Heating system of a private house. Heating schemes for a two-story private house. Single pipe home heating system
The main advantage of a private house is that there is complete independence from various communal benefits. At the same time, they should be, but much more efficient than utilities offer today. Probably the most important thing is that in your home the heating season can start when you wish and end when it suits you. But what matters is how it goes. And below we will look at how to arrange the heating of a private house with our own hands, we will offer videos and diagrams that will help you master all the stages of this important process.
| Types of heating boilers: gas, electric, coal, combined. | |
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Types of heating systems and their installation: air heating, water heating, steam heating, electric heating. |
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Heated floors in a private house. |
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Combined heating. |
A heating system cannot simply be bought in a store and installed at home. Of course, all its components are sold on the market or in a store, but it’s definitely impossible to get by with one set. To create a heating system for a private house with your own hands, first of all, you need to know:
- How will the house be heated?
- What energy carrier should be used in the system?
Designing a heating system is one of the most important stages in the communications of a private house. After that, you need to perform a lot of calculations to determine the required number of heating radiators and pipes. All this should correspond to each other in different ways.
First of all, you must decide which boiler can heat the house.
What are the types of heating boilers?
I want it to be warm in a private house, and that it can be achieved with minimal human intervention. For this reason, a heating boiler should be purchased based on which type of fuel is best suited for its smooth operation.
Boilers can be:
- electrical;
- gas;
- coal;
- combined.
Attention! All modern models of boilers are more or less economical, operate without any noise, are small in size, and are also easy to maintain. However, for everyone, even when it comes to coal-fired boilers, electricity is required to run.
A gas boiler
If there is gas in the house, this is the most inexpensive and easiest way to heat your home. Modern models of gas boilers operate silently, are designed for a specific power, can be double-circuit, which means they are capable of both heating and providing housing with hot water.
electric boilerWith the help of electricity, you can heat a large space in an environmentally friendly and efficient manner. Moreover, the power range of boilers that should be used in private homes can vary from 4 to 300 kW.
The main advantages of such boilers:
- they can heat up to 300 m 2 of dwelling, and are located on two or even three floors;
- they do not require special ventilation and a chimney;
- they do not pollute or emit anything;
- are compact in size.
Some disadvantages:
- Powerful electrical wiring in a three-phase network and a stable voltage are required.
- Heating costs can be quite expensive.
Like all powerful modern boilers, electric ones heat not only the living space, but are also used to heat water.
coal boiler
Solid fuel boilers are quite efficient. Their work is based on the principle of operation of Kolpakov furnaces. It consists in the following: an already warmed-up boiler requires a supply of fuel to maintain a stable coolant temperature (once a day). These devices are characterized by high efficiency close to 100%.
Modern coal-fired boilers are made floor-standing. They are quite compact in size. Their body does not heat up during operation.
Main advantages:
- you can heat not just coal, but also wood, including waste that burns (sawdust, paper, peat);
- high power;
- small sizes;
- inexpensive fuel.
Main disadvantages:
- modern solid fuel models of boilers can be efficient, but their main drawback is dirt during their operation (you need to find a place for storing coal and dispose of burned-out ash);
- they warm up for a rather long time (in order to achieve high power, at least 30 minutes must pass after the fuel flares up);
- a well-designed chimney is important;
- more than the combustion chamber can accommodate, it is impossible to fill in coal, otherwise the fuel may “stuff” (become a monolithic structure that cannot be turned, reached, broken).
Combined boilers
These boilers are not that inefficient, they just have an efficiency of no more than 90%. There can be only one combination - gas and solid fuel.
Such heating units are used when the house is built, and you plan to supply gas, but already next winter. For this reason, the owners prefer to purchase a coal-fired boiler and heat it with solid fuel for the first winter.
The transition from one fuel to another takes place by changing the burners. This is fairly easy and can be done fairly quickly.
Each boiler is part of the heating system, although it will not be very important. His choice, namely characteristics, should be based on what kind of energy carrier will circulate in the system.
What are the types of heating systems
Today, six main types of heating systems can be used in a private house:
- air heating (in this case, hot air acts as an energy carrier);
- water heating (water circulates through pipes, which has been heated to the required temperature);
- electric (housing is heated with electric heating elements);
- steam (steam circulates through pipes);
- combined heating (there may be a variety of options);
- warm floor.
Each of them has its advantages, but there are also some disadvantages.
Water heating in a private house
The most affordable, simple, not requiring special operating conditions is water heating. Its principle of operation is as follows: it is necessary to correctly calculate the number of batteries and decide on the choice of a powerful boiler. It is necessary to pour water into the finished system and at the end of the season it is not necessary to drain it.
It should be noted that the water for the heating system in a private house can only be filtered (while in the central networks it is additionally softened), so it is important to choose batteries more carefully.
This system is the easiest to maintain. Water circulation in it can occur in two ways:
- by gravity;
- using a pump.
Be that as it may, a do-it-yourself water heating system in a private house can be of an exclusively closed type.
Features of forced water circulation
A centrifugal or circulator pump is installed in the water heating system. Its main task is to supply water to the boiler and from it (when heated) once at a certain interval.
Modern heating systems have automated this process. For this reason, human intervention to start the pump and temperature control are absolutely not needed. The forced energy carrier system makes it possible to heat well a private house on several floors.
Natural water circulation
This method of moving water through the system is rarely used today. It is built on the elementary laws of physics, when cold and warm waters move due to different weights. Water can flow by gravity in a system where all pipes are at a slight slope. Natural water circulation is justified in one-story houses.
Any of the above boilers can work in a water heating system.
Installation of a water heating system in a private house
It is necessary to perform accurate calculations of the number of batteries and pipes. All this is done taking into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe room that should be heated. For all boilers, with the exception of electric, you will need a chimney.
The heating system of a private house can be:
- with two pipes (feeding and processing);
- with one pipe (supply of heated water by a boiler).
To begin with, radiators are set in the right place according to the level. How to install and select them, you can see our video.
The next step is piping. Now it is quite troublesome and unprofitable to use metal pipes, and you can easily install polypropylene pipes with your own hands.
Thick-walled polypropylene pipes are used for heating. They are laid in all rooms (so that they can freely move from one to another, you need to make holes in the walls a little larger than the diameter of the pipes). They are connected in the right places using special welding.
Installation of a two-pipe system
A pipe runs from the boiler to the expansion tank. The boiler should be installed on the first floor of the house, and the boiler on the second or simply above the level of the boiler.
After the boiler, hot water is sent to the boiler. Two pipes come out of it: up with chilled water, down with heated water. In each room, pipes are connected to batteries.
Installation of a one-pipe system
To install a heating system in this way, pipes will need less. The system can be exclusively with the top wiring. It is perfect for small private houses with attics. Batteries are connected in series. Therefore, each next one will be a little colder.
The system must have:
- extended tank;
- boiler;
- water purification filters;
- batteries;
- possibly a pump.
Attention! Setting the temperature in a home with such a system is very problematic. One disconnected battery can bring the entire system to a halt.
As soon as you decide on the type of system, circulation scheme and piping, you need to draw on paper a water heating scheme for the house indicating the location of the boiler, batteries, valves, fittings, other additional equipment (hydroaccumulating or expansion tank, circulation pump, safety unit, filter, etc.).
You also need to measure and draw on the diagram the distance between them, the diagram and the diameter of the wiring. At the same time, such schemes should be developed for each room of the house and separately one general scheme for the whole house. Their compilation will not cause you any difficulties, and during installation everything will be simple and clear: what is installed and where, connection methods.
Do-it-yourself installation of water heating of a private house: video, diagrams
Installation of such heating includes the following steps:
- Installation of one or more heating boilers.
- Battery installation.
- Pipe routing.
- Installation of necessary additional equipment.
- Connection of all elements in single system using soldering (welding), wiring and fittings.
Boiler installation
The installation of a heating boiler is always selected based on the maximum simplification of the distribution of pipes around the house and their minimum consumption. Moreover, when installing an electric or gas boiler, it is necessary to take into account the location of the future or existing input of electrical wiring or gas pipelines.
When choosing a place to install a stove with a water circuit or a solid fuel boiler, the determining factor is the possibility of installing a chimney in a certain place in the house.
Of fundamental importance for water heating with natural circulation is the installation height of the boilers. In this case, the lower the "processing" input to the boiler, the better. The best option for a solid fuel boiler, it will be placed on the basement of the house or in the basement. With furnace water heating, it is also necessary that the firebox with the heat exchanger (coil, register) located in it be located as low as possible.Installation of heating radiators
Typically, radiators are located at the entrance to the room or under the windows. Their installation is carried out depending on their size and type on the corresponding mount. The greater the weight of the heating radiator, the more reliable the fastening should be.
Batteries are installed horizontally with slight indents from the floor (60 mm) and from the window sill - 100 mm. It is good if you install taps (steam fittings), an automatic air valve and a regulator on each radiator. Shut-off valves will be needed to disconnect the radiator from the heating system. The air valve automatically bleeds air from the radiator, both when starting the heating system and during its operation.
Piping and installation of additional equipment
As a rule, piping starts from the heating boiler, in accordance with the previously drawn up wiring diagram, and using the necessary fittings (tees, angles, connectors, adapters, etc.). All types of pipes differ in their installation and wiring features.
The wiring can be open, when the heating pipes remain in sight, and hidden, when it is laid in special grooves or niches and, after installation, is sealed with putty or plaster.
Together with the piping, batteries are connected and additional equipment for water heating of the house is installed. In closed heating systems with forced circulation - this is the installation circulation pump, filter, hydroaccumulating tank, safety block (pressure gauge, safety and air valves). In open heating systems with natural circulation, this is an expansion tank installed at the highest point of water heating.
Usually in open systems with forced circulation, the expansion tank is installed in front of the circulation pump and fixed at the maximum height (in the attic or under the ceiling).
air heating
This method of heating is now quite in demand. Air heating implies the presence in each room of special ventilation ducts or heaters through which hot air enters. Such devices are located on the ceiling or walls.
There are three types of air heating:
- central;
- local;
- veils from the air.
local heating
This method of heating a home cannot be attributed to full-fledged heating, but be that as it may, it can be of high quality. To do this, in each room you need to install heat guns or fan heaters and enjoy the warmth. Heat will be in the room only if the doors are closed.
The fan heater is installed in the room, but you can mount it in the wall as part of the central air heating.
Central heating at home
Systems where hot air is supplied to the house centrally can be:
- with full recirculation;
- with direct-flow recirculation;
- with partial recirculation.
As a rule, ventilation ducts are located above the false ceiling, leaving holes through which hot air will enter the room.
All this can be done in the walls, if the space allows you to take a certain part in order to hide the pipes.
Air curtains
Devices that resemble air conditioners should be installed near entrance doors or above them. A jet of warm air comes out of the curtain, blocking the cold air that enters the room when the door is opened. Such a curtain in a private house can be installed only at the entrance to it, provided that the doors are often opened.
Making air heating in a private house with your own hands will be more expensive than water heating. Any boiler (most often gas or electric) can heat the air.
The advantages of such a heating system:
- The circulation of warm air is always carried out after its filtration is completed.
- The house has a constant flow fresh air as the system takes it from the street.
- Possibility of installing a drip humidifier.
Flaws:
- The cost of installation.
- The inability to mount the system in the house.
Do-it-yourself installation of air heating of a private house: video, diagrams
air heating country house, made by hand, implies the presence of such equipment:
- heat generator;
- air outlets;
- decorative grilles;
- fan;
- sleeves for air intake outside the house.
The main stages of installation
Do-it-yourself air equipment goes through several stages:
- installation of heat exchanger and boiler;
- fan installation;
- installation, wiring of air outlets;
- insulation of supply and return channels;
- creating a hole in the wall of the building for air intake and installing the sleeve.
The wiring process always begins with the connection of flexible air outlets to the supply channel. Usually they have round section. Then a return air outlet is made, the diameter of which is larger, but such a channel will have fewer outlets than the supply one.
To prevent condensation in the sleeve, it should be insulated. Then a throttle valve is installed in the pipe, with the help of which the process of regulating the amount of fresh air entering is carried out. When the system is installed, it makes sense to hide all the wires and pipes with drywall boxes, giving the room more aesthetics.
Electric heating
The basis of this heating is the presence of an electric convector in each room. The more modern the device, the more functions it has. For example, it can be a temperature controller. It can be automatic: you yourself set the temperature at which the convector turns off, and when it decreases, it turns on.
Advantages of electric heating:
- speed of installation;
- ease of use;
- the possibility of placing convectors between rooms.
Flaws:
- the presence of a good electrical network;
- high energy costs.
This heating will be justified only as a temporary option and where other fuels are not available.
Steam heating
Its principle of operation is exactly the same as in the water system. The only difference is that steam circulates through the pipes. This type of heating is used in private houses. Its principle of operation and installation is exactly the same as with air circulation.
You can heat the room in this way using special boilers that work together with a device that produces steam. The system must have filters that prepare the water before it goes into a gaseous state.
Such a system for a private house has many more disadvantages than advantages:
- rather expensive installation (given a special boiler and filters);
- operation of the system can be dangerous (if the battery or pipe bursts, a person nearby may get burned).
The advantages include energy savings and the heating rate of the entire heating system.
Do-it-yourself installation of electric heating of a private house: video, diagrams
Electric boilers according to the installation method are divided into wall and floor. An important advantage of such a boiler is that no additional room is required for its installation. Moreover, it is convenient to carry and easy to dismantle.
Installation is done as soon as possible. The device is installed in houses with an area of up to 500 m 2.It should be noted that you can install an electric boiler yourself, and you will not need a large number of approvals (only permission from Energonadzor).
The boiler is attached to the wall with anchor bolts or dowels. The device must hang evenly, in a horizontal or vertical plane (depending on the specific model).
Typically, floor-standing boilers are installed on special stands, and ball valves are used to shut off the water. Important point: when connecting the boiler, the water in heating system needs to be covered.
Having connected the boiler to the heating system, they begin work with the electrical part. You will need installation, a circuit breaker, grounding.
The cross section of the wires is chosen taking full account of the recommendations from the manufacturer and in strict accordance with the power of the device. After connecting the boiler to the power supply, you need to fill the system with water and then check its operation.
System "warm" floor
On the ground floor of a private house, a warm floor is often installed. However, heat is best supplied through ceramic tiles. Therefore, the device of such a system, where parquet, laminate or linoleum is used as a floor covering, is impractical, since they are characterized by low heat conductivity.
The essence in these systems is the same - heat will penetrate into the room immediately, and the installation, as well as the principle of operation, are different.
Water heated floor
Pipes that are connected to a common water heating system are laid on a flat surface on a special substrate that does not allow heat to go down.
Do-it-yourself installation of a water-heated floor: video, diagrams
- Preparatory stage.
Before installing a warm floor from heating, you need to prepare an even and solid base. It consists of steam or waterproofing, insulation and cement-sand screed.
Moreover, the room must be equipped with doors and windows and must have plastered walls, marked places for connecting sewer, heating and water pipelines.
- Floor slab preparation.
If you are installing a warm floor on a reinforced concrete floor slab, then first a layer of hydro or vapor barrier is laid on it. Bitumen-based coating waterproofing or gluing with the use of fiberglass, roofing felt, fiberglass, which are also glued with compounds containing bitumen, are used.
As a vapor barrier, you can use polyethylene tiles, the thickness of which must be at least 0.2 mm, or other similar materials. Both steam and waterproofing must protect the insulation from moisture, which can form as a result of condensation during the interaction of cold ground and a warm floor slab.
Pasting waterproofing or vapor barrier from a film is carried out by laying strips of material with an overlap of 10-15 cm. If a film is used, then the edges of the panels must be fastened with adhesive tape. They are fixed with bituminous compounds. Each type of insulation is brought to vertical surfaces above the insulation and glued to the walls of the house.
- Soil preparation.
Often, individual houses are built without floor slabs, when basements are not suitable. In this case, the preparation is carried out from crushed stone and sand in layers, with a layer height within 10 cm. Moreover, each layer is moistened and rammed.
Then the area of the room where you plan to install the water floor is poured with concrete mix. For reliability, you can lay the reinforcing mesh.
The surface must be horizontal, for which the building level is used. Concrete is poured along lighthouse rails, which, in addition to observing horizontality, perform the function of expansion joints. According to building rules and regulations, horizontal differences of no more than 1 cm are permissible.
- Insulation.
Thermal insulation is an important link in the system of such a floor. It should block heat access from hot water pipes to the lower zone of the underground space - to the basement or ground, and, accordingly, vice versa, direct heat upwards into the living space.
Attention! From the right material to ensure thermal insulation and its thickness depends on how profitable the heating will be.
The calculation of the thickness of such an insulating layer is done on the basis of:
- climate features;
- wall material data;
- groundwater level - if there is no floor slab;
- the volume of the room where the underfloor heating is installed.
The thickness of the insulation layer, along which the floor screed is carried out, over a cold basement or soil base, according to the standards, should be from 50 mm. For floor slabs, it may be less.
In the role of insulation, polystyrene foam is usually used, which is covered with foil on one side. When using it, some inconvenience may arise, since the fixing of pipes must be done with improvised means, for example, clips or clamps.
Today, the market offers a huge number of expanded polystyrene boards, which are laid with best quality and faster. Their design provides reliable fastening among themselves as a result of locking devices. As a result, a solid, solid and even base is created.
This material is covered with a vapor barrier in the form of a polystyrene film and is characterized by high density. Moreover, in the body of the plates there are special channels into which heating pipes are laid.
When installing them, a tape measure or other measuring instruments are not required, since there is a linear marking on their edges. Thus, installation can be carried out much faster. Therefore, the advantages of such plates abound so that you can opt for them.It is important to lay polystyrene boards along the floor area, and not just in places where underfloor heating pipes pass. This will be the key to high strength concrete screed, as well as the reliability of the entire heating system.
Electric floor heating
Differs in simplicity of installation. Finished mats are laid on the surface, and a minimum screed is made on top. True, you can do without it.
There is also a cheaper option. On a special substrate, you need to lay the cable, which is fixed, and on top of the floor covering or screed.
Underfloor heating usually represents only part of the overall heating system.
Do-it-yourself installation of an electric underfloor heating: video, diagrams
We propose to consider the independent installation of an electric floor in a private house (in the same way it is done in an apartment). You need to make sure that the wiring installed in the house is able to cope with the loads from the heating elements, and that you have installed automatic switches of a certain capacity.
- Thermal insulation.
Before installing a warm floor, it is necessary to lay a layer of thermal insulation made of expanded polystyrene foam, 20-50 mm thick. This is important if there is a cold room under the floor. Thermal insulation must be laid on a leveled base and for reliability it would be nice to lay it on a special glue.
- Reinforcement.
Then you need to make a reinforced screed, with a solution thickness of 10-20 mm. You can reinforce with both plastic and galvanized plaster mesh. A foil is laid over the screed to reflect infrared radiation from the heating elements.
- Floor filling.
We proceed to install the electric floor with our own hands and choose the location of the heating cable, taking into account the arrangement of different furniture, making sure that the wires are at a distance of up to 5 cm from the furniture. When laying the heating cable, you need to attach it to bottom base using mounting foam, after which it is poured with a cement-sand screed or a ready-made mixture.
You can see the various technological difficulties that arise during installation by studying the video of the installation of an electric underfloor heating with your own hands, where they will be performed by experienced craftsmen. Along with laying the cable in the thickness of the screed, the sensor of the temperature control system is also laid, a thermostat is installed (in one place), which allows you to adjust the floor temperature at your discretion.Combined heating
Using combined heating in the house, you can get this: in some rooms, more often in the bathroom, in the kitchen, in the corridors, underfloor heating is arranged, and in the bedroom and living room there is water heating. But you can go the other way: the whole house will have water heating, and in several rooms (for example, which were completed later) - electric. The most profitable option is when there is one coolant and one boiler in the system.
After you mount any of the above heating systems, you need to run an energy carrier into it and connect the boiler. To do this, we recommend inviting a specialist from the service center where the boiler was purchased. Its start-up will be normal, and you will not have to wait for any surprises from the heating season, and next time you will not need the services of such a specialist.Everyone who has dealt with the construction of a private house knows how important it is to correctly design, calculate and install a heating system. With regards to natural circulation - the wrong slope, and it will cease to function at the slightest air. Speaking of forced - you need the correct calculation of the parameters of the circulation pump. Today's article is useful to those who are just planning water heating of a private house with their own hands. We will consider the schemes of systems and the nuances of work in detail, trying not to “pour” in scientific terms, but to explain in an understandable language.
Read in the article:
Water heating of a private house: the pros and cons of the system
Like any type of heating, water heating has supporters and opponents. But our business is not to take one of the sides, but to carefully deal with all the parameters. We will analyze the advantages of heating a home with water.
| Advantages | Flaws |
|---|---|
| The heat capacity of water is 4,000 times higher than the same parameter of air - this is a proven physical property | Do-it-yourself heating installation and subsequent operation require more effort than other types of heating |
| Installation and subsequent operation costs are relatively low | Control of the coolant level and periodic revisions of the water heater are required |
| Such heating allows the use of any fuel or electricity as a heater. | If this is the heating of a country house, on winter period when the heater is not in use, the water drains. Otherwise, the pipes will defrost (the problem is solved by replacing the water with antifreeze). And if there is no water, then interaction with air leads to accelerated corrosion of metal pipes inside |
| Pipes are laid under the floor or hidden by a stretch (suspended) ceiling |
Which coolant to use: properties of water and antifreeze
The question of which coolant is better is complicated. On the one hand, water heating in a private house does not require costs. If the house is heated in winter, it is used, then the pipes will last for many years. If there is no air in the system, corrosion will not be able to render the pipes unusable. On the other hand, it takes a long time to warm up, but it also takes longer to cool down. And this is a plus.
Expert opinion
HVAC design engineer (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) LLC "ASP North-West"
Ask a specialist“The choice of coolant depends on the degree of insulation of the house. If the thermal insulation is made according to the rules, it is better to use water - it is cheaper. If the dwelling is not properly insulated, you will have to spend money on expensive antifreeze. In this case, when using water, there will be an overrun of fuel or electricity - you need to heat it constantly.”
What are the requirements for autonomous heating
There are few requirements for autonomous water heating systems. We note the availability of the fuel used, the efficiency in operation and the reliability of the system. Compactness is also not in last place. Heating must perform functions with a high percentage efficiency factor.
Let's translate into simple language. The fuel used to heat the coolant (water) should be cheaper than other types. It is different for each region. Firewood is more available in one village, coal in another, and natural gas in a third. What are the nuances to consider:
- Economy in operation. We return to the insulation of the walls of the house: there are no heat leaks - fuel savings are evident.
- Reliability of the heating system. If the circulation stops, it takes time to start it. The coolant cools down, and heating leads to an overrun of firewood, gas, coal.
- Compactness. When installing water heating, the "golden mean" is calculated. There is too little coolant - the system will not warm the house. In the opposite case - excessive fuel consumption and slow heating.
The nuances inherent in water heating
Water heating of a dwelling implies the mandatory installation of a heater. It can be an electric boiler, or another device that uses liquid or solid fuel. A circulation pump can be used to move the coolant through the system, but it is not always used.
Good to know! Water heating, unlike electric, maintains heat for some time even when the heater is turned off. When compared with infrared heating, the heat transfer fluid wins, especially in relation to houses without the necessary thermal insulation.
What is a water heating system
Before you make heating in a private house, you should calculate the required amount of material. And it is impossible to do this without knowing what elements the system consists of. There are 5 main components:
- boiler;
- pipes;
- radiators;
- circulation pump (not always);
- expansion tank.
Related article:
Advantages and disadvantages, principle of operation, selection criteria, an overview of the best manufacturers and models, how to make a boiler with your own hands - read in our publication.
The role of the boiler in the heating system of a private house
The boiler is the main node of the system. With its help, the coolant is heated. Boilers are solid fuel (wood, coal, pellets or peat), gas or electric. Are considered more economical than others gas boilers However, even with the current level of gasification, “blue fuel” has not reached every corner of vast Russia.
Important! The boiler, regardless of the type of fuel, requires constant attention and periodic revisions. Only in this case, you can be sure that the heating system will not fail at the wrong time.
Before you install a heating boiler in a private house, you need to calculate the power required to heat the entire area of \u200b\u200bresidential premises. For these purposes, we suggest using the handy calculator below.
Calculator for calculating the required boiler power
Each dwelling in the conditions of the domestic climate needs an efficient heating system. For a private house, which, as a rule, is absent, there are quite a few options for its device. Differing from each other in design, types of wiring and coolants, all these systems have their own advantages and disadvantages.
Classification of heating systems of a private house
First of all, heating systems differ in the type of coolant and are:
- water, the most common and practical;
- air, a variation of which is an open fire system (i.e. a classic fireplace);
- electric, the most convenient to use.
In turn, in a private house they are classified according to the type of wiring and are single-pipe, manifold and two-pipe. In addition, for them there is also a classification according to the energy carrier required for the operation of the heating device (gas, solid or liquid fuel, electricity), and by the number of circuits (1 or 2). These systems are also divided by pipe material (copper, steel, polymers).
Water heating of a private house
Water heating in a private house is carried out using a closed circuit filled with hot water circulating through it. In this case, the heating device is the boiler, from which it is necessary to run pipes through the house to each radiator. Water passes through the batteries, gives off heat to the rooms and returns to the boiler. There it heats up again and enters the system. Antifreeze can also be used as a coolant.
Most often, the heating system consists of copper pipes, the most reliable, however, and the most expensive.
Steel is less commonly used, and almost never arrange water heating from polymeric materials that do not tolerate temperature extremes.
In addition to the pipes, the circuits must be equipped with additional elements:
- an expansion tank that collects excess liquid;
- thermostats that control the temperature in front of the radiators;
- a circulation pump that provides forced movement of fluid through pipelines;
- shut-off and safety valves.
Subspecies
This type of system can be:
- single-circuit, providing only air heating;
- double-circuit, which also allows you to get hot water.
According to the principle of fluid movement in pipes, one-pipe, two-pipe and collector systems are distinguished. The first involves a sequential transition of the coolant from one battery to another. Its advantages include the simplicity of wiring, and the disadvantages are low efficiency, the impossibility of regulation and the difficulty of replacing individual elements.
Two-pipe
A two-pipe system is better, as it is more maintainable and provides minimal heat loss.
But the most convenient and efficient way to arrange a water heating circuit will turn out if it is carried out, which provides both a quick replacement of a worn-out element, and simple temperature control, which, however, is also more expensive.
Pros-cons
The main advantage of all water heating systems in a private house is the efficient transfer of heat to all serviced premises. And among the shortcomings can be called:
- complexity and complexity of installation;
- the need for regular maintenance of pipes and the boiler, which can be carried out both on your own and using the services of specialists.
The use of gas boilers
Boilers used in a water system can use different kinds fuel. The most common and convenient to use is gas-powered equipment - although it can only be installed if a central gas supply is connected to the house. In addition, among the disadvantages of gas boilers is the need for their regular monitoring by the relevant utilities.
But such a system has the following advantages over the others:
- Ease of installation and operation.
- High efficiency in the use of energy resources. On average, gas costs are 30-40% lower compared to using liquid fuels or electricity.
- Fast heating of rooms by the heat carrier. Within an hour, the temperature in rooms with a water heating system, in which the heat source is a gas boiler, will noticeably increase.
- Environmental friendliness of gas use.
- Possibility of process automation, including programming of required temperature and hot water heating.
In the absence of gas supply in a private house, it is necessary to use boilers that run on other types of fuel. For example, on wood, pellets or coal. Such a solid fuel boiler will be completely autonomous and not dependent on the supply of electricity or gas.
However, its environmental friendliness is much less compared to other options. And to store the energy carrier, an additional storage device, protected from moisture, will be required.
Heating with liquid fuel
It is correct to install liquid fuel equipment in buildings where the use of both gas and electricity is impossible or simply impractical (for example, the power grid cannot withstand such a powerful boiler). Its advantage can also be called independence from electricity and gas supply. Although the disadvantages of such boilers usually outweigh the advantages:
- fuel requires a special fireproof tank;
- energy source is very expensive and this option turns out to be the most unprofitable;
- large volumes of combustion products are released.
Electric boilers
It is convenient and quite profitable to use electric boilers in water heating systems. It also ensures high automation of the process.
However, the rate of heating of the coolant by most electric boilers is not too high - and if more powerful equipment is installed, an overload of the electrical network may occur.
In addition, electricity is best used as both an energy carrier and a heat carrier, without the intermediary role of water.
Air system
The principle of operation of the air system is to heat the air directly next to the unit (usually a stove, boiler or fireplace). Further, hot air flows are forced (with the help of a ventilation system) or under the influence of gravity to spread throughout the house, providing it with heat. The disadvantages of the forced method are the cost of electricity, the gravitational one - the possibility of violating the air movement pattern due to open doors, drafts.
As a heat generator in a private house, a wood, gas or liquid fuel unit can be installed. The advantages of the system are relatively simple maintenance and maximum energy independence (especially in the case of gravitational heat propagation). At the same time, it also has disadvantages:
- the need to properly design and conduct air ducts at the stage of building construction. It is almost impossible to build them into already built housing;
- obligatory thermal insulation of air channels;
- high installation cost, even if you do the work yourself.
Electric heating
It is possible to heat houses with electricity not only by installing a water system. It will be more correct and profitable to use electricity for direct heating of rooms. There are two device options:
- electric convectors;
- underfloor heating system;
- infrared long-wave heaters.
Heating with electric convectors
Electric convectors are less profitable compared to water heating, which uses gas as an energy carrier. However, compared to other options, their application will be cost-effective.
In addition, such devices are much faster to install than water radiators, and no pipes are required - only wires and an electrical network capable of withstanding the required power.
"Warm floor"
The use of warm floors will allow you not to use home shoes even in the coldest season. Their advantage over convectors is more uniform heating of rooms.
However, “warm floors” cannot be made the main source of heat - but as an additional heating, it is better not to find an option.
Using infrared heaters
Almost the only disadvantages of using infrared radiation to heat a private house are the discomfort caused by a luminous panel and the low accuracy of power control. At the same time, among its advantages there are:
- high heating rate;
- an increase in the temperature not of the air, but of interior items;
- full automation of the equipment operation process.
The heating system assumes that heat losses are minimized, and heat transfer remains maximum. You also need to take into account the amount of materials used, the model of the boiler and the type of batteries when designing the system. To carry out such a project yourself, it is not necessary to have the appropriate training, it is enough to know some rules, following which you can successfully prepare and install heating in a private house with your own hands.
Before buying materials and getting ready to work, first decide what type of heating system you will use, select a suitable boiler and radiators for it. After that, it is necessary to draw up a project and only then proceed to the acquisition of materials and installation.
IMPORTANT! This article discusses the water heating system, which includes a boiler, pipes and radiators. This design is the most simple, reliable and less expensive to operate. The system works like this: water is heated in the boiler, it enters the radiators through pipes, the latter give off the received heat to the room. The cooled liquid through the pipes (return) enters the boiler again, and the process is repeated.
Schemes for installing a heating system in a private house
In practice, two types of systems are used - schemes (or types of piping), namely:
- single-pipe;
- two-pipe.
Each of them has its own advantages, disadvantages and is used in different cases.
Single pipe system
This type of wiring is cheaper and simpler. The system is built in the form of a ring - all batteries are connected in series with each other, and hot water moves from one radiator to another, then enters the boiler again.
As can be seen in the figure, all batteries are connected in series, and the coolant passes through each of them.
This heating scheme is very economical in its design, it is easy to install and design. But it has one significant drawback. It is so weighty that many refuse such wiring and prefer the more expensive and complex - two-pipe. The problem is that as the coolant advances, it will gradually cool down. Until the last battery, the water will flow a little warm. If you increase the boiler power, then the first radiator will heat the air too much. Such an uneven distribution of heat makes it necessary to abandon a simple and cheap one-pipe system.
You can try to get out of a difficult situation by increasing the number of sections of the last radiator, but this is not always effective. This suggests the conclusion that single-pipe wiring can be used when the number of batteries connected in series is no more than three.
Some get out of the situation as follows: they connect a pump to the boiler, thereby forcing the water to move forcibly. The liquid does not have time to cool down and passes through all the radiators, almost without losing temperature. But in this case, you are waiting for some inconvenience:
- the pump costs money, which means that the cost of installing the system is growing;
- electricity consumption increases, since the pump is powered by electricity;
- if the electricity is cut off, there will be no pressure in the system, which means there will be no heat.
Conclusion. A single pipe system is only effective for small houses with 1-2 rooms, where a small number of radiators are used. Despite its simplicity and reliability, it does not justify itself in country houses, where you need to install more than three radiators for the entire living area.
Two-pipe system
Hot water is supplied through one pipeline, and cooled water through another. This ensures even distribution of heat across all batteries.
Such a heating layout in a private house will be much more efficient and better than a single-pipe one. Although it is more expensive to perform and more difficult to install, it allows you to evenly distribute heat across all batteries, which will help create comfortable conditions. Unlike a single-pipe, in this wiring, a pipe with hot water is supplied under each radiator, and the cooled liquid descends through the return line into the boiler. Since the coolant is supplied immediately to all batteries, the latter heat up equally.
This system is not much more complicated than the first, you will have to buy more materials, since you will have to bring pipes to each radiator.
A two-pipe system can work in two ways:
- collector;
- ray.
The beam version of the wiring is older. In this option, the supply pipe is installed at the top of the house, after which the pipes are routed to each battery. Thanks to this design, the circuit got the name - beam.
The first scheme works as follows: in the attic it is necessary to install a collector (a special device consisting of many pipes), which distributes the coolant through the heating pipes. In the same place, you need to install shut-off valves, which will cut off the contours. This design is quite convenient, it facilitates the repair of the entire line and even a separate radiator. Although the circuit is reliable, it has one significant drawback - complex installation with a large number of materials (stop valves, pipes, sensors, control devices). The collector wiring diagram for heating pipes is similar to the radial one, but more complex and efficient.
Unlike a single-pipe system, a two-pipe system does not require additional forced circulation of the coolant. It shows high efficiency even without a pump.
Choosing equipment for heating a private house
In places where there are interruptions in the supply of the main type of fuel, it is recommended to install universal heating boilers.
There is a huge range of boilers on the market. Even hybrid boilers have appeared, capable of operating, for example, both on gas and wood. So, the choice depends purely on your preferences and needs. Of course, boilers with a full set of automation and hybrids will be more expensive. The former will more than pay off with their high efficiency, and the latter with their versatility.
Can't advise specific model because different devices have different power. Choose the device that best suits your needs, however, try to select the boiler so that its operation is not costly. If you use wood, then it is better to choose a model on wood. If gas is connected, then use the gas model.
We draw up a heating project
To conduct heating in a private house with your own hands, you need a project. It must be compiled in the following order:
- First make a sketch of the house.
- Then carry out zoning of the house and determine the degree of comfort of each room.
- Calculate the heat loss for all rooms separately.
- Design the placement of batteries in each room.
- Determine the number of sections required for each radiator.
- Select a heating scheme.
- Calculate the power of the boiler, the required amount of materials (footage of pipes, the number of tees, valves, automation, etc.).
There shouldn't be any problems with the sketch of the house, so let's go straight to the comfort zones.
IMPORTANT! It is extremely difficult to do the entire amount of work on your own, so we recommend that you find out the prices for installing heating in a private house in various companies. So, it will be easier for you to figure out which work can be given to the masters, and which is better to do yourself.
Zoning premises
Proper distribution of heat will not only make you feel comfortable at home, but can also save some money. So, what temperature is better to withstand in different rooms:
Properly plan the thermal zones of your home for a comfortable stay in it.
- The overall comfort temperature should be between 20-24 degrees.
- For the bedroom, it is better to slightly increase the temperature and set it within 22-25 degrees.
- For the bathroom, bathroom, guest room and rooms where you are most of the time, the temperature range will be from 21 to 24 degrees.
- For the dining room, kitchen, study, it is better to reduce the temperature to 18-22 degrees.
- For the hallway, garage and walk-through zone, you can set a limit of 12 degrees.
Calculate heat loss
The calculation can be simplified without taking into account the internal heat transfer between rooms. When calculating, it is important to determine the number of external walls and corners, it is there that the greatest losses occur. The amount of loss can be calculated by taking the data from the table below and multiplying it by the thickness of the wall.
By thermal resistance
| Wall material and thickness | Rt |
|---|---|
| Brick wall 3 bricks thick (79 cm) | 0,592 |
| Brick wall 2.5 bricks (67 cm) thick | 0,502 |
| Brick wall 2 bricks thick (54 cm) | 0,405 |
| Brick wall 1 brick thick (25 cm) | 0,187 |
| Log cabin diameter 25 cm | 0,55 |
| Log cabin diameter 20 cm | 0,44 |
| Log house from a bar 20 cm thick | 0,806 |
| Log cabin from a bar 10 cm thick | 0,353 |
| Frame wall (board + mineral wool + board) 20 cm | 0,703 |
| Foam concrete wall 20 cm | 0,476 |
| Foam concrete wall 30 cm | 0,709 |
| Plaster 2-3 cm | 0,035 |
| Ceiling (attic) ceiling | 1,43 |
| wooden floors | 1,85 |
| Double wooden doors | 0,21 |
According to the given heat losses
Specific heat loss of building fencing elements (per 1 m 2 along the inner contour of the walls) depending on the average temperature of the coldest week of the year
| Fencing characteristics | Outside temperature, °C | Heat losses, W / m 2 |
|---|---|---|
| Window with double glazing | -24 | 117 |
| -26 | 126 | |
| -28 | 131 | |
| -30 | 135 | |
| Solid wood doors (double) | -24 | 204 |
| -26 | 219 | |
| -28 | 228 | |
| -30 | 234 | |
| Attic floor | -24 | 30 |
| -26 | 33 | |
| -28 | 34 | |
| -30 | 35 | |
| Wooden floors above basement | -24 | 22 |
| -26 | 25 | |
| -28 | 26 | |
| -30 | 26 |
IMPORTANT! A large number of heat escapes through the windows.
Batteries
The choice of radiators is very important. Not only the durability of the heating system depends on this, but also the degrees of heat in your home. There are only 4 types of batteries:
- cast iron;
- steel;
- aluminum;
- bimetallic.
Bimetal radiators consist of strong steel pipes and an aluminum jacket that gives off heat well.
Best of all they give off heat, they last the longest - cast-iron radiators. But they are difficult to install due to their significant weight. Bimetallic batteries are an excellent choice.. They are durable, give off heat well, but are more expensive than other options. It is better not to install aluminum and steel, as aluminum is short-lived, and steel will not be able to cope with the heating of rooms in severe frost.
To correctly calculate the number of radiator sections per room, you need to multiply the number of heat losses by 1.2 (the safety factor) and divide by the thermal power of the battery section. The value must be rounded up.
On a note! Alternative option. In order not to complicate yourself with calculations, you can calculate the number of sections like this: for every 2 sq. m of a room (with a ceiling height of up to 3 m) one section is needed. If the heat loss is high, then take a couple of sections in reserve.
The principle of operation of the "screen" for the battery.
Batteries are best placed under a window. Such a move will somewhat reduce heat loss through the window opening. But in this case, the battery will give off some of its heat to the wall, which you do not need at all. That's why we recommend to mount a "screen" on the wall where the radiator is installed. It is usually made of foil and serves as a heat reflector. The warm stream is reflected and returned to the room, while heating the air, and not the wall.
After all the calculations, you need to choose the heating scheme, which was already mentioned earlier. Our choice is unchanged - we recommend a two-pipe.
Boiler power calculation
It is worth noting that it is better to take the power parameter with a small margin, so you protect yourself in severe frost. The heating device will calmly cope with an emergency.
To calculate the power, you need to add up the power of all radiators (and possibly other devices that will be powered by the boiler), multiply this value by 1.4 (this is a coefficient that takes into account heat loss for ventilation). The resulting figure must be divided by the power utilization factor and the efficiency of the boiler. Then choose the boiler from the table that best matches the resulting value.
Latest blanks
When all the calculations are done, you need to measure all the distances in order to buy the right amount of pipes, tees. Take everything with a small margin. Buy a boiler, coordinate everything Required documents, buy radiators and other consumables.
We carry out heating installation in a private house
One of the options for a properly planned boiler room.
The heating system is installed in several stages. First of all, you need to equip the room for the boiler. It must be well ventilated, treated with refractory materials.. The boiler itself is not mounted close to the wall, but with a slight indent. You also need to retreat from the ceiling, floor and other walls. Hang the appliance so that it is easy to reach.
After installing the boiler, proceed to connect the pump (if needed) or install the collector (if provided). Also fix all regulating and measuring instruments near the boiler. Only after the above actions it is worth moving on to the arrangement of main pipelines. Here you can not do without a perforator, since for laying the line you will have to punch holes in the walls.
Important! The slope must be at least 5 mm per meter - it is very important to withstand the slope. The absence of such a negative impact on the operation of the entire system as a whole, so take this issue responsibly.
Schematic representation of the correct slope in the heating system. Water flows by gravity into the radiators and is sent back to the boiler by gravity.
Radiators are installed last. Before installation, you need to mark the wall, then drill holes where the brackets are installed. When marking, observe the following distances: from the floor to the underside of the battery - at least 10 cm, from the wall to the back wall - at least 2 cm, and from the windowsill - at least 10 cm. It is advisable to install valves on all inputs and outputs of the batteries, which will simplify replacement or repair.
Go shopping
- What you need to install a working water heating system?
Here is the complete list:
- Boiler. It should provide the minimum operating costs and, if possible, require the minimum attention of the owner;
- Boiler piping- safety group (air vent, pressure gauge and safety valve), circulation pump and expansion tank, which compensates for the increase in volume during heating;
I deliberately excluded from consideration open gravity systems, in which the functions of the entire strapping are performed by an open expansion tank. They are extremely simple structurally, but differ from closed systems with forced circulation by long heating, a large temperature spread between heating devices and the formation of scale in the boiler heat exchanger.
- Pipes— bottling, connections to radiators and (optionally) heating risers;
- Actually heating appliances and their piping- valves for shutdown or chokes for separate adjustment.
Boiler
- How to choose a boiler for water heating?
If you have gas in your house or on the site, great. You won't find a cheaper source of heat: obtained by burning natural gas thermal energy costs only 50-70 kopecks per kilowatt-hour.
The most economical type of gas boilers - with electric ignition.
What is the cost savings?
- The absence of a pilot burner saves up to 25% of the gas that burns when the boiler is idle, when the coolant is heated to a sufficiently high temperature;
- Another 10 - 12% savings is provided by the utilization of the heat of condensation of water vapor, which in traditional boilers leaves the house along with the rest of the combustion products.
In the absence of a gas pipeline near the house, the remaining heat sources are arranged in terms of efficiency in this order:
A few nuances:
- The power source of a gas boiler can be not only main gas, but also cylinders or its own gas tank. But in this case, the cost of a kilowatt-hour will increase to 3 and 2.3 rubles, respectively;
- I gave the average prices at the time of writing the article (beginning of 2017), relevant for the central regions of the country at a small distance from the capital. However, regional energy prices and local utility rates can make their own adjustments.
For example, in Moscow, a kilowatt-hour of electricity costs at a one-rate tariff not 4, but 5 rubles. In Sevastopol, where I live, pellets are twice as expensive as in the Moscow region - 15,000 rubles per ton against 7,000; - To kindle a solid fuel boiler on coal, firewood is needed, which will further increase operating costs and time;
- Gas, diesel and electric boilers can operate without maintenance as long as electricity, gas or liquid fuel is supplied. A pellet boiler with a bunker and a pellet feeder is capable of autonomous operation for a week. A solid fuel boiler will have to be melted and cleaned of ash several times a day;
Some types of boilers are designed for longer battery life. For example, pyrolysis (smoldering firewood with limited air access, followed by afterburning of combustion products in a separate chamber) increases autonomy up to 10-12 hours. Upper combustion boilers with a telescopic air duct are completely capable of working on one tab for up to a day.
- Replacing diesel fuel with mining will reduce operating costs by 5-6 times. However, mining boilers are not very popular, since only car service workers have a constant supply channel for used engine oil.
Another source of cheap heat is a mining boiler.
For a private house with high-quality insulation of walls and floors, located in the central regions of the country, the boiler power is selected at the rate of 100 watts per square meter.
For houses in the northern or southern regions, buildings with low-quality or, conversely, very effective insulation and with high ceiling heights, it is better to use the formula Q \u003d V * Dt * k / 860.
The variables in this formula are (from left to right):
- The heat demand of the premises in kilowatts;
- Its volume in cubic meters;
- The temperature difference between the street and the house (it is usually taken equal to the difference between sanitary standard-18 - 22 degrees - and the temperature of the coldest five-day period in your locality);
- warming factor. It can be selected according to the table:
For example, for a house measuring 10x10x6 meters with brick walls 50 cm thick and double-glazed windows, located in Surgut (the temperature of the coldest five days of winter is -43), the heat demand will be (10 * 10 * 6) * (22 - -43) *1.9/860=86 kilowatts.
- Is there an inexpensive alternative to solid fuel boilers in the absence of gas?
Heat pumps run on electricity, but they do not use it to directly heat the air in the house, but to pump heat from a low-grade source - soil, water or air.
Since electricity is consumed only by the compressor, for every kilowatt-hour of electricity, the owner receives from three to six kilowatt-hours of heat, which reduces heating costs to comparable with solid fuel heating and even gas.
Many potential buyers are put off by the high cost of heat pumps and the costly installation of a heating system. Suffice it to say that the installation of a geothermal pump requires drilling wells several tens of meters deep or laying a horizontal collector in a pit, an area three times the size of the house.
However, in warm regions, an air-to-air heating scheme can be implemented: a heat pump takes energy from the air outside the house and heats it without the mediation of a heat carrier, by simply blowing an internal heat exchanger.
Doesn't it remind you of anything?
That's right, this is how any household air conditioner works in heating mode.
A household split system is a special case of a heat pump.
I use air conditioners as the main source of heat for my home.
Here is a brief account of their operation:
- Four inverters constantly working in winter, together with the installation, cost me about 110 thousand rubles;
- The heated area of the house is 154 m2. It maintains a temperature of 20-22 degrees;
- Air conditioners continue to work for heating even with rare frosts in Sevastopol ( minimum temperature, which the heating system was tested - -21 degrees);
- Electricity consumption for heating winter months is approximately 1500 kWh. How much this is in money, the reader can calculate at local rates.
The photo shows the external blocks of air conditioners that heat the bedroom and the nursery on the ground floor.
Boiler piping
- How to choose a piping for the boiler?
I have already listed its main elements. There are subtleties, however, here.
When choosing a circulation pump, look first of all at its performance. A minimum pressure of 2 meters (0.2 kgf / cm2) is enough to make the heating system of an apartment building work.
The pump performance is selected according to the formula Q=0.86R/Dt.
In it:
- Q is the desired value in cubic meters per hour;
- R is the power of the boiler or the circuit served by the pump with forced circulation of the coolant;
- Dt is the temperature difference between the supply and return (usually it is approximately equal to 20 degrees).
So, for our freezing house in Surgut, we need a pump with a capacity of 0.86*86/20=3.7 m3/h.
The safety valve must be set to the maximum pressure allowed for the heating system (usually 2.5 kgf / cm2.
The volume of the membrane expansion tank is usually taken with a small margin equal to 1/10 of the volume of the coolant in the circuit. To find out the last parameter with maximum accuracy, it is enough to fill the circuit with water and drain it into a container of a known volume.
In a balanced heating system with aluminum or bimetal radiators, the coolant volume is approximately 15 liters per kilowatt of boiler output.
The standard charging pressure of the expansion tank is 1.5 kgf/cm2. Approximately the same operating pressure must be maintained in the heating system during operation. It can be increased using a tap connecting the heating circuit to the cold water system, or by simply pumping air into the expansion tank through the spool.
Pipes
- What pipes to use for heating distribution in the house?
In my opinion, best material For autonomous system water heating - polypropylene with aluminum foil reinforcement.
Why exactly him?
- These pipes are among the cheapest. So, with an outer diameter of 20 mm, a running meter of a pipe costs only 70 rubles. Compare this cost with corrugated stainless steel (from 290 rubles per meter) and copper (from 400 rubles);
- Their connections are maintenance-free and are as durable as a solid pipe. The fitting can be hidden in a strobe or screed;
- The strength and heat resistance of polypropylene is quite sufficient for the modest operational parameters of an autonomous system (up to + 75 ° C at a pressure of not more than 2.5 atmospheres).
Why do I recommend reinforced pipes and aluminum in particular?
It's not about resistance to hydrostatic pressure - it is already redundant. Keywords- elongation on heating. According to this parameter, polypropylene without reinforcement is ahead of the rest: a meter pipe heated by 50 degrees becomes 6.5 mm longer. Fiberglass reinforcement reduces elongation to 3.1 mm and aluminum to 1.5 mm/meter.
For comparison, a steel pipe under the same conditions will lengthen by 0.5 mm.
When installing long straight sections of filling, the pipes are opened by compensators - ring or U-shaped bends, which avoid pipeline deformation.
- What should be the diameter of the pipes?
The inner diameter is selected depending on the thermal load on the corresponding section of the circuit. For bottling, the heat load is equal to the power of the boiler, for connections - the power of the heater, for the riser - the total heat transfer of all devices connected to it.
The values of the inner diameter are selected from another table.
The diameter can be reduced by increasing the speed of the coolant (read - pump performance). However, a trap awaits us here: following the increase in flow rate, hydraulic noise will appear - first on the throttling valves, and then on all fitting connections. Therefore, it is better to select the speed from a range of 0.4 - 0.6 m / s (blue columns in the table).
In a natural circulation system, the filling diameter is increased by at least one step. The instruction is related to the minimum hydraulic head that ensures the movement of the coolant: with an increase in diameter, the hydraulic resistance of the pipeline decreases.
Heating appliances
- What batteries are better to buy?
Our choice is aluminum sectional radiators. Cheap and cheerful: maximum heat transfer (with a standard battery size - about 200 watts per section) and a minimum price (from 300 rubles).
- How to choose the number of sections?
The power of the heater for a separate room is calculated according to the same scheme as the heat demand of the house. To recalculate the power in the number of sections, it is enough to divide it by the heat flow from one section. It is always indicated by the manufacturer in the technical documentation for the device.
There is one subtlety here. As a rule, the manufacturer indicates the heat flow for a well-defined temperature difference between the coolant and the air in the room - 70 degrees (90C / 20C).
As the coolant cools or the air heats up, the power of the section will drop in proportion to the temperature delta: say, at 60C in the battery and 25C in the room, the section will give half the nominal power.
Tying heating devices
- What fittings are needed to disconnect and adjust the batteries?
If you plan to only turn off the radiators (with excess heat or for repairs), install ball valves on both battery connections. They are durable, fail-safe and always tight when closed.
For throttling (patency control), it is customary to use needle throttles, or valves for radiators. Inside, these are typical screw valves with a metal valve.
If you want the patency of the liners to be regulated automatically, your choice is valves with thermal heads. After a rough adjustment, they will change their throughput depending on the air temperature in the room.
Wiring
- How to distribute heating around the house?
The simplest and most fail-safe scheme is a single-pipe Leningrad, a filling ring around the perimeter of the house with heating devices connected in parallel to it. Its main drawback is the large temperature spread between the first and last radiators.
If the house has several heated floors, a two-pipe heating system is usually installed. It can be dead-end (when the coolant turns 180 degrees during the flow from the supply to the return) and passing (the direction of movement of the coolant is maintained).
The dead-end circuit needs mandatory balancing - limiting the patency of radiators closest to the boiler with chokes. Without balancing, the bulk of the coolant circulates through these radiators, and distant devices practically do not heat. In my memory, this at least once led to a serious accident - defrosting of the circuit in extreme cold.
A passing circuit (Tichelman's loop) forms several parallel circuits of the same length. In it, the temperature of the radiators is always approximately the same without balancing.
The dead-end two-pipe scheme is used in cases where any obstacle (high opening, load-bearing wall, etc.) does not allow the Tichelman loop to be looped.
Installation
- How to solder polypropylene pipes yourself?
For this you will need:
- Shaver (cleaning) to remove reinforcement from the soldering area;
The shaver simultaneously removes the outer chamfer on the pipe, simplifying the installation of the fitting.
- Scissors - pipe cutter;
- Soldering iron with nozzles of the appropriate diameter and a working temperature of 260 degrees.
The connection is made as follows:
- The shaver is put on the pipe and makes several turns, removing the aluminum foil;
If it is left, the foil in contact with water will gradually break down. This will lead to stratification of the pipe and a drop in the strength of the connection.
- The pipe is inserted into the socket of the nozzle heated to the operating temperature. At the same time, a fitting is put on the second side of the nozzle;
- The melted parts are combined with a translational (without rotation) movement and are held motionless for several seconds. After the melted plastic seizes, you can proceed to the installation of the next connection.
- Where to set the security group?
at the outlet of the boiler. It is there that the pressure begins to increase with insufficient patency of the filling or low circulation speed.
- Where is the expansion tank located??
At any point in the circuit, but not closer than two filling diameters from the pump when installed before it and not closer than ten filling diameters when installed after the pump. Otherwise, the turbulences that occur during the rotation of the impeller will drastically reduce the resource of the tank membrane.
- Can a gravity heating system be converted to forced circulation?
Quite: the pump can be placed in both closed and open circuits.
Usually, heating installation with the ability to work with both natural and forced circulation is performed as follows:
- The filling diameter and configuration (slope, accelerating manifold, difference in height between the boiler and heaters) are made typical for a gravity system;
- In front of the boiler, two outlets are welded parallel to the filling, between which a pump is connected;
- A ball check valve is placed between the tie-ins.
When the pump is running, the valve activates and closes the bypass. The coolant circulates at high speed forcibly. As soon as the pump turns off due to power outages, the system automatically switches to natural circulation mode: the valve opens, and water flows freely through the bottling.
Instead of a check valve, a regular valve or ball valve is sometimes installed. In this case, the system has to be transferred to the natural circulation mode with your own hands.
Conclusion
Of course, in a small volume of material it is difficult to answer all the questions related to autonomous heating questions. You can find more information in the video in this article. Feel free to leave your comments on the portal. Good luck, comrades!