Providing comfortable living in an apartment is possible only if all relevant systems are carefully planned. First of all, it is electricity, gas communications and water supply. It is about the distribution of water supply in the apartment that will be discussed further.

Types of plumbing

All installation work must be carried out after drawing up a wiring plan and calculating materials. This will help to significantly save time and reduce material costs. In appearance, two wiring options are distinguished: open and closed installation.

In the closed method of installing water pipes for laying highways, strobes are used - trenches hollowed out in the wall. It is in them that all pipes are installed. This method is considered the most expensive, but from a design point of view, it is preferable. Outside there are no traces of water pipes and unaesthetic connections. On the other hand, a possible leak of the system requires complex manipulations, and after its elimination, it is necessary to restore the integrity of the walls.

The open method in this regard is much more practical, because there is access to any point in the system without any extra effort. The disadvantages of this method are the unaesthetic appearance of the plumbing elements, as well as the reduction in usable area, which is not always appropriate for small rooms.

An open or closed way to install water pipes - you can decide for yourself by paying attention to the following facts:

• Hidden plumbing does not take up extra space, is aesthetically attractive and is considered a professional plumbing job.
• For small bathrooms and toilets, a closed way to install plumbing will be the only right solution ().
• Preventive inspections of the system are easier to do with an open pipe installation method.
• In the event of a fire, there is a chance that the communications will remain intact, which means a reduction in restoration costs.
• For beginners, it is better to use the open installation method, because you can quickly install and fix problems.
• For the installation of open water supply, the range of materials used is wider.
• Leaks in the system are easier to detect and fix with the open version of the water supply.
• The open form of the water supply system makes it possible to supplement the system with new consumers.

The choice of the preferred option should be consistent with each individual case. If you plan to do everything yourself, but the skills of such work are minimal, it is better to choose an open method. Small systems with a minimum number of consumers can be made in a closed or combined way, depending on the situation.

Helpful Hint: To hide unsightly pipes and fasteners, you can use bezels made of the right material. This method can be called optimal, because it has collected all the advantages of both options.

You can choose the appropriate type of "disguise" according to the overall design of the bathroom. Usually, traditional materials for such premises are used for this: ceramic tiles, moisture-resistant drywall and plastic panels.

Plumbing schemes in the apartment

In addition to the pipe installation method (), it is very important to determine in advance the preferred connection option for all consumers. There will be two outputs: serial and collector dilution of pipes. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages, so it is advisable to think through all the nuances in advance.

The second name of this method is the tee circuit, because tees are used to provide power to all consumers. It is thanks to these elements that all lines depart from the main pipe - the riser.

Installation of a tee circuit requires a minimum amount of materials and is not labor intensive. For beginners, this is the best option, since you can make a suitable scheme yourself. However, this type of connection also has a number of disadvantages:

• Many fasteners, which increases the risk of leaks and makes them difficult to detect.
• The simultaneous inclusion of several points of consumption creates a lack of pressure in the system, so the most distant point will be with a weak pressure.
• Repair work requires a complete shutdown of water, which is not always convenient.

The choice of a tee connection system is the best solution for small apartments, where pressure drops do not play a significant role. If the tee scheme is consistent with a closed type of communication, it is necessary to consider access points to each tee. This will allow you to carry out preventive maintenance and repair without additional costs and difficulties.

Collector wiring is carried out according to the principle of parallel connection. This provides the necessary distance from the main source - the riser. With the help of separate pipes, each source of consumption has its own wiring. Of course, with this connection, the need for materials greatly increases, but this method also has its advantages:

• constant pressure in the system.
• Elimination of leaks occurs when the water is partially turned off.
• Diagnosis and prevention of leaks is easier than with a serial connection.
• Relatively few fasteners, which ensures greater reliability of the system.

However, the method is not without drawbacks. Coupled with the aforementioned increase in material consumption, such a connection requires more skilled work. It will be problematic to carry out pipe routing on your own, and involving a specialist will increase the repair budget.

Instructions for self-wiring water pipes (video)

It is possible to lay the pipes of the water supply system to the wave with your own hands:

1. Draw a layout plan on paper . It should indicate the actual dimensions and all used water consumption points.
2. Choose the best piping option . You can use a combination of open and closed wiring methods.
3. Fulfill the ground rules . The wiring must be carried out taking into account such requirements: the pipes do not intersect and are located as close to each other as possible. In this case, it is desirable to choose the simplest scheme, without unnecessary connections and fasteners.
4. Install inlet valves (ball valves) . They are installed directly to the sources of hot and cold water supply to the apartment. This will help turn off the water if necessary. repair work, connection and replacement of individual elements of the system. Also study .
5. Run a separate water supply . It is performed when necessary, and is intended for consumption. In this section, it is necessary to mount deep filters.
6. Install counters ( ) . They are also mounted first. After them, pressure reducers are installed, which provide control of the water pressure to the devices used.
7. Installation of other elements of the system .

The direction of pipe laying can be selected both from the main riser and from each device. Along with the installation of plumbing, it is also necessary to carry out sewer outlets.

The video shows the piping of the water supply system and the end result of such work. For example, piping in a new building is used. The selected type of wiring is a collector circuit. In addition to laying pipes to consumers, the master describes how to install and mask water mains. Such a video instruction will definitely come in handy for novice plumbers, and some tips from a professional will help you avoid mistakes and loss of time when doing the work yourself:

Installation of the plumbing system of an apartment is a crucial part of arranging a new home. Properly executed wiring will ensure comfortable use and reliability of the system. The laying methods and instructions for self-installation of water pipes described above will help to carry out the installation work correctly.

Our topic today is water supply and distribution of cold and hot water. We have to find out what wiring schemes can be used in an apartment and a cottage, what pipes and fittings are used when installing a water supply system, and how plumbing fixtures are connected.

General rules

General rules for the distribution of water supply and sewerage of residential buildings are contained in SP 30.13330.2016.

Here are the key points in the rulebook:

• The temperature of hot water on plumbing fixtures should be within the range of 60-65 ° C, regardless of the method of its preparation (by selection from the heating network, heating in heat exchangers or local heating devices);

It is curious: in the SP 30.13330.2012, adopted only four years earlier, the maximum allowable temperature of hot water was indicated at + 75 ° С.

• The composition of water (including hot water) and its quality must meet the requirements of SanPiN 2.1.4.1074 "Drinking water";

• Lower quality water can be supplied to urinals and toilet cisterns;

Please note: this item is relevant mainly for owners of cottages with autonomous water supply systems. As far as the author of the article knows, there are no main water pipelines with non-potable water in our country, as a class.

• The maximum allowable water pressure on a plumbing fixture is 4.5 atmospheres. It can be increased to 6 atmospheres if a low-rise residential building is built in a multi-storey building. If the specified values ​​are exceeded, pressure control valves must be used;

By the way: the previous version of the joint venture set the minimum allowable pressure equal to that specified in the technical documentation of plumbing equipment (if such information is not available, it is equal to 20 meters, which corresponds to 2 atmospheres of pressure). In 30.13330.2016 there are no restrictions on the minimum head.

• Cold water pipes laid in shafts, niches, sanitary cabins and wet rooms must be insulated to prevent water condensation on their surface;

• The DHW system must provide for the circulation of water to maintain its stable temperature at the points of analysis;
• Water heated towel rails can be connected to the DHW circulation pipelines only if a bypass and shut-off valves are installed. Where this is not possible, water appliances are replaced by electrical ones;
• DHW pipes (except for connections) must be insulated to reduce heat loss;

• Horizontal wiring of the water supply system of a residential building should be carried out in basements, technical floors and attics. In their absence, it is permissible to lay pipes in underground channels along with pipelines heating system, under the flooring with a removable coating, as well as along the ceilings of non-residential premises on the top floor of the house;
• Risers and water inlets to apartments should be installed in shafts with the arrangement of technical cabinets with hatches for free access to them. Open wiring of risers along the walls of kitchens, baths, toilets and pantries is allowed;

• Water folding fittings (faucets, toilet bowls, etc.) can be connected to autonomous connections using an apartment manifold or to a common connection using tee connections;
• Threaded connections of steel pipelines must not be mounted hidden. The only exception is the corners and water sockets for mounting a wall mixer;
• It is possible to lay water and sewer pipes together only in passage channels, while the sewer pipe is attached below the pressure pipe;
• When laying DHW and cold water pipes together, the cold pipe is attached below the hot one;

• Horizontal distribution of cold water supply and hot water supply must be carried out with a slope of at least 0.002 (in cramped conditions - 0.001);

Hint: the slope will allow the water to drain completely during repairs and to prevent defrosting of the pipes. The instructions regarding the slope of the gasket only apply to inlets and fillings: connections to individual appliances can be fixed horizontally.

• Water can be diluted in rooms with a temperature not falling below +2°C. In colder rooms, water supply is supplied with cable heating or thermal support;

• close entrance doors, gates and pipes that open in the cold season must be thermally insulated;
• Fittings and pipes must comply with current hygiene standards;
• used in domestic water supply systems must serve at least 50 years at +20°C and 25 at +75°C and normal pressure;

It is curious: in the previous version of the document there was a clause according to which the hydraulic resistance of the pipeline could not change during its service life, which put an end to rusting gas pipes GOST 3262-75. There is no corresponding clause in SP 30.13330.2016; however, this does not cancel the ban on the use of gas pipes: they do not meet the standard service life of the water supply system.

• Inputs, risers of 3 floors and above, piping with 5 or more points of water analysis, piping to tanks and water heaters must be equipped with shutoff valves;

By the way: when connecting several DHW risers with a circulation jumper, each of them is supplied with taps at the base and on the top floor.

• installed at the entrance to the apartment or cottage after the valve or tap and filter, but before the water meter;

Note: The innovation was the refusal to install pressure gauges before and after the reducer (previously recommended) and adjust the reducer by the owner of the dwelling (it was not encouraged, but not forbidden).

• Check valves are needed in front of group mixers and at the connection of the water heater to the circulation pipeline. Previously, it was recommended to install the valve at the inlets to the apartment of hot and cold water in order to avoid the backflow of meters;

However: the water supplier who sells it to the homeowner still has the right to demand the installation of a meter with a check valve, but only after agreement with the local authorities.

• At the upper points of the DHW and cold water pipelines, there should be automatic air vents, and at the lower points - vents.

However: to bleed air and discharge water, it is not forbidden to use water folding fittings on the extreme floors.

Metering devices

• Entrances to buildings and their separate premises, which have their own owner or responsible tenant, are supplied with metering devices;
• The analysis of cold and hot water is taken into account separately;

Captain Evidence suggests: this does not apply to the preparation of hot water in individual water heaters. In this case, the homeowner receives only cold water from the main water supply and separately pays for the energy consumption of the electricity or gas meter.

• When installing meters on the DHW supply and circulation pipelines, the latter is equipped with a check valve;
• There must be a filter in front of each meter in the direction of water movement;
• General metering devices can be installed inside the building, in illuminated rooms with a temperature of +5 ° C and above, or in wells. In the latter case, meters are used that can operate during flooding;

• General water meters are supplied with shutoff valves before and after the meter, apartment (including single-family residential buildings) - only up to the meter.

Wiring types

So, what kind of piping can the water supply have?

Orientation

Vertical wiring includes risers and vertical connections, while horizontal wiring includes spills and horizontal connections. The vast majority of residential buildings use both types of water distribution for plumbing fixtures: in a typical apartment building after the water metering unit, the water enters the horizontal bottling and further into the vertical risers, and from there it is transported to the points of water intake along the horizontal pipes.

Basement and attic

The lower distribution of hot water supply is more typical for multi-apartment and private houses: one dead-end or two circulating bottlings are bred in the basement with its year-round positive temperature.

In most cases, cold water supply is also installed: the lower wiring in the basement or underground eliminates the defrosting of the bottling in the absence of water analysis.

An alternative is the installation of spills in the attic. A few words about the advantages of the upper wiring: water supply when water is supplied from a pressure tank is made non-volatile and is accompanied by minimal hydraulic losses.

In addition, if the house has an upper wiring, the hot water supply with circulation will not suffer from airing the jumpers between the risers: all the air will be forced out into the expansion tank at the top filling point in the attic and further into the atmosphere through an automatic air vent.

Dead end and circulation

In passing, we have already mentioned circulation and dead-end water supply schemes.

It's time to give a couple of clear definitions:

1. A dead-end system is called a system in which water comes into motion only during its analysis: it passes through the bottling, riser, eyeliner and plumbing fixture;
2. In the circulation scheme, the pressure difference or the operation of the pump ensures the continuous movement of water through the looped pipeline. This stabilizes the temperature of the water at the points of its analysis (remember how long it takes to drain the water in the mornings in the houses of the old fund?) And ensures the continuous operation of water heated towel rails.

Tees and manifolds

Serial (tee) wiring is common for residential buildings built in the last century: all water points are connected to one pipe through bends and tees. The obvious advantages of the solution are the possibility of open mounting and low material consumption.

Collector wiring is the connection of water points to the collector-comb with its own connections. Such water pipes are much more expensive than tee pipes and are only mounted hidden (imagine a dozen parallel pipes spread along the wall in the bathroom!), Which means laying only during construction or overhaul.

There are two pluses to the collector wiring:

1. If you fully open the DHW or cold water tap in the kitchen, then the ratio of cold and hot water pressure on the shower or bath mixer will remain unchanged. No one will be scalded or doused with ice water;
2. Disconnection of any device is possible from a single center - a manifold cabinet. This is very handy in a hostel or hotel: in an emergency, you can selectively turn off one consumer, even without having access to his premises.

Equipment

What pipes, fittings and fittings may be required for distributing water around a house or apartment with your own hands?

fittings

Here is her minimum set:

Image	Description
	Ball Valves. They are the most reliable and problem-free type of valves, do not require maintenance and are available for many types of connections - threads, socket welding, etc.
	mechanical filter. In most cases, a single filter is installed at the inlet immediately after the tap; it protects the internal water supply from large suspensions, debris and sand. The presence of a filter is especially important if you use plumbing with ceramic closures: trying to close the water when the cockbox or cartridge plates are jammed with sand will cause irreversible damage.
	Water meter. SP 30.13330.2016 prescribes the use of devices with a pulse output, which allows dispatching equipment to control water flow in real time. With a water consumption of 10 cubic meters per day or less, the diameter of the meter should be 15 mm.

In addition to the listed equipment, the following can be used in internal water supply systems:

Image	Description
	. It is used to organize autonomous water supply from shallow (up to 9-25 meters, depending on the presence or absence of an external ejector) sources and is a set of a surface pump, a pressure switch that controls it and a membrane tank.
	It is used to supply water from a deep well or artesian well. On clean water vortex and multistage pumps are used. Cheaper vibrating ones have a small overhaul resource and contribute to silting of wells and wells.
	(a steel tank divided by an elastic membrane into air and water compartments) allows you to create a supply of water and give it to the water supply system with a sufficiently large pressure.
	The expansion tank, which is identical to the accumulator in its design, can compensate for the increase in the volume of water in a closed circuit when its temperature rises.
	The safety valve duplicates the function of the expansion tank, dumping excess water into the drain when the critical pressure is exceeded.
	The pressure switch turns the pump on and off depending on the level of water pressure in the internal network.
	The non-return valve passes the working medium in only one direction, excluding counterflow. In the water supply of apartments and cottages, spring valves are used, less often ball valves.
	The fine filter allows you to remove fine impurities from the water and most of the salts, lime and iron oxides dissolved in it.
	The pressure reducer stabilizes it at a given level and is mounted on the water supply inlet.
	The hydraulic shock absorber eliminates short-term increases in pressure during a sudden stop in the circulation in the DHW system or when the cold water supply is quickly filled.
	An automatic air vent prevents the DHW circulation from being disturbed by air pockets.
	The thermomixing unit provides temperature control in the circulation circuit by mixing hotter or colder water into it. It can have a built-in or remote temperature sensor, be non-volatile or powered by an electrical network.
	The circulation pump, as the name implies, is responsible for the circulation of water in the hot water supply.

Fittings, pipes

The modern market offers the buyer two main types of pipes:

1. metal;
2. polymer and composite.

The first are exceptionally resistant to high temperatures and water hammer. The latter cannot boast of such high reliability: at temperatures above 90-100 ° C, both the resistance to hydrostatic pressure and the life of the pipe fall catastrophically.

And now let's remember in what conditions your water supply will have to serve.

In a cottage with autonomous water supply, in a centralized cold water supply system, one or apartment building, as well as on hot water supply, when water is heated in a heat exchanger or an individual heat generator, the probability of pressure and temperature deviation from normal values ​​is practically absent. There you can safely mount polymer and metal-polymer water pipes.

But in hot water systems with water supplied directly from the heating main (that is, in most Soviet-built houses), the picture is not so cloudless:

• Malfunction of fittings or a low level of qualification of a locksmith serving the house can lead to water hammer. For its occurrence, it is enough to quickly close the valve or valve in the thermal chamber or elevator unit;

• If the DHW is not switched from the supply to the return pipeline in time, the water supply system may be subjected to unscheduled tests: the temperature of the heating main supply in winter can reach +150 ° C. The reaction to such overheating of pipes designed for operation at 60-90 degrees is quite predictable;

• The same result will lead to a malfunction of the DHW valves during the annual temperature test of the heating main.

That is why in a house with elevator nodes, we strongly recommend installing only and exclusively metal water pipes.

In stores, you can find three types of relevant materials:

Image	Description
	Galvanized steel pipes GOST 3262-75. Unlike black gas, they are not subject to corrosion and suffer much less from the formation of deposits on the inner walls. The disadvantages of galvanizing the author would include time-consuming installation with precise adjustment of the size of the nozzles and exclusively on threaded connections: welding deprives the pipes of all its advantages over black steel, burning the zinc coating.
	GOST 617-2006. They have bactericidal properties, bend (however, with a sufficiently large bending radius) and boast a destructive pressure of 200 or more atmospheres. The lack of material is its price (from 250 rubles / meter). To connect the elements of the water supply, socket soldering, compression fittings and fittings with deformable sleeves are used.
	Corrugated stainless pipes have a tensile strength of 200-210 atmospheres with a wall thickness of 0.3 mm versus 0.8-1 mm for a copper pipe. The lower material consumption has a very pleasant effect on the cost: a 15 mm pipe costs the buyer 105-150 rubles per meter. The service life of pipes is unlimited; silicone seals of compression fittings must be replaced after three decades of service.

Let's move on to plastic and metal-plastic.

Image	Description
	PPR pipes (polypropylene) are the undisputed market leader in terms of cheapness: a meter of a 20 mm pipe without reinforcement costs 20-40 rubles. Polypropylene water supply wiring is typical for all new buildings. Union soldering is used to connect pipes and equally inexpensive fittings.
	- low-temperature (long-term operating temperature - up to 40 ° C) and are used mainly for the installation of water supply inlets from the main water supply or an autonomous source. Pipes are connected to fittings and to each other by compression, less often by electrofusion fittings. Butt welding is used for pipelines with a wall thickness of 4 mm or more.
	PEX polyethylene differs from ordinary polyethylene by side bonds between long molecules that change its physical and chemical properties: cross-linked polyethylene can withstand heating up to 70-110°C, has a higher strength compared to ordinary PE and boasts a unique property - shape memory. It is used mainly for collector distribution of water and underfloor heating systems, mounted on fittings and compression joints.
	PERT polyethylene is produced by introducing copolymers into the original polymer and has properties similar to PEX (minus molecular memory). Coupling welding and compression fittings are used to connect pipes.
	Metal-plastic - these are two shells made of PERT or PEX with an aluminum tube glued between them. The metal core somewhat increases the tensile strength of the pipeline and gives it rigidity. For installation, push-, press-fittings and products with deformable tongs sleeves are used.

Flexible eyeliners

Flexible hoses are needed, first of all, for connecting household and sanitary equipment to the water supply.

Only two of their varieties deserve a hotel commentary:

• Metal corrugated hoses. In fact, they are a piece of corrugated pipe with flared ends and union nuts on them. This is a “set it and forget it” class solution: as we remember, the service life of stainless steel is unlimited;

• Metal braided hoses with PEX cores. If their predecessors with a rubber core served no more than five years, then products based on cross-linked polyethylene will require replacement in at least half a century.

Conclusion

We hope that familiarity with the types of water distribution, plumbing equipment and materials used will help the reader choose the best solution for himself. The video in this article will tell you more about what a water supply wiring diagram can be. Good luck!

The layout of water supply pipes in modern houses and apartments is considered in detail, the open and closed method of pipe installation is described. The requirements for the pipeline are presented, the use of the collector and its types are considered.

Repair of the bathroom of a private house, apartment or cottage begins with the installation of pipes and connecting plumbing. The layout of water supply and sewerage pipes is a very important and responsible task for every homeowner. The interaction of various plumbing elements and devices form the water supply and sewerage system of a house or apartment. (See also: How to connect the boiler correctly)

For the installation of the pipeline, the exact dimensions and parameters of all plumbing fixtures are required. This is necessary in order to avoid errors with the installation angles when installing the sink, bathtub and toilet bowl. After the location of all devices has been determined, the process of chasing the walls should proceed, during which it should be borne in mind that the chasing must be carried out at a sufficient depth so that the pipes can easily fit into it. Example: with a pipe diameter of 20 mm, the required diameter of the groove is 25 mm. It is worth noting that the collector wiring provides for a wider shtraba.

Figure 1: Water supply piping

The distribution of water supply pipes can be performed both in an open and closed way. Each method has both pros and some cons. Both installation schemes are reliable, but, given the nuances and features in maintenance and operation, they differ. Reliable performance of communications is ensured by the strength of modern pipes and fittings. Externally mounted pipes can be neatly hidden, while leaving access to them (if necessary) without unnecessary destruction.

Hidden way to install water pipes

The advantage of this type of installation is that it looks more aesthetically pleasing. But if there is a need for repairs, opening the walls will be inevitable. The coating will be destroyed with the subsequent repair of the walls, regardless of whether it is tiles or other finishing materials. It is quite convenient to install sensors responsible for leaks, since information about possible problems will be received in a timely manner. (See also: Open water system)

Figure 2: Concealed pipe installation

Open method of installing water supply pipes

This method is more unpretentious in terms of maintenance. All additional connections are made fairly quickly. If it is necessary to rearrange plumbing fixtures in the bathroom or redevelop the room, you should use the external method of installing water supply pipes. In addition, this type of installation promptly makes it clear that a leak has occurred, which will contribute to its urgent elimination.

Figure 3: Open pipe installation

Difficulties in choosing pipes

Pipes made of polypropylene, as well as metal-plastic pipes, are the most common at present. All of them differ in external design and reliability of operation. The advantage of metal-plastic pipes is that they can be laid in the most inaccessible places, since they are quite light. The distribution of water supply pipes made of polypropylene has its advantages: they are even and look quite restrained and aesthetically pleasing when laid in an open way. But, given the already established infrastructure of the premises, polypropylene pipes cannot be used in hard-to-reach places.

In difficult places, entry into an existing water supply system can be done using metal-plastic pipes, while it is almost impossible to do this with polypropylene pipes due to the overall equipment that is used during their installation. The layout of water supply pipes made of polypropylene is more expensive than that of metal-plastic, since the labor costs for the process of installing polypropylene pipes are much higher. (See also: Apartment water supply)

Figure 4: Polypropylene pipes

Advice! New branches are easier to connect to a metal-plastic pipe.

collectors

Recently, collectors have been massively used, which distribute water from the main pipeline to plumbing fixtures (showers, faucets, to the toilet). This type of device comes with four, three and two outputs. If there are more than four consumer points, then collectors are used, while the required number of drainage systems are intertwined.

Figure 5: Manifold

The collector is convenient to use for minor repairs in the kitchen or bathroom, when you need to disconnect only one plumbing fixture from the system. In addition, it reduces the load on the main connections and pipes during the distribution of water. Also, when using a collector, there is no need to install additional tees that distribute the movement of water flow in the system.

Important! Collectors are installed on pipes of cold and hot water only after pressure reducers and filters for water purification are connected. (See also: How to make a water heater with your own hands)

Differences in piping from different materials

As a rule, the switchgear is made from chrome-plated brass of a sufficiently high quality: Italian, German or Czech manufacturers. The layout of water supply pipes in an apartment using a metal-plastic pipeline and wiring with galvanized (steel) pipes differ not only in the quality of the material used, but also in better cross-country ability, corrosion resistance, and durability in operation.

Figure 6: Distribution of water pipes in the apartment

The advantage of collector installation is the possibility of switching off each consumer individually, while obtaining a much lower pressure drop. In practice, this can be seen when the pressure of hot water in the shower drops sharply, as a result of the fact that the washing machine or other plumbing fixture has turned on.

Pipeline Requirements

There are several basic requirements for the pipeline:

1. Pipes must be made of a material that does not corrode;
2. The wear resistance of the pipeline must be high;
3. The pipes should not have threaded connections that are hidden in the wall.

Features of pipe installation

Pipe installation should be carried out following the sequence of actions. In order to replace old metal pipes with new plastic counterparts during wiring, you must first turn off the water supply. Then you should take up the process of dismantling the old pipes, and using special fittings of the appropriate size, install new plastic pipes, and then connect the necessary plumbing fixtures.

Figure 7: Piping layout

Do-it-yourself wiring of water supply pipes is also possible, but as practice shows, the plumbing services of a master are much cheaper than the process of correcting their mistakes. You should pay attention to useful tips for those who began to do everything with their own hands:

• the pipe that enters the apartment must be of a larger diameter than the one inside the apartment;
• the use of filters will help keep the faucets from debris and rust in the water;
• shut-off valves should be used from well-known manufacturers;
• do not save on pipes;
• it is necessary to check the water pressure and, if necessary, increase the pressure.

Concealed installation uses pipes and fittings of a certain type. Today, the collector type of pipe installation is becoming more common. This installation provides for the process of individual laying of water pipes made of foam or metal-plastic. Such a system is relevant for large apartments, where there are more than two bathrooms and one riser, as well as in cases where there are many consumers at the same time.

HomeSite map

There are two types of tubular manifold and parallel.

Before you start drawing up the layout of the pipeline and the position of the water distribution points, you must determine what equipment is intended for installation:

Kitchen - cold and hot water faucet, dishwasher, boiler, gas boiler, gas columns

Bathroom — shower, bathtub, washbasin, bidet, toilet, washing machine, water heater.

Even if on this moment there is no money, for example, a shower cabin, it is better to think about the conclusions for connecting it in advance.

Consistent distribution of water.

Serial wiring is also called tee cables. mounted with one line, and wiring from a common pipe to plumbing equipment is carried out using boots and corners.

The disadvantage of this wiring is that you cannot block individual connections and the likelihood that the overall water pressure will decrease if several plumbing devices are working.

Pros - Easy and quick installation, not much of the component cost compared to manifold wiring.



Consistent distribution of water pipes

(red shows hot water distribution, blue shows cold).



Installation of polypropylene pipes and seaweed installation.

Distribution of pipelines for distribution to collectors

Most often, such wiring is installed where it is planned to hide pipes for plaster or decorative plates, pipes underground, or punch it in a concrete screed.

The advantage of collector wiring is that each consumer (plumbing device) is a separate line separating it from a conventional collector.

Water distribution in a dwelling - comparison of tee and manifold schemes

Thanks to this separation, you can block one point at any time without damaging other devices. In this separation, there is a constant distribution of water, so that the pressure (head) is equal at all points.

The only disadvantage of such a system is the price, which includes a large number of pipes and fittings and collectors (distributor combs) with shut-off valves.



Water supply - bicycle.



Collection of hot and cold water with shut-off valves,water filters, pipes with copper tube.

Choice of fit material

The choice of materials depends on how the installation is installed, how the pipes will be laid - closed or hidden, ease of installation, for example.

the ability of the work itself. Price is also an important factor.

Many sources still indicate that the plumbing may be made of metal, but it is worth saying that it was yesterday.

And there are many good durable materials in the market for sanitary ware, which are easy to install, durable, reliable, harmless, i.e., ideal for drinking water supply and have a very pleasant appearance.

Below is a table with the comparative characteristics of pipes used in a water supply installation.

Installation of water pipes

Although there are two different connection schemes, in practice the serial scheme is used or combined in serial mode.

The simplest materials in connection with the installation of plumbing are polypropylene, metal plastics, pipes made of alternating polyethylene and copper.

Open plumbing - pipes move along the walls.

Polypropylene pipes are most often used with open installation.

Hidden installation of plumbing - pipes are laid in solid and hidden plaster, in a concrete screed, in the subway.

The water pipeline starts from the entry point, for example, a water supply source - a pumping station, an accumulator, a pressure tank, a central water supply.

The entire supply pipe, in order to have the least pressure loss, must be at least one inch in diameter.

Water filter and shut-off valve are mandatory.

Then the pipeline is installed in accordance with the selected scheme, for example. pipes in the bathroom, in the kitchen, laundry. If the installation of the hose starts in the basement, and the boiler is installed in the same place, a separate nest for the boiler is made.

In case of installing a series, if it is not planned to hide it with decorative plates and a channel, it is recommended that the tubes be placed above the plate from 15 to 30 cm.

In this way, the pipes will be barely visible, while in rooms hidden by sanitary equipment.

When laying walls and ceilings, pipes must be protected from damage.

For this purpose, a body or a special cuff is placed in the hole.

Pipes are fixed with special clamps, plastic and metal clamps.

Installation with polypropylene pipes

It will be necessary - nozzle soldering device; pipe cutter; calibrator; equipment - plugs, couplings, knees, transitions, locks; Clamps corresponding to the diameter of the pipe (required for fastening pipes along the walls); pipes with a diameter of 1 inch and ¾.

It is best to use a ¾ pipe to supply water to sanitary equipment in a private house.

This is due to the fact that the marking of polypropylene pipes is the outer diameter. For example, if the tube is 1 inch, this does not mean that the inside diameter will be the outside diameter, so the inside passage will be significantly narrower due to the wall thickness.

The compensator is not needed for the plumbing system.

Installation is carried out in series. Pipes are easy to cut and solder. The cutting part of the pipe must be calibrated and cleaned with internal blades using a knife.

After soldering, it is necessary to form a kind of shoulder.

For couplings made of polypropylene with pipes made of other materials and for the installation of algae, combined equipment with metal threads is used.



Pipes and fittings made of polypropylene.



Installation with metal plastic pipes

Such pipes are carried out both in open and closed installations.

When it's open, you can use fasteners (no fill) and clamp (compact).

When you hide, just click the accessories.

This is due to the fact that the clamping elements gradually expand, and the key must be twisted with the key.

For installation it is necessary - pipes 1 inch and 3¾; accessories - corners, couplings, adapters, shoes, transitions; pipe cutter; calibrator; presses for presses (they can be hired); wrench for fastening fittings.

Metal plastic pipes are sold in long coils, so it is advisable to use only one pipe when laying pipes under screed or plaster.



Installation of connectors with threaded connections.



Pipes and fittings for fastening.

Installation of copper pipes

This is necessary - pipes ¾ and ½ cm (copper pipes have thin walls); gas-burner; Wire for metal and metal brush for recycling; flux paste; soldering; equipment - adapters, corners, transitions, shoes, couplings, seaweed.

Installation of soldered joints.

The end of the pipe and inside the fixture is immersed in a thin layer of flow

The unit is installed on the hose until it stops

The connection is heated until the color of the tube changes.

In the core of the solder, measure a length equal to the diameter of the pipe and make a cut.

As the joint heats up, the solder is drawn into the groove between the tube and the nozzle, cutting it over the notch.

Not everyone can handle food on their own.

To connect copper pipes, special pressing elements are also used, which are glued together using a special tool.

Pipes and fittings.

Press Attachment.

Soldering copper pipes.

An open tube is not used for open laying of pipes, for hidden pipes - annealed (slightly bent).

Installation with interleaved polyethylene pipes

These pipes are simple and easy to install, but it will be necessary - a special test tool for the installation of striped polyethylene pipes, which can be found; pipe cutter; calibrator; brass or PPSU (polyphenylsulfone) fittings - forks, couplings, adapters, squares; pipes with a diameter of 3/4.

Set links.

Hose mounted on sliding sleeve

Using a pressure tool, the sleeve is stretched to the pipe connection - the connection as a whole is very strong.

Such compounds can be introduced under the screed or plaster.

When choosing pipes made of interleaved polyethylene, attention should be paid to their marking, i.e.

suitability for drinking water supply.

Pipes and fittings.

And another very important point, which must be noted after the water supply system is ready, the choice and purchase of material is quality!

There is no need to store and buy cheap pipes and accessories of dubious quality.

The water supply system must be reliable, durable, strong and tight. And this applies not only to hermetic gaskets, but also to open installations.

Materials must be purchased from specialized stores that provide a guarantee for the goods and provide a certificate of quality for all products.

9.02.2013 at 21:02

A typical wiring diagram for a bathroom in an apartment

The performance of the equipment connected to the water supply system depends on the correct installation.

It is important to choose the right water supply scheme for the apartment, which will ensure timely water supply from the central water supply to all points of analysis.

At the same time, it is necessary to ensure sufficient water pressure for the correct operation of all plumbing equipment and household appliances.

At the moment, two main schemes for distributing the water supply system are used. One of them is called sequential or tee, the second - collector.

In this article, we will consider the device and the principle of operation of these engineering structures.

Collector scheme - features and device

Collector wiring diagram

Recently, there has been an increase in the use of plumbing fixtures in various apartments.

It is necessary to ensure their normal functioning, therefore, more and more often they choose a collector wiring diagram for water supply systems.

At the same time, the installation of water supply in an apartment according to this scheme is considered the most difficult and expensive.

However, such a scheme initially eliminates the pressure drop at individual points of water consumption. As a result, there are no problems with the use of plumbing fixtures for their intended purpose at the same time.

Why is this happening? An individual pipe is laid to each point of water consumption; if desired, it can be blocked and maintenance or repair of a specific connected device can be carried out.

The collector scheme of water supply consists of the following components:

Cold water riser (SHV);
2. A crane used to shut off the SSH;
3. Pressure reducers and SHV filters.
4. Distributor-collector SHV.
5. Shut-off valve used to stop the supply of cold water to the water heater.
6.

water heating component.
7. Shut-off valve used to stop the supply of hot water to the water heater;
8. Hot water riser (SHW).
9. SGV main valve.
10. Pressure reducers and SGV filters.
11. Distributor-collector SGV.
12.

Stopcocks that shut off the hot water supply to the towel dryer in the bathroom;
13. All kinds of plumbing fixtures.

From the foregoing, one can easily make an idea of ​​the basic principle of the collector wiring of the water supply system.

In it, each individual water consumer is connected directly to the cold water riser collectors and valves through a separate pipe.

At the same time, such pipes do not have branches and any other connections throughout their entire section, and this reduces the likelihood of leaks to zero.

This system has two connections available for repair and maintenance: a pipe - a collector and a pipe - a water consumer.

Advantages of the collector system

Among the advantages are the following:

• Hidden installation of pipes generally improves the appearance in the apartment;
• A small number of connections ensures reliability;
• Taking into account the features of a separate plumbing fixture when protecting it - installing filters and gearboxes that ensure timely uninterrupted supply of the required volume of water and the level of pressure in the risers necessary for normal operation;
• Complete shutdown or regulation of an individual device using a valve installed at the outlet of the collector to the supply pipe;
• Ease of repair and maintenance.

In addition - sometimes it makes sense to install cleaners and filters.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the installation scheme:

Comprehensive water treatment for the home

Sequential (tee) circuit - features and device

Series wiring diagram

Made according to the tee scheme, the water supply system in the apartment is the simplest, cheapest and most unpretentious option for carrying out engineering communications.

In the houses of the old housing stock, it is most often found precisely with it.

However, today's builders often do not forget about it today.

The installation of main pipelines in accordance with the tee wiring diagram, through which both hot and cold water supply to the apartment is carried out, is carried out in a parallel way.

At the same time, with the help of tees, any plumbing fixture is connected to the pipes.

That is why this scheme is called a tee.

The provided scheme assumes the presence of a common part of the mains for several water consumers, from which there are multiple branchings connected using tees.

The main pipe plays the role of an elongated collector. It, in comparison with others that depart from it and go directly to each plumbing fixture, should have a larger diameter.

By the way: Consistent - ideal for distributing water in an ordinary apartment with one bathroom and a small number of installed plumbing fixtures.

Advantages and disadvantages of a serial circuit

The advantages of serial include:

• Saving pipes;
• Small material costs associated with laying;
• Ease of installation and simplicity of the project.

However, it also has many disadvantages:

• The difficulty of finding leaks, because there are many branches, besides, they are scattered throughout the system in a mess;
• In the case of a large number of connections to plumbing fixtures, a decrease in pressure at consumption points and a drop in total pressure are possible;
• The inability to selectively turn off the water supply to a separate device, for this you need to shut off the entire riser at the inlet;
• It is impossible to provide a convenient and quick access to all pipes and connections, because they are mostly hidden in the wall or under the floor;
• In the event of a gust, to eliminate the accident, it will be necessary to violate the decoration of the room, which means that there are additional costs for subsequent repairs.

Remember: If the piping in the apartment is carried out by professionals who pay attention to the quality of the materials used, who follow the procedure and technology for the implementation of plumbing work, then the likelihood of accidents and leaks is minimal.

In serial wiring, which is professionally installed, the possibility of pressure drops is excluded.

We also suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video in which the author tells in detail about the distribution of water in the apartment and gives useful tips.

When developing a water supply project for an apartment, it is first necessary to determine according to which scheme the pipes will be laid.

The decision should be made taking into account the most optimal operating conditions for plumbing equipment at this facility.

The device of engineering communications should be calculated and designed by specialists.

Here it is important to carry out the installation correctly, which must be carried out in accordance with the developed technical documentation and relevant building technologies.

Compliance with all requirements, norms and rules when laying engineering systems will ensure reliable operation of both individual plumbing fixtures and the entire water supply system as a whole.

metal pipes
Plastic pipes for plumbing
Polyethylene pipes
Polypropylene pipes
Metal pipes - which are better
The diameter of the pipes for the water supply in the apartment
The nuances of installing a water supply

The choice of pipes for water supply is a very important issue that must be addressed when arranging the system in an apartment or private house. There are a lot of requirements for pipes: they must be durable, reliable, affordable and easy to install.

These requirements are fully consistent with metal and plastic pipes. Both options have a fairly extensive range, so the choice of the optimal material suitable for a particular situation is quite possible. This article will discuss which pipes are best for plumbing in an apartment.

metal pipes

One of the main disadvantages of metal pipes is too much weight, which causes difficulties that arise during the transportation and installation of products. Installation of pipes is carried out using one-piece (welding or soldering) and detachable threaded connections. The use of a detachable connection simplifies the further repair of the system due to the ease of replacing damaged parts of the structure.

It is extremely unprofitable to use ordinary steel pipes in a water supply system - this material has practically no resistance to corrosion, so the pipeline begins to rust.

In addition to the fact that because of this the system will begin to collapse at an accelerated pace, the water in the tap will also have a characteristic color and taste of rust.

When transporting water, steel pipes quickly begin to leak and lose their tightness, so they have to be changed.

Another negative factor associated with rust is plaque on the inner surface of the pipeline, due to which its throughput is reduced.

So it turns out that with high mechanical strength and heat resistance, it is undesirable to use steel pipes for arranging water pipes.

A completely different matter is galvanized pipes for plumbing. The cost of such pipes is an order of magnitude higher than the cost of steel products, but it is clearly justified.

The most important advantage of galvanized steel is its resistance to corrosion, which eliminates most of the disadvantages associated with this factor. However, a lot of weight is also inherent in this type of pipe, so their installation cannot be called simple.

The best option for metal pipes for plumbing are copper products.

They are distinguished by a very high cost and a considerable number of advantages. The service life of copper pipes is quite high, as is safety (although there is a nuance associated with the appearance of copper oxides, but this phenomenon does not occur in every case). Also, this material is inherent in the complexity of installation, traditional for metal pipes - soldering copper pipes cannot be attributed to simple processes.

Plastic pipes for plumbing

A modern alternative to metal products is plastic pipes, which have a lot of advantages and advantages over more traditional steel counterparts.

In particular, polymer products are light in weight, which simplifies transportation and installation, and are distinguished by good performance and low cost.

There are two main types of plastic pipes used in plumbing:

• Polyethylene;
• Polypropylene.

It is worth considering both types in more detail.

Polyethylene pipes

One of the materials used for the manufacture of plastic pipes is cross-linked polyethylene, which, due to a special production technology, has increased strength characteristics without loss of flexibility and elasticity.

There are also low pressure HDPE pipes, but they are not very suitable for use in an apartment.

Cross-linked polyethylene pipes are an excellent material for arranging cold and hot water supply in an apartment.

This material can work at a temperature of the transported medium up to +95 degrees, which is quite enough for a water supply system. Read also: “Which pipes are best for water supply - we make the right choice.”

Besides, given value is not limiting - the destruction of polyethylene pipes begins only if the water temperature exceeds +110 degrees.

An important quality of polyethylene pipes is their plasticity. The water supply system assembled from such pipes does not collapse even when freezing, which is especially important for private houses. In apartments, flexibility is more relevant, which allows you to give the pipeline the desired shape.

Layout of water pipes in the apartment - what are the schemes?

Polypropylene pipes

If the budget allocated for construction is not too large, then polypropylene pipes will be a good option for arranging a water supply system. They are cheaper than other polymer products, and in some places they even surpass them in terms of characteristics: the operating temperature of polypropylene is +95 degrees, and the pressure is up to 20 atmospheres.

In addition, it is worth noting the service life, which on average is about 50 years.

The disadvantage of polypropylene products is the lack of plasticity, therefore, installation of the pipeline at an angle is possible only with the help of appropriate fittings. Permanent connections of such pipes are carried out using a special soldering iron.

In any case, before purchasing, you need to carefully understand which propylene pipes are best for plumbing, and prepare the equipment necessary for installation.

Metal pipes - which are better

A rather modern and interesting material used for laying water lines is metal-plastic pipes, which combine the main advantages of metal and plastic products.

High performance is provided by a multilayer material structure, which includes a polymer and a reinforcing layer of aluminum foil. See also: "Metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes - which is better, advantages and disadvantages of materials."

The heat resistance of metal-plastic pipes varies depending on the technology of their production. Pipes that are marked in blue are suitable for transporting water whose temperature does not exceed 30 degrees, and white pipes are designed for use in hot water systems.

The main disadvantage of metal-plastic products is the difference in thermal expansion of different layers of the pipe. When working in conditions of temperature differences, such pipes can be deformed, so they require stability.

This factor must be taken into account when choosing water pipes for hot water supply. See also: "The advantages of metal-plastic pipes for water supply and installation rules."

Compression fittings of various types are used for the installation of a metal-plastic pipeline.

Connections with ferrule fittings can only be made in an open way to allow access to the area for regular tightening of the fitting.

The diameter of the pipes for the water supply in the apartment

The choice of pipes for water supply in an apartment is not limited to the choice of material for their manufacture - you also need to choose the right diameter for the products. The correct choice of pipe diameter will allow you to create a reliable and functional system (for more details: "How to choose a pipe diameter for a water supply system, depending on the length of the system and its characteristics").

Of course, increasing the diameter of the pipes entails an increase in the cost of the system, while a pipe that is too narrow will not have sufficient capacity.

It will be best to find a “golden mean” and choose pipes of the optimal diameter for a particular situation.

It is necessary to calculate the diameter of the water supply in the apartment, taking into account the initial pressure and the degree of its decrease along the entire length of the system.

A conventional pressure gauge is suitable for measuring inlet pressure, but even if it is not available, approximate values ​​\u200b\u200bare obtained. For example, if in apartments three floors above the pressure is normal, then the inlet pressure is at least two atmospheres.

The change in pressure in the pipeline is influenced by:

1. Number of different connections and fittings.
2. The total length of the system.
3. The presence and number of turns.

The pressure in the pipeline cannot be lower than 0.6 atmospheres, and the pressure, taking into account normal delivery to the farthest point of the system, must have a double margin.

If, considering these factors, 12 mm plastic pipes are installed, then the only result will be a guaranteed decrease in the performance of the system.

Pipes with a diameter of 16 mm are much better suited - they will be enough for the normal operation of the water supply without loss of performance. To accurately calculate metal or ceramic-metal pipes for water supply, special formulas are used, but they are quite complex, so they are used only by specialists in the industry.

The layout of the pipeline in the apartment may well be carried out according to the standard scheme:

1. Pipes most often used as risers are 1 or ¾ inch (25 and 20 mm) diameter pipes.
2. Direct piping is carried out using ½ or 3/8 inches (15 and 10 mm).

When choosing the diameter of water pipes for an apartment, the following points should be considered:

• The inner diameter of polypropylene pipes is not directly related to the outer diameter (a half-inch pipe can have a clearance of 11 to 13 mm);
• The dimensions indicated in inches do not reflect the throughput of the pipes, which is especially important when arranging a pipeline that includes both metal and plastic elements;
• Before installing polypropylene pipes, you need to study the technology of their welding, which will require the appropriate instructions.

The nuances of installing a water supply

Knowing what water pipes are made of, you can get an idea about the installation features of each material:

1. Plastic pipes are much more convenient and profitable.

   For them, there is a considerable number of fittings, so the choice is quite extensive. The tightening of threaded connections in this case does not require serious efforts, which greatly simplifies the work. The one-piece method of connecting pipes will ensure the tightness of the structure with minimal labor costs for installation.

2. To mount a pipeline from metal parts, you will need special equipment: steel pipes are connected by welding, and soldering kits are needed for copper products.

   If the connection is threaded, then it is imperative to use seals.

Conclusion

For water supply systems, you can use a variety of pipes, the choice of which directly depends on the operating conditions of the system and its features. There are metal and plastic pipes, the characteristics of which allow you to assemble any pipeline. When the question of which pipe is needed for the water supply is closed, it remains only to choose the optimal pipe diameter for a particular situation.

We do the installation of plumbing in a private house on our own

The water supply system is necessary to create normal living conditions. Therefore, during the construction of a house, even at the design stage, the installation of water supply and sewerage is provided.

If, for some reason, there is no running water in a private house, you can do it yourself, without resorting to the expensive services of professional specialists. Today, you can easily purchase all the necessary components for the water supply system.

If there is a centralized water supply in the village where you live, then connecting your house to it will not be difficult.

But if there is no central water supply, then another source of water will have to be found. The source of water supply can be a well, a well, a river or a spring.

Water supply in the country

Water supply scheme for a private house

A typical water supply scheme for a private house includes the following elements:

1. Source of water intake (well or well).
2. A pumping station to which a pipe is laid underground from a water source.

   The pipeline must have a non-return valve that prevents the water from returning back.

3. A hydraulic accumulator or container into which water will be pumped.
4. There must be a tee on the outlet pipe from the accumulator, provided with a shut-off valve.

   Here the pipeline branches and one pipe supplies water for household needs, water is taken from another pipe for technical needs (watering the garden, washing the car, etc.).

5. The pipeline for household needs must be connected to the purification and water treatment system. Water from a well or well needs to be cleaned of harmful impurities that are contained in underground sources
6. After the water treatment system, a tee is installed, which sends part of the water to the cold water supply system, and the other part to the hot water system
7. A pipe with cold water is connected to a collector designed for cold water.

   Shut-off valves are installed on each line, which is intended for a specific consumer.

8. The pipeline for hot water is connected to the water heater.
9. After the water heater, the pipe is connected to a collector, from which the pipes diverge throughout the house.

The plumbing may have other elements, but the general scheme, as well as the connection sequence, do not change.

Plumbing scheme in the country

Pumping station: installation, functions and constituent elements

A private house is connected to the water supply using a pumping station, which pumps water into the system from a source (well, well).

The pumping station should be placed in the house, basement or in any heated utility room to prevent it from freezing and to be able to use the water supply in winter.

The pumping station will provide uninterrupted water supply for a family of several people.

The cost of the pumping station today is about three hundred US dollars. And in order to fully equip the water supply system in a private house, taking into account the cost of both the pumping station and other necessary equipment, including treatment facilities, you will have to spend 500-800 dollars.

Pumping station

The pumping station requires an electrical connection to operate.

Manufacturers attach diagrams to pumping stations that show how to organize a water supply system from start to finish in a private house.

For example, if water is taken from a nearby well, then the outlet pipe must be laid below the freezing level of the soil.

The pipe entrance to the well should be securely fixed with silicone and covered with bituminous mastic. It is better to install the pumping station itself in the basement or on the basement floor, since its operation is accompanied by noise.

In cheap pumping stations, the noise level is higher. When buying this device, you should pay attention to its technical characteristics and buy units with a low noise level only.

A pipe is laid to the pumping station from the water source, which ends with a brass fitting with an adapter for a diameter of 32 mm.

A tee equipped with a drain cock is connected to the fitting to turn off the water supply in case of repair.

Then a non-return valve is connected, which prevents the water from returning back. To turn the pipe (if necessary) towards the station, a 90 ° angle is used.

Pumping station device

After that, all elements are connected using the “American” connection in the following sequence:

• A ball valve is connected to turn on or off the water supply.
• A mesh filter is installed for coarse cleaning.
• The finished pumping station must have a damping tank or a hydraulic accumulator and a pressure switch.

  If you immerse the pump in a water intake (well, well), and all the other equipment is placed in the house, then the pressure switch must be connected on top of the pipe, and a hydraulic accumulator or damper tank must be installed below.

• The function of the sensor is to protect the pump from "dry running".
• The fine filter is connected to the remaining connection.
• Next, a fitting is installed with a transition to a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm.

Before starting further work, you need to check the operation of the pump.

Why do we need a hydraulic accumulator and water treatment devices

The hydraulic accumulator is a sealed tank with two sections.

One section is for water, and the other is for pressurized air. This unit provides a stable pressure in the water supply system and can, when necessary, turn the pump on or off.

Let's consider such an example. If the accumulator is filled with water, then the pressure in the water supply is 3 bar. When water flows, the pressure in the accumulator drops, then the relay trips and the pump turns on.

The unit is filled with water again and the pressure is again 3 bar.

(The volume of the tank can be selected from 25L to 500L, depending on the needs of consumers.)

But it is not necessary to install a hydraulic accumulator in the water supply system; a storage tank can be used for the same purposes. You need to install a storage tank on the top floor of the house or in the attic. Then the water creates pressure in the system with its weight when it enters the consumers.

Water treatment system

After the accumulator, water enters the water treatment system, where it goes through several stages of purification and is freed from various harmful impurities.

Filtering devices, water treatment units and other devices should be located at a distance of one meter from the accumulator.

The water obtained from the source must be checked in the laboratory, where they will determine the presence of soluble salts and various impurities in it.

Depending on the results obtained, you can choose filter systems and water treatment devices, iron removers, etc.

The cleaning system is of great importance when organizing water supply in a private house.

Since the water that is pumped out of the well or from the well does not meet sanitary requirements. It may contain impurities that exclude the use of such water not only for drinking, but even for washing or washing hands.

The purification system qualitatively purifies the water and at the same time retains in it all the microelements useful for the human body.

How collectors and boilers are installed

After the filtration system, the water is divided into two streams in the system.

One pipe leads to a collector with cold water, and the other one transports water to the water heater.

The collector distributes water to all consumers in the house.

In front of the collector and on each pipe that exits the collector and transports water to the consumer, stop valves and a drain valve are required.

The pipe that supplies water to the water heater must be provided with a safety valve, and there must also be an expansion tank and a ball drain valve under the boiler.

A ball valve is also installed at the outlet of the water heater. The pipe that takes water out of the water heater is connected to the collector, where it is distributed throughout the house. In principle, this is where the installation of the plumbing ends. But we still need to highlight the issue of choosing a material for plumbing in a private house and piping inside the house.

The choice of pipes for plumbing

If you do not have experience in installing a water supply system, but want to make a water supply system with your own hands, then you should choose pipes for your system that will not only have high performance, but will also be easy to install.

Since you are not professional plumbers, it is better to choose a pipeline material that you can work with without sophisticated equipment and without professional skills.

For some time, metal-plastic pipes were very popular. They were used almost everywhere for plumbing in a private house, as they have a number of positive properties.

1. They don't rust.
2. Deposits do not accumulate on the inner surface.
3. Long service life (35 years)
4. Not afraid of exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

But along with undeniable advantages, metal-plastic pipes also have significant disadvantages.

1. High cost of additional elements (fittings)
2. Afraid of freezing water and deformed at temperatures above 95 degrees.
3. Unreliable connections, when pressure changes, the rubber sealing rings on the fittings can let water through.
4. Do not bend pipes with fittings.

Now more reliable material for pipelines is polypropylene.

Plumbing made of polypropylene is cheaper than a metal-plastic pipeline.

Polypropylene pipes have a longer service life (up to 50 years in a cold water system and 25 years in hot water systems), they are not susceptible to oxidation, they are easy to install, their connections are strong and reliable, which allows for hidden pipe routing.

When choosing PP pipes for hot water supply, it is better to give preference to reinforced products that can withstand high temperatures well.

Polypropylene pipes can be reinforced with aluminum, fiberglass or other material.

How to choose the right pipe diameter for domestic plumbing

For plumbing, it is very important to choose the correct pipe diameter.

If you buy pipes with a very small diameter, this will lead to turbulence in the flow, that is, the water in the system will move with noise and leave lime deposits on the inner walls. The speed of water advancement should be no more than two meters per second, taking this into account, it is necessary to select the diameter of the pipes.

The diameter of the pipes depends on the length of the water pipe:

• For a pipeline with a length of 10 to 30 m, pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are required, and less than 10 m - with a diameter of 20 mm.
• For a long pipeline over 30 m long, it is better to take pipes with a diameter of 32 mm.

In order for the water supply system to work effectively in a private house, it is necessary to choose the right diameter of the collector pipe, since it must provide several consumers with water at the same time.

To do this, let's do some simple calculations.

One tap passes 5-6 liters of water per minute. Given this, you need to calculate the number of consumers in the house that can be turned on at the same time.

• A 25 mm (1 inch) pipe can pass through itself 30 liters of water per minute;
• pipe 32 mm (1.25 inches) - 50 liters;
• pipe 38 mm (1.5 inches) - 75 liters.

If several people live in the house, they can simultaneously use the bathroom, toilet, sink in the kitchen.

It is necessary to summarize the water consumption of these devices, and then we can easily determine the diameter of the collector pipe. To do this, we calculate the amount of water that is consumed at all points of water intake, and reduce it by 25%. So we will find the approximate water flow, and based on the obtained value, we determine what diameter of the collector pipe we need.

Connection of polypropylene pipes by welding

Consider how polypropylene pipes are interconnected.

Piping in the bathroom. Ways of laying communications and types of components used

Take for cold water pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. For a hot water system, we will use reinforced pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm.

The technology of welding PP pipes is not a complicated process.

But here, most importantly, you need to know the basic rules and be extremely careful. For work, we need special scissors for cutting PP pipes and a welding machine.

All our further actions should take place in the following sequence:

1. Armed with scissors for cutting pipes, we cut the PP pipes into segments of the size we need.

   The blade of the scissors should be held strictly perpendicular.

2. We mark the welding depth on the segments with a pipe marker, in order to determine this value, it is necessary to insert the pipe into the fitting, but not until it stops (there should be a distance to the protrusion of about 1 - 2 mm)
3. The welding site must be cleaned of dirt and dust with wet alcohol wipes.
4. We select the nozzles of the desired size and install them on the welding machine.
5. We turn on the welding machine, setting the welding temperature to 260 ° C.

   The readiness of the tool for work can be determined by the indicator. When the welding heats up, the lights go out.

6. The elements of the pipeline that we will connect are pushed onto the nozzles to the drawn mark.

   The main thing at the same time is not to turn the pipes and not to make twisting movements.

7. As soon as the pipes and fittings are installed on the nozzles, we count 7 seconds and remove. For this step, you will need an assistant to hold the welding machine.
8. We connect the elements of the pipeline to each other without making rotational movements, and hold for a few seconds.

As a result, you should get an even and strictly perpendicular connection.

If the result of your work is unsatisfactory, you will have to cut off the section with the connection and repeat everything from the very beginning.

Plumbing in a private house

When the pipes are connected, you can start laying the pipeline inside the house. It is better to start work, starting from water consumers. We connect the pipe with the consumer device with an adapter with a threaded connection. A ball valve must be installed between the hose and the adapter, with which, if necessary, you can shut off the water.

After that, we lay the pipe towards the collector.

In this case, several rules must be observed:

• It is advisable not to run pipes through walls and other building structures. If there are no other options, then when laying the pipeline, you need to make a special glass in the wall through which the pipe will pass to another room. This is necessary so that the building structure does not create an additional load on the pipe.
• To facilitate repairs, it is better to place pipes from the wall at a distance of 25 mm
• When installing drain taps in the water supply system, make a slight slope of the pipeline towards the tap.
• When the pipe bypasses the outer corner, it must be placed at a distance of 15 mm, and when bypassing the inner corner, the pipeline must be placed at a distance of 30 mm.
• The pipe is attached to the walls with special clips.

  It is necessary to fix the pipeline in corner joints, and on straight sections, the clips must be placed at a distance of 1.5 m.

• When installing a polypropylene pipeline in corner joints, polypropylene fittings with the same or transitional diameters are used.
• It must be remembered that the fewer corners and turns we make in the pipeline, the less pressure we lose.

When the pipes are connected to the collector, valves are installed.

in order to disconnect the consumer from the water supply if necessary or for the purpose of repair.

Rotted old plumbing in the apartment. Perspiration on the pipes, fistula after fistula; turn off the water, and then turn it on again - rust is gushing from the taps. And it is planned to repair the kitchen with a bathroom, and the old pipes are not something to touch or breathe - it's scary to look at them. We need to change, but the work is expensive. Is it possible to replace the apartment plumbing with your own hands? Yes, you can, and without any permits-designs. It will only be necessary to agree with the DEZ locksmith to shut off the water supply to the risers for a maximum of an hour; most likely, it will be possible to manage in 10 minutes. Or warn the neighbors, if not harmful, and block / re-apply yourself.

Replacement procedure

The replacement of the water supply is carried out in a certain sequence. Work "by eye" and "on the go" in non-professional performance often ends in a leak. The work plan is something like this:

1. Choice of material for new pipes.
2. Choice of hot and cold water distribution scheme.
3. Development of a water supply scheme for an apartment.
4. Calculation of the diameter of pipes according to the selected material and scheme.
5. Preparation of the mounting tool.
6. Purchase of materials.
7. Assembly of selection and accounting units, their installation on risers and registration.
8. Dismantling of old pipes and plumbing fixtures.
9. Connection of HMS and aquastop, if provided.
10. Connecting a flask filter (with HMS is required).
11. Installation of hot and cold water pipes.
12. Installation and connection of plumbing, old or new.
13. Test water supply; elimination of identified defects.
14. Installation and connection of the boiler.

HMS, flask filter and aquastop

HMS, or hydromagnetic system, has long been used in industry to prepare water for filtration. In everyday life, this device, without going into details, converts impurities in water into a fine suspension, which then settles in the filter in the form of sludge and is periodically removed. HMS is absolutely harmless, does not require power supply and maintenance during operation, but it necessarily requires the installation of a water meter in an antimagnetic design (these are more expensive) and, after the water flow, a combined flask filter.

The flask filter consists of three sections connected in series: the first one collects sludge, the second one removes chlorine, and the third one is used for fine purification of water and its softening. The latter (no one has been drinking tap water for a long time) is especially important for the washing machine boiler.

HMS with flasks cost a lot, but they protect well not only equipment, but also health. Complain or not, be indignant - do not be indignant, and drinking water is firmly held in the ten most scarce resources in the world, and there are no global programs that can bring its quality to the level of at least the middle of the last century, and are not foreseen. In general, the salvation of drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves.

Aquastop is also a useful device, it also does not require power supply and maintenance, but its function is different. With a sharp increase in current (breakthrough) of water, the aquastop is triggered and its valve cuts off the entire apartment from the riser. Aquastops come in different systems, including electrodynamic ones, so an anti-magnetic counter is also needed when installing an aquastop.

Pipe selection

A new plumbing in an apartment begins with the choice of pipes. Steel in everyday life has become obsolete, and you have to choose from metal-plastic, plastic and brazed copper. This stage of work is perhaps the most responsible - incorrect choice will nullify all the efforts, expenses and troubles.

Copper

One can say about copper water pipes right away: their propagandists do not know what they are talking about. Or they know, but they don’t set themselves. Firstly, copper oxide forms on copper in contact with water - the same verdigris that Tom Sawyer talked about to Huckleberry Finn. Yes, a person needs copper, but in negligible amounts in the form of a microelement, and not as part of a strong poison. As a counterargument, they say that copper forms a protective film with chlorine from water. Absurd for anyone who remembers at least school chemistry.

Secondly, the composition of the solder for copper includes tin. White tin, a soft metal, over time turns into its other, as chemists say, allotropic modification - gray tin, a crumbly powder. That is, by installing copper pipes (very expensive), we thereby 100% guarantee leakage. And the payment for the work of a company specializing in copper pipes, since it is impossible to solder them correctly on your own.

metal-plastic

Metal-plastic pipes are quite expensive, but they can be connected by hand without experience. Metal-plastic plumbing is assembled on special threaded assemblies with gaskets or under crimping - fittings. In addition, metal-plastic pipes can be smoothly bent. Hydrodynamic resistance and pressure loss in metal-plastic are very small.

To insert a pipe into a fitting, you need a pipe cutter, press tongs and a set of reamers (reamers) for the diameter of the pipes. With their help, work goes effortlessly, and with improvised means - a full guarantee of leakage. In addition, the life of gaskets in fittings is limited, and over time, the joint begins to drip. Therefore, bricking metal-plastic into walls is unacceptable, and it is strongly recommended not to hide it in strobes.

It is recommended to conduct water supply with metal-plastic in separate open areas, where the minimum resistance to water flow and the possibility of a simple and quick bulkhead of the joint are important: when connecting a boiler, washing machine, sink, etc. Adapters from metal-plastic to other types of pipes are always on sale.

Plastic

Plastic apartment plumbing has now become the standard, but plastics are different. To make the right choice, you need to know their properties and features.

Polybutylene (PB)

Flexible plastic with good thermal conductivity for plastic. Holds temperatures up to 90 degrees. A properly soldered joint is absolutely reliable. Pretty expensive. Used for underfloor heating.

Polyethylene (PE)

Cheap, but for hot water, polyethylene reinforced pipes are needed; ordinary polyethylene does not hold 60 degrees. It is impossible to bend and glue, the soldered joint reliably holds a pressure of no more than 3.5 atm, and the water pressure in the city water supply can be up to 6 atm (0.6 Mbar) for cold water and 4.5 atm for hot water, so that there is a possibility of a sudden breakthrough. Hydraulic resistance, however, is the smallest of all.

It seems that polyethylene pipes are bad for everyone, but they have an advantage that can be worth all their shortcomings: they are not afraid of freezing. The ice cork bursts them, and when it melts, they shrink again, and do not burst, even if you crack. Therefore, the installation of a polyethylene water supply system is strongly recommended in unheated, seasonal and underground premises. There is no alternative to polyethylene. But with a constantly filled system, an aquastop is needed.

PVC (PVC)

The properties of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are well known: chemically resistant, inexpensive, heat resistant up to 80 degrees, easy to glue, but not very strong and afraid of ultraviolet radiation. Joints, both soldered and glued, come out more brittle than solid material, so the danger of a breakthrough remains and an aquastop is needed. Replacing individual sections of glued PVC, of ​​course, is more difficult than for collapsible metal-plastic, but easier than for soldered joints: heating the joint with a household hair dryer, the joint can be separated, and then glued again. In general, the option is budgetary or for a novice master with a length of the main branch from the riser to the farthest draw point of no more than 10 m and with no more than 7 sampling points.

Propylene (PP)

Laying an apartment water supply with polyisopropylene pipes (propylene) is now generally accepted. The material is not very expensive, durable, resistant, soldered joints retain all the qualities of the base, heat resistance - up to 130 degrees, properly soldered holds up to 12 atm. The hydraulic resistance is higher than that of PVC, but anyway, the accumulation of plaque in the lumen is minimal, and with HMS it is excluded. There are only two disadvantages when doing it yourself:

• It does not stick, and soldering requires special equipment and strict adherence to technology.
• It has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion. Immured in a wall or hidden in a strobe, it can bend and break the tile, therefore, when laying each pipe, you need to put on a stocking made of merylon or synthetic winterizer, which increases the cost of work.

However, the propylene pipeline is by far the only one that can be done once and for all and forgotten. Therefore, we will dwell on the soldering of propylene separately, especially since the soldering of other plastics differs only in a lower temperature (110-130 degrees for polyethylene and about 150 for PVC).

Propylene soldering

Soldering propylene with a handicraft “iron” soldering iron end-to-end (see the figure on the right) is unacceptable:

1. Pollution accumulates on the “sausage” inside, and the pipeline assembled in this way is more prone to clogging than steel.
2. The pressure of the water, bursting the pipes, tends to break the joint. At 16 degrees in the pipe and 20-25 outside, after about three months the fatigue threshold of the material is surpassed, and the joint flows.

The assembly of the propylene pipeline is carried out on fittings for soldering - straight (for connecting pipe sections), angular, tees, crosses. The pipe heated to softening is inserted into the holder of the also heated fitting, and the joint freezes. In this case, water pressure, on the contrary, presses the pipe against the casing from the inside, providing strength, and only sealing remains for the fused zone. The rather high rigidity of propylene does not allow the clip covering the pipe to expand elastically. It is this design of the connection, combined with the properties of the material, that makes the propylene pipeline suitable for immuring into walls for decades.

Note: a more or less decent soldering iron for propylene costs at least 2000 rubles. and is still unsuitable for something, but does not wear out from work. Therefore, you do not need to buy it, it is better to rent it.

• For hidden wiring in a typical apartment in strobes or monolithic - definitely propylene.
• For branches of great length with a large number of points of water intake - open metal-plastic or in channels with removable covers.
• For country houses, seasonal rental housing, country houses with remote outbuildings, greenhouses, etc. - polyethylene.
• For budget repairs or in areas with a shortage of water, low pressure in the water supply, with poor quality water - PVC.

Wiring diagram

Collectors-combs

There are two schemes for drawing water in the premises: serial and parallel. With a serial scheme, the points of analysis are connected to a common pipe through tees. This scheme is the most economical, but with a long wiring length, a large number of parsing points and / or with low water pressure, it is not suitable, as it greatly reduces pressure.

In this case, the water intake is done in parallel from the “comb” collector, see fig. A comb is an assembly of bypass valves, from each of which there is a solid branch to its point of analysis. The valves regulate the pressure separately by points. The branches to the points are made of metal-plastic or polyethylene: in this case, their low hydraulic resistance plays a role, and when laid in a single piece, they are quite reliable.

Development of a water intake scheme

The water supply scheme in the apartment is needed primarily for oneself, so as not to get confused, not to miscalculate, and then to know exactly where everything is - no special permission is required for this work. But when registering the meter, the water utility inspector may ask you to look at the diagram, so you need to draw it correctly.

A complete scheme according to all the rules is a serious job for a knowledgeable specialist; for example - in the large figure, the water supply scheme of a private house with a summer kitchen, which is necessary for the project to be approved. But to replace the pipes in the apartment, you don’t need to bother like that, it’s enough that the diagram clearly shows and understands:

1. Hot and cold water pipes, their type and lumen diameter.
2. Metering devices.
3. Emergency valves and drains.
4. Stop valve.
5. Points of analysis with indication of consumers.
6. Backup branches and devices.
7. Direction of water flow.

To make all this clear not only to yourself, or to yourself a year later, certain rules must be observed when drawing. Let's look at examples, see fig. On the left - more or less okay, but with comments, on the right - wrong:

• The scheme on the right is made in isometry - for beauty, or what? The intersections of the pipes confuse her, and she does not give an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe real location of the analysis points: the washing machine with the boiler comes out under the floor.
• There are also too many current arrows where it is already clear where it flows, which also confuses the circuit.
• In the same place, shut-off valves with metering devices are depicted indistinctly and not according to the rules.
• In the same place - the type and diameter of the pipes are not indicated.
• In the same place - who, where and when saw that water was supplied to the boiler from above, and the toilet was flushed through the ebb?
• But in the diagram on the left, it’s not even clear to a specialist that the boiler (6) is a backup. The remark will be: “Where is the check valve for hot? Without it, when the supply is stopped, the boiler will drive its own into the hot riser if the valve (10) is not closed. But this is already in essence and with full understanding.

Correct simplified plumbing scheme in the apartment

An example is arbitrarily, not according to the rules for designing design documentation, but completely understandable and without frills, the completed water intake scheme is shown in the following figure. This is also an example of a parallel drawdown; where the combs, of course.

Pipe calculation

Before finally choosing pipes, you need to calculate at least approximately their diameter. This is not necessary for "smartness" - the narrower the pipe, the cheaper it is, on the one hand. On the other hand, a too small diameter pipe for a water supply will cause turbulence in the flow in it. At the same time, the throughput of the pipe drops sharply, and at normal pressure at the inlet from the tap it will barely ooze.

The exact calculation of the pipeline is a matter of highly qualified specialists, but for a city apartment, in order to flow normally, you can figure it out yourself. The initial data is:

1. The minimum allowable pressure is 0.3 at.
2. Pressure loss per 1 m of a 16 mm propylene pipe - 0.05 at.
3. The average pressure loss for apartment wiring per unit of fittings and fittings is 0.15 at.
4. Pressure loss in the selection and accounting unit - 0.25 at.
5. With normal values ​​​​of pressure at the inlet to the riser of 1.5-4.5 atm, periodic turbulence is inevitable in a 12 mm pipe, and is not observed in 16 mm pipes.
6. The headroom for the farthest point is at least two times.

It remains to find out the pressure (pressure) at the inlet, and you can determine whether, with the serial wiring of such a running pipe, there will be enough pressure for the farthest faucet or you will have to take it wider and more expensive. The pressure at the bottom of the riser can be obtained from the pressure gauge in the basement or from the building operator; then subtract 0.6 atm per floor. You can also estimate for neighbors based on the same 0.6 at / floor: if, say, three floors up from the taps, it still flows, then we have a good 2 at. But in high-rise buildings, such a trick does not work: in order not to overly increase the cost of apartment wiring, they make separate risers for the lower and upper, and even for the lower, middle and upper floors.

Calculation example: the second floor of a nine-story building; the residents of the upper floors do not complain about the water. We have at least 4 at pressure. 11 units of fittings (5 tees, 6 elbows, 1 valve) give 1.65 atm losses. The length of the pipe from the riser to the far wall of the kitchen is 6.5 m, which is another 0.325 atm of loss. In total, with the selection and accounting unit, we have 0.325 + 1.65 + 0.25 = 2.225 atm of losses. Too much, you need to check the pressure with a pressure gauge and, most likely, take the main pipe 20-25 mm, or get divorced in parallel from the comb, otherwise you can stay “dry” in the dry summer.

Note: from this it is clear how important it is to straighten the pipes and how undesirable they are to lengthen and clutter up with fittings.

The dependence of losses in pipes and fittings is non-linear: they depend on the flow velocity, which, in turn, depends on the cross section of the pipe lumen. A slight increase in the diameter of the pipe drastically reduces losses, so the usual 20 mm pipe wiring for apartments with taps to 16 mm points works well in most cases. In difficult cases, an accurate calculation can be made according to SNiP, internal water supply and sewerage of buildings. There are all the necessary formulas and nomograms; the calculation can be done by a person with an engineering education of any profile.

You just need to keep in mind that on this account there are already three SNiPs with the same index: 2.04.01-85, 2.04.01-85 (2000) and 2.04.01-85 * “(Domestic water supply and drainage systems in buildings) ". Correct - SNiP last.

Tools, materials, dismantling of the old

Special tools for assembling apartment pipelines are described above in the course of the presentation. For the purchase of materials, of course, you will need to calculate the footage, nomenclature and quantity in place. Dismantling of old pipes is done in the usual way. It is better to do it after installing and registering the water meter, so as not to turn off the water to the floors for a long time.

We will give only one piece of advice: do not take valves with a lever. It is made of silumin or plastic and tends to break off at the most inopportune moment, just when you need to urgently close it. Take ball valves with a butterfly handle. Round corrugated handles also do not break, but wet or sweaty hands slide on them.

Accounting and control

The selection and accounting unit consists of a shut-off valve, a coarse filter, a water meter and a check valve. Assembled as shown in the picture. Each of the devices indicates the direction of the water flow for it, it must be observed during assembly.

The assembly is assembled with waterproofing of the connections with the FUM tape and is also connected to the riser, having previously blocked the water; Remember to close the shut-off valve before supplying water. This is the only operation, and a short-term one, requiring turning off the water supply to neighbors in the riser.

Separate meter units are needed for cold and hot water. It is highly desirable that the counters and valve handles be highlighted in color. The meter readings should be clearly readable without any additional operations (hatch removal, etc.), so it is often necessary to pre-assemble a part of an integral pipeline, sometimes of a rather bizarre configuration, to connect metering devices to the riser. In addition to pipes and a soldering iron, for this you will need transitional couplings from plastic to metal MPV - a threaded inner coupling. Plastic is connected to metering units using MRN - external threaded couplings.

The meters are sold sealed, but this does not mean that you can immediately call the water utility and pay for water at the expense. The factory seal is for this (the Russian land is rich in craftsmen) so that no one gets into the meter and twists or files anything there. The factory seal must be protected; without it, the meter is considered unusable, as well as without a certificate for it.

When installing water meters, you need to declare to the water utility and call its inspector. You can use water before he arrives, the inspector does not need zero readings, he will write down the initial ones, seal the meter and filter drain with his seal. Payment for water consumption will go after registration of metering devices.

HMS, aquastop, filter

Although the design of the HMS is non-separable and does not allow stealing water with its help, and this device cannot be sealed, connecting the HMS to the meter is unacceptable: the meter impeller can become clogged with sludge. HMS with a flask filter is connected after metering devices; filter - immediately after HMS. An aquastop can be connected immediately after the filter, but if it is electrodynamic, the magnetic field of the HMS can cause its false operation, but it makes no sense to attribute the aquastop far from the riser: it does not react to a breakthrough before it.

Video: an overview of the layout options for plumbing elements

Pipeline installation

So, now we do the plumbing. The assembly of pipes has already been described, but the installation of the entire system also has non-construction features, such as the arrangement of channels in the screed. The latter should pass no further than 150 mm from the wall and no closer than 200 mm to the furniture. Plumbing fixtures, of course, are removed before starting pipe laying.

First of all, you need to install arcs - plastic strips with MRV squares for mixers. They are attached to the main wall with self-tapping screws in dowels. When attaching, you need to take into account the thickness of the finish: plaster and tile or other decorative coating.

Without a lot of building experience, it is very difficult to achieve the location of the outlet nozzles flush with the wall. It is better to make them PROPERTIES above the finished wall half the width of the side of the decorative mixer caps in advance: if the caps are unregulated, they can be easily adjusted on an emery wheel or manually on an emery bar.

The next moment is the assembly of pipeline sections. The most convenient way is to assemble it on the table and put it entirely in strobes. But then the question arises: how to run pipes through walls? There are no problems with metal-plastic, it is all on detachable fittings, and for brazed pipes, two methods can be offered:

• With the help of MPH / MRV adapters and metal-plastic inserts. In an apartment, this is quite reliable, and in the corners above the strobes, you can make removable hatches for revision and repair of threaded connections.
• Install pipelines locally. This requires a compact soldering iron. This one is more expensive, and you need to work in cotton gloves so as not to accidentally burn yourself.

Plumbing in an apartment, along with electrical wiring and gas communications, is one of the most important elements for ensuring a comfortable stay for residents. Therefore, if it becomes necessary to replace old pipes or install new ones, this task should be taken seriously.

Water distribution, although not an easy task, is quite feasible if you have certain knowledge and skills. If the work is done by hand, you will need to find answers to many questions and make the right decisions on the organization of the water supply. This article will discuss the main methods of wiring, the choice of materials for pipes, and also give instructions for installing the pipeline.

Choosing a water distribution method

When creating a wiring, there is an alternative: install a hidden pipeline or lay communications in an open way. For small rooms, the issue can be considered critical, since the location of pipes on top of the walls will lead to a reduction in usable area in the room. As a result, due to lack of space, furniture or household appliances may not fit.

If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room allows, you can choose any wiring method. However, it is important to take into account a number of technical nuances. For example, it is impossible to lay any butt joints of pipelines into the walls: compression fittings, threaded couplings, nipples, American women - all such elements must be on the surface, they must have free access in case of repair work. It is allowed to lay copper, polypropylene and metal-plastic pipes with press-type connections in the walls.

Hidden installation of water supply with copper pipes

Advantages of hidden wiring:

1. A more aesthetic appearance of the room, not overloaded with the type of communications.
2. Pipes do not interfere with the arrangement of furniture and household appliances.
3. In the event of a fire, hidden plumbing is likely to remain.

Disadvantages of concealed wiring:

1. The choice of materials for concealed installation is limited, since any collapsible elements are not suitable for this purpose.
2. The preparatory stage is laborious, since it is not easy to ditch the walls - it requires a lot of effort and time.
3. Installation work is also difficult, since pipes must be laid exactly in the strobe, and if this fails, the strobe must be expanded.
4. To carry out pipes, it will be necessary to remove facing materials and plaster.
5. It is often possible to detect a leak in a hidden wiring only after the water has entered the neighboring apartment.
6. It will not be possible to carry out preventive inspections of hidden communications.
7. There is a risk of accidental damage to the pipeline when carrying out any work on the wall surface (for example, when drilling holes).

Advantages open way installations compared to closed:

1. Installation of any type of pipes is possible, without any restrictions.
2. The installation process is less time consuming, as there is no need for chasing.
3. Installation of a water supply system is not so complicated, since there is no binding to the strobes.
4. Removing pipes is also much easier than with a walled system.
5. Control over the state of the pipeline is possible at any time.
6. Leaks immediately make themselves felt in puddles on the floor.
7. The system can be improved and supplemented with new elements.

Disadvantages of open wiring:

• not very attractive appearance of open pipes (although there is an option with camouflage boxes that can be adapted to the design of the room);
• reduction of usable area;
• fire hazard .

Water distribution scheme

Proper wiring design is the most important issue in arranging a water supply system. For example, we can cite a situation where, due to an incorrect scheme, during a shower, too hot water suddenly starts to flow due to the fact that someone turned on the water in the kitchen or flushed the tank in the toilet. To avoid such troubles, you need to choose the right wiring diagram and the diameters of the water supply elements.

Two main wiring schemes are used. There is also a combined scheme, where a combination of two possible options is used.

Serial scheme for connecting water supply units

A serial scheme (another name is “tee”) consists in connecting all points of consumption in series. In the described case, one pipe departs from the main water supply immediately to all consumers. A tee is installed next to each consumption point, from which a local pipe is diverted. Disadvantage of the system: if several consumers use the system at the same time, the pressure in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe last tee will be the lowest.

The collector circuit is based on a different principle: the pipe is connected to the main and sent to the collector, from which separate branches of the water supply diverge to consumers (i.e. one to the water heater, another to the boiler, etc.). At the same time, there are ball valves in front of the collector inlet and at the outlets. Thus, it becomes possible to carry out repair work on each pipe separately, while the system as a whole will retain its functionality. In addition, the pressure in such a system is approximately the same in all its parts.

Scheme of plumbing in the bathroom of the apartment

The collector scheme also has disadvantages. Such a system is more material-intensive - you will need more components, including pipes, taps, fittings, and more space for its placement. Naturally, such wiring will cost more than serial wiring.

Below is a diagram of the installation of filters to ensure proper water quality for different points of consumption.

The choice of the plumbing scheme is also influenced by the wiring diagram in the building as a whole. For example, if the main line enters the bathroom, and the return line enters the kitchen, it is recommended to make serial connections in the kitchen, but in the bathroom you can make the wiring at your discretion.

The scheme of water purification in the apartment

Pipe selection

For plumbing, the following pipe options can be used:

Do-it-yourself wiring organization

We draw up a water distribution scheme

First of all, we stop the choice on a specific type of wiring (open, hidden). Then we draw a diagram, where we indicate all the details of the wiring:

• room size;
• installation locations and dimensions of appliances, as well as plumbing fixtures;
• pipe diameter;
• node sizes;
• indicate all fittings, as well as their variety, size, installation location;
• places of bends and turns of the water supply, etc.

Advice! Before proceeding with the installation work, it is recommended to show the diagram to specialists.

Choosing the Right Materials

The cost of the work will be affected by the selected materials, the type of wiring (open, hidden), its scheme (tee, collector). The best option polypropylene and metal-plastic water pipes are considered. Systems made of copper and polypropylene pipes are expensive, but they are characterized by maximum quality.

It is recommended to start dismantling the old system only after purchasing everything you need. If the plans include not only replacing the water pipes in the apartment, but also the supply line, you will need to turn off the water supply in the riser. To solve this problem, you need to contact the appropriate operating organization.

Metal-plastic plumbing

As an example, we will analyze the process of installing a pipeline made of metal-plastic. The installation of metal-plastic pipes is carried out in one of two ways: press fittings (open or concealed laying) or compression fittings (only for open laying).

Instructions for the correct installation of pipes with compression fittings:

• remove the chamfer from the pipe with a calibrator;
• put a nut on the pipe;
• install the ring
• we put a fitting;
• crimp the fitting with open-end wrenches.

Note! Connections should be tightened at least once a year.

Installation instructions for pipes with press fittings:

• cut the pipe to the desired size;
• do the calibration;
• connect the pipe to the fitting;
• we do the pressing.

Note! The pipe must be level, at least 5-7 centimeters in front of the fitting.

After installing the water supply, you need to check it for leaks with a special device under high pressure. Only after making sure that the connections are reliable, it is possible to commission the system.