Reading time: 8 minutes.

Manufacturers of plastic windows assure that new double-glazed windows, manufactured using the most modern technologies, will preserve comfortable temperature in the house all year round and will save its residents from the seasonal hassle of insulating frames. But in reality, many owners of such windows still face the problem of drafts and cold penetration into the room. There may be several reasons for this problem – let’s look at each one separately.

Why does it blow from a plastic window?

Determining the reason for the blowing of a plastic window begins with whether it is new or old. In the first case, the problem can be safely attributed to poor quality installation of the product, which means that the installers will have to solve it.

In this case: poor-quality installation seam of plastic windows

Often, plastic windows are installed by companies whose workers do not have sufficient qualifications. Mistakes are also possible when trying to install windows yourself. That is why it is not recommended to save on specialists when replacing PVC windows with new ones. But if you are faced with a problem with improper installation or an obvious manufacturing defect, warranty repairs should cover all additional costs.

In the second case, the appearance of a draft is associated with the characteristics and duration of operation of the window. Among the reasons are:

Some of the problems can be fixed yourself, which will save both time and money. Others are best left to specialists. Namely:

• if replacement is necessary (“original” parts can often be ordered only through the installer);
• when performing external high-rise work (for windows located above the second floor);
• when insulating a window winter period(specialists will be able to do this quickly and without significant heat loss in the room).

With your own hands you can insulate the window from the inside or along the contour, replace the sealing material, and insulate the window sill.

How to understand where it's blowing from?

Before you begin work on insulating a window, you should make sure that it is actually blowing from it. Very often, a room “freezes” for other reasons; the air circulation in it is disrupted - a cold flow moves near the windows, which creates the illusion of a draft.

There are several ways to determine the source of window ventilation:

It is necessary to check the window along the entire perimeter, as well as in the area under the window sill. It is also worth paying attention to specific details on the window, which most often cause drafts - the bead holding the glass unit, the rubber seal, fittings (hinges, handles).

Read also: Features of choosing round windows: pros and cons of materials

How to insulate a plastic window?

Various causes of drafts require different ways their elimination. The main thing to remember is that you should not skimp on the quality of materials and professional services. Annual repairs of a plastic window and large heat losses in the room during the heating season will still cost a pretty penny.

Adjusting the clamping mechanism

Insufficient pressing density of the window mechanism leads to deterioration of the sealing of the sashes, and therefore to the appearance of drafts. You can adjust the mechanism yourself if you have the necessary tools and some skills.

Adjustment tool: 4mm hex key

The clamping mechanism is adjusted as follows:

In this case, it is important not to tighten the clamp too much, so as not to squeeze the seal and disrupt the operation of the mechanism.

Video instruction:

Another window element that is responsible for the clamping density and sometimes requires adjustment is loops. In this case, the hinge tongue is extended to its maximum using the hexagon to ensure maximum pressure.

If it blows from the direction of the loop itself

The tool is turned counterclockwise for left-handed loops, and in reverse side for right-hand drives.

Often the clamping force deteriorates due to worn out glazing bead. It is easy to remove (by prying it off with a spatula, knife or other suitable tool) and replace it with a new one.

It is important that the part is exactly the same - it can be purchased from the same company that installed the windows.

Replacing the rubber seal

The window seal is broken when the rubber seal “dries out.” This happens over time, especially if the glass unit is not properly cared for.

Frosts are approaching and the apartment is becoming very cold, despite the normal operation of the radiators and even additional heaters? Then the first thing you need to do is check the condition of your windows and, if necessary, insulate them for the winter.

A huge amount of heat escapes through the windows. In order to prevent this, you can use basic materials at hand. There are many techniques that can temporarily solve the issue of window insulation. There are also means for longer-term thermal insulation, with which you can ensure the tightness of window structures for several years.

We present to your attention instructions for using the most popular insulation materials. Explore the available options and choose the most optimal one.

Regardless of the chosen method of window insulation, you will need approximately the same set of tools and materials.

Devices for self-insulation of windows.

1. Putty. You can use silicone or a special window one.
2. Water.
3. Sealing rope.
4. Detergents for window frames and glass.
5. Old rags.
6. Rubber spatula.
7. Special window insulation. Instead, you can use ordinary foam rubber.
8. Adhesive tape.
9. Wide bowl.
10. Flour.
11. Laundry or cosmetic soap.

One of the most cost-effective and easiest to implement options for insulating window structures. In accordance with these instructions, newsprint is used to seal cracks. It is enough to simply take old newspapers, wet them with water to obtain a homogeneous mass, and then fill all sorts of cracks with this substance. For greater convenience, soaked paper can be rolled into tubes.

If you want to save even more, you can use plain paper. Cut it into long strips and glue it to the frames using laundry soap diluted in water.

Despite its simplicity and cheapness, the method is very effective and proven by many generations of housewives. However, such insulation also has its own significant disadvantage - when the air temperature outside begins to rise, the thermal insulation will have to be removed. The problem is that the paint often comes off along with the paper. And it’s not so easy to get rid of soaked newspapers. Therefore from this method are increasingly being abandoned in favor of the next thermal insulation option.

This option is very convenient and easy to implement. You need to buy technical wool from a hardware store and fill all the existing cracks with the material. The joints of the structural elements are sealed with fabric. Industrial wool is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties and can be removed without any difficulty with the onset of warm weather.

Although such insulation is the most budget-friendly and extremely simple to implement, its effectiveness is beyond doubt - the windows stop letting cold air through and heat is retained in heated rooms.

To seal large cracks, it is more convenient to use foam rubber. Typically, such cracks form when the window sashes shrink very much, to the point that they no longer fit normally to the frame. It will not be possible to save the situation with ordinary cotton wool in such a situation.

To eliminate drafts and reduce heat loss, foam rubber must be fixed around the perimeter of the window sashes. It will allow you to close the windows hermetically. You can buy the material directly with the adhesive side to save time and make installation more convenient. If such material is not available, purchase ordinary foam rubber and nail it to the window frame with small nails.

The service life of foam rubber is on average 2-3 years. Monitor its condition and replace if necessary. You can stick paper, tape or fabric on top of the foam. In the spring, you need to get rid of such thermal insulation. You can leave the foam rubber itself and use it next winter.

Insulation using the “Swedish” method

Currently, this method of insulation is very popular. It got its name thanks to the EuroStrip material used for insulation. This material was developed by Swedish specialists. The second name of the technology is groove seal.

The main advantage of the method under consideration is that it allows for partial reconstruction of windows, and not simply creating temporary insulation, like the other methods mentioned above. The windows do not need to be sealed, so even in winter they can be opened for ventilation. The service life of insulation is about 15-20 years.

The only drawback is the rather high cost. Also, certain difficulties may arise during the installation process, because... Such insulation is installed using a much more complex pattern than cotton wool, paper and foam rubber. Buy the material and use it to insulate your windows according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Guide to insulation with paraffin and sealant

To eliminate small cracks, you can buy silicone sealant. You need to wash the windows in advance and wait until they are completely dry. Such insulation must not be performed at air temperatures below +5 degrees.

The sealant is very convenient and easy to apply using a construction gun specially designed for this purpose. It is better to remove excess material immediately before it dries. In the future, to remove any leaking sealant, it will be enough to wipe the surface with a cloth slightly moistened with gasoline. You can simply carefully pick it off the glass using a knife.

Small cracks can also be sealed with paraffin. To do this, take several paraffin candles or buy ready-made material right away. The paraffin needs to be melted, taken into a syringe of suitable volume and carefully filled with it into each existing crack.

Large defects can be repaired with an ordinary clothesline. Any other lace will do. The rope is tightly pushed into the gap, after which it is filled with paraffin.

Such insulation will last at least 2-3 years. For the rest, focus on the condition of the thermal insulation and add new paraffin if necessary.

One of the most modern and effective methods. To perform such insulation, a sealant based on silicone rubber is used. The material withstands temperature changes and is not afraid of contamination. If desired, you can even paint it - this will not deteriorate its thermal insulation properties.

Tubes of different diameters are available for sale, so you can choose the material that is best suited for insulating your windows.

You can set the required diameter using plasticine. It is enough to take a piece of plasticine, wrap it in plastic wrap and squeeze it between the sash and the frame. By the thickness of the resulting “cast” you can find out the size of the gap.

The rubber seal provides reliable thermal insulation and allows for partial restoration of windows. But it is quite expensive, plus it requires some skills for successful installation. Suitable exclusively for windows without significant damage, which they tried to maintain in proper condition throughout their entire service life.

If the windows are in a very neglected state, with a violation of the normal geometry, the presence of cracked or rotten areas, it is better to refuse such restoration, because it will cost about the same amount of money as a full-fledged new window costs.

You can install the seal yourself. First, you need to remove the sashes from their hinges, and then mark a place in the window frame for cutting the groove. Next, you should select a groove around the perimeter of the window frame. This is easily done using a cutter. The sealant is rolled into the prepared groove. It needs to be glued. Fixation is done using glue. It must be of the highest quality and reliable so that the material does not shift or fall out. After installing the seal, all that remains is to return the window sashes to their place.

If necessary, replace the fittings and try to align the window geometry, but without the necessary skills it is almost impossible to do this. With proper installation and proper handling, the seal will last about 15-20 years.

Another modern and effective method. The technology involves the use of specially developed heat-saving films. Their structure is such that they normally transmit the light of the sun into the room, while not allowing heat to escape from the room. The film must be attached with the metallized side facing the street.

Fastening to the frame is carried out with an overlap. Adhesive tape is used for fixation. If you do everything carefully, the film will hardly be noticeable.

Features of using polyurethane foam as insulation

To seal cracks and reduce heat loss, you can use ordinary polyurethane foam. It is extremely easy to use and allows you to obtain thermal insulation highest quality. You just need to show maximum attention and accuracy during work in order to seal all existing cracks. After the foam has dried, its excess should be cut off with a sharp knife, and the insulation itself should be hidden with something.

To mask such thermal insulation, you can use homemade putty. To prepare it, you need to take part of the chalk and 2 times the amount of building plaster. Mix the ingredients, dilute the mixture with water to a semi-liquid state and spread on the foam. Of course, it will not be possible to completely hide traces of insulation, but at least the polyurethane foam will not be so conspicuous.

Thus, to independently insulate windows for the winter, you can use a wide variety of materials. Choose the most suitable and convenient option for you and get started. Good luck with your work and have a warm winter!

Video - How to insulate wooden windows

Video - Installation of heat-saving film

Video - How to insulate a plastic window with your own hands for the winter

Proper installation of windows traditionally raises a lot of questions among developers. The narrowest places are considered to be the “cold” and wind-blown junction of the window to the wall and the slopes that freeze in winter, on which mold can appear. These problems can be solved by doing the so-called. “warm” window installation, which we will talk about in this article.

• Why do windows “cry”, slopes freeze and fungus appears on the windowsill.
• How to improve the thermal insulation parameters of the unit: wall-window.
• How to insulate a window opening yourself using EPS.

Condensation on windows and mold on slopes: causes and solution to the problem

Plastic windows “crying” in winter are a negative phenomenon familiar to many city residents and owners of private houses.

Condensation falling on the window.

The second problem is mold that appears on the slopes or windowsill.

Dampness leads to the appearance of fungus at the bottom of the window.

How to avoid this? To answer this question, you need to understand the mechanism of this phenomenon. With the classic heating and natural ventilation scheme, radiators are placed below the window.

The radiator captures cold air and raises the heated flow upward. Near a cold window, in winter, part of this flow cools and goes down.

There is a constant mixing of warm and cold air masses in the window area.

Modern plastic windows, unlike old structures through which cold, dry air from the street constantly penetrated, are sealed. If there is a wide window sill at the bottom of the window (covering the radiator), or the radiator is mounted in a niche.

This prevents the natural mixing (exchange) of air masses and a stagnation zone forms near the window.

As a result, the glass blowing is disrupted. Warm air saturated with water vapor comes into contact with the cold glass unit, cools and condenses. This moisture flows down the window. It drips on the windowsill, accumulates in corners, etc.

Over time, this will lead to mold and damage to the finish.

You can solve the problem like this:

• Reduce the width of the window sill.
• Make holes in the window sill to improve the circulation of warm air coming from the radiator.

• Place a convector in the window sill or install heating elements, for example, an electric heating cable.

If the single-layer wall is very wide (in cold regions), then the window moves inward by increasing the thickness of the quarter. This reduces the width of the window sill, minimizes the stagnation zone and improves glass flow.

Schemes for the distribution of air flows and internal air temperatures in the area where windows made of PVC profiles are located at different installation depths in the thickness of the outer wall;

• a - when placing the window unit near the outer surface
• 6 - when the window block is shifted to the center of the wall

The quarter (on top and on both sides of the window structure) protects the window-wall joint from being blown by the wind.

Also, in modern PVC windows, a valve is installed for micro-ventilation (air flow, ventilation and additional ventilation of the window area) during the cold period.

The above is only part of the solution to the problem. Often, in addition to “crying” windows, the slopes in the house become damp and moldy.

How to avoid the appearance of fungus on slopes

For example, there is a wall made of aerated concrete. There is no insulation of the facade. The temperature outside the house is minus, and the temperature inside is positive. Let’s say it’s 26°C outside and + 20°C indoors. Window installed.

In this design, a window (even a high-quality one with several cameras and energy efficient) is a cold bridge. Those. where the window is installed, the thermal contour of the wall is weakened, and the effective thickness of the aerated concrete (which affects the thermal resistance of the entire structure) is actually reduced, and the slope freezes. This can be visualized like this:

Temperature fields (isotherms) in a single-layer structure.

An isotherm is a line connecting points with the same temperature.

Changing the isotherm at the window installation location.

Because of this, part of the slope with the window frame ends up in the so-called zone. dew point. This in turn leads to condensation in this place.

The problem is aggravated by the fact that the slope is not covered with vapor-permeable material. Warm water vapor contained in the air of a living space tends to escape and easily penetrates into cold slopes, and conditions for moisture condensation are created in the structure. The slopes become waterlogged and mold and mildew appear on them.

The solution is to insulate the slopes with a vapor-proof material, for example, EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) 3-5 cm thick.

Thus, although there are conditions for moisture condensation in the wall, there is no water vapor in the colder zone. The wall remains dry and “healthy” even at negative temperatures.

How to make a “warm” window installation yourself

The technology for insulating slopes with extruded polystyrene foam is excellent for ordinary country house. But, installing windows in energy-efficient homes requires a more advanced option. The thermal characteristics of the wall-window assembly can be improved by using the so-called system. "warm" installation.

The main principle of “warm” window installation is that the entire window structure around the perimeter of the window opening is installed only in a vapor-tight insulation.

These can be EPPS, PIR board, foam glass. Technology of “warm” window installation from the front brickwork next, you need:

• Insulate the upper, right and left slopes with EPS.
• The base under the window is also insulated with EPS. But first, in the thermal insulation, you need to make a rigid support under the frame (under plastic support pads/wedges) to transfer the load to the wall, which will be discussed below.
• Additionally protect the mounting foam - from the inside with a vapor barrier, and from the outside with a vapor-permeable moisture-UV and windproof sealing material.

Scheme: “warm” window installation.

This way the window is completely cut off from the cold wall.

Now let's take a closer look at the lower heat-insulating part made of EPS. The nuance is the following - the window must rest and transfer the load from its weight to a reliable, rigid base. When installing a window on aerated concrete, brick, concrete or a wooden lintel in the frame, no problems arise.

The window is mounted like this - under each vertical element of the frame, support blocks/wedges made of durable plastic are placed, and not, as some “masters” do, wooden chips or scraps from boards that come to hand are placed.

But extruded polystyrene foam, although a relatively strong material (it is laid under the foundation, for example, USHP), does not withstand local crushing well. Those. point load from the support block.

If you install a window on EPS or polystyrene foam, these materials may sag over time under the weight of the window. As a result, the frame may warp and the glass unit may crack.

To install a window using the “warm” installation technology you need:

• Pre-drill holes with a diameter of about 25 mm in the EPS, which is placed under the window.
• Insert pieces of thick-walled polypropylene water pipes into extruded polystyrene foam.
• Fill the inserts with polyurethane foam.

Scheme of an EPS base for “warm” window installation.

In this way, rigid support areas are formed for the pads/wedges, which will not be pressed under the weight of the window.

The height of the inserts in the EPS is selected according to the thickness of the thermal insulation. The installation locations for the inserts are where the support wedges are placed. Next, the window is mounted as usual and secured to the wall with mounting/anchor plates.

“Warm” window installation is not a fashionable trend, but one of typical units energy-efficient home and a way to reduce heating costs and energy costs.

• Vapor-permeable materials cannot be used for insulation and finishing of slopes- stone wool, drywall.
• Using the principles described in the article and the above scheme for “warm” window installation (adjusting it to suit the specifics of your project), you can install a window structure in stone, frame houses, in cottages with an insulated “wet” facade, etc.
• If the window is located in an area of ​​soft insulation, for example, stone wool, then in the lower part of the opening, under the frame, you need to make strong and rigid supporting platforms. This could be removing bricks from the masonry or metal brackets screwed to the wall.

• : step-by-step instruction.

And watch the videos:

• How to install windows in a stone house with your own hands: master class.

August 28, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

Recently I had to take up Do-it-yourself insulation of slopes of plastic windows. The fact is that one grandmother I know, at one of the feasts in the village, complained to me that modern technologies I work in construction worse than the already proven old-fashioned methods.

It turned out that she had recently replaced the window frames with plastic ones, after which her house became not warmer, but, on the contrary, colder. I immediately understood why in the house It became colder, but he didn’t try to prove anything to her. I just decided to help the old man, especially since there were only two windows, and the technology itself is as simple as possible for me.

But then it turned out that the slopes had to be insulated not only from the inside, but also outside. But the result turned out to be so good that several more grannies decided to take advantage of my kindness. Naturally, I was not able to help everyone, so I drew up a detailed work plan according to which I had to act.

This instructions, as I later found out, she helped their sons and sons-in-law do everything with your own hands. I think that this information will help you to insulate the slopes like plastic windows, and wooden window blocks.

Background

Since this whole story began with a dispute about how effective modern construction technologies are, I cannot help but raise the question of what was used to insulate windows before, during my childhood.

Not so long ago, in order to get rid of the piercing draft blowing through the cracks at the window opening (after all, the window blocks were far from ideal, believe me), only improvised means were used. From childhood I remember the following types of “insulation”:

• old unnecessary rags of different sizes;
• special paper, which was sold in rolls in hardware stores;
• medical cotton wool;
• foam;
• sticky tape and so on.

This insulation of slopes was produced independently, and this did not require any special knowledge or special tools. However, the effectiveness of the measures taken left much to be desired. Not to mention how beautiful it all looked.

Often, after dismantling such insulation, entire layers of paint fell off the window frames, after which it was necessary to sand, putty and paint the damaged surfaces again.

In general, I think there is no need to prove the effectiveness of old methods to anyone except a grandmother in the village. Therefore, it’s better to tell you about what thermal insulation materials are used insulation of slopes from the inside and outside now.

Material selection

There are a huge number of different insulation materials on the building materials market that are suitable for insulating window slopes. I will highlight only the most popular of them. To make it easier for you to choose, I have compiled a table, which I present to your attention.

Material	Peculiarities
Styrofoam	One of the most popular solutions, in my opinion, due to its maximum cheapness. In principle, working with this material is also not difficult, but you need to take into account some features. For example, the ability to greatly change its size when heated and cooled. In this regard, I personally recommend using a minimum of adhesive so that it does not crack during use.
Foamed polyethylene	In addition to a low thermal conductivity coefficient, it boasts excellent hydrophobic properties. Often in my work I used polyethylene with an additional foil layer, which plays the role of a heat-reflecting screen, retaining heat inside living spaces. When working with this material, I recommend paying increased attention to sealing and sealing joints in slopes.
Basalt wool	The optimal choice for insulating window openings in terms of technical characteristics and cost. In addition to protecting against cold and preserving thermal energy, cotton wool acts as an excellent sound insulator. For grandmothers, this may be a disadvantage, since from her window she will not hear what is happening in the neighbors’ yard. Besides everything else, basalt wool has water-repellent properties and does not lose its characteristics when wet.
Multilayer panels	A practical and easy-to-implement method. We are talking about ready-made plastic panels, which are supplemented on the bottom with a layer of insulating material. They absorb noise well and are quickly installed.

If the builders who installed the windows had crooked hands and left a large number of cracks, you can combine the materials listed above, achieving maximum protection against heat loss.

Methods for insulating plastic windows

After thinking about everyone possible ways insulation and assessing the scale of the work, I decided to insulate my grandmother’s windows with sheets of foam plastic. It will turn out cheap, and quickly, and of sufficient quality. Moreover, after the last repair I still had a supply of this material, so I didn’t have to spend much.

Method 1 – Internal thermal insulation

Now I'll tell you how I spent insulation of window slopes from the inside. The scheme of work is quite simple and consists of several simple steps:

1. I cut off all the protrusions and rags of polyurethane foam. By the way, I would like to immediately say to all novice masters. Finishing of slopes must be carried out as soon as possible, otherwise the foam, exposed to the sun and wind, will quickly crumble. You will have to seal the cracks again.

1. I primed the slopes with a special primer. I always buy a composition that not only removes dust from surfaces and improves their adhesive properties, but also contains antiseptics that prevent the formation of mold and mildew on slopes.

1. I mixed the plaster solution (for this I had purchased dry powder plaster mixture). For mixing I used a special mixer, which is inserted into a drill, and a plastic bucket. I can’t tell you exactly the proportions of water and powder (you will have a mixture from another manufacturer), but the information of interest can always be found on the packaging.

1. Plastered the slope. Here it is not necessary to carefully observe the level. The main thing is to level the surfaces of the window opening so that foam sheets can be easily glued to it.

Particular attention must be paid to sealing the cracks into which construction foam was blown. They need to be plastered as thoroughly as possible to avoid destruction of the sealant during operation.

1. After that, I let the plaster dry completely. Then, in order to reduce glue consumption and improve the degree of its adhesion to the surface, I primed the slopes again. Like last time, I used a composition with special antiseptic additives.
2. Cleaned the foam. The fact is that this thermal insulation material has a smooth surface, so in order for it to stick better in the window opening, it needs to be slightly scratched with sandpaper.
   This needs to be done on both sides. There will be glue on one, and I will also plaster the other (more on this in the following paragraphs of the instructions).
3. I cut the foam into the required parts using pre-removed surfaces. I advise you to leave small allowances. Subsequently, they can be easily trimmed with a blade or hacksaw. And if you miss by a smaller amount, you will have to throw out the entire part.

1. I glued the parts to the plastered and primed surfaces. To do this, I smear each part with glue and press it tightly to the desired place. After the glue has completely dried, you can finally trim the pieces of foam so that they perfectly match the size of the slope.

1. Then I attached special corners to the corners of the foam plastic, thanks to which, after finishing the work, the corners of the slopes will look perfect without additional effort in leveling. Such corners are sold in hardware stores and are inexpensive. Therefore, I see no reason to refuse to use them.

1. After that, I plastered and puttied the slopes on the inside of the window opening.
2. Then I primed the surfaces and painted them with paint. Selected White color, which is ideal for decorating window openings and matches the colors of plastic frames.
3. I decorated those parts of the slopes that face the main wall with wide plastic corners. But it’s better to finish them with the same material that was used to decorate them. It’s just that my grandmother had them covered with old wallpaper, and I considered this option to be optimal.

By the way, there are many options for decorative finishing of slopes insulated with foam plastic. You can not plaster them, but cover them with sheets of plasterboard, and then putty them.

Can be finished decorative plaster. Can be decorated with plastic panels. It all depends only on your imagination.

There is another finishing option if you decide to use drywall. In this case, you need to immediately cut out the parts from plasterboard and foam plastic, then glue them together, thereby obtaining decorative insulating panels, and then fix this whole “pie” on the wall.

But in any case, the drywall will also have to be puttied, primed and painted.

Method 2 – External thermal insulation

You already know that I am used to doing my job well, therefore, having taken on the insulation of window slopes in an old woman’s house in the village, I decided not to limit myself to working inside the house and to insulate the window opening from the outside.

Moreover, the villager’s house is not a high-rise building in the city, so I didn’t need to fence off scaffolding or call a lift. And as a result, I think the elderly woman will remember me more than once with a kind word when she finds out how much less coal she will need in the future to heat her home.

I’ll tell you what I did for external window insulation:

1. I cut off the remaining construction foam. By the way, it has already begun to partially crumble, since none of the installers who installed the windows explained to the village resident that the seal needs to be protected from exposure to sunlight, wind, water and other destructive factors.

1. Then I treated the surfaces with an antibacterial primer to avoid the appearance of mold and other unpleasant microorganisms.
2. From the outside, the surfaces of the grandmother's window opening were smooth (it is clear that the grandfather, who built the house, approached this matter with all possible responsibility). Therefore, there was no need to plaster anything.
   If your surfaces around the window have large unevenness and defects, plaster them using the technology that I have already described.

For external insulation I use extruded polystyrene foam. This is a thermal insulation material that differs from polystyrene foam in its greater mechanical strength. In addition, it is not destroyed by intense exposure to atmospheric moisture.

1. As with internal insulation, I cut out sheets of polystyrene foam, fitting them to the slopes of the window opening. Then I spread it with glue and applied it to the desired surfaces.

To make the insulation hold more firmly, I additionally secured the material with dowels with wide plastic caps. Expanded polystyrene, unlike polystyrene foam, does not crumble during finishing, so the described process will not cause much difficulty even for an untrained home craftsman.

1. I attached a specially purchased corner to the corners. It simplifies further decorative work and preserves the integrity of the decorative edging of the window opening.
2. Then I coated the installed heat insulator with a special adhesive composition, after which I laid the reinforcing fiberglass mesh. It will provide the required strength. Without it, the plaster mortar will quickly crack and fall off, since it will be constantly exposed to snow, wind, sun, and so on.

1. Plastered the outer slopes of the window. To do this, I used construction powder from which I made the solution. There is no need for special wisdom here; everything is done according to the standard procedure.

1. I puttyed the surfaces, making them smooth, and then painted them with white water-based emulsion.

In the end, everyone was happy, and I spent my country vacation with maximum benefit for society.

By the way, sometimes a situation arises when, despite insulation, condensation forms on the glass. In this case, I recommend installing a ventilation hole in the window block or under the window opening. It will help regulate the humidity level in the room.

Conclusion

So now you understand how to do it right insulated window slope helps keep the house warm and improve relationships with grandmothers in the village. If you are interested in additional information on the issue raised, you can read video in this article.

I will also be glad to hear from you stories about how you insulate windows and what material you use for this. Perhaps the technology you describe will help someone do insulation of slopes faster, cheaper and more efficient.

When a cold wind blows outside the window, you really want warmth in the house, but the problem arises of air blowing from the plastic windows. What reasons could there be? Are there ways to insulate? Every person asks these questions. If you have just recently installed plastic windows, then if there are obvious problems, you should call the specialist who did this work.

Why it blows from plastic windows: reasons

In order to find the cause of drafts, try to find a place where there is airflow. For this you will need a lighter or a regular candle.

Important!

Handle fire carefully. Do not bring it too close to the plastic, so as not to damage it. We run our hands along the entire perimeter of the frame, paying attention to: hinges, handles, sealing rubber and those places that come into contact with the window sill or wall.

There are several reasons for drafts from plastic windows:

• if the mode is not switched to winter, then the reason may be that the window sash is incorrectly adjusted;
• defects in window production are possible;
• if a low-quality seal was used during installation, especially if it is Chinese, since it loses its elasticity due to lower temperatures. Also check the degree of clogging of the seal. In this situation it will have to be changed. If the fittings are of poor quality, then they also need to be replaced;
• employees did not fulfill their obligations carefully enough;
• The reason may also be a lack of double-glazed windows and they simply are not suitable for your climate.

What to do if it's blowing from a plastic window

• One of the visible reasons for cold air may be a single-chamber window package that does not have an energy-saving function. What to do in this case: only changing the bags to warmer ones will help.
• If you have the feeling that air is blowing around the entire perimeter of the sash, then it is quite possible that the window has not been switched to winter time mode. To eliminate this problem, it is worth changing the mode; the sash will be pressed harder against the frame.

• If the installation of the window sill is not airtight enough, then there will be a possibility of a draft coming from there. To resolve the issue, you need to take the sealant and carefully walk along the seam of the window sill or completely reinstall it.
• If the “chill” comes from under the slopes, this may mean the absence of an element or the destruction of the assembly seam. This can happen 5 to 10 years after installation. What needs to be done: you will have to disassemble the slopes, then apply installation foam along the entire perimeter of the frame. Next, start reinstalling the slopes.
• If there is blowing from the window frame and/or the joint of the impost (there is a plastic partition in the window), then it is quite possible that this could be a defective product. This situation can be corrected by filling the crack from the outside with frost-resistant sealant.

• If it is blowing from the window hinges, then it is worth determining whether there are any unfilled holes in the sash and, if there are any, sealing them hermetically.
• Over time, the insulation shrinks and becomes less elastic. And the air that gets into these irregularities is a draft in the house. If, when adjusting the clamping force, there is still a “chill”, then most likely it is necessary to replace the insulation.

How to insulate plastic windows at home

It is worth doing the insulation of plastic double-glazed windows when it is still quite warm outside. This is due to the fact that in the summer-autumn period you will have to work in fairly comfortable conditions: optimal air humidity, at this time there is no draft, one of the most important advantages is that you can carry out repair work both inside and outside.

In addition, most construction materials are used only in certain temperature conditions. If weather conditions are not suitable, they may lose their properties.

How can you insulate plastic windows at home? The insulation of windows directly depends on the place where the air blows.

Window opening

In order to insulate a window opening, various materials and methods are used:

• The best option is polyurethane foam. So it has the property of expansion, thereby filling all the empty spaces in the glass opening, preventing the penetration of “chill”. Since it consists of 90 percent air. The disadvantages of foam are that it requires protection from sunlight, both at low and high temperatures. This may mean that it is not worth using on its own;

• Another insulation material is mineral wool. Pros: this is an excellent material for thermal insulation of both window sills and slopes inside. Cons: it has a less rich range of properties for window insulation;
• you can also insulate slopes using polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene;
• A fairly reliable material for eliminating drafts is silicone sealant;
• for external work when insulating plastic windows, dry mixtures are suitable;
• You can stick a layer of construction tape on top of the sealant. It can be used as a stand-alone material.

Window block

• To insulate the window unit, you can use a sealant;
• in some cases it is possible to use construction tape;
• sealant is also used to eliminate drafts;
• For better effect you can take heat-saving or energy-saving film;
• as well as mechanical effects, for example, you can tighten or adjust the fittings.

How to insulate plastic windows with your own hands

How to properly insulate windows with your own hands without dismantling:

• old foam that has crumbled must be removed using a stick, a stiff brush or brush; the remaining residue can be easily removed with a vacuum cleaner;
• then thoroughly wash the slopes and window sill using a cleaner to degrease the surfaces;
• Before foaming the cracks, it is worth going over with plaster or filling the damaged areas. Cover the top with paint and varnish material;
• if in your work you use sealant using a mounting gun, then after 7 minutes you need to seal the areas covered with construction tape;

• How to install heat-saving film correctly? To do this, you will need double-sided tape, a stationery knife, as well as a hair dryer and sharp scissors. To start work, you need to free the window frame from dust, then tape it around the entire perimeter. Since the film is folded in 2 layers, it is easy to separate it with a stationery knife. Measure the size of the window and do not forget that there is tape placed there, carefully and evenly cut the heat-saving film with scissors. Remove the top strip from the double-sided tape and glue the protective film over the entire frame.

Interesting!

At the end of the work, thoroughly dry the film with a hairdryer so that it is smooth and transparent.

How to insulate plastic windows from the outside

To prevent cold air from entering the house, it is first necessary to insulate the plastic windows from the outside. Due to the fact that insulation from the outside shifts the dew point, this is a preventive measure against fungus and the appearance of dampness.

On a note!

Naturally, covering up cracks with plaster is a temporary measure, since in any case, over time, the plaster will crack and the mounting foam underneath will begin to collapse due to temperature changes. But, as insulation, plaster is an excellent solution to the problem.

How to properly insulate the slopes of plastic windows from the outside:

• to start work, you need to prepare rigid insulation as a material;
• do not forget to clean the slopes of old foam and various contaminants;
• prime the insulated surface;
• Next you need to install the prepared insulation on the adhesive foam or glue solution. Builders recommend using foam, due to its quick drying and it holds the insulation sheet itself most strongly;
• seal all detected cracks with glue;
• Next, install pre-prepared perforated corners;
• also carry out installation work for installing polymer mesh;
• Upon completion of work, finish the insulated areas with plaster.

How to properly insulate ebb tides?

To insulate flashings at home, it is necessary to fill all the cracks with polyurethane foam or place thermal insulation material in problem and damaged areas.

Advice!

To prevent moisture from getting on the thermal insulation, install a metal strip of window sill on top. The bar must be installed at an angle of at least 50°. Treat the junction of the strip with the surface of the frame with sealant.

Internal insulation

When you finish external work, be sure to carry out internal insulation. Of course, slopes located indoors are not so susceptible to temperature changes, but here the appearance plays the main role.

• before the beginning repair work it is necessary to clean the cracks from dirt, and also remove old destroyed foam;
• apply primer to damaged surfaces;
• then, carefully seal the holes with polyurethane foam;
• after the foam has dried, remove excess;
• install materials for thermal insulation, for example cotton wool or polystyrene foam;
• then, install drywall;
• and at the end of the work, putty the drywall and paint it.

Internal insulation of window sill

Often, heat loss occurs due to gaps between the wall and the window sill. Before insulating the window sill, it is necessary to inspect and identify problem areas. Most often, cold air enters the house through parts of the plastic window and window sill. In this case, you will need a sealant.

On a note!

If heat loss occurs between the window sill and the wall, then before installing the window sill it is necessary to apply a layer of thermal insulation material. And after installation, you need to foam the distance that is between the wall and the window sill.

Replacing the rubber seal will also help eliminate the “chill.” Carrying out this procedure with your own hands is quite easy: remove the old rubber and simply insert a new seal.

There are several types of sealant: black and light. Black is much more reliable. But the gray one is stuffed with various additives, which makes it cheaper, but the quality leaves much to be desired.

Additional methods of insulation

• One of best methods Keeping your home warm is a matter of routine window cleaning.
• You can hang fairly thick and heavy curtains on the windows. They almost do not allow air to pass through and retain heat in the room.
• You can insulate windows using products that are at hand. Of course, the aesthetic appearance will be lost, but this is better than completely changing the window frames. Such materials are: window tape, wet paper, foam rubber, etc.
• You can also insulate your windows with heat-saving film. It reduces heat loss by approximately 75%. The film is glued to the entire surface of the window sash. It is important to glue this material carefully, avoiding folds and air bubbles.
• A fairly simple option is electric heating of a plastic double-glazed window. You can pre-install heated windows.
• And of course the most the best option, especially if you have a private house, do all of the above together.

When you can't do without a master

• If you have recently had windows installed, then the company is responsible for compliance with all the rules and functions of the plastic window (especially if you have a warranty period);
• if you live in an apartment building and your windows are located quite high. Since this is already work at height, it is strictly forbidden to carry out any work with insulation on your own. There are professionals for such matters;
• if there is a manufacturing defect. A defect or incorrect installation that you discovered before the end of the warranty;
• if you need any replacement of a part, it is better to contact specialists who will install fittings suitable for a given window;
• If in winter you find that plastic windows are blown out, then you need the help of a specialist. They will do everything quickly and efficiently.

But, unfortunately, calling a specialist to your home is equal to the cost of installing a plastic window, so it is cheaper to insulate plastic windows yourself.