-250 mm (from ¾ to 1 brick).

Since the oven is located in a high-temperature zone, increased requirements are placed on the thickness of its walls. Thin metal is not suitable here, as it will burn out within several seasons. It is also not recommended to use too thick material - a massive structure will warm up much worse, which is fraught not so much with a decrease in heat transfer, but with underburning. As a result, the furnace is characterized by increased soot formation and reduced efficiency. The best material for the oven is structural steel 3-4 mm thick.

When designing a Swede, there is no need to strictly adhere to the dimensions indicated above. If you need to increase the thermal power of the unit, this will not be achieved by simply burning it out - you will need to proportionally increase the size of all parts of the heating device.

To build a Swedish stove with an oven and a hob, it is best to use the procedures and diagrams that we provide below.

Drawing of the internal channels of the furnace

Swedish oven dimensions

Swede sizes

Orders of a classic Swedish oven

The order of the furnace in the language of specialists means a drawing that indicates the exact order of laying bricks in each row, and also presents the features of the arrangement of floors and determines the installation locations of all structural elements - grates, doors, dampers, stoves and ovens.

In the case where the rear side of the heating unit is planned to be equipped with a fireplace, it is ducted into a common gas channel with the Swede or a separate chimney is installed. In the first case, it will not be possible to heat both devices at the same time, since the flow area of ​​the flue will not allow it. The furnace will have to be equipped with an additional damper, which will cut off the idle unit. The second method will require additional labor and materials, but will provide a unique opportunity to operate two heating devices in one thermodynamic space.

What is needed to build a heating device

The oven, which is offered for production, has a width of 1020 mm, a height of 2170 mm and a depth of 880 mm. The choice of these parameters is determined by the size of standard bricks - when laying the unit, you will not have to look for a half or three-quarter piece again, which significantly reduces construction time. The principle of multiplying the dimensions of the furnace with the dimensions of the red brick is recommended to be used when changing its proportions to suit your own needs.

During the laying process you will need both simple red and fire-resistant fireclay bricks

By the way, in Scandinavian countries entire kits are produced for the construction of stoves of any size. This “constructor” includes everything you need, including the mixture for preparing the solution. We will be able to save a little, since from the list of necessary materials given below, a thrifty and thrifty owner will always have something on hand. So, here is a list of what you will need:

• 500-700 pcs. high-quality red brick of grade M-150 and higher, which must undergo good firing and not have foreign inclusions greater than those required by GOST;
• refractory fireclay brick brand ША-8 (its dimensions correspond to red brick, which will facilitate installation);
• combustion and blower doors - 1 pc.;
• cleaning doors - 4 pcs.;
• pre-furnace sheet with a thickness of 0.5 to 2 mm;
• oven;
• grate;
• cast iron two-burner stove;
• metal corner with a shelf of at least 40 mm;
• exhaust valve;
• sheet steel;
• cement;
• sand;
• construction mesh for reinforcement;
• tamping;
• boards for formwork;
• rule at least 1 m long;
• fire-resistant masonry mixture (in extreme cases, it can be replaced with a mixture of clay and sand);
• asbestos or basalt sealant.

Furnace casting has a decisive influence on the appearance of the furnace, so why not use the original developments of foundry designers when choosing it?

Tools that will be needed to prepare the solution and actually construct the Swedish stove:

• construction hammer-pick;
• trowel;
• wooden or rubber mallet;
• jointing;
• construction level;
• square;
• cord and plumb line;
• roulette;
• shovel;
• containers for solution.

You can’t do without a convenient trowel during the construction process.

A classic Swedish stove, unlike a Dutch stove, is not covered with tiles or tiles. However, nothing prevents you from decorating the stove at your own discretion if the brickwork does not fit into the interior design.

Preparatory work

Before you start laying a Swedish stove yourself, you need to build a reliable foundation and prepare a working solution. When choosing a place for a heating device, two basic rules are followed. First, the unit is installed in a wall between two rooms, preferably in a corner. Secondly, the stove chimney should be as close to the center of the building as possible. In this case, the pipe for the exit of combustion products will be located in the most advantageous place - near the ridge, which will give good traction and ensure that the design complies with the standards fire safety.

Installation diagram of the external part of the chimney

It is best if the foundation of the future furnace is laid simultaneously with the foundation of the house. In this case, both bases should be separated by a sand cushion - it will prevent dangerous movements of the heating device if the support under the walls of the house shrinks.

Having chosen a place to install the Swedish heat generator, outline the outline of the foundation. We remind you that it must protrude beyond the outer perimeter of the stove by at least 10-15 cm. If a plank floor interferes with the construction of the base, then a cutout is made in it corresponding to the cross-section of the heating device. After this, they dig a pit, the depth of which corresponds to the freezing point of the soil.

The bottom of the pit is compacted and covered with a layer of sand 100 to 200 mm thick. The sand cushion is spilled with water and covered with crushed stone to a height of 150-170 mm. The drainage layer is well compacted, after which formwork is installed along the edges of the pit. Usually it is knocked down from anything. We recommend taking even low-grade, but even edged boards. Remember that carefully knocked down and aligned with the side of the formwork will allow you to build a perfectly level foundation with minimal time and effort.

The inside of the structure is lined with polyethylene or roofing felt, after which a reinforcing mesh is installed at a height of 5-10 cm from the bottom. Then thick concrete is mixed, which contains 1 part M-400 cement, 3 parts sand and 6 parts crushed stone. The solution is poured into the prepared fence, after which the surface of the slab is compacted and leveled. The initially leveled edges made from edged boards greatly simplify this work. All that needs to be done to get a perfectly level foundation is to run a rule over them that can cover both sides of the formwork structure.

Construction of the foundation of a Swedish oven

The poured concrete is left for several days, and after it has completely set, the wooden board is removed and the foundation is covered with roofing felt or other waterproofing material.

The preparation of mortar begins with kneading and soaking the clay. After this, sand is added to it and the mixture is thoroughly mixed. The amount of one or another component is determined depending on the fat content of the clay - the higher this indicator, the more sand is required. There is no need to immediately prepare a large amount of solution, since when it settles it will separate into its component parts - you will have to do all the work again. As for factory-made refractory compounds, among other things, they also have an expiration date when mixed, which is recommended to be strictly observed. Experienced stove makers use up to 20 liters of masonry mixture for every hundred bricks. It is this figure that we recommend focusing on when preparing for work.

Step-by-step instructions: how to build a stove with your own hands

Before laying the first brick, you should understand the basic rule of high-quality masonry - control and more control. Not only the first row, but also all niches, corners and internal chambers and channels should be ideally laid out. To do this, the stove maker should always have a building level, square and cord on hand. Beginners are recommended to pull vertical plumbs in all corners and install a horizontal mooring cord for each row. This will ensure the correct geometry of the heating device even despite small flaws in the thickness of the seams.

To prevent moisture from the clay mortar from being absorbed by the pores of the brick during laying, it must be soaked. To do this, the required amount of building material is placed in a vat with cold water and leave for one day.

In order not to get confused with the numerous stages of masonry, it is recommended to print out the ordering diagram and carry out the work itself according to a strictly planned plan.

1 row. The laying of the first row is carried out especially carefully, controlling all parameters using a level and square. It is laid out completely on a waterproofed foundation, after which it is completely filled with working solution.
It is allowed to use brick halves inside the masonry, provided they are securely tied to the next row. It is recommended to make the outer walls only with whole bricks - this will ensure a beautiful appearance of the stove after jointing.

Laying the first rows forms the base of the furnace, so it is done continuously

2nd row laid out similarly to the first - in a continuous array according to the ordering scheme. The first two rows are given special attention, since they must form a reliable and stable base for the oven.

3rd and 4th row forms an ash pit. A blower and three cleaning doors are also installed here. To ensure that the place where they meet the wall does not crack during operation of the stove (and this will certainly happen due to different thermal expansion of metal and ceramics), the cracks around the door frames are sealed using asbestos or basalt sealant.

When installing the door, you will need to trim the face of the brick.

Beginning with 5 rows, install the oven and build in the grate. After this, a ceiling is installed above the cleanouts and the blower door. The top brick is laid on a metal corner, which is cut into the bricks of the bottom row.

One of the options for installing a grate

WITH 6 to 10th row lay out the combustion chamber. A partition is installed between the firebox and the oven, using fireclay bricks mounted on an edge. When covering the firebox, an opening should form above the bulkhead, so its height relative to the upper plane is reduced by 1 brick. After laying the tenth row, a cast-iron stove with burners is installed above the firebox opening. Its compaction is carried out using the same asbestos or basalt cardboard. For additional strength, the brick edge is protected on the front side with a metal corner. To securely fasten it, drillings are made on both sides into which steel wire is threaded. Laid in the interbrick seam, it will prevent the corner from moving and provide it with additional strength. The same corner is installed to protect the upper edge of the opening, supported by the side bricks of the 16th row.

Along the course of the masonry, the joints are opened. It is important not to allow the solution to dry out completely.

Laying down 11 row, block the channel separating the firebox and the flue on the right side of the stove.

WITH 12 to 16th row lay out the cooking opening and vertical channels. The openings of the flue ducts in this place must be made with fire-resistant bricks.

Scheme of orders forming vertical channels

17-18th row needed to form the ceiling of a niche that is located above the slab. The bricks of the top row are supported by a strip of steel sheet laid on top of the metal corners.

Beginning 19th and 20th row, two hatches are mounted on the front wall for cleaning the gas ducts.

Procedure for increasing the furnace array

WITH 21 to 28th row increase the vertical channels of the heating device. When laying out the 27th row, a furnace valve is installed, above which a technological opening is left.

29th and 30th row slightly widen around the perimeter (a 50 mm protrusion is sufficient), obtaining a stove cornice. These two rows cover the chimney channels, leaving only one opening for combustion products to exit into the chimney.

Procedure for covering the furnace

IN 31st row The cross-section of the furnace is reduced - it must correspond to the parameters of row 27.

Beginning with 32 rows, lay out the chimney. The cross-section of its channel is taken to be 130x250 mm - standard dimensions allow laying with whole bricks.

Chimney orders

The chimney must be driven to the required height and equipped with a cap, after which the construction of the stove can be considered complete.

Putting the Swede into operation

It is best to build the stove in summer or early autumn, so that natural heat can dry the masonry. During the cold season, various devices will help remove moisture from the walls and channels - air heaters, heat guns, etc.

Drying the oven at an air temperature of at least 20° C is carried out within 10-12 days. At the same time, all doors and latches open. If the moisture is removed forcibly, then a fan heater is placed in the firebox, and all stove openings are closed, leaving an air passage to the chimney.

Swedish oven at work

1. For two weeks, the swede is heated with minimal fillings, which are formed from small, thin logs. In this case, it is advisable not to allow the oven to cool completely. The quality of the primary firing is checked using crumpled newspapers, which are placed in cleaning channels. The low intensity of the flame will prevent the paper from catching fire, but whether it is wet or dry after burning will serve as an excellent indicator of the quality of drying.
2. Hot firing is also carried out gradually, heating the oven several times a day, morning and evening. The power is increased gradually, each time slightly increasing the amount of fuel.

Following the rules of drying and firing will strengthen and harden the masonry joints, which will guarantee reliable and long-term operation of the Swedish stove.

The frequency of cleaning the heating ducts depends on the quality of the fuel and can be done 1-2 times a year. The best firewood is, of course, considered large birch logs - they will give both a flame and long-lasting heat. Experienced stove makers recommend heating the stove with dry aspen once every two weeks - it helps remove soot naturally. But it is unsafe to burn the stove with various flammable substances - this can lead to a fire. Unfortunately, even in our high-tech times, there is still no better way than removing soot manually using scrapers and brushes.

Video: ordering the Swedish stove

As you probably already understood, a Swedish stove cannot be built from just anything - first of all, you will need high-quality materials. In addition, experienced stove makers recommend starting construction only in a good mood - then things get going, the work progresses faster, and, as they say, the soul sings. We advise you to approach the process with all the scrupulousness and patience that you are capable of. Believe me, the Swede will thank you for this with such comfort and cozy warmth that only a simple wood-burning stove, born in a hospitable, fairy-tale country, is capable of.

A Swedish stove can be built with your own hands only if the home craftsman already has strong mason skills and at least a little experience working with. The Swede itself is a rather complex structure, clearly not intended for primary training in such technologies.

There are several models of the Swedish type stove:

- a heating and cooking stove, which has only a stove, and also, if desired, equipped with an additional oven, a water heating tank and a niche for drying;

- a fireplace stove, which can be located in such a way that the heating and cooking part of the structure will go into the kitchen, and the decorative fireplace side will go into the bedroom or living room;

- “Swedish stove” with a stove bed - this stove has a more complex design, but it can serve as a warm bed in winter.

The model is selected depending on the area that can be used for it, since some of the varieties are quite massive, while others, on the contrary, have compact shapes.

When choosing a stove, in addition to the area, of course, the requirements for functionality are taken into account. For example, if a “Swedish” is installed in the kitchen and its location does not border on other rooms, then the choice usually falls on a compact one. If it is necessary to heat the entire house, then an appropriate place is selected for the stove, where it will heat two rooms at once, or an option with a stove bench, from which a fairly large amount of heat also emanates.

A “Swedish” with a fireplace is perfect for a romantic interior - it is usually chosen by those owners who like to spend evenings near the fire. If the fireplace compartment is laid correctly, it will also be able to heat the room into which its firebox opens.

Whatever furnace model is chosen, work still begins with the construction of the foundation.

Foundation for the stove

It is recommended to lay the foundation for the stove when laying the foundation of the house, if this is possible, of course. If not, then you will have to build it in a ready-made building. But in both cases, it is necessary to separate the foundation of the furnace from the concrete foundation of the entire building. This is necessary so that if one of the structures shrinks unsuccessfully, it would not “pull” the other along with it, thereby creating deformation of the masonry.

• For the massive structure of the furnace, a reliable foundation is laid, which should go 700 ÷ 800 mm deep into the ground.

If the soil freezes to great depths, the pit is also deepened - this parameter must be known in advance, even before construction begins.

It is also important for the reliability of the structure to know the characteristics of the soil in the construction region, since the depth of the foundation and its strengthening also depend on this. You can “get hold of” all this data from any local construction organization.

• If the furnace is laid in an already built house with a built-in floor, then the markings are made directly on the covering, so as to cut out the required fragment and get to the ground level. The hole in the floor must have dimensions that exceed the base of the stove by 100 ÷ 150 mm on each side.

• Next, the soil is marked and a pit of the required depth is dug.
• The bottom of the finished pit is compacted, and sand is poured onto it, which is moistened with water and also compacted thoroughly. The thickness of the compacted sand cushion should be at least 100 ÷ 200 mm, depending on the depth of the pit.
• Then follows crushed stone - it is poured onto a sand bed in a layer 150 ÷ ​​170 mm thick. It also needs to be compacted well.
• The next stage is the installation of formwork under the foundation. As a rule, its sides are made from low-grade boards. If gaps form between the boards, then the inside of the formwork is lined with plastic film, which is secured to the board walls using a stapler.

In addition to film, roofing felt can be used to waterproof the foundation, which also needs to be fixed to the walls.

• The formwork is raised above the ground to the height of the foundation, which may not reach the floor level by one layer of brick or rise above it by 80 ÷ 100 mm.

The second option would be to install formwork only around the pit, but the waterproofing material must be secured.

• Then a coarse mortar is poured, which is made from coarse crushed stone and cement, with a small addition of sand. The thickness of this layer should be about 150 mm.
• Next, a reinforcement structure made of metal rods is installed, which is pressed into fresh mortar.

• The next layer is poured with a thinner cement mortar to the height of the soil - it is leveled and left to set.
• After it sets and hardens a little, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it.

• Having laid the mesh, it is filled with concrete mortar to the height of the formwork. The poured solution is leveled, and after that the foundation must completely set, harden and gain the necessary strength. These processes will take quite a lot of time, and usually subsequent operations proceed no earlier than after 25 ÷ 28 days.

• After this, the upper part of the formwork is removed, and a waterproofing layer is laid on the flat surface of the foundation, consisting of 2-3 layers of roofing material glued together in thickness.

Upon completion of this stage of foundation preparation, you can proceed directly to

"Swedish" with fireplace

This stove model will completely satisfy those who prefer a practical approach to things and appreciate the mood of romantic evenings. It is installed so that the cooking side of the structure goes into the kitchen, and the fireplace goes into one of the living spaces intended for relaxation.

The stove becomes part of the wall or a separator of two zones in a large room, which is typical for country houses or small private houses.

"Swedish" from the fireplace side

The internal structure of the fireplace stove can be seen in its cross-sectional images, where you can clearly see how the metal elements are installed.

Materials

To build this stove, you need to purchase high-quality building materials - only in this case can you get a reliable, strong, durable and beautiful-looking structure. Bricks and building mixtures are purchased with a reserve, approximately 15% more than the material required for construction. In addition, some metal (cast iron and steel) elements will be required.

So, for this “Swedish” model you need to purchase:

• Red, preferably clinker brick, from which it is easier to make neat, even masonry. 717 pieces will be needed, not counting the construction of the pipe.
• Silicate or fireclay bricks for laying combustion chambers - 154 pieces.
• Sand, clay and cement or ready-made heat-resistant mixtures for mortar.
• Steel wire, 4 ÷ 5 mm in diameter - for securing cast iron parts.
• Asbestos sheet and the same cord - for fire protection of the walls of the house, and to protect metal elements from premature burnout.
• Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 ÷ 1030 mm - 2 pcs., it is needed to strengthen the surface of the hob.
• Steel strips 50x5x920mm - 3 pcs., 50x5x54 mm - 2 pcs., 50x5x48 mm - 2 pcs. These parts will be required to create the basis for laying the next brick row above the cooking chamber.
• Grate, size 200×300 mm - 1 pc.
• Fire door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
• Doors for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm - 8 pcs.
• Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
• Oven 450×360×300 mm -1 pc.
• Valves for chimney channels 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
• Hob 410×710 mm - 1 pc.
• Fireplace grate, 690 ÷ 700 mm long - it can be purchased ready-made or made independently from a steel rod.
• Metal sheet, size 500×700 mm, 2 pcs. It will be needed if this option is chosen for flooring in front of the firebox. Instead, ceramic tiles can be used for this purpose.

This stove model has dimensions of 1020x890x2170 mm. In addition, the fireplace insert protrudes forward of the entire structure by 130 mm.

Prices for clinker bricks

Fire brick

Furnace laying

To have an idea of ​​how smoke is removed inside the structure through the smoke exhaust channels, and how the other elements are located, you need to carefully study the plan diagram. It will help you understand the internal cavities and chambers, as well as determine how bricks are laid in a particular section of the furnace being built.

Diagram of a “Swede” with a fireplace, the path of movement of combustion products - picture one...
... and the second

Having such a diagram, you can use it to carry out preliminary dry laying of the entire structure - this will help to finally clarify the configuration of each of the rows.

In addition, experienced craftsmen advise that when working on the construction of brick kilns using mortar, first try to lay each of the rows “dry”. This is done in order to pre-size the bricks for each row. Only after carrying out these preliminary processes will it be possible to begin the final laying of the mortar.

Thanks to the drawn up ordering diagrams, it will be much easier to try your hand at building the “Swedge”.

Before you start laying out the first row, you need to make precise markings on the roofing material laid on the foundation - draw out the edges of the future base using chalk.

According to the markings made, the first row of the oven is laid out. It must be mounted perfectly accurately, since its evenness will determine how slender and reliable the entire structure will be.

Row 1 is continuous. It should be perfectly smooth

The first row, as in all oven models, is laid out solid.

Second row - installing a fireplace grate

The second row is laid out in a slightly different layout, but it is also completely filled with brick. The area where the fireplace insert will be located is lined with sand-lime brick. Having laid out a row, holders are installed on top of it, and the fireplace grate is fixed to them by welding.

3rd row - the beginning of the formation of internal cavities and channels

In the third row, they begin to design the blower chamber and cleaning channels, as well as a place to install the oven. In addition, they begin to install a vertical smoke exhaust duct. On the other side of the structure, the fuel chamber of the fireplace begins to form.

Simultaneously with the laying of this row, doors are built into it in the right places, which are secured using prepared pieces of wire.

From the back of the chamber for installing the oven, a passage is left connected to the cleaning chambers. To do this, the corner of the brick installed in this place is cut off.

The fourth row completely repeats the third in configuration, only the bricks are “in the dressing”.

5th row - places are prepared for the grate and combustion chamber

On the fifth row on top of the blower chamber, a place for installation is made, but otherwise it completely repeats the previous rows. The row is laid out with sand-lime bricks in areas that will be in direct contact with the fire - these are the areas where the grate will be laid.

“Trying on” the oven

Then, the grate is installed - it must be fixed to the solution.

On the same row you can install the firebox door, tying it on the sides with a rope, or you can move its installation to the sixth row, leaving an opening between the bricks for it.

Row 6 - installing the combustion chamber door

On the sixth row, a door is installed (if it was not installed on the fifth) and secured with wire, which is embedded in the seams between the rows.

Sand-lime bricks, which will create a wall between the firebox and the oven cabinet, are installed on the edge. Thanks to this design, the oven will warm up faster.

On the sixth row, the gap left in the lower rows behind the oven is closed - between it and the laid out vertical channel.

Seventh row - metal strips to cover the fireplace chamber

The seventh row does not differ from the sixth in practically anything, except that a metal strip is laid on top of it, which will become a support for laying the next row of bricks.

On the eighth row, work proceeds according to the diagram.

8th row - the oven is completely installed in its place

The ninth row has the same structure as the previous one, except for the peculiarity that two metal strips are placed above the oven, on which the next row will be laid. These strips will help relieve stress on the camera's support points.

On the tenth row, the place for laying the hob is first prepared. The edge above the fire door and oven is reinforced with a corner. Asbestos strips are placed under the edges of the hob. On the left edge of the stove, in the wall, a gap is left for installing the door.

Row 11 - the beginning of laying out a niche for the hob

On the eleventh row, the formation of the cooking niche begins. Bricks placed on the right side of the slab cover the hole between the oven wall and the slab that was left uncovered in the previous row. The remaining elements are laid out according to the diagram.

Row 12 - special attention to the beveled part of the bricks

At this level, the bricks covering the combustion chamber are cut at an angle. This is necessary for the correct direction of smoke towards the chimney.

The 13th row is laid out exactly according to the order pattern.

Row 14 - the beginning of the formation of the mantelpiece

On the fourteenth row, a fireplace mantel is formed by protruding the brick in front of the masonry and on the sides, approximately 25 mm.

Row 15 - extension of the mantelpiece

On this row, the shelf continues to form above the fireplace - the bricks are now laid perpendicular to the bottom row. They are pushed forward and to the sides by another 25 mm.

Row 16 - strips and corner for laying the ceiling of a niche

On the sixteenth row, the niche above the hob is covered with steel strips, and a corner is placed on the front edge.

18 - 17 rows - complete overlap of the cooking niche

Rows 17 and 18 are performed in order. When laying them, the cooking niche is covered with two continuous rows of bricks.

Row 19 - internal channel system and cleaning doors

On the 19th row, the chimney openings are made. The brick separating the fireplace and vertical stove channel is cut diagonally on both sides. In addition, doors are installed on the cleaning channels.

Row 20 is laid out according to the pattern. When installing it, no additional elements are installed.

Row 21 - another inspection door

On the 21st row, another door is installed - on the cleaning channel.

On row 22, a door is also installed - on another cleaning channel.

Row 23 is laid out strictly according to the pattern.

Row 24 - installing the valve

On row 24, a damper is installed on the fireplace flue duct

Row 25 - another bolt

On row 25, a second chimney damper is installed.

On row 26, the last door is installed on the cleaning channel, and the vertical channel is also connected to the gas outlet.

27 ÷ 28 rows are mounted according to the scheme, and are almost identical to each other.

29 ÷ 30 rows cover all channels with a continuous covering, leaving only one hole for the chimney pipe, in which the bricks are laid out with a bevel.

31 row - the last, common valve is installed

On the thirtieth first row, a common damper is installed on the chimney.

Pipe laying begins from row 32. Its height will depend on the height of the ceiling in the room. The thickness of the chimney walls should be at least half a brick.

If you decide to build just such a stove model, then the video attached to the article will be a good help:

Video: Swedish stove with fireplace part

"Swedish" with a bed

This “Swedish” model turns out to be quite massive, as it has a fairly large bed, which is located in the rear part of the structure.

A very practical Swedish model with a heated bed

This type of heating structure is especially suitable for country houses, since, despite its massive size, this stove will help save space, because having it, you don’t have to install a bed.

In addition, summer nights are not always warm, and a heated stove in the evening can keep the stove warm until the morning.

The size of the stove is 1781x1280 mm, the stove bench is 1781 mm long and 630 mm wide. Such a heating structure can provide heat to a living area of ​​30 square meters. m.

A fully folded stove must be dried before heating at full power for approximately 10 ÷ 12 days. This can be done naturally by opening all the valves and doors, or you can help in this matter in an “artificial” way, in which a regular high-power light bulb is used. It is placed in the firebox, then the door is closed, the power is turned on and left for the entire drying period.

After this, the initial fire is carried out with a small addition of firewood for three to four days. Then the amount of fuel is gradually increased. This drying will strengthen and harden the mortar in the joints.

If you plan to carry out external finishing of the structure, then this process is carried out only after the furnace has completely dried, and even better, after one season of full operation.

Doing it on your own is not as easy as it seems, so before getting down to business, it is recommended to realistically assess your strengths. You can conduct several trial training sessions by laying bricks on the mortar as usual. It is imperative to thoroughly, down to the smallest detail, understand the nuances of the procedures. Only after successful completion of the processes of such “training” will it be possible to begin independent work over the stove. And all the same, it would not be superfluous to protect your work by finding the opportunity to invite a knowledgeable person for control and guidance.