Where to install the thermostat. Thermoregulators for heating radiators. Types of controls

Installing a thermostat on the radiator allows you to control the flow of coolant into the heating device. Thus, comfortable temperature conditions for residents, as well as protection from emergencies when it is necessary to disconnect pipe sections from the heating system.

Selection of shut-off and control valves

For the functions described above, one of the three types of control valves is used:

cone valve;
ball valve;
automatic regulator.

Ball valves do not handle adjustment well temperature regime, as they work in two positions: open or blocked. If you install the faucet in an intermediate position, its tightness will be lost, since the coolant will destroy the ball element.

cone valve is more effective way temperature control. It can be in the half-open position. At the same time, we must not forget about the need to return it to the starting position. This method of temperature control is inconvenient and labor-intensive.

The best option temperature control is the use of automatic thermostats mounted next to the batteries. Another name for these devices is thermostats.

The principle of operation of the regulator

The thermostat is a sealed chamber (the so-called bellows), which is filled with a working medium. When the temperature rises, the coolant expands and the bellows straightens. Then the shut-off valve blocks the flow of the coolant into the battery, thus reducing the temperature in the room. If the temperature drops, the opposite effect occurs: the thermal head shrinks, which opens the valve, as a result of which the flow of coolant into the battery increases.

Thermostat design

Temperature controllers can be designed to work in one-pipe or two-pipe systems.

Thermostat circuit

The thermostat includes a thermal head and a special valve. These mechanisms work without consuming energy and maintaining communication with each other.

The thermal head has a drive, a regulator and a liquid component, which can be changed to a gas or elastic one.

Thermostat design

Thermostat components:

thermal valve;
thermal element;
sensitive element;
spool valve;
connector;
transfer rod;
union nut;
compensatory mechanism;
retainer ring;
scale.

Advantages of thermostats

There are two types of thermostats on the market: liquid and gas. All of them must be certified. The average service life of such devices is approximately 20 years.

thoughtful design that fits well into any interior;
comfortable temperature control;
ease of installation;
the possibility of operation throughout the entire period of service without carrying out preventive maintenance and maintenance;
after installing the thermostat on the battery, there is no need to open the windows to lower the too high temperature in the room;
thermostats operate at a user-selected temperature - from 5 to 27 degrees;
devices allow you to evenly distribute the heat carrier throughout the heating system;
thermostats allow you to avoid excessive heating of the air if the room is heated by sunlight or electrical appliances;
thermostat allows you to save up to a quarter of fuel consumption;
installation of the device allows you to improve the microclimate in the house;
the use of thermostats is optimal in private homes, where they usually pay for themselves within one year.

Liquid or gas filled thermostats?

Gas-filled or liquid thermostats respond more actively to temperature fluctuations in the room. Liquid thermostats more accurately respond to changes in the internal pressure in the corrugated cylinder and more effectively direct it to the actuating part of the mechanism.

Liquid thermostat

The designs of thermostats filled with gas are characterized by a number of significant advantages:

Gas condensation takes place in the coldest section of the device, which is furthest from the valve body. As a result, the reaction occurs quickly, since the process does not depend on the water temperature.
This type of thermostat reacts quickly to the temperature dynamics in the building, which ensures efficient heat supply.

Location for thermostat installation

The functioning of the regulator is affected by the following circumstances:

the presence of direct sunlight;
air circulation in the room;
temperature conditions outside the building;
extraneous sources of cold or heat in the room.

In private buildings, thermostats are primarily installed on the upper floors, since the heated air goes to the top and the temperature difference between the upper and lower levels of the house varies greatly. Regulators must be placed horizontally on the pipes, near the point of entry into the heater.

In a private house, it is most rational to install low-capacity panel batteries and equip them with thermostats that quickly respond to manipulations with thermostatic valves. However, at the same time, radiators covered with curtains, decorative coatings or grilles, as well as other objects, should be avoided. Otherwise, the possibility of a correct assessment of the temperature regime in the room will be impaired. This recommendation can be circumvented by installing a remote sensor located at a distance of 2-7 meters from the valve, which will allow you to control the temperature near the location of the control device.

Panel radiator with thermostat

Note! IN apartment buildings installation of the thermostat should be started where temperature fluctuations are especially noticeable: kitchen, main room, rooms exposed to direct sunlight.

Installing a thermostat

Before installing the thermostat, turn off the supply riser. We drain the water from the heating system.

Installation work is carried out as follows:

cut off horizontal lines at a certain distance from the battery;
remove the cut pipe and faucet from the battery;
unfasten the shanks and nuts from the thermostat valve and stopcock;
wrap them in radiator caps;
we assemble the piping and put everything in the planned place;
we connect the piping with horizontal supply pipes that are connected to the riser.

If we are talking about a one-pipe system, when connecting a thermostat, you will need to replace the battery connection diagram. To do this, you need to install a jumper for docking the reverse and direct connections of the device. Such a jumper, called a bypass, makes it possible for the coolant to move if it is necessary to shut off the heating with a thermostat. To implement the circuit, you need to remove the device, not forgetting to close the valves.

You can control the flow of coolant into the battery in a two-pipe circuit if you use a radiator thermostat installed on the top supply.

Setting the thermostat

To set the temperature controller correctly, the temperature must be reduced to the minimum possible heat loss in the room. The thermometer should be located where the temperature will be constant. After that, we scroll the head of the thermal regulator to the left to the end, opening the valve, as a result of which maximum heat transfer is achieved. As soon as the temperature increases by 5-6 degrees, the valve is closed by turning the head in the opposite direction. After reaching the desired temperature level, we begin to carefully open the valve. The setting ends when the sound of water in the regulator is heard and the rapid heating of the valve is felt.

The installation of thermostats on heating radiators is best entrusted to professionals who will connect according to the manufacturer's instructions. Properly installed equipment will create an optimal temperature regime in the room and ensure the rational consumption of thermal energy, which will positively affect the financial expenses of the family.

klivent.biz

Choosing and installing a thermostat on a heating radiator: 4 basic rules

Greetings, comrades. Having considerable experience in this topic, I will tell you under what circumstances you need a thermostat and how to install it correctly. Well, at the same time I will explain which valves can be used to adjust the temperature of the heating radiator. Let's get started.

Installing a thermostat on a panel radiator will save on fuel.

Why is it needed

Temperature adjustment for water heating is carried out in the only way - by throttling the device's connections (that is, by artificially limiting their throughput).

The installation of temperature controllers is mandatory in two cases:

Saving. If part of the premises in a house or apartment is temporarily not used, then for reasons of economy, the temperature in them is reduced to the minimum values (16-18 degrees). To return a comfortable climate in the room, it is enough to open the valve on the supply to the battery;

A typical picture for a new building: one room is being renovated, the other is temporarily empty.

It is impossible to completely block the heating in unused rooms. In addition to the possibility of defrosting a stopped device, you will get moisture condensation on the coldest surfaces of a room left without heating - window slopes and outer walls. Very soon, after the dampness, her faithful companion, the fungus, will catch up.

It is worth leaving the room without heating - and the fungus on the walls will not be slow to appear.

Two-pipe dead-end heating system. From the point of view of the circulation of the coolant, it represents several parallel circuits of different lengths. Of course, water will circulate only through batteries closest to the boiler or elevator.

Two-pipe dead-end wiring. The batteries will be heated unevenly: those closest to the input will become hot, those far away will cool down.

When such a circuit is launched, its balancing is necessarily performed - throttling devices closest to the boiler or elevator assembly, which allows redirecting part of the water volume to distant batteries.

Most often, thermostats are used to adjust the temperature regime of individual rooms to the preferences of their inhabitants.

Rule 1: Only Use Valves Designed for Choking

Throttling valves for regulating the temperature of radiators.

Why is it impossible to use ordinary taps and valves to regulate the temperature of individual sections of the heating system?

To explain this, I need to show and tell you how the valves of the respective varieties work.

Screw valves

The principle of operation of the screw valve is simple and clear:

The stem is screwed in and unscrewed along the thread in the valve head;
A valve with a gasket, movably fixed on the stem, closes the seat, through the hole in which water or other coolant enters from below;
A stuffing box or O-ring seals the moving stem. In this case, the gland packing is pressed from below from the side of the body by a thread on the rod through a brass washer.

Opened valves. The valves are movably fixed on the stem.

The leakage of a valve with a worn gland can often be stopped by opening it all the way.

To limit the permeability of the eyeliner, you need to leave the screw valve half-closed. What will happen?

The gland packing will not be pressed from the side of the body and will leak at the slightest wear;
A valve movably mounted on the stem will hang out in a turbulent flow of water. Sooner or later, due to banal mechanical wear, it will come off the rod and cease to perform its functions. The valve will require repair, and the circuit will have to be reset to access the valve.

Ball Valves

Meet the ball valve, the fault-tolerant champion of all valves.

A ball valve consists of a spherical valve with a through slot, a body, a handle and a pair of Teflon or fluoroplastic rings - seats, which ensure the tightness of the valve to the body.

In the open position of the valve, the flow of the working medium moves through the hole in the gate. In closed saddles are in a static environment.

Closed valve: Seats sealing the valve are in contact with a stationary working medium.

But in the half-open state, two troubles await us:

The water flow passes between the hole in the gate and the seat. At the same time, abrasive particles contained in water (fine sand, rust, etc.) contribute to the erosion of the soft polymer material of the sealing ring;
Even worse, these particles collect in the gap between the bolt and the body. If enough debris has accumulated there, attempting to close the ball valve will damage the seat.

Rule 2: if the lines are throttled, there must be a bypass between them

First of all, this concerns the heating systems of apartment buildings. If there is no jumper between the connections to the radiator, installing a temperature controller on the battery will cause you to throttle the entire riser with it.

If the connections are opened by taps or chokes, there must be a bypass between them.

What is done by representatives of housing organizations in such cases?

The apartments are bypassed along the riser;
An act is drawn up on unauthorized changes in the configuration of public equipment (and the heating riser belongs to this category);
At the expense of the culprit, the neighbors are recalculated for heating for the entire time during which the air temperature in the apartments was below sanitary standards.

Throttling fittings on the supply line must be located relative to the jumper on the side of the radiator. When the throttle is closed, water will circulate through the bypass.

An exception to this rule is two-pipe systems in private houses and apartments with independent heating. In them, the throttling of one battery will not limit the circulation through the rest, but will increase the coolant flow through them.

In the photo - two-pipe heating wiring in my basement. Radiators can be connected to supply lines without bypasses.

special case

Often the jumper is supplied with a crane that completely blocks it. In the closed position, the valve allows you to slightly raise the air temperature in the room: the entire flow of water is directed to the radiator and heats up its distant sections more efficiently.

If the taps or throttles on the inlets are covered, the tap on the jumper must be fully open.

If the radiator inlet valves are fully or partially closed, the bypass valve must be fully open.

Rule 3: thermal heads are more convenient than chokes

The thermostat for the battery can be one of three varieties:

	Three-way plug valves were used during the installation of the Khrushchev heating system. They were placed on the connection of the jumper with one of the eyeliners. Depending on the position of the faucet handle, the water flow was directed to the radiator, jumper, or completely blocked.
	The needle throttle resembles a screw valve, but its valve is conical and is part of the stem.
	The thermal head regulates the permeability of the eyeliner due to the thermal expansion of a liquid or solid working fluid - a material with a high coefficient of thermal expansion. When heated, the bellows in the body of the thermal head lengthens and extends the stem that blocks the inlet. When cooled, the rod returns to its original position by a return spring

A three-way valve closed out of ignorance often causes accidents. That is why in the houses of a newer Soviet construction, the throttling fittings were completely removed from the apartments.

The position of a three-way valve with the handle removed can only be determined by heating the radiator, jumper and riser.

The first type of thermostat can not be considered as a competing solution: it has long since disappeared from the market and is found only in houses built before the mid-60s.

The throttle is regulated only in manual mode, while the change in temperature in the room occurs with a delay of 1-2 hours: first, the flow of water through the inlet stabilizes, then the temperature of the radiator slowly changes, and only then the air begins to heat up or cool down.

After changing the throttle position, the air temperature in the room stabilizes after 1-2 hours.

The thermal head after the basic adjustment (the target temperature set on it) maintains the climate in the room in a fully automatic mode. Timely adjustment not only maintains comfortable temperature but it also saves a lot of heat. Agree that in a private house with autonomous systems oh heating it will not be superfluous.

Automatic thermostat saves up to 40% of heat. Its cost will pay off during the first heating season since the installation.

The price of a set of a control valve and a thermostatic head varies from 1200 to 4000 rubles. Electronic devices gravitate to the upper limit of the range, maintaining the set temperature with high accuracy and allowing you to program temperature cycles (say, lower the temperature during your absence on weekdays).

Rule 4: the thermal head should not be heated by third-party heat sources

How to install a thermostat on a battery, ensuring its adequate operation?

In the case of a manual choke, the instruction is extremely simple: it breaks any of the eyeliners. The position of the throttle knob has no effect on its functionality.

Often, instead of a separate throttle and an American, a so-called corner radiator valve is used to connect the battery - a fitting that combines an American with a thermostat.

Angle valve for connecting a radiator: needle throttle and American in one body.

Do-it-yourself installation of a thermal head is a little more complicated. It must not be:

In an ascending stream of warm air from a battery or an eyeliner to it;
In the coverage area of other heating devices (oil radiators, convectors, IR emitters);
In a brightly lit place. Heating by sunlight can also affect the accuracy of the device.

The correct location of the thermal head: in the shade, not above the battery and out of the range of other heating devices.

Conclusion

As you can see, there are few rules for installing control valves for heating, they are all understandable and feasible. You can learn more about how to adjust the heat transfer of heating devices by watching the video in this article. I look forward to additions and comments to it. Good luck, comrades!

heating-gid.ru

Installing a thermostat on a battery

The presence of thermostats on the devices of the heating system is currently not a luxury, but a necessity. Three reasons suffice to support this:

The presence of thermostats allows you to constantly maintain a comfortable temperature in the room, and each room has its own;
The installation of these devices allows you to get significant savings on heating costs, especially when it comes to a private house with an autonomous heating system;
Installing a thermostat on a battery in an apartment located in an apartment building with a centralized heating system makes it possible to level out the significant temperature differences inherent in such systems.

Installation of thermostats on heating batteries begins with their selection and purchase.

thermostat for battery

When choosing them, it is necessary to remember that the following external factors influence the temperature change in the room: drafts, direct sunlight, changes in outdoor air temperature, the presence of additional sources in the house that emit / absorb heat (electric heaters, cold and hot water pipes, etc. .).

Any thermostat consists of a sensitive element (thermal sensor or bellows) and a valve that operate without the need to connect external power sources. A thermal sensor or a thermal head is structurally made of a regulator, an actuating element (liquid, gas or elastic) and a drive.

The decision on how to connect the thermostat to the radiator is made taking into account its design features.

Today, trade offers a very wide range of similar products, which are usually divided either by filler (liquid or gas-filled) or by the principle of operation (mechanical or electronic).

Installation of a thermostat of any type can be carried out on radiators in any heating systems. They are easily adapted to work with existing radiator thermostats in new homes.

The principle of operation of mechanical thermostats is as follows: the required temperature is manually set on it. Installed at the inlet to the radiator, such a thermostat is triggered when the temperature rises, partially blocking the diameter of the inlet pipe, and when it decreases, increasing the latter by opening to the maximum value.

Regulators with electrical control are divided, in turn, into:

Thermostats with built-in boiler heating control or circulation pump;
Controlling the control valve installed at the inlet to the radiator.

Electronic thermostats (ET) have a remote or built-in temperature control sensor in the room, and work on its signals. There are ET models with analog and digital control on the market. Moreover, the latter are increasingly crowding out the former.

Digital ET, in turn, are divided into those with open or closed logic. In the closed logic version, only certain parameters can be adjusted. Open logic allows you to freely program the thermostat according to any indicators. These regulators, despite their clear advantage, are used much less often, as they require a certain skill to operate them.

Schemes for installing a thermostat on heating appliances

The generalized scheme of operation given below gives an answer to the question: “How to install a thermostat on a battery?”. It looks like this:

Before starting work, the corresponding CO riser (heating system) is turned off;
The coolant descends from it;
The existing horizontal pipe connections to the radiator are cut off;
The cut off part of the pipeline and the valve, if one has been installed, are disconnected from the radiator;
The shanks (together with nuts) are disconnected from the shut-off valve and the thermostat valve and wrapped in the plugs on the radiator;
The piping is assembled again, after which it is installed in a pre-selected place;
The installed piping is connected to the pipe connections available on the riser, running horizontally. For these purposes, couplings and locknuts are used.

The thermostat is installed on the radiator either on the radiator itself or on a horizontal section of the inlet pipeline, close to it. If the radiator is closed by any interior items, then for its normal operation it is required to install an ET with an external temperature control sensor in the room.

The procedure for installing a thermostat on heating batteries

Installation of a thermostat on radiators

The thermostat is mounted directly into the hole in the radiator plug, in the direction of the coolant supply to it. At the same time, attention is drawn to the strict horizontal installation. This allows you to maximally compensate for the effect of heating the pipe and valve on its operation. If a single-pipe heating system is installed in your house, then the thermostat connection diagram must provide for the mandatory presence of a bypass. This is the name of the pipe jumper, which provides independent movement of the coolant in the CO from the pipes through which hot water is supplied to the radiator.

If you install thermostats in a private house with more than one floor, then they should be installed from the upper rooms.

Features of installation and configuration of the temperature controller

Features of installing a temperature controller

ET cannot be placed in the zone of ascending warm air flows arising above a working radiator;
The connection diagram of the thermostat provides that it must be raised above the floor level by at least 800 mm;
It must be protected from direct sunlight;
The remote sensor, if any, must be firmly fixed on the wall;
Do not block access to the thermostat with furniture or heat flow curtains that form in the room.

After the end of the heating season, the thermostat should be switched to the maximum flow mode (open), in order to avoid deposits on the valve seat.

vse-heating.com

How to connect a thermostat for heating batteries - installation procedure

Thermoregulatory equipment allows a person to influence the microclimate in the house, setting an acceptable range of day and night air temperatures. In addition to maintaining the temperature balance in a residential area, thermostats for heating allow you to optimize the cost of paying for utility bills. Many residents of apartment buildings in the winter are forced to constantly keep the windows open, trying to escape from the heat-breathing batteries. This situation can be put up with if the heating bills are carried out according to the standards. If heat meters are installed in an apartment or house, then it becomes completely unprofitable for the owners to endure inconvenience, while “heating” the street.

After watching the video, you will learn how to install the heating temperature controller and configure it.

Most of all, the installation of temperature controllers requires rooms in which temperatures fluctuate significantly during the day (kitchens and rooms oriented to the sunny side). It is important to regulate the temperature level in the bedrooms, since full sleep is possible only at 18-19 ° C.

Where are thermostats usually installed?

Optimal location the heater (radiator) itself is used to place the thermostat, provided that it is not covered by curtains, decorative grilles or other interior items. Violation of this rule leads to an inadequate assessment of the temperature level in the room.

This rule can be circumvented by using a thermostatic element with a remote sensor located at a distance of 2 to 8 meters from the valve. In this case, the temperature level control will be carried out at the location of the sensor. Also, temperature controllers for radiators can be installed on a horizontal section of the pipeline near the entry point into the heater.

When the manual thermostat completely shuts off the flow of coolant into the radiator, its circulation in the system will continue through the jumper pipe

If the installation of the equipment is carried out in accordance with the instructions and compliance with all building codes and regulations, then the temperature can be adjusted in the range from 5 ° C to 30 ° C in increments of one degree. In some models, this range may be different, so you should check this information before buying.

The order of installation of the thermostat

To install a thermostat for heating radiators, first turn off the supply riser. Then the water is drained from the heating system and proceed with the installation work, which is performed in the following order:

cut off horizontal pipe connections at a certain distance from the radiator;
disconnect the cut pipeline, as well as the tap, if it was installed earlier, from the radiator;
carry out the disconnection of the shanks together with the nuts from the shut-off valve and the thermostatic valve; they are wrapped in battery plugs;
then piping is assembled and installed at the selected location;
then the installed piping is connected to horizontally located supply pipes coming from the riser.

Heating systems are divided into two types: one-pipe and two-pipe. In a single-pipe heating system, when connecting a thermostat, it is necessary to change the radiator connection scheme by installing a jumper connecting the direct and return connections of the device.

This jumper pipe, otherwise called a bypass, allows the coolant to run when the heating battery is blocked by a thermostatic device. When implementing such a connection scheme, it is convenient to dismantle the device by first closing the valves shown in the figure under numbers 3 and 4.

Wiring diagram for a heating radiator temperature controller in a one-pipe system Wiring diagram for a radiator temperature controller in a two-pipe heating system

Legend for schemes:

supply riser of the heating system;
Radiator;
thermostat (automatic or manual);
bottom valve;
manual or automatic air vent;
jumper;
reverse riser;
plug.

In a two-pipe heating system, regulation of the flow of coolant into the radiator can be carried out using the temperature controller of the radiator of the heating batteries installed on the upper supply.

How to set the temperature controller correctly?

For the correct setting of the thermostat, it is necessary to minimize heat leakage from the room by closing windows and doors. A room thermometer is placed where the temperature should be constant. Then the valve is fully opened by turning the thermostat head to the left until it stops. In this position, the radiator provides the maximum level of heat transfer, so the air in the room will begin to heat up.

After the thermometer readings increase by 5-6°C compared to the initial value, the valve is closed. Why turn the head to the right as far as it will go. At the same time, the air temperature in the room will gradually decrease. When the temperature reaches the desired value, proceed to the slow opening of the valve.

As soon as the sound of water in the thermostat is heard and a sharp heating of the valve body is felt, the rotation of the head is stopped, remembering its position. This completes the thermostat setting.

For the installation of thermostats for heating radiators, it is best to invite professional plumbers

It is better to entrust the choice and installation of temperature controllers to specialists who will connect the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. A properly installed thermostat will ensure a comfortable temperature level in the room and help save heat, which will positively affect the family budget.

Bosch gas heating boiler

Universal heating boilers firewood electricity

After watching the video, you will learn how to install the heating temperature controller and configure it.

Where are thermostats usually installed?

The best place to place the thermostat is the heater itself (radiator), provided that it is not covered by curtains, decorative grilles or other interior items. Violation of this rule leads to an inadequate assessment of the temperature level in the room.

When the manual thermostat completely shuts off the flow of coolant into the radiator, its circulation in the system will continue through the jumper pipe

The order of installation of the thermostat

cut off horizontal pipe connections at a certain distance from the radiator;
disconnect the cut pipeline, as well as the tap, if it was installed earlier, from the radiator;
carry out the disconnection of the shanks together with the nuts from the shut-off valve and the thermostatic valve; they are wrapped in battery plugs;
then piping is assembled and installed at the selected location;
then the installed piping is connected to horizontally located supply pipes coming from the riser.

Connection diagram for a heating radiator thermostat in a one-pipe system

Wiring diagram for a radiator temperature controller in a two-pipe heating system

Legend for schemes:

supply riser of the heating system;
Radiator;
thermostat (automatic or manual);
bottom valve;
manual or automatic air vent;
jumper;
reverse riser;
plug.

How to set the temperature controller correctly?

For the installation of thermostats for heating radiators, it is best to invite professional plumbers

First of all, let's talk about when thermostats are needed for radiators. They are needed in those rooms where you need to reduce the temperature. Most often, these are the upper apartments of high-rise buildings with an upper coolant supply and vertical wiring. By installing the thermostat on the battery, setting the desired temperature, you will be guaranteed to have the set parameter with an error of one degree.

When thermostats won't help If you need to increase the heat transfer of the heater. They can only lower, but not raise. What radiators do thermostats work well with? With everything except cast iron: they have a very large thermal inertia and such a device is practically useless. Now more about the types and features of their installation and operation.

Structure and principle of operation

Structurally, devices for regulating the temperature of batteries consist of:

valve (valve);
thermostatic element.

A thermal valve (also called a thermal valve) is, in fact, an ordinary valve. The same metal body with a bore, seat and cone. The cone is a locking mechanism. Lowering and rising, it changes the amount of flowing coolant. Everything is as usual, only the way this locking mechanism is set in motion is unusual.

The locking cone drives the thermal head (thermostatic element, thermoelement). Its base is a small hermetic and elastic cylinder filled with a thermal agent. The cylinder used in thermostats is called a "bellows". A thermal agent is a gas or liquid, but not any, but special ones: their volume must depend strongly on temperature. There are also bellows with solid thermal agents, but their response time to temperature changes is at least half an hour. So they are rarely used.

Here's how this device works: when heated, the substance expands, stretching the cylinder. He presses on the piston, which moves the shut-off cone of the thermal valve. The cone blocks the coolant flow, the substance in the bellows cools down. As it cools, it shrinks, and the cylinder shrinks in size. The spring-loaded mechanism raises the shut-off cone, the coolant enters the radiator again and the device head heats up. In this way, the temperature in the room can be maintained with an accuracy of one degree.

But different devices give different accuracy. The thing is that the expansion and contraction of the bellows does not occur abruptly, but gradually. Therefore, the coolant is cut off and opens not abruptly, but smoothly. Because of this, the position completely closed or completely open is quite rare. What does it say? That the room will be more comfortable.

The magnitude of the error is characterized by such an indicator as the "gestesis" of the thermal head. The lower this indicator, the faster the device reacts to temperature changes. But high accuracy is not always needed, and prices differ decently.

But when installing the regulator on the radiator, be prepared for the fact that it will never be warmed up evenly and completely. Some part will always be cold. To make sure that everything is normal in it, it is not clogged and not airy, remove the thermal head. The entire surface will become evenly warm after a while.

Type of thermostatic elements

The thermal head for the radiator is the upper, replaceable part of the device. It can be of several types:

manual;
mechanical;
electronic.

Almost all major manufacturers make the valve (housing) compatible with any type of thermocouple. The principle of operation described above is a thermostat equipped with a mechanical head. This equipment is considered basic and there are a lot of modifications in this category. They differ in features and price.

To be able to navigate the prices: European manufacturers sell mechanical thermal heads from 15 euros to 25 euros, there are anti-vandal models, they cost from 40 euros. There are devices with a remote sensor. They are set if the conditions do not allow to regulate the temperature on the radiator (for example, it is installed behind a cabinet, closed in a niche, etc.). Here, the length of the capillary tube, which connects the sensor to the thermostat, is of great importance. Prices in this segment are from 40-50 euros.

It looks like a manual device for adjusting the temperature of radiators in the context

A manual thermostat is the same control valve for a radiator. And the principle of operation is the same: turn the knob, change the amount of passing coolant. The only difference is that if you wish, you can simply remove this thermocouple and install a mechanical or electronic one. The case does not need to be unscrewed or changed. They are universal. Heads for manual adjustment have a low price - from 4 euros.

Electronic thermal heads are the most expensive options, they are also the most massive: there is room for two batteries in the case. They differ in that they have more options. In addition to maintaining a stable temperature throughout the entire time, you can program the temperature by day of the week or by time of day. For example, after 9 am, all household members disperse, and appear only after 6 pm. It turns out that there is no need to spend money on maintaining a high temperature during the daytime. Electronic thermoelements and make it possible on all days, except weekends, to set more than low temperature. Set at least 6-8 ° C, and in the evening you can again heat the air to a comfortable 20 degrees. With these devices, it is possible to save on heating without compromising comfort levels.

Thermal heads are also divided according to the type of temperature agent (substance that is in the bellows). They are:

liquid;
gas.

The gas thermostat is considered less inertial, they say it responds faster to temperature changes. But the difference is not so big as to give preference to a specific species. The main thing is the quality, not the type of temperature agent. Liquid thermostats are no less high quality. Moreover, they are easier to manufacture, therefore they are produced in a wider range.

When choosing a thermocouple, you need to pay attention to the temperature range that the device can support. Usually it is from +6 o C to +26-28 o C. But there may be differences. The wider the range, the higher the price. Dimensions and design, connection method also change.

Thermal valve for a heating radiator: classification

Now let's talk about the bottom of the thermostat - the valve (valve). First of all, you need to know that the industry produces control devices for different systems. And you only need to use devices for your system.

Devices for have at least twice the hydraulic resistance than for single-pipe ones. This is done on purpose, since balancing in this case occurs due to a pressure drop across the valves. Therefore, devices with a small flow area are installed. By putting such a device in, you will surely freeze. Therefore, be careful.

Sometimes modifications for single-pipe systems are positioned as devices for systems with. They have reduced hydraulic resistance, and they can be used in single tubes.

In a one-pipe system, install thermostats with a flow capacity of at least 3 (Kvs=3 and above).

According to the method of pipe connection, radiator temperature controllers are angular or straight (through). There are also axial models. Select in this case depending on the type of connection of the heater. If the pipe fits from the side, it is more convenient to install a straight valve, if from below - one of the corner ones.

Thermal valves also differ in the material from which they are made. Use metals that have good resistance to corrosion. Some of them have an additional protective coating (usually nickel or chrome plating). So, thermostatic valves are made from:

bronze, nickel-plated and chrome-plated;
brass, nickel-plated;
stainless steel.

It is clear that stainless steel is better, but such valves cost a lot, and are rarely found on sale.

Installing a thermostat on a radiator

Thermostats on the radiator are installed mainly on the supply before entering the heater. Each of the valves passes the coolant in one direction. Where the flow should go is shown by an arrow on the body. The coolant should flow exactly there. If connected incorrectly, the device will not work. Another question is that you can put a thermostat, both at the inlet and at the outlet, but observing the direction of flow. And in both cases they work the same way.

Options for connecting and installing control valves. But in order to be able to repair the radiator without stopping the system, you need to install a ball valve before the regulator (click on the picture to enlarge it)

It is worth paying attention to the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the installation height. Most models should be at a height of 40-60 cm from the floor. They are calibrated for temperatures at this level. But not everywhere the feed is top. Often radiators have a bottom connection. Then, in addition to the type of system (one-pipe or two-pipe), select the height of the installation. If such a model is not found, you can set a lower temperature on the thermal head. If you set the recommended one, it will be too hot, because below, in the floor area, the air is cooler, and the model is configured to maintain the temperature measured at the height of the upper edge of the radiator. The second option is to configure the device yourself. The procedure is usually described in the passport, and we will describe the most common sequence of actions below. And the third option is to put a thermostat with a remote sensor on the battery. Then it doesn't matter at what height the thermal head stands. The main thing is the location of the sensor. But these models are much more expensive. If this is critical, it is better to adjust the regulator.

Please note that the thermostatic head must be turned horizontally(look into the room). If it is welded up, then it is constantly in the stream of hot air that comes from the pipe. Therefore, the substance in the bellows is almost always heated, and the radiator is turned off. The result - the room is cold.

For the device to work correctly, you need to install it "head" into the room

a little better situation in the event that the battery is installed in a niche, closed or curtained. The thermoelement is also "hot" but not so much. Here you can go in two ways: either set a high temperature on the regulator, or use a remote sensor. Models with remote thermal controllers are, of course, not cheap, but you can choose the point of control at your discretion.

Another thing to remember: when installing in a one-pipe system, a bypass is required. And unregulated. Then, when the supply to the radiator is closed, the riser will not be blocked, and you will not receive “hello” from your neighbors.

Thermal valves also differ in the type of connection: they are with union nuts, there are with compression ones. Accordingly, they are joined with certain types of pipes. Usually, the specification or product description indicates the type of connection, as well as with which pipes it can be used.

Regulator setting

In order for the device to work correctly and maintain the desired temperature, it is necessary to pre-configure. With the heating in the room, close the doors, install a thermometer where you think it is right to control the temperature. Now let's start setting up:

Open the coolant flow completely. This is done by turning the thermal head all the way to the left.
The temperature will start to rise. When it becomes 5-6 o C higher, we proceed to the next item.
Shut off the coolant flow by turning the thermostat head to the right as far as it will go. The room will gradually become cooler.
When the desired temperature is reached, start gradually opening the valve. As soon as you hear that the coolant is noisy, and the case has become warm to the touch, stop rotating. This will be the position of the thermal head, which will maintain a comfortable temperature for you. Usually there are marks on the cap - numbers - and you can navigate by them.

Adjusting the thermostat is a simple procedure, but it is she who allows you to calibrate it to your requirements. For the most part, the sequence is standard, but sometimes it may differ. Then the entire sequence of actions should be described in the passport for the product. Some firms have even made videos showing how to install and adjust their products.

Results

Temperature controllers for heating batteries can be with three types of heads: manual, mechanical and electronic. Any species can only lower the temperature, it cannot raise it.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to adjust the temperature in each particular room. This can be done by installing a thermostat for a heating radiator. This is a small device that regulates the heat transfer of a heating battery. It can be used with all types of radiators, except for cast iron ones. One important point- the device can lower the initial temperature, but if there is not enough heating power, it cannot increase it.

The design of thermostats for heating radiators

The thermostat for a heating radiator consists of two parts - a valve (thermal valve) and a thermostatic head (thermostatic element, temperature controller). These products are produced for different sizes of pipes and different types heating systems. The thermostatic head is removable, you can put regulators of different types and even different manufacturers on the same valve - the seat is standardized.

The thermostat for a heating radiator consists of two parts - a special valve (valve) and a thermostatic head (regulator)

Both valves and regulators are different, so before you install a thermostat for a heating radiator, you will have to get at least a little familiar with its structure, functions and types.

Thermal valve - structure, purpose, types

The valve in the thermostat is very similar in structure to a conventional valve. There is a seat and a shut-off cone that opens/closes the gap for the flow of coolant. The temperature of the heating radiator is regulated in this way: the amount of coolant passing through the radiator.

Thermostatic valve in section

Different valves are installed on single-pipe and two-pipe wiring. The hydraulic resistance of the valve to a single-pipe system is much lower (at least twice) - this is the only way to balance it. It is impossible to confuse the valves - it will not heat. For systems with natural circulation, valves for one-pipe systems are suitable. When they are installed, the hydraulic resistance, of course, increases, but the system will be able to work.

Each valve has an arrow indicating the movement of the coolant. During installation, it is installed so that the direction of flow coincides with the arrow.

What materials

The valve body is made of corrosion-resistant metals, often additionally coated with a protective layer (nickel or chrome plated). There are valves from:

bronze (with nickel and chrome plating);
brass (coated with a layer of nickel);
of stainless steel.

The bodies are usually brass or bronze with nickel or

It is clear that stainless steel is the best option. It is chemically neutral, does not corrode, does not react with other metals. But the cost of such valves is high, it is difficult to find them. Bronze and brass valves are about the same in terms of service life. What is important in this case is the quality of the alloy, and well-known manufacturers carefully monitor it. Whether or not to trust the unknown is a moot point, but there is one point that is better to track down. There must be an arrow on the body indicating the direction of flow. If it is not there, you have a very cheap product that is better not to buy.

By way of execution

Since radiators are installed different ways, valves are made straight (through) and angular. Choose the type that will be better for your system.

Straight (port) valve and angle

thermostatic heads

There are three types of thermostatic elements for heating thermostats - manual, mechanical and electronic. All of them perform the same functions, but in different ways, provide different levels of comfort, and have different capabilities.

Manual thermostatic heads work like a regular tap - turn the regulator in one direction or another, passing more or less coolant. The cheapest and most reliable, but not the most convenient devices. To change the heat transfer, you must manually turn the valve.

Manual thermal head - the easiest and most reliable option

These devices are quite inexpensive, they can be placed at the inlet and outlet of the heating radiator instead of ball valves. Any of them can be adjusted.

Mechanical

A more complex device that maintains the set temperature in automatic mode. The basis of this type of thermostatic head is a bellows. This is a small elastic cylinder that is filled with a temperature agent. A temperature agent is a gas or liquid that has a large coefficient of expansion - when heated, they greatly increase in volume.

Thermostat device for a heating radiator with a mechanical thermostatic head

The bellows supports the stem, blocking the flow area of the valve. Until the substance in the bellows is heated, the stem is raised. As the temperature rises, the cylinder begins to increase in size (gas or liquid expands), it presses on the rod, which more and more blocks the flow area. Less and less coolant passes through the radiator, it gradually cools down. The substance in the bellows also cools down, due to which the cylinder decreases in size, the rod rises, more coolant passes through the radiator, it starts to warm up a little. Then the cycle repeats.

gas or liquid

With such a device, the room temperature is fairly maintained at exactly +-1°C, but in general the delta depends on how inert the material in the bellows is. It can be filled with some kind of gas or liquid. Gases respond faster to temperature changes, but are more difficult to produce technologically.

Liquid or gas bellows - no big difference

Liquids change volumes a little slower, but they are easier to produce. In general, the difference in the accuracy of maintaining the temperature is about half a degree, which is almost impossible to notice. As a result, most of the presented thermostats for heating radiators are equipped with thermal heads with liquid bellows.

With remote sensor

The mechanical thermostatic head must be installed so that it is directed into the room. This way the temperature is measured more accurately. Since they have a fairly decent size, this method of installation is not always possible. For these cases, you can put a thermostat for a heating radiator with a remote sensor. The temperature sensor is connected to the head with a capillary tube. You can place it at any point where you prefer to measure the air temperature.

With remote sensor

All changes in the heat transfer of the radiator will occur depending on the air temperature in the room. The only disadvantage of this solution is the high cost of such models. But the temperature is maintained more accurately.

Electronic

The size of the electronic thermostat for the heating radiator is even larger. The thermostatic element is even bigger. In addition to the electronic filling, two batteries are also installed in it.

Electronic thermostats for batteries are large

The movement of the stem in the valve in this case is controlled by a microprocessor. These models have a fairly large set of additional features. For example, the ability to set the temperature in the room by the hour. How is it fashionable to use? Doctors have long proven that it is better to sleep in a cool room. Therefore, at night, you can program the temperature lower, and in the morning, when it's time to wake up, it can be set higher. Comfortable.

The disadvantage of these models is their large size, the need to monitor the discharge of batteries (enough for several years of operation) and the high price.

How to install

They put a thermostat for a heating radiator at the inlet or outlet of the heater - there is no difference, they work with equal success in both positions. How to choose a place to install?

According to the recommended installation height. There is such a point in technical specifications. Each device goes through a factory setting - they are calibrated for temperature control at a certain height and usually this is the upper radiator manifold. In this case, the heat regulator is installed at a height of 60-80 cm, it is convenient to manually adjust it if necessary.

Schemes for installing thermostats for radiators

If you have a lower saddle connection (pipes fit only from the bottom), there are three options - look for a device with the ability to install at the bottom, install a model with a remote sensor, or reconfigure the thermal head. The procedure is simple, the description must be in the passport. All you need is to have a thermometer and turn the head in one direction at certain moments, then in the other direction.

Standard installation - on fum-tape or linen winding with packing paste

The installation process itself is standard. The valve is threaded. Appropriate fittings are selected under it or a reciprocal thread is cut on a metal pipe.

One important point that those who want to install a thermostat for a heating radiator in apartment buildings should keep in mind. If you have a single-pipe wiring, they can only be installed if there is a bypass - a pipe section that stands in front of the battery and connects the two pipes to each other.

If you have a similar wiring (the pipes on the right may not be), a bypass is required. Install the thermostat immediately behind the radiator.

Otherwise, you will regulate the entire riser, which your neighbors will definitely not like. For such a violation, a very substantial fine can be issued. Therefore, it is better to put a bypass (if not).

How to adjust (reconfigure)

All thermostats are factory set. But their settings are standard and may not match your desired parameters. If something does not suit you in your work - you want it to be warmer / colder, you can reconfigure the thermostat for the heating radiator. This must be done with the heating on. You will need a thermometer. You hang it at the point where you will control the state of the atmosphere.

Close the doors, put the thermostat head in the leftmost position - fully open. The room temperature will start to rise. When it becomes 5-6 degrees higher than what you want, turn the knob all the way to the right.
The radiator starts to cool down. When the temperature drops to a value that you consider comfortable, start slowly turning the knob to the right and listen. When you hear that the coolant is noisy, and the radiator starts to warm up, stop. Remember what number is on the handle. It will need to be set to achieve the required temperature.

Adjusting the thermostat for the heating battery is not difficult at all. And you can repeat this action several times, changing the settings.

Thermostat for a heating radiator: types, installation

Why do you need a thermostat for a heating radiator, what they are, how and where to put, how to regulate. Features of installation and connection.

How to install a temperature controller on a battery

The old-style heating system does not always provide uniform heating of all rooms. In some it may be too hot, in others - on the contrary, it is cool so that you have to dress. To create a comfortable temperature in each room, you should perform a simple upgrade: install a thermostat on the radiator.

Why do you need a thermostat?

The temperature regulator, installed on radiators, allows you to control the amount of heat entering a particular room by increasing or decreasing the flow of the liquid coolant. With it, you can not only set a comfortable temperature in each room, but also save money if the apartment is equipped with a heat meter.

In apartment buildings, when the temperature in the room is too high, the owners are forced to open the windows, while heating the street. If you have to pay for heat in accordance with the standards, as often happens in Khrushchev houses, then this is not so scary. But in the presence of heat meters, the money of residents literally fly out the window. And another situation: it makes no sense to heat the apartment in full when no one is at home.

The position of owners of autonomous heating systems is more advantageous. They can regulate the heat supply to the apartment at the exit from the boiler. But without the use of thermostats, it will not be possible to ensure a comfortable temperature regime in all rooms.

Why a thermostat?

In addition to the thermostat, it is possible to limit the flow of coolant into the battery using a ball valve or cone valve. But their use is associated with significant inconveniences:

The ball valve is designed for operation in only two modes: open or closed. When working in intermediate positions, it will quickly fail.
It is necessary to regulate the flow of warm water with both devices manually and quite often. At in large numbers The rooms are long and uncomfortable.

Installing thermostats on heating radiators will solve this problem. The thermostat, after installation and adjustment, will automatically maintain the set temperature by regulating the flow of hot water into the battery.

With cast iron radiators it is more difficult. Due to the high thermal inertia of the material (cast iron heats up slowly and cools down just as slowly), it will not be possible to quickly and accurately adjust the temperature.

Device and types of thermostats

According to the principle of operation, thermostats are divided into two large groups:

Devices of direct action, responsive to the temperature of the coolant. Inside such devices there is a bellows filled with liquid, solid or gaseous material, and a disc locking mechanism. The working body of the bellows changes its volume with a temperature drop and moves the rod, increasing or decreasing the supply of coolant to the radiator.

Such devices win in terms of cost, but are already obsolete. In apartments it is recommended to use thermostats of the second type.

Devices with remote sensors and electric drive of the adjustment mechanism. They are more convenient to use, as they are adjusted directly to the desired air temperature in the room. Electronic control systems allow you to set your own heating modes for certain periods of the day, and are programmed according to other parameters.

The thermostat is selected based on the size of the pipe attached to the device and the type of heating:

Valves marked RTD-G are designed for installation in single-pipe systems with natural circulation.
Devices marked RTD-N are used in two-pipe systems. They are also necessary if a pump is installed for forced circulation of the coolant.

More information about all types of devices designed to adjust the temperature of radiators is written in this article. There you can find ways to increase the heat transfer of batteries.

Choice of places for installation of thermostats

The operation of these devices is badly affected by:

Direct sunlight.
Appliances that generate heat during operation.
Difficult air circulation: the thermostat must not be covered with curtains, curtains and decorative grilles.

It is not always possible to install thermostats on all heating radiators in an apartment. Where to put them in the first place in this case:

In private multi-storey buildings - on batteries on the upper tiers. The warm air in the room rises, so the temperature on the second and third floors will be higher than on the first.
In apartments and one-story houses, first of all, thermostats are placed on batteries located closer to the heating boiler.

If access to the device is difficult, it is closed by interior items, then choose a product with a remote temperature sensor.

Installing a thermostat

It is important not only to choose the right model, but also to put it correctly. The heating system must continue to operate when the supply of coolant to the radiator is interrupted. For this:

In a single-pipe system, a special jumper is additionally connected - a bypass. The valve is mounted on the top pipe. To replace or repair the battery or thermostat, ball valves are installed on the upper and lower pipes.
In a two-pipe system, only shut-off valves at the inlet and outlet of the radiator are sufficient.

Work is best done in the warm season, as you will have to drain the water from the heating system. In apartment buildings, mandatory coordination of this event with the management company is required.

The algorithm for further actions is as follows:

Draining the coolant, cut off the pipes suitable for the radiator.
With a single-pipe connection, a bypass is installed.
Install ball valves on the supply pipe and return pipe.
Mount the thermostat.

Due to their low cost and simplicity, bellows thermostats are the most commonly used. They are installed as follows:

The device is guided by the arrow marked on its body. It shows the direction of movement of the coolant. First, its fixed part is mounted, on which the rotating head is then put on.
The valve is attached to the supply pipe with the help of an “American” (coupling with a union nut): it is easier to remove it if necessary.

The valve must be installed horizontally! Otherwise, warm air rising from the pipe will heat the bellows, which will lead to incorrect operation of the device.

Connection to the battery is carried out by means of a threaded connection. Tightness is achieved using sanitary flax or a special sealing tape.
After removing the protective cap, install the bellows head. It is fixed with a nut, which is tightened with a spanner wrench. Another option is snap-on heads. They can be easily put on by turning to the maximum opening position and pushing until you hear a click.

At the final stage, the piping is assembled to the end and the entire system is checked for leaks by filling it with coolant.

Pre-setting is required for thermostats with bellows: models with remote sensors and electronic control do not need to be set.

You can set the thermostat as follows:

Minimize the influence of extraneous factors: turn off all appliances in the room, close doors and windows.
Place a reference thermometer in a convenient location.
Completely unscrew the thermostatic valve by turning its head counterclockwise as far as it will go.
Wait for the temperature in the room to rise 1-2 ˚C above the desired value.
Completely close the valve by turning the crown clockwise.
When the desired room temperature is reached, gradually open the thermostat until it starts to heat up. From the radiator at this moment, the sound of water should be heard. This completes the presetting.

Leading manufacturers of thermostats

The following brands that have proven themselves in this market can be noted:

Danish appliances Danfoss.
Far thermostats manufactured by an Italian company.
Herz bellows thermostats made in Austria.
Devices brands Honeywell, Kermi, Luxor, Prado, Purmo, Sira, with many positive reviews.

Installing thermostats on heating radiators in a private house or apartment will create comfortable conditions in each room and reduce the cost of heating a home.

How to install a thermostat on a heating battery

How to install a thermostat on a heating battery? Choose the type of thermostat, manufacturer, installation location. Install and configure the device.

Features of installation and configuration of thermostats for heating batteries

With the replacement of old cast-iron radiators with modern heating appliances on communications, today at least shut-off valves are placed in front of them - ball valves, with which the batteries can be easily turned off. However, is it worth limiting ourselves to the installation of this fitting, if at an affordable price you can also purchase a thermostat to create comfortable temperature conditions in your home. At the same time, the installation of a thermostat is simple and cheap, no different from installing a ball valve on a coolant supply pipe.

Rules for choosing thermostats

In the vast majority of cases, thermostats are screwed into the battery plug hole on the hot coolant supply line. You should not refuse to install a ball valve immediately after the thermostat, since the first one, not being a shut-off valve, is often only partially able to block the coolant flow into the battery. On the contrary, a ball valve is a pure shut-off valve, the use of which to regulate the flow of hot water is fraught with a loss of tightness of the valve.

Before choosing a thermostat in a store, check which heating system is used in your home. There are the following types:

single-pipe, sequential heating system;
two-pipe, parallel heating system.

For each of the systems there are separate models of these devices, the difference of which lies in the value hydraulic resistance.

Temperature controllers for one-pipe and two-pipe heating systems

The fact is that spruce was chosen for the house one-pipe scheme connecting heating radiators, this means that each battery is included in this circuit in series, and turning off at least one leads to a cessation of hot water circulation. When replacing old heating appliances with modern convectors, as well as in new houses where it is possible to turn off these devices with ball valves, a bypass is installed in front of the fittings - a pipe connecting the inlet and outlet pipelines of the coolant.

This is done so that when the battery is disconnected, the circulation of hot water does not stop, and your neighbors are not left with cold batteries. Accordingly, for such a system, a separate type of thermostats with a small hydraulic resistance is used. Otherwise, if you put control valves with a small internal diameter and, accordingly, high resistance on the supply line, almost all the coolant will go through the bypass, while the heaters will remain cold.

In two pipe systems heaters are installed in parallel, and disconnecting your battery will not affect the operation of the latter in any way. Bypasses past the batteries are not used here, therefore, for effective temperature control, it is necessary to use another type of thermostats with a higher hydraulic resistance.

Rules for the installation of thermostats

In fact, we figured out the installation site, now a few words should be said about the position in which the device is mounted. The rules are as follows:

Any control fittings, be it a simple cone valve or a thermostat, must be installed, taking into account the direction of movement of the coolant flow. On each device you can find an arrow, the direction of which must coincide with the direction of the flow of hot water and, accordingly, it can only be installed in this position.
The position of the thermal head in space is also very important. It must be installed only horizontally, parallel to the floor. Otherwise, if you mount it in a vertical position, for example, like a conventional faucet or valve, the handwheel of which in most cases is directed upwards, then the flow of warm air from the valve body and from the supply pipe will not allow the thermal head to accurately respond to changes in ambient temperature. The valve will always be under-opened and the room temperature will be lower than the set one.

For the same reason, the space where the thermostat is located should not be covered with thick curtains or decorative panels. If you cannot do without it, then be sure to purchase a device with a remote sensor that can be placed at a distance from the valve. In this case, the accuracy of room temperature control will be sufficiently high.

How to set up the thermostat

Setting the thermostat usually does not cause any difficulties for users. To do this, a number of simple steps are performed:

Create conditions to ensure minimal ash losses in the room by tightly closing windows and doors;
Turn the thermostat head to the left as far as it will go, thereby fully opening the valve;
After increasing the temperature in the room by 5-6 degrees, close the valve by turning the head all the way to the right;
After the temperature in the room drops and reaches the most comfortable value for you, start slowly opening the valve by turning the thermostat head to the left until the minimum flow of coolant flows through it.

The presence of a duct can be determined by the appearance of a characteristic noise and the beginning of a rapid warm-up of the valve body. After that, the setting of the heating battery temperature controller is considered complete.

In a word, installing a thermostat is a fairly cheap, simple and reliable way to ensure that a comfortable temperature regime is observed in every room of an apartment, cottage, etc. Naturally, it should be installed in combination with thermal devices with low thermal inertia - modern steel, aluminum and bimetallic heating radiators.

Thermostats for heating radiators: rules for selection and installation

Installing a thermostat on the battery allows you to create comfortable temperature conditions in the room in winter.

Installing a thermostat on a heating battery

The question of how to install a thermostat on a battery is of interest to both people living in apartment buildings and owners of private housing with an autonomous heating system. The temperature control device allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the premises, and in the second case, it also saves energy costs.

It makes sense to put the thermostat on batteries of any type, with the exception of cast iron ones - they are characterized by high thermal inertia, which makes the adjustment ineffective.

Thermostat for heating battery

Adjustment features

The heating of the radiator occurs due to the circulation of the liquid heated by the heating boiler. The heat carrier gives a significant part of the thermal energy to the heating device, which provides heating of the air in the room.

The less hot liquid passes through the battery per unit time, the weaker it will heat up. The principle of quantitative adjustment is the basis for the functioning of the thermostat. Before the invention of the thermostatic valve, a plumbing valve was used for this purpose.

Note! The ball valve is designed to work in only two positions - fully open and fully closed. When using a ball valve as a valve to regulate the flow of coolant, it will quickly fail.

The principle of operation of a modern thermostatic valve is the same as that of a valve - a special device in the housing limits or completely blocks the flow of the coolant. The main difference lies in the principles of control - in the case of using a plumbing valve, the temperature of the batteries has to be adjusted by turning the knob, while the thermostat for a heating radiator works without human intervention, it is enough to install and configure it correctly.

Thermostat design

The thermostat is a valve equipped with a thermal head that controls its operation.

The valves differ in the design of the body, depending on the characteristics of the installation site, the valve is used:

standard straight;
angular horizontal;
angular vertical;
angular, in which the head and nozzles are located along three perpendicular axes (left and right versions).

Note! Valves for a one-pipe heating system (marked with the letter G) are characterized by increased throughput, which is why their body has a larger volume. They are also suitable for two-pipe systems with natural circulation. If the system is equipped with a pump for forced circulation of the coolant, valves marked with the letters N or D are required, they are designed for high pressure.

The corrosion resistant alloy body has a valve seat that can be fully closed by the poppet valve when it is fully lowered. When the height of the plate is changed, the amount of fluid passing through the valve per unit time changes.

Temperature controller device

The poppet is mounted on a stem, which is actuated by a pusher pin, its upper part protrudes from the valve body. As standard, the pin is covered with a cap. It is removed and the selected valve control mechanism is installed.

Important! It is recommended to install valves made of brass, stainless steel, bronze. Silumin is fragile and unreliable. When choosing a product, also pay attention to the mounting dimensions of the nozzles - they must correspond to the parameters of the pipeline.

Choice of control mechanism

The thermostat for radiators must be equipped with a suitable control mechanism:

locking handle;
bellows type thermal head;
servo head;
electronic thermal head.

Locking handle

It turns the thermostat into a regular valve. The handle is usually used when it is necessary to securely close the valve for carrying out repair work or to replace the heating device. It can be considered as a removable auxiliary attribute.

Thermo head with bellows

Looking at the disassembled thermostat, you can see a bellows - an elastic container filled with a liquid or gas with high thermal sensitivity. If the air temperature in the area of the thermal head rises, the bellows expands and presses on the pusher pin, causing the poppet valve to move down. When the bellows is cooled, the process is reversed. The thermostat of this type installed on the radiator is non-volatile, it is enough to set it once, and the heating level of the battery will be maintained automatically with a fairly high accuracy.

Servo head

The valve stem moves up or down a miniature electric motor, which receives the appropriate signals from the electronic control unit. Such a system allows for very precise control of the heating of the coolant. The installation requires cabling for motor power and control signals. The device is suitable for use as part of the "smart home" complex.

Electronic thermal head

The heater, equipped with an electronic thermal head, changes the heating level of the room depending on the set program. For example, work during the day in an economical mode and heat the air to the desired values by the arrival of the owners of the house from work. Such a thermal head with an electronic display works autonomously, batteries provide power.

Installing a thermostat on a heating radiator

Consider how to mount and configure a bellows thermal head - this is the most popular option due to its affordable cost.

Most thermal valves in the upper part have a thread for the M30x15 nut - it is with its help that an automatic mechanical thermal head is installed. Its fixed part is attached to the valve body, and the upper part rotates freely around its axis. Holes are provided in the plastic head to allow air to enter the bellows, causing it to contract or expand.

Installed thermostat

The installation of the thermal valve is carried out at the stage of connecting the heating radiator to the pipeline. It is placed on the supply pipe, fixed with an “American” adapter - such a connection, if necessary, is easy to disassemble. The direction of the coolant flow is indicated on the body of the device - this must be taken into account. Before installation, study the product passport - if the thermal valve does not have the function of completely blocking the flow, a ball valve must be installed on the supply pipe before it.

Note! The thermal head must be located horizontally, otherwise the heated air rising from the radiator will constantly affect the bellows.

The valve is connected to the battery with a free pipe. Then the protective cap is removed from the thermal valve and the bellows thermal head is installed by tightening the corresponding nut with a spanner wrench. If the model provides for snap-in installation, the head must be turned to the “max” position, attached and pressed until it clicks.

Correct position of the thermal head

After installation, adjustment is carried out. The position of the stem, pusher pin and bellows relative to the body of the thermal valve can be changed by rotating the moving part of the head. It has a temperature scale and a mark for reference, which makes it possible to set the required temperature to the nearest degree. A suitable battery mode is determined by practice.

Important! Manufacturers of thermal heads offer various options for presetting - using pins or a special key, immediately after installation, the permissible temperature range of the radiator is set. This avoids the problems associated with overheating of the premises or the complete cooling of the system as a result of the intervention of small children or due to accidental contact with the moving part of the thermal head.

There are different versions of the thermal head.

If the radiator is blocked by thick curtains, furniture or structures, when installing the regulator, you can use a thermal head with a remote sensor-probe. The sensor, connected to the bellows by a capillary tube, is placed up to 2 meters from the battery.

The thermostat for the heating battery can also be equipped with a remote control panel that can be mounted in any convenient place. This model is equipped with two bellows (on the valve and in the control panel) connected by a capillary tube.

Installation of a thermostat is not difficult to do on your own when it comes to an autonomous heating system. in the house with central heating this is possible in a situation where a ball valve is installed on the supply pipe after the bypass. Otherwise, it is required to call specialists and agree on a temporary shutdown of the coolant supply through the riser.

Thermostat for heating batteries: how to install and the principle of operation

Recommendations for installing and configuring a thermostat for a heating battery. What is the thermostat and its principle of operation in the heating system.

Probably a familiar picture to many - on the street frosty winter, and in some apartments of multi-storey buildings the windows are wide open. This only says that the owners in this way are saved from the too hot, suffocating atmosphere created in the premises by heating radiators operating at full capacity. But there is nothing good in such an approach: drafts begin to walk in the apartment, which can cause colds, and thermal energy thrown, literally, into the wind.

All this can be avoided if you modernize your heating system a bit - equip it with a special device that will be sensitive to current temperature indicators in the rooms and make your own adjustments. This device is called a thermostat for a heating radiator. It is affordable, easy to install, easy to use. And with all this, the thermostat creates an optimal microclimate in the room for residents, bringing also the effect of serious savings on energy consumption.

The need for a device to regulate heat transfer by heating radiators

Any heating system should be created on the basis of carefully carried out thermal calculations. This takes into account the mass of various criteria, ranging from the area, height and other features of each particular room, to the specifics climatic conditions region of residence. Naturally, when carrying out such calculations, designers start from the most unfavorable conditions. In other words, even in the coldest decade of the year, heating must fully cope with its tasks, that is, a certain operating margin must be laid.

But such severe frosts, the parameters of which are taken into account, most often stand on the street for no longer than two or three weeks for the entire long winter period. It turns out that in the rest of the time the calculated thermal power heating systems remains unclaimed.

In addition, it is no secret to anyone that in any region a series of severe frosts can be replaced by a fairly long thaw. It is clear that in such conditions the need for incoming thermal energy is sharply reduced.

You can also recall the daily fluctuations in temperature, especially in rooms with windows facing the sunny side. And such differences on fine days can be quite impressive - during the day it becomes untidy hot in the rooms. So you have to open the windows wide open, although such a measure solves the problem only partially and can do more harm than good.

Centralized heat supply systems are simply not able to respond very quickly and flexibly to such changes in air temperature. Not only that, many of the existing systems were designed according to old building standards, with monotonous heating radiators and with the installation of ordinary wooden windows everywhere. The mass installation of new high-quality windows with double-glazed windows by residents also made its own adjustments - heat loss through them is much less, plus, one of the ways of natural air ventilation in the premises has disappeared. When carrying out repairs, the owners often refuse old batteries, installing modern models with increased heat dissipation. But if the temperature is not corrected at the same time, then this is again the path to the consequences mentioned above.

It would seem that it is much easier for the owners of private houses with an autonomous heating system, since they are able to quickly change the thermal power of the boiler itself. This is true, especially if the boiler equipment is equipped with modern system weather-dependent automation. However, this does not completely solve the problem. Different rooms of the house may require different thermal conditions. Plus, the already mentioned daily temperature fluctuations. In addition, in some rooms it is often necessary to temporarily create completely individual conditions, for example, for the storage of certain products or materials. In temporarily uninhabited rooms, a thermal regime is sometimes needed, which, for example, would only ensure the guaranteed safety of the heating system itself. In a word, for all this it is necessary to have some kind of means to quickly and accurately control the temperature directly on the heat exchange device itself - the radiator.

It was for such purposes that the thermostat for the heating radiator was developed.

Video - Thermostat for a heating radiator: installation and configuration

How does the thermostat work and what is the principle of its operation

The principle of quantitative heat regulation

The liquid circulating through the heating circuits is not in vain called a coolant - this wording fully describes its purpose. Taking, due to its pronouncedly high heat capacity, "thermal charge" from the boiler equipment, it transfers it to heating radiators, where it gives it to the premises.

It would be natural to assume that the less coolant passes through the radiator per unit time, the less its total heat transfer will be. It is on this principle - quantitative regulation of the flow of the coolant, that the work of most thermostats for heating radiators is built.

This principle is by no means new - it has always been used, including the installation of control valves in front of the entrance to the heating radiator. To this day, in the houses of the old building, one can already find practically “antique”, but still functioning cast-iron batteries, equipped with manual taps for adjusting and temperature.

They do this in domestic conditions and now - they install one or another locking element on the supply pipe, which regulates the intensity of the coolant passing through the radiator. By the way, many people make the mistake of mounting only a ball valve. By its design, it is already designed to work in only two positions - fully open or closed. The intermediate position leads to rapid wear of the spherical valve and its seat, leading to product failure. If the ball valve is on the radiator (and this happens most often in our time), then this is only for repair and maintenance work associated with a complete shutdown and even dismantling. And it is undesirable to use it for adjustment.

Another thing is the well-known valve-type products, which are designed to regulate the flow of fluid passing through them. The translational movement of the valve plug parallel to the flow, from the position of its tight fit to the seat to a gradual rise above it, changes the internal section of the fluid passage channel. The durability of such shut-off and control devices is much higher. Looking ahead, we can say that it is precisely such a valve circuit that, in fact, is also used in modern temperature controllers.

The manual adjustment scheme is virgin, but extremely inconvenient, since the owners have to constantly intervene in the operation of the radiator, making the necessary adjustments depending on the initial conditions - the current weather, the air temperature in the room and the coolant - in the supply pipe. Of course, it would be much more convenient if the device was able to independently track changes and regulate the flow of the coolant so that the set temperature is maintained in the room.

Such compact devices were invented and put into production in the middle of the last century by specialists from the Danish company DANFOSS. By the way, to this day it remains a leader in the field of industrial and household thermal automation, has production facilities around the world, and two plants successfully operate in Russia.

There are practically no fundamental differences in the structure of most thermostats from various well-known manufacturers. Moreover, most of them are even adapted to the same standards, and are easily interchangeable.

The device of modern thermostats for heating radiators

In fact, any thermostat for a radiator, which is presented in a modern assortment, can be divided into two main nodes. One of them is a valve that regulates the flow of coolant, and a thermal head that controls the operation of this valve.

The valve itself (pos. 1) is a prefabricated structure, made according to a scheme similar to a conventional valve

In the transport or non-working position, the control part of the valve with a protruding stem is closed by a protective cap (pos. 3). In some models, it can also be used to manually control the valve, acting as a flywheel, although many manufacturers do not welcome this approach. And the durability of this cap with regular use is very doubtful.

The main control element is the thermal head (pos. H), which is installed and fixed on the valve instead of the removed cap.

The scheme for pairing nodes may vary, but basically manufacturers adhere to a single standard, that is, thermal heads can be replaced with others. Accordingly, in the store you can purchase both a ready-made kit and just a valve, then pick up the most liked and suitable thermal head for it.

Thermal valve

Let's start with the valve device. The circuit diagram is shown in the figure:

The valve body (item 1) is made of corrosion-resistant alloy - it can be brass, bronze or stainless steel. Non-ferrous alloys are usually coated with chrome or nickel plating. It is not worth buying a cheap product made of silumin alloy - it will not last long.

A threaded part is provided on the inlet body (there are models equipped with a press fitting for the corresponding pipelines). At the outlet - a connection with a fitting (pos. 2), which is usually “packed” into a heating radiator, performed using an “American” union nut, making such a unit detachable. The fitting with the "American" must be included in the valve kit.

Broad arrows show the direction of movement of the coolant. There must be a corresponding icon on the body itself showing the direction of flow, and changing the correct location of the valve is unacceptable.

Inside the body there is a seat of the valve part (pos. 4). The fluid passage is closed or restricted by the poppet valve itself (pos. 5) with a high quality synthetic rubber spool.

The poppet is connected to the stem (pos. 6), which provides translational movement of the valve part. The body has a return spring (key 7) that always guides the valve to the open position when it is not actuated.

Above the axis of the rod is a pusher pin (pos. 8), which in the initial position comes out of the body. It is this pin that will take on the control action from any type of thermal head, transferring it to the stem with a poppet valve that closes or regulates the fluid flow. Of course, the seals are thought out - annular (pos. 9) and stuffing box (pos. 10), which prevent the leakage of the coolant along the axis of the rod. This assembly in non-working condition should be covered with a protective cap (pos. 11).

For those who do not perceive the drawings well - a similar valve, but already in a "living section".

By the principle of their device, almost all valves are the same. However, among them there are specific differences that you should definitely be aware of.

First, the valves differ in their mounting dimensions. So, for example, depending on the diameter of the supply to the heating radiator, it is fashionable to purchase thermal valves with a connecting thread of ½, ¾ and 1 inch.
Secondly, the shape of the valve body may also differ. There are direct models that provide a through flow of the coolant, and angular models that change the flow direction to perpendicular. It is clear that the choice will depend on the location and connection of the supply pipe.

The figure shows several basic versions of a valve model that is approximately the same in design:

A- ordinary straight line;

b- angular vertical;

V– angular horizontal;

G- angular with the placement of nozzles and the valve head in three perpendicular axes. Moreover, such a model can also be left and right execution.

Thirdly, when choosing a valve, you should pay attention to what heating system it is designed to work in. There can be significant differences here.

So, for single-pipe systems, large indicators of hydraulic resistance on control valves are unacceptable. Therefore, the valves usually have a wider passage in cross section, and outwardly they differ in a slightly larger volume. In the accepted classification, they are usually marked with the letter index G, for example, RTR-G. In principle, they are also suitable for two-pipe autonomous systems with natural circulation of the coolant.

And for two-pipe systems with forced circulation, where the pressure of the passing coolant can reach considerable values, other valves are used - marked N or D (various additional combinations are possible).

This is very important question, since with the wrong choice, you can come to extremely incorrect operation of the heating system as a whole.

Finally, fourthly, thermal valves for two-pipe systems can also have a device for presetting its throughput. So, you can pre-set the required value in the allowable range - from 0.04 to 0.73 m³ / h for valves ½ inch, or from 0.10 to 1.04 - for diameters ¾ and 1 inch.

Such a measure allows you to already pre-set the approximate value of the required coolant flow through the radiator - a much smaller load will fall on the thermal head, and it will last longer and will regulate faster and more accurately. The adjustment itself is not difficult and does not require any tool - just unlock the adjusting ring and, turning it in the right direction, set the required value according to the existing risk. The manual supplied with the valve provides recommendations, tables and diagrams, all for the correct determination of the desired preset position. The initial values in this matter will be the thermal power of the radiator to which the thermostatic unit is connected, as well as the temperature difference in the supply and return pipes

After such a preset, when the thermal head is put on, this setting scale will become invisible, difficult to access for unauthorized intervention.

Finally, in thermal valves with the letter D, dynamic pressure equalization is also provided. The special design of the internal channels and nozzles keeps the pressure drop in such a valve at a value of only 0.1 bar. This is very convenient both for thermal engineering calculations and for ensuring the stability of the coolant flow passing through the heating radiator, regardless of the position of the valve.

Thermal heads

So, as we have seen, all thermal valves have a pusher pin protruding from the body, which transmits translational motion to the poppet valve stem. It remains to figure out which specific device will transmit this force, and how it all relates to maintaining the required temperature.

The simplest solution is to install a so-called locking handle. It has exactly the same system of interfacing with the valve body as any other thermal head. By turning the installed handle, you can change the position of the poppet valve, that is, in principle, it makes it possible to manually adjust the temperature.

Of course, it is impossible to call such a handle a thermal head - the device will not react on its own to a change in temperature in the room. This approach is a direct analogy with a conventional plumbing valve placed on a half-dach pipe, as already mentioned above.

However, manufacturers do not position the locking handle as a regulating element of the system. Its purpose is to reliably close the valve in case of need for certain repair and maintenance work. This makes it possible to do without an additional ball valve on the supply pipe - the thermal head is removed, the mentioned handle is installed, the valve is tightly screwed with it - and the radiator can be dismantled without completely shutting down the system and without draining the coolant from it. Having such a “spare part” at home is useful, but using it for effective thermoregulation does not make much sense.

The most popular option is the use of bellows-type thermal heads, which are sensitive to temperature changes in the room and create the same mechanical force on the peeking pin, through it on the stem, and then on the poppet valve itself, completely blocking or narrowing the coolant passage channel.

Since ordinary consumers have to deal with such thermal heads most often, their device will be considered in more detail below.

If the house heating system is fully automated, or in cases where it is necessary to place remote temperature sensors in the premises, a servo head can be used. A miniature electric motor receives a control signal from the control unit and progressively moves the valve stem up or down, providing opening or closing of the channel for the movement of the coolant.

However, such complex control systems are used - infrequently. Usually it is enough to install a thermal head with a bellows principle of operation.

How the bellows thermal head works

The main advantage of this type of thermal heads is that they are able to operate in a fully automatic mode, without requiring any power at all. The principle of their operation is based on one of the basic laws of thermodynamics - the expansion of substances with increasing temperature.

An example of an automatic mechanical thermal head device is shown in the illustration:

Probably, everyone understands that in the lower part of the figure there is a section of a thermal valve, the device of which we “already went through”. But the thermal head itself is attached to it with the help of a union nut M30 × 1.5 (pos. 1). Some manufacturers practice other connecting nodes own development: no key is required to install the head - it is fixed in the adapter with a simple hand pressure. But all the same, the majority of thermal valves have a threaded part, unified precisely for this nut size - M30 × 15.

The device itself consists of two parts - a fixed one, which is attached to the thermal valve, and a movable head rotating about its axis (pos. 2). Its body is usually made of durable plastic. The head is usually provided with holes (round or slotted) to allow ambient air to contact the temperature sensing element.

This sensitive thermocouple or bellows (pos. 3) is, in fact, the main part of the entire device. It is a hermetically sealed cylindrical container filled with a liquid or gaseous substance (agent). The body of the bellows is made in such a way that it has the ability to change in volume - most often this is achieved due to the corrugated walls of the cylinder (pos. 4).

The principle of operation is extremely simple. Depending on changes in temperature in the room, the liquid or gaseous agent either increases in volume or, conversely, contracts. This thermal expansion is transferred to the bellows body, which in turn acts on the piston and rod (pos. 5). The stem is installed strictly coaxially with the pusher pin of the thermal valve, that is, it transfers mechanical force to it to close or open the valve part. Accordingly, when the temperature rises, the channel for the circulation of the coolant narrows, up to complete closure, when it drops, it opens slightly, which achieves the regulation of heat transfer from the heating radiator.

The movable head is connected to the fixed part threaded connection(pos. 6). Thus, by rotating the head, it is possible to progressively change the position of the piston, rod and bellows relative to the body of the thermal valve. This makes it possible to pre-set the thermostat to maintain a certain temperature. To visualize the setting, a scale (pos. 8) is applied on the body of the rotating head, and a pointer (pos. 9) is placed on the fixed part. The numbers or pictograms printed on the scale allow you to set the required temperature with an accuracy of literally up to a degree.

There are other variations in the execution of the thermal head. So, for example, if it is required to take temperature readings not directly near the radiator, but to the side, then a thermal head with an external probe is used. This sensor-probe is connected to the bellows of the thermal head with a thin metal capillary tube about 2 meters long.

Another option is also possible. For example, in cases where access to the radiator is difficult for one reason or another, not only the removal of the sensor, but also the adjustment mechanism is required. For such situations, a kit is offered that includes a head that acts only as a drive to transfer force to the valve fitting. And the control panel with an adjusting handwheel is placed on the wall in a place convenient for access and adjustment. In such devices, there are two bellows - a working one, located in the control panel itself, and a drive bellows connected to it by a capillary tube, which ensures the operation of the valve device on the radiator.

There are also more complex combinations - for example, a drive head connected to a control unit, which, in turn, also has an external temperature sensor.

Video - An animated demonstration of the device and the principle of operation of a thermostat for a heating radiator

Electronic thermal heads

Somewhat apart are electronic thermal heads. They are also adapted for installation on standard thermal valves, however, they differ in larger overall dimensions, since they require power supply to operate, and a battery compartment is provided in the case (usually these are two AA cells).

These thermostatic heads are equipped with a digital display that allows you to accurately set the temperature. Modern models very often provide owners with the ability to program operating modes. For example, it is possible to reduce the air temperature in the room for the period of absence of people in the house or apartment, so that comfortable conditions are provided only by the time they arrive home. You can also lower the temperature at night - in a cool atmosphere, many people sleep much better, but so that in the morning, by the time of rising, an optimal microclimate is provided. Such settings are also carried out on the days of the week, taking into account weekends or holidays. This can bring a very tangible effect of energy savings.

Many electronic thermostatic heads also have preset modes. For example, "holiday", "economical", "frost protection" and others - transfer to such modes is carried out by simply pressing the corresponding buttons.

Electronic thermal heads of some models can fit perfectly into the concept of "smart home", be combined into single system with a common control and management unit. The temperature level in the premises is controlled from one center, and the transmission of control signals is carried out via one or another wireless communication channel.

Certainly, for such electronic systems- very big future. But so far, they have not reached the peak of popularity, partly because of the considerable cost. Most consumers prefer to purchase automatic mechanical thermal heads.

Prices for different types of thermostats for heating radiators

thermostat for heating radiators

How to approach the choice of a thermostat for a heating radiator?

If it is decided to install thermostatic regulators on heating radiators, then when choosing the optimal models, certain evaluation criteria should be followed.

It has already been mentioned that almost all thermal valves are adapted to most of the thermal heads produced. This makes it possible to purchase the required kit separately. If there is limited funds, it is even fashionable to split the purchase into two “runs” - first purchase and install valves, temporarily adjusting them manually, and then supplement them with thermostatic heads.
The valves must match the type of heating system. This has already been mentioned - there are models for two-pipe systems (they, by the way, are the majority in the assortment of stores), and for one-pipe. Ignoring this rule is unacceptable.
It is necessary to evaluate in advance the places of the proposed installation of thermostats, since the shape of the valve body will depend on this - straight, angular, etc.

Important - the thermostat must be installed only on the supply pipe! In this case, the correct position of the thermal head must be horizontal. This rule is introduced so that the heated air rising from the supply pipe does not wash the temperature-sensitive element - the bellows, and does not “disorient” it, otherwise the operation of the device will become extremely incorrect.

Depending on the diameter of the supply pipe, the mounting dimensions of the valve are selected.

When choosing a control head, of course, you should give preference to models with automatic temperature control. Manual valves will not bring the expected comfort in operation.
It makes little sense to install devices with automatic adjustment on cast-iron radiators - too high thermal inertia of such batteries interferes with the correct operation of the thermostatic unit. Here you can limit yourself to a device with manual control.
When choosing the place of installation of the thermostat, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the correct operation of the thermostat can be affected by direct sunlight, the proximity of other heat sources, including large household appliances, drafts, etc. If the entrance of the supply pipe to the radiator is located in the listed "problem" areas, then it would be wiser to purchase a model with an external temperature sensor. A similar approach is practiced in those places where it is impossible to install the thermal head in the correct horizontal position.

Problems can also be created by other specific conditions for placing a radiator or heating convector. For example, according to the interior design, batteries are covered with decorative casings, thick curtains, or a very wide window sill is located on top of them. In such cases, it will also be more rational to use a regulator with a remote sensor, and if it is difficult to access the thermal head itself to make adjustments, use a remote control panel.

Such measures are often resorted to when the lower principle of connecting a radiator or converter involves the proximity of the supply pipe to the floor, where the temperature readings will differ significantly from room temperature. It should be remembered that the optimal height for the location of the temperature sensor is 500 ÷ 800 mm from the floor level.

In principle, the speed and accuracy of the reaction in practical operation is not so noticeable, so it is quite possible to get by with a more affordable thermostat with a liquid bellows. In terms of durability, they are about the same.

If there are fears that unauthorized changes may be made to the thermostat settings, or attempts to violate the integrity of the device are possible (alas, children left without control are quite capable of such “outrages”), then you should consider purchasing a device that has special anti-vandal protection. Calling children "vandals" is, of course, an exaggeration, but still...

The range of variable temperature settings should be evaluated. Usually it lies in the range from +5 to +30 degrees, in increments of 1 degree. Often, the passport indicates the value of hysteresis - the temperature difference at which the device responds with a reaction. It is clear that the smaller it is, the more sensitive the device.

Many models allow the owner-adjuster to narrow the range of temperature changes by installing special stops (usually purchased separately). These additional details limit the sector of rotation of the adjusting head, that is, none of the residents can, through negligence or ignorance, allow a critically high or low temperature level in the room.

Such devices belong to the category of certified products. Therefore, it is worth choosing only models of trusted manufacturers who accompany their products with a factory warranty. Of course, the purchase should be made only in specialized stores, whose staff, at the request of the client, will present documents confirming the originality and certification of the proposed thermostats, make a note in the technical passport about the date and place of sale.

Among the manufacturers of such equipment, in addition to the already mentioned Danish company Danfoss (a significant part of the products of this brand are also produced at Russian enterprises), it is quite possible to trust the brands Oventrop (Germany), Caleffi (Italy), Royal Thermo "(Italy), "Teplokontrol" (Russia), "SALUS Controls". The choice of models is quite wide, as well as the price range, so it is quite possible to choose quality model from the available range. It makes no sense to purchase a product of an unknown company - you can make a lot of problems with it.

Video - Recommendations for choosing a thermostatic head

A brief overview of models of thermostats for heating batteries

Since valves are for the most part a unified part of a thermostat, the review will mainly concern thermal heads:

Model name	Brief description of the model	Approximate price level
"Oventrop Vindo TH M 30x1.5"	Thermostatic head with liquid bellows. There is a zero position - full closing of the valve.	750 rub.
"Oventrop Uni LH M 30x1.5"	Thermostatic head with remote sensor, capillary tube length - 2 m. Connection with the valve - union nut М30×15. The adjustment range is from 7 to 28 degrees. There is a zero position. Possibility of custom limiting of the tuning range. Permissible coolant temperature - up to 120 degrees.	1550 rub.
Caleffi	Model with built-in temperature sensor-bellows. Connection - with a certain series of valves or using a special adapter (may be included in the kit). The adjustment range is from 7 to 28 degrees.	1050 rub.
Royal Thermo RTE 50.030	The liquid filling of the bellows is toluene. Hysteresis - 0.55 degrees. Permissible coolant temperature - up to 100 degrees. Connection with the valve - union nut М30×15. Manufacturer's warranty - 5 years.	830 rub.
Caleffi 472000	A set of a drive head and a control unit connected by a capillary tube 2 meters long. The temperature adjustment range is from +6 to +28 degrees. Hysteresis - 0.6 degrees. Bellows - liquid. Connection: with a separate group of valves - direct, with the rest - through an adapter.	8100 rub.
Danfoss RTS Everis	Liquid bellows. Connection with Danfoss thermal valves - direct fixation, with others - through an adapter. The temperature adjustment range is from +8 to +28 degrees. Hysteresis - 0.5 degrees. Devices for limiting the range and fixing fine tuning. Freeze protection of the system at temperatures less than +8 degrees. Ergonomic design. Warranty - 1 year	1100 rub.
Salus PH60	Thermal head with electronic control. Connection with the valve - union nut М30×15. Possibility of programming - for a week, including with various modes of operation. LCD screen with backlight. Indication of current and set parameters, battery level, device status. Four preset work programs. The temperature adjustment range is from +5 to +40 degrees. Hysteresis - 0.5 degrees. Power - two AA cells, the charge of which should be enough for a year of operation.	3700 rub.

Valves for temperature controllers are presented in a wide variety of sizes, shapes and purposes for a specific system. The price of high-quality valves, for example, from the range of Danfoss, depending on their mounting size and type, ranges from 1200 to 2700 rubles.

You may be interested in information on how

Installing a thermostat on a heating radiator and setting it up

Installing the instrument

Drive step by step instructions installing a thermostatic regulator on a radiator is very difficult, since there can be a great many options in this matter, depending on the type and material of the internal wiring of the circuit. It is better to limit ourselves to a list of important recommendations and illustrations of the strappings made. Someone with plumbing experience installation work- everyone will understand. And if you don’t have such skills, then radiators and thermostats are not the best place for training, and it’s better to practice something simpler to start with.

If you look at the photos of the work performed, then in the vast majority you can see such a crane. Just do not mount it between the thermostat and the radiator - this will already be a gross mistake.

In the event that the thermostat is installed on a radiator connected to a single-pipe separation system, some additional rules must be observed. Firstly, the thermal valve itself must correspond to a one-pipe system - this has already been mentioned. And secondly, and this is the main thing, that a bypass is mounted between the supply and return pipes - a jumper pipe. The bypass diameter, according to the rules, should be one size smaller than the diameter of the liner. Any locking elements in the interval from the riser to the bypass are unacceptable - the same ball valve or thermostat must fall on the area between the bypass and the radiator.

What is a bypass and what role does it play?

In a properly planned heating system, there are no unnecessary details - any, even seemingly insignificant element performs a particular role. A vivid example of this is, which is described in detail in a separate article on our portal.

After the thermal valve is mounted, it is necessary to fill the system with coolant and turn it on for circulation. This step will make it possible to check the tightness of the connections made - there should be no signs of leakage in the connecting nodes or from under the valve stem.
If the valve requires presetting, now is the time to do it. The value to be set on the scale is determined in accordance with the recommendations of the product instruction manual. The installation itself is carried out manually - the ring with the scale is removed from the stopper (it is pulled progressively towards itself) and rotated until the desired division is combined with the mark, after which it stops again.

Now you can install the thermal head. Here, options are possible that will necessarily be specified in the instructions for the device. Some heads are fixed by simply pressing the hand, until it clicks (this is more typical for Danfoss products), others are attached to the valve body with a M30 × 15 union nut. Before fixing, the most convenient position of the regulator is selected - so that the installation scale is visible. After that, the nut can be tightened. At the same time, they do not offer much effort - often the muscle strength of the fingers is enough.

One more note. If two radiators are installed in the room, then there is no point in putting a thermostat on each - they will only interfere with each other in correct operation. If the radiators are equivalent, then the installation location does not matter - the device is placed on any, for reasons of ease of installation or use. But in the case when the radiators differ in power, the thermostat is installed on the one that has a greater heat transfer.

The installation and debugging of thermostats in a private residential building usually begins with the premises of the upper floor (if any), since warm air rises there from below. In one-story houses or apartments, premises with a high dynamics of air temperature changes come to the fore. This, of course, is the kitchen, where the air is very hot from the stove, the rooms facing the south side, as well as those where the most people traditionally visit - this also greatly changes the overall thermal background.

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Setting the thermostat

Thermal heads at the stage of technical control are calibrated accordingly. As a rule, the temperature values corresponding to one or another division of the instrument scale are indicated in its passport. However, it should be understood correctly that calibration is carried out under certain laboratory conditions, on a thermal valve of a particular type, at a strictly set height of the thermal head relative to the floor level, etc. Much, by the way, depends on the type and power of the heating radiator in this matter. Therefore, in real operating conditions, deviations from the temperature calibration indicators are quite possible.

It doesn’t matter - fine tuning for the existing heating system can be done independently. It is performed in several steps:

It is advisable to place an ordinary thermometer in the room - so you can rely on its readings, and not just on your own feelings. It is clear that everything in the room is brought to a “warm” position - windows and doors are closed, drafts are excluded.
The valve opens completely - for this, the head is turned counterclockwise to the leftmost position. With this position, the coolant practically does not encounter obstacles, and its maximum flow through the heating radiator ensures a rapid increase in temperature in the room.
When the air temperature reaches sufficiently high values, in the region of 27 ÷ 30 degrees (it will be hot and it feels), the head turns clockwise to the extreme right position. The valve closes completely.
Naturally, the air temperature in the room begins to gradually decrease. Here it is important to catch the moment when it reaches the most comfortable value according to personal perception (or according to the thermometer). At this point, you need to start turning the head of the device counterclockwise very smoothly. At some point, both by ear and by touch, it will be clearly indicated that the valve has opened slightly, and the coolant current has begun through it. That's it, stop - this is the value that is now on the scale, can be considered optimal and be guided by it in further operation. It probably makes sense to compare the readings of the thermometer and the value on the scale with the tabular data given in the product passport - whether they differ, and how much.

In the course of further operation of the thermostat, it will already be possible to make appropriate adjustments, choosing the optimal operating mode for a particular period.

Adjustment and programming of electronic thermostatic heads is carried out in accordance with the operating instructions attached to them.

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Conclusion and useful supplement to the article for users

What are the benefits of using thermostats on radiators?

As a summary, a few words about the benefits and conveniences that the installation of thermostats will bring:

The installation itself, as we have seen, is simple, and can be carried out both on a newly created and on a heating system that has been in operation for a long time.
The premises maintain an optimal temperature level, the most favorable for residents. At the same time, neither daily fluctuations in temperature, nor its sudden changes in the street, nor the use of household appliances, which are characterized by a large release of heat, affect the microclimate.
Temperature controllers in an autonomous system contribute to the most uniform, rational distribution of the coolant in all rooms. This eliminates the characteristic disadvantage of single-pipe systems, when the temperature in the radiators drops as the distance from the boiler room increases.
Thermostatic regulators are easy to operate and do not require any additional energy consumption. On the contrary, in the autonomous systems of a private house, they lead to significant, up to 20÷25% savings in energy consumption for heating, and as a rule, they pay off in one season.

The only thing that can be “blamed” on the thermostat is that it can only work to lower the temperature. If the conditions are such that the heating power is clearly insufficient, then it is not necessary to expect miracles from the installation of such devices, it will not get better anyway. This means that it is necessary to carefully analyze whether the heating system is properly arranged in principle, whether its parameters correspond to real conditions. Perhaps - the boiler power is insufficient, the general scheme of the circuits is incorrectly selected and needs to be optimized. Sometimes the error lies in the incorrectly calculated parameters of heating radiators for specific rooms.

However, it also happens that the reason is completely different: the owners just need to pay close attention to the quality and effectiveness of thermal insulation of their homes.

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Application - how to calculate the optimal radiator for a room

The calculation of the entire heating system and radiators in particular is always carried out in such a way as to ensure a normal microclimate in the most severe (but not exceeding the extreme limits) conditions. In a word, in a similar way, the necessary operational reserve is laid down in the design parameters, since with full load the entire system during the season will work for a rather limited time.

As we have seen, the thermostat is able to maintain optimal temperature, as if eliminating the imbalance between the current settings of the heating system and the actual conditions in the room. But at the same time, the radiators in the room must be able to cope with the peak, most unfavorable conditions.

The often recommended ratio that 10 square meters of area needs 1 kW of thermal power is quite approximate, not taking into account a number of specific parameters inherent in a particular room. Therefore, we recommend that readers use a more advanced calculation algorithm, which is taken as the basis for compiling the online calculator below.

If questions arise during the calculations, the necessary comments are given below.